Ksanderash wrote:AC! )) There is written!
Not sure what you mean there, but when I wrote AC or DC, I meant that you did not explain how either of these measurements were obtained. And I don;t see it written anywhere in this thread, if that's what you mean.
But you do explain now:
I measure by the means of a digital multimeter U1242A Agilent, it's quite adequate thing, though it can not tell me how much real power is there, and I simply multiply average V on average A. So I guess the Kill-a-Watt readings will be significantly lower.
I'm not sure if it would show lower -- depends on good the Active PFC in the EDAC is -- it apparently has APFC.
As for the table, there are DC values. I took average readings. The DMM was connected as an amperemeter in the break of a supplying wire of each DC source from Winmate ATX connector. I wrote
here abt it.
OK, you might be right, you might be getting less than 50% efficiency.
But then you mention that the DC power numbers exclude the power taken by the HDD. What about the AC power? If the AC power includes the HDD, this would not be fair, but you don't mention it -- the AC power figures are given after you describe your config, which lists the HDD.
If the HDD power is excluded for DC and included for AC, then you'd have to make adjustments:
I measured the Samsung HD502HI idle power at 3.2W (
shown in my review). So adding this 3.2W, we get ~20W DC for your system at idle and ~48W at peak. At the higher load, PF of the EDAC might be 0.9, which means real AC wattage would be 60W -- this means 80% eff. For the idle load, the EDAC PF is probably lower, maybe 0.8. If this is so, the real power is ~29W, and the eff. is 69%, not as bad as you think.
I struggle now for getting one of a 230V Kill-a-Watt versions, then I'll tell precisely how much is consumed.
