Hehehe, i bet youve been reading some watercooling forums somewhere else...
1. You dont HAVE to mount it in the lower front, many people here have very effectively mounted it on the rear with exhaust air going over it. Also in many setups you will see the rad at the top of the case where the cd-drives go. That also works very well for them even though theory says hot air rises so air above the case is often a little warmer.
2. Not really, you also do not have to have pump -> rad -> waterblock, in theory this will only gain you about 0.1-0.3 degrees C temperature wise because the water is not heated up by the pump by more than 0.1 degrees c. firstly. because the water is traveling so fast, secondly because the pump would have to be VERY hot to transfer a significant amount of heat into the water, this was confirmed by one of watercoolings most senior figure "Cathar" famous for his very scientific testing approaches and waterblock designs which have been bought by dangerden! (the cascade and white water block is his design)
3. Yeah dont even think of getting smaler than 1/2" or you will change in the future.
4. Yeah thats ideal to prevent the dead spot where the motor mechanism is on fans. Provides better cooling by a good 1-2 degrees
5. Erm, only hardcore overclockers that need the very best temperatures say this. I run with a T and have had an elbow in my loop before and have one currently in there, i believe that the 1-2 degrees i may gain from not having a T is not justified because not having T's or L's can make your watercooling setup very messy with excess tube, also it isnt justified for me, as when you have full load temperatures of 40 degrees C on a fully silent setup... Overclocked! i dont need that extra 1-2 degrees and will happily substitute the extra cooling for neatness.
6. Ive always prefered low restriction waterblocks although alot of the new blocks for maximum cooling temperatures have impingement nozzles. I personally am against this as to make it work you need a pump with a very high head/pressure like at least an eheim 1250. I dont want a 1250 because theyre quite big, and vibrate a LOT more than i could handle!
7. Yeah eheim 1048 is the most reliable/reputable among watercoolers, plenty enough power!
Thats my current setup, im going to re-do it soon so it looks like my old setup below.
My old setup, as you can see it looks a lot tidyer. Also note Pump -> Waterblock -> Rad. Also note, one elbow and one T.