Mobile Barton 2500 - owners and wannabe owners...

apocalypse80 · Post by **apocalypse80** » Wed Apr 14, 2004 11:32 pm

Memory timings don't affect motherboard stability.

Actually it's the memory voltage that is holding me back.
With the 3V that this motherboard can give I can get the memory to run at

223 , 2-2-2-11 timings
239 , 2.5-3-3-11 timings

Always with dual channel , interface enabled , everything set up for maximum performance.
239 is actually the maximum of the motherboard , so I'm not too sure of the rams limits.

In real life , 223 tightest timings is a lot faster than 239 with relaxed timings , so it's not worth it.
With ~0.2Volts more , I'd probably be able to use 239 tigh timings.

For 24/7 use I run 11.5x220=2530 , for benchmarks I bump it up to 12x220=2640.

mpteach · Post by **mpteach** » Thu Apr 15, 2004 7:47 am

WoW Microsoft Word must load instantaneously. That a sick rig

Gandalf · Post by **Gandalf** » Thu Apr 15, 2004 9:31 am

I got one a couple of weeks back, currently running at 1500mhz (166 x 9) at 1.225v ...
Who else has undervolted his?

Tigr · Post by **Tigr** » Thu Apr 15, 2004 9:37 am

fabre wrote:Sadly on the A7N8X-X I don't seem to be able to increment the fsb, I only have the choice between 100 133 166 or 200

You have to select "User Defined" in the item "System Performance". Then all other values for FSB become available.

will0957 · Post by **will0957** » Thu Apr 15, 2004 10:09 am

hopefully someone here can help me.

i ordered a mobile barton 2600 last night. i am willing to purchase a new motherboard if necessary. however, i currently have a board that i am happy with and would like to use if possible -- the msi kt3 ultra2 raid.

will that board work by default with the mobile barton? i am worried about the voltage, because in the bios the options are "auto", or something like 1.65 up to 1.8 or so. the barton runs at 1.45.

since it says auto, will it work at the lower voltage or what? or do i need a new board?

i don't care about overclocking, just the silent pc.

trodas · Post by **trodas** » Fri Apr 16, 2004 12:33 pm

The auto should set the voltage to the right Vcore 1.45V, however, depends on how your mobo is old, it MIGHT need bios update - if there is available - to support mobile Barton CPUs

...after all, don't worry, if the voltage just go wrong, you either can't boot or the CPU heat will be the same

Most the Barton cores can work at 2,2Vcore, so no worries if instead of 1.45V you get 1.5 or 1.6Vcore.
In the 1.5Vcore case you are so close, so any imporovments will be minimal, IMHO

mpteach wrote:WoW Microsoft Word must load instantaneously. That a sick rig

That's a myth. I now running on 200 x 9.5 (sadly only) Barton 1.9Vcore and 2-2-2-11

Before i run at 133 x 12.5 with same Barton at 3-4-4-11

One can see the FSB and memory speed bumped a lot. I have now also 1Gby of mem in double channel config - memspeed jumped from 711MB/sec to 1450MB/sec - but in windows reality, i did see only minor improvments - yes, appications starting about 20-30% faster, but that it is. No big deal. For the money spendt on super hi-performance Mushkin rams I could say - no big deal

Trust me, or try the same for yourself

fabre · Post by **fabre** » Sat Apr 17, 2004 11:59 pm

Mine is now running at 200 x 12 @ 1.775v (doesn't boot @ 1.7v)

Idle 43
Load 49 (after an hour of far cry)

the ram is 512 pc3200 Samsung would it support 220 mhz?

/edit

Finally set it up at 200 x 11 @ 1.60v

might be the best performance/temperature ratio for me

Idle 39
Load 43

mpteach · Post by **mpteach** » Sun Apr 18, 2004 12:16 pm

trodas wrote: Most the Barton cores can work at 2,2Vcore, so no worries if instead of 1.45V you get 1.5 or 1.6Vcore.
In the 1.5Vcore case you are so close, so any imporovments will be minimal, IMHO

