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 Post subject: how do drive rails work?
PostPosted: Sat Jan 15, 2005 5:16 pm 
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dear all,

i've received my antec 3000B, but i'm trying to figure out how to put my DVD drive in. there's no manual from Antec! figured out it's probably those drawer-rail-like things, but don't know how to use them!

if somebody could post pics i'd be most grateful!

thanks


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 Post subject: Re: how do drive rails work?
PostPosted: Sat Jan 15, 2005 5:27 pm 
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as530 wrote:
i've received my antec 3000B, but i'm trying to figure out how to put my DVD drive in. there's no manual from Antec! figured out it's probably those drawer-rail-like things, but don't know how to use them!


Screw them to the drive with the flat side towards the drive and the round thing at the front. I'm pretty sure there's only one way the holes line up properly.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 15, 2005 5:47 pm 
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MassMan wrote:
I've ordered it and will probably get it monday. Do you think I can run my system with a single rear fan if I tape over all the small holes in the front so that the airflow will get concentrated over my harddrive(s) at the bottom of the case?

(nexus nx-3000, ath 1800+, gf4mx passively cooled, 7200.7)


I've taped over the front of my BQE and run an 80mm L1A at the front intake with a minimum voltage setting on a Zalman controller, and the HDD (a BIV) is at 33 degrees. The L1A is mounted with elastomers and is nearly inaudible.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 15, 2005 6:05 pm 
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oh right, thanks! i was screwing them on with the round silvery thing at the back - probably why it wasn't working!

thanks again


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2005 12:26 am 
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Mike -

You're right... it was a bit of an over-reaction. I guess I was just hoping that maybe the whole side-vent thing had been improved and was maybe worth revisiting. Apparently that's just not the case.

But hey... has anyone else experienced a ridiculously quiet, basically inaudible Antec 350S PSU? Am I just really lucky with it?

-PS


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 21, 2005 2:47 am 
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Mini review:

Installation went pretty easy, apart from when I had to remove the cpu heat sink to get the psu fitted, that steel crossbar might help with stability but it really gets in the way if you don't think ahead. The lacking manual almost gets nullified by the logical and simple components.
As expected the rubber grommets still lead substantial hd vibration to the rest of the case and suspending the harddrives is necessary. The harddrive cage is easily removed but to remove the lower mounting thingie a more brutal approach has to be taken.

System: ath 1800+ w/ silent viking, gf4 (passive), 120gb 7200.7, nexus 3000, only case fan the included trispeed @ low setting, cpu duct removed, holes in side taped over, front taped, weird hole under air intake taped as well.

Temps at idle: cpu: 40, hd: 29, ambient: 22

Noise: pretty difficult to hear (got no real chance of determining db)

Negative (other than the ones mentioned by mikec in the review):
Bar for stiffening can get a little annoying.
The front door seems a bit cheap.
Interior is full of scratches and a few sharp edges can be found.
Rear fan is too loud in mid & high settings.

Overall I would say the case is a great rugged base for a silent computer in its price range.

(deleted the faulty led part which obviously was a case of user error... *whistles*)


Last edited by MassMan on Sat Jan 22, 2005 4:33 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 21, 2005 5:50 am 
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MassMan wrote:
The front hd and power leds seem to be non-functional on my sample, not that it matters to me but it might for some.


The PWR and HDD LEDs are polarity-sensitive so flip the connectors over and try again.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 21, 2005 9:54 am 
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OK, so I bought the case and what? I'm hearing this annoying humming... it's driving me insane! Could it be that bloody Aerocool AeroPower PSU? Or the Arctic-Cooling Copper Silent 2 HSF? GAHH :evil:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 21, 2005 9:59 am 
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rpsgc wrote:
OK, so I bought the case and what? I'm hearing this annoying humming... it's driving me insane! Could it be that bloody Aerocool AeroPower PSU? Or the Arctic-Cooling Copper Silent 2 HSF? GAHH :evil:


READ! -- How to Identify the Source of Noise in a PC

Most likely culprits: 1) your PSU and 2) your HDD.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 21, 2005 10:35 am 
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It's a constant hum (typical to a fan) so it can't be the HDD. I think it's the HSF. I feared this would happen :/ Maybe I'll buy a Zalman 7000B

Ralf Hutter wrote:
The PWR and HDD LEDs are polarity-sensitive so flip the connectors over and try again.


