S1 with a Turbo Module (let alone with a 120mm fan) cools better and quieter than VF-1000 and VF-900
http://www.computerbase.de/artikel/hard ... 0/drucken/

and also better than HR-03: http://www.abchw.com/node/19

That said, AC is now officially supporting S1 for 8800GT and 3870 series cards.

The only thing that troubles me is that VRM components might not get adequate cooling if running completely passive, since the ATI VRM heatsinks in the S1 package aren't compatible. To be on the safe side, I'd suggest either consider adding those to the hot MOSFETs, or/and use some kind of fan, either 120mm or Turbo Module.

There's 14mm of space between the cooler and the onboard components - check this drawing.

p.s.: You might want to remove the bigger of the two black plastic parts on the cooler, the one that's covering the heatpipes, since it seems to serve no useful purpose and is kind of just obstructing airflow to some of the power components. It's not even visible when the card+cooler is installed, as it faces the motherboard.

Judging from reviews, the S1 does indeed look at least as good as the HR-03, if not better. The S1 also has the advantage of being large enough to accommodate TWO 120mm fans.

However, I'd like to point out that the HR-03 has one important factor in its favor: it's possible to mount the HR-03 in reverse configuration so the heat sink is on the back side of the card. And this side happens to be the "correct" side in terms of heat exhaust towards the case fan.

I'd like to see the S1 tested against the HR-03 in this alternate configuration.

The difference between a front and back mounted HR-03 is only +-3 degrees. http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/ha ... eview.html

I have a SLI setup with two of these coolers.

Pros:
- Inexpensive
- Effective cooling (depending on case airflow, see below)
- Can accommodate large fan if necessary.

Cons:
- Very large
- SLI/crossfire setup requires extended flexible SLI bridge connector
- Fans will most likely not be an option in SLI (not enough space in my rig)
- Slightly flimsy construction
- The black plastic top and bottom are useless, ugly, and probably counter productive to cooling but are easily removed.
- Proper passive operation requires considerable negative pressure in the case to pull air across the coolers. This is not good for people who hate dust or live with pets.
- Ram sink tape is complete garbage. I used tiny dots of superglue in the corners of my ram and arctic silver 5 in the centre (in a cross, avoiding the dots of glue). Worked perfectly. Ram sinks attached this method can be easily removed with a sharp twisting motion to break the glue.

I guess this comes across as a bit negative but I do love these coolers, this was the most important step to reducing the noise of my system. It is now inaudible in my quiet house from 1m.

You might take a look at the Turbo Module if you're using SLI and low on space. Those fans are only 15mm thick, so the whole enchilada won't take more than 3 slots of space, 2 of which cooling. They do have their own little problems, as they don't have frames around them so you need to be careful with cables (especially SATA cables), and 80mm is 80mm.. But you can run them quite slow and quiet, it's not like S1s really need all that much air pressure.

Yes, turbo module is an option if you are happy to have 80mm fans in your case.

Your right they don't need that much air pressure and perhaps "considerable" is a bit strong. But they do need negative pressure and if you are running a hot system they do need sufficient negative pressure. I think maybe careful consideration of airflow would be a better way of putting it.

I often wish I could see airflow moving through my case. My personal experiance is that lower front intakes (even if moving less air than upper rear exhaust) tend to minimize air sucked in the lower part of the case.

I personally love these coolers but there are negatives.

To Tsorovan: SI is available all over Sweden, the most widespread is through "EMS-butiken", a network of small shops in many places (if ordering per mail, the delivery fee is almost as much as the cooler itself, which is nice to avoid).

I bought one a week ago for 194 SKR, a bargain (approx 250 US) in Stockholm, Lidingö, but there are at least 15-29 more places (google on "prisjakt" or "ems-butiken") to buy it from, having the same delivery source (oskarshams)

No reports on it, though, I have not put it on yet,

ionfresko

Its interesting to read about the strain the S1 puts on the power components on idle, compared to the HR-03.

I assume this is becasue the fins are directly underneath them heating them up, whereas the smaller HR03 footprint doesn't cover them or even better is mounted on the reverse of the card.

The S1 really just seems so amazing it's hard to think anything could come close, especially passive, but with a fan, it's gonna win.

Seriously:

Stock Cooler:
Idle 68C, Load 94C
Speeds: 840/1300

AC S-1 + 800 RPM slipstream
Idle: 40C! (28C on a cold boot)
Load: 54C

The temperature change is so dramatic. 800 rpm slipstream soft mounted is bordering silent. Whole thing doesn't cost a lot.

The cold boot thing was booting up a cold computer and letting it idle in vista without stressing it. After running some benches, it didn't get below 40C.

I am considering the S1

Only thing is I am concerned about the vrm and other pieces that need cooling. I know this is sort of addressed, but I cant see anything at all definite.

If the company says it can cool 3870, doesnt it have the special heatsinks for it?

Anyone actually using the ramsinks in the S1 kit? I noticed everyone is using other stickier ones. Once you factor in the cost of the additional 12? ramsinks for the ram and mosfets..

The S1 way is actually pretty damn expensive! as much as a HR 03.. i'd say

Which begs the question.. is the S1 superior to the HR 03? The widely spaced fins tell me they do better when run passive.