2.2V? not with air cooling. That would damage your chip in a months time. Without allot of cooling, that voltage would be enought to magically release the smoke that they put in the chips when their made. Allot of it

trodas wrote:
mpteach wrote:WoW Microsoft Word must load instantaneously. That a sick rig
That's a myth. I now running on 200 x 9.5 (sadly only) Barton 1.9Vcore and 2-2-2-11 Before i run at 133 x 12.5 with same Barton at 3-4-4-11
One can see the FSB and memory speed bumped a lot. I have now also 1Gby of mem in double channel config - memspeed jumped from 711MB/sec to 1450MB/sec - but in windows reality, i did see only minor improvments - yes, appications starting about 20-30% faster, but that it is. No big deal. For the money spendt on super hi-performance Mushkin rams I could say - no big deal
Trust me, or try the same for yourself

Well im going to wait untill RAM prices go down. 20-30% is a good deal faster since i switch applications often. I think most behemoth apps are more limited by ram bandwith than cpu clockspeed. Folding is really the only program were only max clockspeeds really matter.

With a Gig or ram you could put frequently used applications into a ramdisk and they would load even faster.

apocalypse80 · Post by **apocalypse80** » Sun Apr 18, 2004 2:26 pm

2.2V is impossible to cool with ANYTHING short of a prometeia (hard even with that).
With air , your chip will probably reach 80°C the second you start prime95 and proceed to melt

...

About loading times , only HDD matters , nothing else.
In fact , mine are hideous - Hitachi HDD , set to ultra silent (and sloooow...) , with feature tool , so loading isn't my PC's best point.
However , once the loading is finished , those 2.5Ghz prove their power...

Hell , I (for a few days) will have to work @ 10.5x220=2305 , cause I RMAed the PSU and the "backup" PSU can't handle 1.9Vcore.
I hate every minute of it , it feels sloooooooow

.

trodas · Post by **trodas** » Tue Apr 20, 2004 2:16 am

I have set the Maxtor 120G to disable AAM for fastest performance (i don't mind hearing the HDD, when it working, it mostly not working...) and the loading times was kick-ass even before.
Even at crappy 133Mhz 3-4-4-11 Im allways the first in CoD multiplayer game lavel

...and now i have to wait for the other suxxkers a lot, hmmm...

mpteach - i did not see 2.2V as so much extreme now. The temperature are around 56 degrees, wich is pretty much acceptable for me

And for burn-in it kick ass

2.2V rules

...and no smoke there - yet

I don't like the ram disk idea much, i rather buy faster HDD

However 1Gby is not very much memory todays...

apocalypse80 - either you are speed freak, or i can't believe you can actually feel the difference between 2500 and 230MHz.
Bad PSU suxx a lot, true. Mine Enermax 431W is rockstable (knocking on wood) and i even enhanced the 3.3V to 3.6V for increased stability at very high FSB and more gnerated heat

apocalypse80 · Post by **apocalypse80** » Tue Apr 20, 2004 4:16 am

I was amazed myself that I could tell the difference between 2500 and 2300 , but still , I can....
I'm too spoilt (I've been using 2.2Ghz+ athlons for 1.5 year).

The equation for cpu heat is:

Overclocked heat =(normal heat)* (overclocked mhz / normal mhz)*(overclocked volts / normal volts)^2

As you can see , using huge voltage isn't enough to produce huge heat , you also need high mhz.
So using 2.2V and 500mhz for burn-in might be ok , but using 2.2V with 2500mhz+ will get you >150 Watts...

BMW · Post by **BMW** » Tue Apr 20, 2004 11:41 am

I must have one of the good ones.

My XP-M 2500 is running 200x11 @ 1.45V and folding perfectly 24/7. Obviously temps are great, I hve AeroCool HT-102 with a Panaflo 80mm L1A @~6V.

Brent

trodas · Post by **trodas** » Tue Apr 20, 2004 12:15 pm

Damn lucker

...what about exchanging CPUs?

SuperBusTerror · Post by **SuperBusTerror** » Tue Apr 20, 2004 4:18 pm

I just had a nightmare trying to order an Athlon 64 3400+ AR/CG CPU from NewEgg and have given up in frustration. Even if they do ever get any more in stock, there is NO guarantee they won't ship you the AP/C0 instead!

So I'm going to jump on the Mobile Barton XP 2500 bandwagon after all. Can anyone recommend:

1) A good mobo with onboard USB2.0 and 1394 that takes PC133 SDRAM. On-board Audio and/or video not necessary. I'll probably be underclocking/undervolting it to get it as cool and quiet as possible.

2) Where to buy a good CPU? A retailer that will ship me exactly what they advertise and what I order? (Obviously not NewEgg.) I don't need to get the rock-bottom price. I'd rather be able to trust the company.

