Antec Fusion Remote Max HTPC case

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Thermal and noise testing comprise the core of most SPCR equipment reviews. Please keep in mind that the range of component options and installation variants is large, and there is no way for any review to cover all such permutations. Our system is one example of what can be done. You should be able to draw broader generalizations from our detailed analysis of this particular system.

An AMD Phenom 9600 in a 790G chipset board with an ATI HD4870 graphics card was installed and several variant setups tested in the Fusion Remote Max.

"Whoa," some of you will say, "Why such powerful components for a HTPC? Aren't you seeking to minimize the power and thermal profile of the system, especially for a HTPC which requires only modest computing power?"

These are valid questions. The answer is that we're trying to push this case to its thermal limits. The Fusion Remote Max is promoted as a HTPC case that gamers can get behind. You can picture the scene Antec intends: Rabid gamers clicking away on game controls in the light of a huge flat screen TV bursting with color and action... and a PC housed in the FRM somewhere nearby. Well, let's test that image. If the FRM can stay quiet with an extreme gaming system running within, then surely any self-respecting DIY computer builder can make a virtually silent "normal" HTPC in this box.

System Components:


The hardware assembly took several hours, including fiddling time (to examine parts carefully) and the time needed to stop, plan out photos, shoot and edit them, and so on. If photos were not being taken, hardware assembly would probably take a bit more than an hour. It's reasonably straightforward, except when you have to decide how to route the wires. There are many options, and the choices are mostly personal.

Despite the large size, the FRM is not easy to work in, because of the compartmentalization. Avoid installing at components into the slots until all the other wiring is done, get HDDs with wiring already in place. A modular cable PSU is just about mandatory, as spacing in the left chamber is very tight.

As with the Fusion/NSK2400, the front panel features are powered via a USB connector and a 4-pin connector that splits off of a breakout adapter for the ATX connector. The latter adds complication and bulk to the wiring; it's a real pain. Unfortunately, the reality is that any HTPC that is meant to function with a remote control must tap the PWR-ON pin to the power supply if it is to provide "power button" functionality. And, the only way to do this is to tap the main ATX connector. Needless to say, the inconvenience of an ATX pass-through connector is fairly standard.

The PITA 24-pin breakout adapter for powering the front panel LCD.

The installation of the Scythe Orochi CPU heatsink is worth a close look. The Orochi is a ridiculously big and overly heavy heatsink that we have chosen not to review because its 1.3 kilogram mass is probably dangerous to your motherboard when hanging sideways in a tower case. It is so big that it will not even fit in most tower cases. We don't recommend it, especially on socket 775 boards; the Orochi's mounting hardware is simply inadequate, in our opinion.

However, the FRM is not a tower case; the heatsink sits atop the board, so it doesn't hang sideways and apply cantilever force as it would in a conventional tower configuration. It also just squeezes in, and on the motherboard of choice, fills the entire corner nearest the exhaust fans with cooling fins. The big fan that it comes with does not fit, but with the Antec case fans so close, it did not seem necessary.

Asus M3A78-T motherboard next to Orochi, with AM2 clip attached.

Hmmm... will it really fit in the Fusion Max??

Just barely, but the 120mm fan on the back panel had to be removed.

In this configuration, the rear 120mm exhaust fan had to be removed, so that vent became an intake for the system. The initial configuration was designed for minimal noise, with just one ATI HD 4870 video card and no data drive; the operating system was installed on the Intel SSD. Yes, the SSD is overkill, but it's a bonus for the system not to handle the 4~8W additional hard drive heat and the noise that goes with it. The center HDD chamber was dismantled so that its bottom intake would be more open for airflow. We'll take all of this into account in our analysis.

Another view.

Windows Vista Ultimate was installed and fully updated, and our usual gamut of software tools installed:

  • SpeedFan 4.37 for CPU and other hardware monitoring.
  • CPUBurn for processor stress testing.
  • ATITool provides a steady high load to the GPU.
  • 3DMark06 gaming benchmark
  • GPU-Z to monitor video card temperature

Other tools:


Just a quick digression about the acoustic environment and desired functionality of the media PC. The way a media PC is used is different than the average desktop PC. The most important differences are noted below.

Media PC
Normal PC
On equipment rack, near TV / stereo
On desktop next to monitor on on floor under / beside desk
Play & record music and video, play games; usual PC functions secondary.
Office, creative, engineering, scientific and communication work; gaming and other entertainment functions usually secondary
User Position
Typically at least 2 meters away.
Typically not more than 1 meter
Overall Acoustics
Background, the PC noise, noise from other A/V equipment, conversation, and the music/soundtrack playing from TV/stereo speakers
Background + typing noise + noise generated by PC, perhaps background music

In a nutshell, the media PC is usually situated near the TV, which is usually at least six feet away from the seated viewers. The noise in the room includes whatever is being played through the speakers of the A/V system, plus any noise made by other audio/video gear. From first hand experience, we know that...

Many digital TV boxes and PVRs contain a noisy hard drive and fan(s). The HDD is often on all the time, whenever the unit is plugged in. This means the noise is there all the time, whether you're using the gear or not. There is no real care in ensuring low acoustics; we've measured nothing lower than 25 [email protected]; it's more typically closer to 30 [email protected] or higher because the HDD is hard mounted to the chassis, and the chassis then makes whatever it's sitting on resonate.

Many high end (and not so high end) A/V receivers contain a fan that runs almost all the time. This is usually not as intrusive as the HDD noise in the digital TV boxes and PVRs, but still measures at least 20 [email protected]

Almost all rear projection TVs require at least one cooling fan to be on constantly. The speed of this fan does usually vary with internal temperature, which naturally goes up the longer the TV is left on. The typical noise of these TVs (with the speakers muted) is around 30 [email protected]

30 [email protected] is about the absolute minimum level needed for intelligibility of speech, given typical dynamics when the TV, movie or game sound is turned on. Typical levels are much higher, with peaks reaching ~60 [email protected], and averaging at least 40~45 [email protected] This depends a great deal on viewer / listener habits, hearing sensitivity, housing setup, etc.

In general, sound levels for movies are much higher, likely 10~20 dBA higher for both average and peaks. This is also true of music listening: Most people prefer higher levels for better detail and realism. Typical peaks from an A/V system playing music probably reach 80 [email protected], with the average being perhaps 10~15 dBA lower (depending on the type of music, of course.)

These are broad generalizations. Suffice it to say that we believe the acoustic environment for a media PC will almost always be much louder than for other types of home PCs. Its noise will be masked by the sound from the speakers — at least until you hit the mute button, at which point the PC and other A/V equipment noise may become very much audible.

At the same time, if the HTPC is in a multifunction room, but you still want quick and instant access to its media functions, then it will have to stay on. Then the idle HTPC noise will be there for you to hear whenever you are in the room, whether you're using the equipment or not. S3 standby mode is a good solution to have near-instant turn-on while still eliminating idle noise when the system is not being used.

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