jaganath wrote:a lot of these HS use frameless fans, but theoretically a fan with the duct provided by the normal housing should produce more CFM, so why do they do it?

There is something mentioned somewhere about less turbulence noise isn't there?

"NINJA (noise) VANISH!!!"

I have both, and the ninja is a winner to me, however both are very good.

My a8n and 4600 on 939 works great with RMClock and even just using the stock CnQ. I have had other issues with CnC on some Asus mainboards in the past however... one was an AM2 single core athlon 3500.

graysky wrote:@jag: that does seem high, but I checked and indeed, TH's article shows those values.

Toms Hardware is not the first place i go for reliable information.

MikeC wrote:
PS -- if you're interested I have a really early VIA m-ITX board you could fool around with for cheap. Email me.

it would be a real honor to whomever ends up with that, the "breadbox" is something of legend.

slot 1 Pentium 3? It is probably the .25u Katmai core which are more power hungry then the Coppermine. If you do some research you can probably find information to do the 'nailpolish mod' to reduce the vcore down to 1.8volts, (if the stock is 2.0) and that is about there low side. If it is a copperm...

temperature controlled Noctua fans in the top and rear fan holes is the most silent case cooling your going to get. A lower chamber fan is not necessary when the cooling holes around the PSU mounting have been taped shut. My HX520 draws enough air to cool 3 hard drives mounted in the lower chamber t...

ronrem wrote:Audiophiles upgrade these with better capacitors,op amps and make super quality cards from them. Kids...don't try that at home.

i did that to my x-fi =D

Amazing rig first of all. I am contemplating upgrading to something similar. on my A8N mainboard with a Ninja and HR03, the video card sits in the top possible slot and the cpu is somewhat oriented in the middle of the top of the mainboard. With the HR on the topside of my video card it has about a ...

the best trick would be to get a small capacitor rated for at least 12 volts. I am unsure what other parts you would need however.

I am sure there are others on here who would be able to tell you exactly how to wire it up. (i think you only need it inline of the positive lead)

im glad first impressions are good! How is its noise signature compared to the stock ninja?

I have never tried a Yate Loon or S flex. My only experience is with Noctua.

ob2kenobi wrote:Thanks for the info. Hopefully my replacement from Newegg wont be from the same batch.

the replacement should be ok, gigabyte issued a small recall on some models recently.

1.25 volts for that CPU should be right in the ballpark. Some people even get them as low as 1.0 volt at ~1ghz. I second the fault with ram thing. Try removing 1 stick of ram and see if that helps. Also if the motherboard allows for Latency settings to be changed, try setting the ram to Cas 3, (high...

mine is using the old aluminum zalman northbridge cooler, (the old small one) and a Paniflo L directly to it. Normally its only somewhat warm to the touch, but the temp reading puts it into the low to mid 40s, it is certainly better then stock screaming. The PCB right next to my northbridge is also ...

A Ninja Heatsink and fan is both Quieter and has MORE cooling power then any zalman on the market. It is also cheaper to boot.

There are better then zalman now.

In that case the next best option is a fan mate, and be carfull to watch the temps if you can find a software readout.

Oxboy555 wrote:What is the difference between these 2?

Thanks.

one has lights, the other doesn't. There both rather noisy.

Skythe infinity or Skythe Ninja both elevate themselves above the motherboard to try and clear most of the capacitors and such around the CPU socket. And either or would most likely fit and cool the cpu much quieter then what the stock one will. The only P4D that i had experience with was the 3ghz m...

edit, didn't see your reply..

It could work if you are able to perhaps build an air duct to the fan in which its facing, and the other fan would cool the rest of the system. Cheap folded cereal box cardboard could work.

that should work fine, but it would be probably more beneficial to have some sort of side panels in place, with good bottom intake, and have the top of the case removed to create a wind tunnel effect. But in all reality, a nexus or noctua at 5 volts is inaudible, and will quadruple the effectiveness...

Welcome to SPCR

There were a bad run of GigaByte Silent Pipe video cards that had a few bad power supply parts on them. It is a defective card and can be replaced under warranty.

It is somewhat common for midrange gigabyte cards right now.

the mounting holes are in completely different spots from what i understand. I am also not sure that the mounting plates from the non-plus would even work with the plus. Since TR says that it only works with that card, i would assume there right.

thejamppa wrote:I was under impression Ninja's stock fan was regular sleeve bearing.

Im sure thats what it is, but which manufacture i have no clue.

the stock ninja fan is not an Sflex as far as i know. I think it is an NMB of some sort. Anyone else care to chime in and answer that? At least i think its decent for what it is. From what i hear the Yate Loon's and most likely the cheaftec rebranded fans are better then the stock skyth ninja fan. M...

i would imagine them to be decent. There are two variants of them, the ball barring and sleeve barring. The Sleeve barring will run quieter at lower voltage and is usaly preferable. I am willing to bet either to be better then what you currently have.

in some PSU's with temp controlled fans, if the fan wont start right away, the temp will rise causing the fan controller to increase voltage to the fan in a matter of seconds thus causing it to start. If the fan does not start right away it may start within 15-30 seconds, either way it is not always...

chances are if you simply replace the fan with something slightly slower it will not be an issue. They are capable of running much warmer then what they do at stock without a problem. An old g4 tower i used to have here was able to take substantial undervolting on the fans before anything got remote...

Das_Saunamies wrote:- I'm very much interested in knowing what my setup draws from the socket, and if I can get that integrated into a fan controller, count me in.

As far as i can see, it only displays draw of the fans themselves, and it may or may not include the overhead of the fan controller itself.

I have had it bad with drives lately.. It seems like they are all crap now. My 3rd DVD burner just went bellyup in the last year.

Its not worth the time and effort to send them back to be replaced either.

Get a samsung 501lj (the 500 GB one) and suspend it in a 3.5'' bay with some elastic tie; if it is too warm just cool it with a silent fan undervolted to 5V. There is no need for anything else. Money well spent. 6point elastic suspension works great, even for transporting computers. If your compute...