Thanks for the advice!

-- SBT

ao · Post by ao » Tue Apr 20, 2004 4:28 pm

SuperBusTerror wrote: 1) A good mobo with onboard USB2.0 and 1394 that takes PC133 SDRAM. On-board Audio and/or video not necessary. I'll probably be underclocking/undervolting it to get it as cool and quiet as possible.

I'd be really surprised if this combo, at least the onboard usb 2.0 part of it, exists. Seems that usb 2 became commonplace a fair bit after the shift to DDR. Add on USB 2.0 PCI cards are cheap though, so I wouldn't let it be much of a factor.

wumpus · Post by **wumpus** » Tue Apr 20, 2004 6:05 pm

2) Where to buy a good CPU? A retailer that will ship me exactly what they advertise and what I order? (Obviously not NewEgg.) I don't need to get the rock-bottom price. I'd rather be able to trust the company.

I remember some vendor that does this (guarantees model/stepping CPUs)-- of course you will pay more, though. Check HardOCP vendor ads.. I want to say Azzo? or PCNut?

Post by **Rusty075** » Tue Apr 20, 2004 6:23 pm

SuperBusTerror wrote:1) A good mobo with onboard USB2.0 and 1394 that takes PC133 SDRAM. On-board Audio and/or video not necessary. I'll probably be underclocking/undervolting it to get it as cool and quiet as possible.

Let me get this straight; you are willing to drop $400 on a CPU (the 3400) yet you want to pinch pennies and stick with ancient PC133? That's a seriously messed up set of priorities.

Go with a DDR board: more performance, same price. And you'll have literally hundreds of boards to choose from that meet your requirements.

mpteach · Post by **mpteach** » Tue Apr 20, 2004 11:49 pm

try for a dual channel mobo like the abit nf7s

CharlieChan · Post by **CharlieChan** » Wed Apr 28, 2004 3:44 am

Does anyone know how watts a stock mobile XP 2500 system takes at the power point. I have a Tbred 2400 which consumes 120Watts underload (diskless folding client) according to my power meter.

Thanks.

apocalypse80 · Post by **apocalypse80** » Wed Apr 28, 2004 3:51 am

The Tbred 2400 is rated @ 68.3Watts , while the mobile 2500+ is rated @ 45Watts.
I guess you should see a 23Watt reduction in power consumption.

trodas · Post by **trodas** » Wed Apr 28, 2004 5:09 am

apocalypse80 wrote:As you can see , using huge voltage isn't enough to produce huge heat , you also need high mhz. So using 2.2V and 500mhz for burn-in might be ok , but using 2.2V with 2500mhz+ will get you >150 Watts...

Well, i tried 2.2Vcore + 200Mhz FSB x 11 and Prime95 and the temperature is still only 56 degrees, so with good watercooling I don't see a problem

However my friend told me, that he was able to run the Barton at 3200+ rating (200x11) only when he did exceptionally well work with the ArcticSilver past - very, very thin layer, partly see-trough one, and then it should work

Damn, I must be then bad at this

...only 3000+ is stable there (200x10.5)

SuperBusTerror - Epox 8RDA+ has all you want + supernice fast double-channel DDR interface, with scream for nice good Mushkins HI-PERFORMANCE to get 2-2-2-11 (11 is fastest on nForce2 boards, not 5

) timings at at least 200Mhz

Fold on then

kevjapan · Post by **kevjapan** » Wed Jun 02, 2004 12:33 am

Just wanted to send out ONE BIG THANK YOU to apocalypse80.

Your pin mod trick for motherboards to get over the 6x mulitplier worked like a charm with my Leadtek K7NCR18D mb now equipped with a Barton 2500 mobile. Right now running it at 1.5v 155*14=2100mhz. Running fairly cool. May see if I can push it some more but I my memory is only PC2100 and am more concerned with heat/noise than speed. And it gets hot here in the summer.

If you've been scared to try the pin mod trick give it a try. It's cake!

greeef · Post by **greeef** » Wed Jun 02, 2004 3:55 pm

apocalypse80 wrote:Memory timings don't affect motherboard stability.

Actually it's the memory voltage that is holding me back.
With the 3V that this motherboard can give I can get the memory to run at

223 , 2-2-2-11 timings
239 , 2.5-3-3-11 timings

Always with dual channel , interface enabled , everything set up for maximum performance.
239 is actually the maximum of the motherboard , so I'm not too sure of the rams limits.