The PWR LED works now, but I think the HDD doesn't, there's two connectors for HDD LED :? And BTW, below the PWR and HDD LED there's two more LEDs, what for? Having no manual is a b**ch

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 21, 2005 10:44 am 
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HDD's definitely can produce a constant hum, and most will if not suspended.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 21, 2005 10:59 am 
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rpsgc wrote:
It's a constant hum (typical to a fan) so it can't be the HDD. I think it's the HSF. I feared this would happen :/ Maybe I'll buy a Zalman 7000B

I strongly advise you do your due diligence if you want to solve this noise issue: Read that linked article and clearly identify the source of noise!

It unlikely to be the HSF unless that fan is spinning fast all the time. It is MUCH more likely to be the PSU or the HDD. The AC HSF is generally quiet under most conditions. It's a proven and tested device. PSU is an unknown -- hence much more suspect. And I'd go one step further than hmsrolst: ALL 3.5" HDD's produce a constant hum if not suspended or otherwise decouple-mounted.

Here's one more thing to try for noise diagnosis: Boot up into the BIOS with everything connected normally. Listen carefully with a tube to each component. Now turn the system off, then disconnect the power to the HDD. Boot up again into the BIOS & listen again. The difference is what the HDD adds in noise.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 21, 2005 11:03 am 
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PS - I have found that the 380S in my Sonata is basically silent. I can hear a little bit of noise from about 1m, but its is mainly air and basically impossible to hear. (note that this is when i have run it outside the case powering a test rig, but it doesnt seem much louder inside)

rpsgc - The two extra LED's are for whatever you want. They are especially useful if you have a RAID controller and want to monitor multiple drives.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 21, 2005 12:12 pm 
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I've already turned on the computer with the HDD disconnected. It isn't it. Damn it, they said this PSU was quiet...

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 21, 2005 12:21 pm 
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rpsgc wrote:
I've already turned on the computer with the HDD disconnected. It isn't it. Damn it, they said this PSU was quiet...

If you are sure the PSU is the source, then go to the Recommended PSU list and pick a highly ranked one from there as a substitute. Maybe "they" will give you an exchange?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 21, 2005 12:39 pm 
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Ralf Hutter wrote:
The PWR and HDD LEDs are polarity-sensitive so flip the connectors over and try again.

Got the hdd working (never knew they were +- sensitive so I must have gotten lucky with my previous comps :D ), but the pwr is too wide to fit.

In my old case the pwr header used the middle and left one of the sides unused, 3000b leaves the middle unused, which of course is a problem when there's only 2 pins avaliable, meaning that pwr only touches 1 pin:
Pin layout

How to fix this?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 21, 2005 12:45 pm 
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MikeC wrote:
rpsgc wrote:
I've already turned on the computer with the HDD disconnected. It isn't it. Damn it, they said this PSU was quiet...

If you are sure the PSU is the source, then go to the Recommended PSU list and pick a highly ranked one from there as a substitute. Maybe "they" will give you an exchange?


Nevermind what I said. I did what you told me to do, I turned the computer off and checked one by one every fanned component. Conclusion, it really is the HSF. I never noticed it being this loud, there must be something wrong with it :roll:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 21, 2005 12:48 pm 
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MassMan wrote:
Ralf Hutter wrote:
The PWR and HDD LEDs are polarity-sensitive so flip the connectors over and try again.

Got the hdd working (never knew they were +- sensitive so I must have gotten lucky with my previous comps :D ), but the pwr is too wide to fit.

In my old case the pwr header used the middle and left one of the sides unused, 3000b leaves the middle unused, which of course is a problem when there's only 2 pins avaliable, meaning that pwr only touches 1 pin:
Pin layout

How to fix this?


I'm not sure I follow, but you can look here for a 3-pin to 2-pin connector if that's your problem.

http://www.directron.com/3pinled.html


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 21, 2005 1:44 pm 
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hmsrolst:

My old pwr cable had the two pins right next to each other. I'm going to try and draw it and maybe ppl will follow my thoughts :)
O is wired, [ ] is unwired

Old: [O][O][ ]
3000b: [O][ ][O]

On my mb there's only room for 2 right next to each other and 3000b leaves one of the wired hanging in the air.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 21, 2005 3:30 pm 
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MassMan wrote:
hmsrolst:

My old pwr cable had the two pins right next to each other. I'm going to try and draw it and maybe ppl will follow my thoughts :)
O is wired, [ ] is unwired

Old: [O][O][ ]
3000b: [O][ ][O]

On my mb there's only room for 2 right next to each other and 3000b leaves one of the wired hanging in the air.