S1 is dirt cheap (inexpensive) compared to other vga coolers on the market but if additional sinks are needed for mosfets like swiftech mc21 that does increase the overall price by $10 (40-50%).

i've got aluminum heatsinks from various computer parts that would be perfectly cheap mc21 alternatives,. whats the best, most efficient, semi-permanent way for me to attach them to the mosfets/rams?

^use thermal tape

VRM cooling I can understand, but is it really necessary to buy more ramsinks? Those things hardly ever get hot.

Will any vrm heatsink fit underneath the S1?

Most of these vrm heatsinks are meant to go along with watercooling systems that have no requirement for clearances.

Also, I am not used to seeing/dealing with VRM things. Are all vga cards standardized or it really doesnt matter?

confused I am young skywalker.

I will be installing the S1 on my 8800GT using only the things provided by the standard S1 package tonight. I'll let you know how it works out.

However i have seen quite a number of (user) reviews stating that the standard heatsinks aren't all to great. So i will be using them as a temporary solution till i can get my hands on the zalman 8800 heatsinks.

Installed a S1 on my 8800 GT today, I removed the black plastic and didn't use the Ram sinks provided, I used some copper Enzotech BCC9 instead.
My case has limited airflow so I mounted a D12SL-12 @ 6V (900 rpm) on the S1 using zip ties.

These were the temp with the stock cooler.
Idle: 60c
Load: 99c

With the S1
Idle: 38c
Load: 52c

I have a turbo module on order but given the results with the 120mm I think I am going to stick with the D12SL-12.

So i just installed the S1 package. Cleaned up my card after removing the stock cooler and put on the heatsinks. My main airflow in my P180 goes in from the front and then goes up to the CPU and out the back.
I don't use the middle HDD bay so my intake is at the front of the case and little air gets pushed over the now totally passively cooled 8800GT.

Temperature differences:

Idle: 55C (with duct) 58C (normal stock, no duct) and now 54C (with S1 passive)
Load: 85C (with duct) 89C (normal stock, no duct) and now 78C (with S1 passive)

Idle temperatures were taken after first gaming for a bit and then leaving the system alone for an hour or so. All temperatures read by Everest Ultimate.

I could probably bring down temperatures dramatically if i put the HDD bay back in and mount a fan at the end of it, or mount a fan on top of the S1. However, these temperatures seem fine to me, so i probably won't be doing so unless something strange happens.

Temperatures where of course all at the most silent setting. when ramping up the fans temperatures drop quite a bit. Exactly 10C for those interested.[quote]

I was also think about doing the same thing. Getting an S1 with Enzotech BCC9 ramsinks.

How are you cooling the VRMs? Did you stick More Enzotech BCC9s on them?

Unfortunately for me, getting 2 kits of enzotech + S1 = identical price to HR 03 GT. If the performance isn't superior to the HR 03 GT, i think I will go with the HR 03 GT.

How are you finding those stock ramsinks? Do they stick ok or do they keep falling off during the installation?

I'm hoping they revised the thermal tape a little so I can cheap out a bit.

Ramsinks are sticking on there and kept on there so far. From what i read they will do as long as you clean the surface of the memory with some alcohol (not the booze kind ).

I put them on, pressed hard for a bit and they stuck well. They ramsinks did not once fall off during the whole installation. The thermal tape looked awfully cheap and thin though, but then again, so does superglue.

I'll be taking the card out in about a day to see how well they're still sticking on then.

Maybe they are thinking the less the tape, the more contact it'll make with the actual metal?? i dunno

I look forward to your results!

I didn't put anything on the VRMs, I emailed Arctic Cooling and they assured me it was fine not to have any heatsinks on them, also when I removed the stock cooler I noticed the thermal pads on the VRMS were like new and barely showed any sign of compression or setting. I was even able to remove them in one piece without leaving any marks (Unlike the memory chips) so I figured the heat they produce must be minimal.

It'd be interesting to use a temp gun on those vrm chips to see if AC is telling the truth .. unfortunately I don't own one..


but S1 + BCC9.. that is definitely doable and cheap!

That guy did it, but keep in mind these results are for an overclocked 8800 GT in a watercooled system.

anyone know where an extended crossfire bridge connector can be purchased, I'm getting a pair of 3870's and S1's and want to be able to crossfire straight away!

thanks

I took out the 8800GT just now and checked the standard S1 supplied ramsinks. They're still on, but you can easily knock them off. So if you're going to travel with your case, get either some better thermal tape on them, do the drops of glue + artic silver technique or buy better ramsinks.

Next week I'll be getting my zalman sinks for it, i'll let you guys know how those work out in comparison.

wow.. looks like those enzotech/zalman sinks are a must then lol..

thx for sharing that bit of info!

i dont think anyone has tested any aftermarket heatsink besides zalman ones.

everything else is just a random forum guess

there are no official heatsinks for the vrm on the 3870. those 10 dollar for 4 from frozencpu look promising.... if they fit and you dont waste your money

I think it's a waste of money to buy aftermarket sinks. The sinks that come with the S1 are great. The real problem is they are not very sticky.

I used them on my x1800xt and they stayed on for 2 months. It's all about applying them correctly and having patience. Thin = good because thermal tape is a fairly poor conductor of heat compared to metal. But look at the top of the RAM chips, they are plastic... lol.

Use the Arctic silver + superglue, seriously. Why waste money or more heatsinks if they work good the first time. Or use thermal adhesive. Or buy thermal tape.

As for the VRMs, I solved that problem by using the stock heatsink and using a low speed fan to keep it quiet.