In real life , 223 tightest timings is a lot faster than 239 with relaxed timings , so it's not worth it.
With ~0.2Volts more , I'd probably be able to use 239 tigh timings.

For 24/7 use I run 11.5x220=2530 , for benchmarks I bump it up to 12x220=2640.

i presume you know this already, but you canmod the nf7 to overvolt the memory - i've been told BH5 can take 3.5V hapilly, but i can't say i have evidence..

http://www.nforcershq.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=121350

apocalypse80 · Post by **apocalypse80** » Wed Jun 02, 2004 7:32 pm

Yes , I know about the mods , but haven't done any voltmods on this motherboard.

That's because while BH-5 can take high voltages , most people using >3.2V 24/7 do it with ***ACTIVE*** cooling on the memory....
Hell , my memory doesn't even have heatspreaders...

Plus , if you want to deliver over 3.3V to the memory , you also need to mod the PSU's 3.3V rail to supply higher voltage.

Now that's 2 voided warranties (mobo+PSU) plus added noise (memory fan) for not so great benefit.
So I just don't do it.

trodas · Post by **trodas** » Fri Jun 11, 2004 4:58 am

Back to the topic

Mine Barton 2500+ mobile
http://ax2.wz.cz/2500Barton_mobile.htm
run at 1.850Vcore and 2520Mhz

http://ax2.wz.cz/AXPmobile.gif

...it even can boot at 2600Mhz, so I quess that with a little more voltage is capable of more, but I don't like the idea to feed the chip with too much voltage anyway

Tigr · Post by **Tigr** » Fri Jun 11, 2004 1:16 pm

Right, well, I am not into pushing it that far but:

Mobile XP 2600+
running at 12x200 = 2400 MHz
at 1.625v core setting
in Asus A7N8X-E Deluxe
with Thermalright SLK900 + Papst 90mm
with ambient of 28 C, case temp 34 C, idle 41 C, folding 57 C, CPUburn 60 C

[rant]
On the subject of core voltage: @%#$ Asus board understands the setting of core voltage as a "minimum setting" or something. At 1.625 set the voltage fluctuates randomly between 1.62 and 1.7 V! I thought these boards have voltage regulators, you know...

[/rant]

gingercat · Post by **gingercat** » Sat Jul 03, 2004 10:44 am

[quote]will that board work by default with the mobile barton?[/quote]

Is there a known board that will work by default with the mobile barton (at the correct speed)?

Does changing settings for your motherboard invalidate it's warranty?

Tigr · Post by **Tigr** » Sat Jul 03, 2004 12:43 pm

gingercat wrote: Is there a known board that will work by default with the mobile barton (at the correct speed)?

One board I now know of is the Soltek KT600 board. That one detects the Mobile XP CPU and runs it at correct settings. For 2600+ it is FSB 133 and multiplier 15. The problem is, this board will NOT let you change the multiplier just like if you used a locked CPU. So, I do not think you really want one of those.

gingercat · Post by **gingercat** » Sun Jul 04, 2004 3:56 am

I'll look into that one.

As long as it works at default anyway, I think it'll be ok - I'm not too worried about being able to change stuff, but just have the advantage of a more power efficient cpu at default. Thanx.

geology · Post by **geology** » Wed Aug 18, 2004 6:08 am

I'm one of the wannabes and new to SPCR. I want to build a system around the 35W 1.35V XP-M 2400+ (different chip from the thread title, but same principles). I want to run it at its listed voltage (1.35V) and multiplier (13.5). My objective is to have a good balance system - good performance but low heat, and without pinmodding or water cooling or such. (I'm not quite that adventurous.) I currently have an XP 1900+, which I believe has a Palominio core, and if so puts out 68W - which is just too much heat. (It will heat up my room after a couple hours, which I really don't like.)

I also don't like how big my current system is, which leads me to my question:

Does anyone know of a micro-ATX motherboard that allows sufficient control of the voltage and multiplier to achieve 1.35V and 13.5 multiplier? And that's available in the USA.

I've seen a bunch that don't, and a couple that allow control of multiplier but not voltage (at least not downward), but haven't seen one yet that does both. The Abit NF7-S sounds great, but it's full-size ATX. If anyone can recommend one, it would be greatly appreciated.

Mobile Barton 2500 - owners and wannabe owners...

Very Happy with XP2500M

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