Since I assume the mobo has two together, and the 3000B has two on the outside (from your drawing), the connector should work for you. Rignt?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 21, 2005 4:17 pm 
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This is from a Sonata but the power connector of a 3000B probably looks the same. If you have the right tool (a very tiny screwdriver) and are better in fiddling with small things than I am, then you are supposed to be able to change the position of the wires in the connector.

Look at the copper pieces. Just below each copper piece is a plastic tab holding the wire in the connector. Use a tiny screwdriver to lift the tab and gently pull on the wire. Then put it back in the hole you want.

P.S.
One of my mobo's (an ASUS P4R800-VM) has two places you can connect a power LED. One for a 3 pin connector as in the picture. One with two pins next to each other.

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Last edited by Tibors on Fri Jan 21, 2005 5:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 21, 2005 4:36 pm 
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Other option, is to get a pair of scissors and some sellotape to fix it back together again. Has worked a treat with everyone i've done :P

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 22, 2005 4:29 am 
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Thanks Tibors, your method worked :>
I didn't have a tiny screwdriver but a toothpick got the job done.

Also thanks to hmsrolst :>


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 25, 2005 2:05 pm 
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Just build a PC with this case.

SLK3000B
Tagan 480-U01
Nexus 120 front screwmounted
Antec backfan at Low
Asus A8N SLI
Zalman NB heatsink
Leadtek PX6600GT (more silent with Gainward Expert tool)
A64 3000+ @ 3800+
CPU fan silent with QFan enabled

All is silent.
IMO Very silent for a gaming PC, but
with the disks out side the case...............
as soon as I put in the diskcase (with 2 disks) the whole case starts vibrating. The sound is an up and down going drum.

I allready loosed the diskscrews a bit. No difference.
Never heard/read an issue like this with the 3000B.
What can be the issue? Should some metal of the diskscase be bent to get it better fitting?

Any tips (except removing the diskscase completely ;) )


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 25, 2005 2:11 pm 
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Sake wrote:
Jas soon as I put in the diskcase (with 2 disks) the whole case starts vibrating. The sound is an up and down going drum.

I allready loosed the diskscrews a bit. No difference.
Never heard/read an issue like this with the 3000B.
What can be the issue? Should some metal of the diskscase be bent to get it better fitting?

Any tips (except removing the diskscase completely ;) )

You don't mention what the HDDs are...

And for a really quiet system, there's no alternative to decouple mounting for the HDDs. The review of this case explicitly states that the ease of HDD cage removal to open up that front low area behind the intake ventso that HDDs can be suspended is one of the big pluses.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 25, 2005 2:34 pm 
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Sake wrote:
Any tips (except removing the diskscase completely ;) )

burcakb's - Thor's Hammer
This is a good example of a not too complex possible solution for your problem.

burcakb promised me some free Nexus fans if I kept plugging his mod. So here goes...
:wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 25, 2005 2:37 pm 
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Tibors wrote:
burcakb promised me some free Nexus fans if I kept plugging his mod. So here goes...
:wink:


:lol: :lol: :lol:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 25, 2005 2:43 pm 
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HDD's are:
Maxtor 6E040L0 (40 GB, 7200 RPM, Ultra-ATA/133)
IBM IC35L040AVVA07-0 (41 GB, 7200 RPM, Ultra-ATA/100)

Will soon be replaced by allready ordered Seagate 7200.7 NCQ 160GB

FYI I also build a SFF PC with an Antec Aria. PSU and CPU fan @1000rpm.
Without HDD only audible with ear to the case. With HDD still very quiet.
Probably due to better casing (double sided, smaller panels etc)

This drum and noise is really inexceptable. So there must be something wrong...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 25, 2005 3:17 pm 
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Sake wrote:
This drum and noise is really inexceptable. So there must be something wrong...

You need to pin down why this is happening, where it is coming from. Maybe you have a couple of broken rivets that allow panels to vibrate easily?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 25, 2005 3:46 pm 
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Can anyone pls tell me, how big is the hole in the sidepanel? The one for the cpu duct...80mm? 92mm?


Thx!


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