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Removing the fan is a two step process.
- The fan clip is unscrewed from the heatsink with the fan attached
- The fan clip is snapped off of the fan
Replacing the fan is as simple as reversing these two steps. It's easiest to
show the process via photographs:
The fan clip is unscrewed from the heatsink. There are two screws at each
The four corners of the fan clip must be unhooked from the edge of the
fan, after which the fan clip can simply be pulled off.
The fan clip without a fan installed.
The plastic fan clip is a little fragile, and will probably not stand up to
repeated fan swaps. Hopefully, though, only one fan swap (if any) will ever
be made. So long as care is taken while installing the fan, it's hard to consider
this a serious fault.
The screw installation of the fan is simpler and easier on
the fingers than the alternate method using wire clips but also a little more
time consuming. It is straightforward enough that LS Cable's claim that the
"cooling fan may be replaced for tuning purposes" is quite acceptable.
Any person handy with a screwdriver should be able to replace the fan.
The fan itself is a
low noise, ball bearing model from DCC Co. in Korea. The "M" in
the model number marks it as a medium speed model, which is fairly standard
for a heatsink. It's rated for 2,400 RPM and 32 dBA, which contradicts LS Cable's
much more optimistic claim of 2,100 RPM and 20-22 dB. There is a similar discrepancy
with the airflow specification: DCC rates it at 42 CFM, while LS Cable lists
it at 32 CFM. DCC rates the start voltage at a relatively high 8V, but we found
that our sample started reliably at 5V.
A medium speed model from BCC's low noise line of fans is used.
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