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The installation procedure is covered in a well illustrated instruction sheet.
Installation has three basic steps: Preparing the drive in the box, screwing
the box together, and installing the box in a case.
Cables must be installed before the box is screwed together.
Once the box has been prepared by arranging the interior rubber lining appropriately,
the drive is placed in the box, PCB up. The drive fits snugly; any empty space
around the drive is filled by the rubber lining.
The power and interface cables must be installed before the drive is installed.
Two six inch cable extensions are included (one that converts the Molex connector
to a SATA connector) so that the box can be separated from the power supply
after it's installed. Unfortunately, no IDE or SATA adapters are included, but
these are less crucial since they can be disconnected from the other end.
Once the hard drive is in place, a thermal pad, or "Gel Sheet", is
placed over the PCB to ensure a proper connection between the drive and the
Heatlane. Two thermal pads are included, but most of the time only one is necessary
to completely cover the internal electronics.
The thermal pads are shipped with a protective layer of plastic that must
be peeled off before use.
The next step is to position the lid and the Heatlane over the drive, and screw
the whole thing together using the aluminum frame.
The Heatlane in position before the aluminum frame is screwed on.
The "elbow" of the Heatlane protrudes beyond the edge of the Silent
Box, immediately above the wires. This makes screwing the frame together a bit
awkward because of the extra height that the cables add to the end dimension
of the case. The problem is worse when using SATA cables, which are thicker
than standard IDE cables. This configuration also adds to the total height of
the box, making it more difficult to slide it into place when it is installed
in a 5.25" bay.
There's not enough clearance to allow the lid to lie flat when a SATA
cable is used.
The aluminum frame holds the box together and acts as a heatsink for the
Because the body of the Silent Box is rubber, Scythe advises using caution
when tightening the numerous screws so that they do not strip the rubber. We
found that the best technique was to put the lid under pressure and then tighten
the screws while they were not under tension. Two screws on each end of the
box are also used to ensure that the vertical screws do not pop out under tension.
Unfortunately, the additional space required for the cables made it difficult
to align the screw holes on this end of the box.
The screws must be installed gently to avoid stripping the rubber.
Once the box is screwed together, the whole thing is meant to be screwed into a 5.25"
optical bay. The size and material of the box make it quite a tight fit, but
we managed to ease it into place without too much trouble.
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