I'm a complete newbie when it comes to water cooling, so I've been reading everything I can find on the subject.
Good place to start... If you haven't found them yet, I would suggest the articles by 'BillA' over on Pro-Cooling and Overclockers. A great deal of my information has come from there, and the various watercooling threads on Pro-Cooling.
I have a tentative design for a quiet water cooled system, and I'd like comments/ suggestion/whatever.
2. Enlarge the 120mm intake in the MB chamber and put a tall radiator just inside that intake. The radiator will be a single-pass design. Do some cutting and drilling in the front bezel to let more air into the intake.
Seems reasonable, the single pass rad is a good idea for lower water flow resistance, and possibly more flexibility in arranging airflows. However remember that the number of SP rads is very small compared to the number of DP rads, so you may find yourself limited as to the sizes you can choose from. FWIW, I reccomend the 2-342 as nicely sized for 2 x 120mm's - it is a little wider, but a perfect length.
3. Use a pair of 120mm L1A or Papst fans to suck air through that radiator into the MB chamber. Use a shroud to space the fans away from the radiator. Run fans at lowest speed that will still work for cooling.
All good ideas. Note that you should use 38mm thick fans to get maximum suction pressure, and space them at least 1" off the rad face. Also check the PQ curves on any prospective fans and make sure they have good static pressure, and maintain a good flow volume as resistance increases. A reasonable working Assumption is that a good fan will deliver about 50% of its free air rated CFM when sucking through a rad.
4. Block the side 92mm intake in the MB chamber and the small vent holes at the rear of that chamber to force all air outlet through the drive chamber.
Good for ensuring airflow through the case, but not good for cooling any hot components on the mobo - essentially this will be putting the mobo in a stagnant air pocket... I would reccomend giving at least some exhaust airflow over the mobo.
6. Above the PSU, install a 2-271 radiator (see Leaky Car) with a shroud to adapt it to the pair of 92mm outlet vents in the rear of the drive chamber (where the 3.5" bays used to be.) NO FAN ON THIS RADIATOR. The airflow through this radiator will be due to overpressuring the case with the 2x120mm intake and only an 80mm output fan on the Seasonic.
This is probably not the best idea... You will be adding a great deal of airflow resistance, considerable water flow resistance, and not gain much in terms of cooling, in fact I wouldn's be suprised to find it a net loss!
Bear in mind that the CPU will only increase the temp of the water going through it by about a degree or less.
You might get some additional cooling of the overall temp by going through the second rad, but I doubt it would be very much. However you will have added a great deal of restriction to the airflow, giving you LESS flow through both rads than you might have gotten from the single rad up front. Further, you will be restricting the water flow by adding two manifolds plus the radiator itself (which looks to be a very restrictive unit - each side appears to be dual pass, with one side only having 5 tubes, and the other having 7 judging from the picture... Assume 1/2 that count is used for each pass, and you have serious flow restriction)
I would reccomend getting rid of the second rad entirely. Instead sort the secondary coolers (all of those devices are either less heat sensitive than the CPU and/or need less cooling BTW) into 2 groups w/ approx equal flow restrictions and route an output of the WW to each group. Let each group dump into the res w/ a seperate inlet. This will give max flow through all components, and give the optimal cooling. On the airflow side, try to split the flow so that about half the air goes out each chamber.
7. Put the pump and reservoir in the drive chamber.
Reasonable. The Ehiem 1250 should give plenty of volume for this setup. If you want a different pump, look for head pressure more than volume.
Set up the water cooling loop to look like this:
CPU (White Water block)
| | (2 x 1/2"ID)
| (Biggest hose you can make fit!)
It is also best to arrange the plumbing so that the water flows upwards from the pump to the res as much as you can. The res should ideally be the highest point in the loop. This will minimize trapped air in the system (Which is deadly to it's cooling ability) and make getting rid of it as easy as possible.
The White Water block has a single inlet and two outlets. Most people seem to use a Y connector to combine the two outlets, but the 2-271 radiator has two inlets and a single outlet, so I want to use that as my "Y connector." The 2-271 is a bit of an unknown quantity. I figure it must be at least a double-pass radiator, and I don't know how much flow restriction it imposes. The White Water block likes a lot of flow.
As I mentioned above, this looks like a very restrictive rad for water flow. It *might* also be hard to come by - the application is for a few Ford / Mercury cars of late 60's vintage. Leakycar shows it, but the website I use for cross references doesn't show it, and when I try to look it up by application I keep getting the wrong core.
If you really want to, you might try splitting the flow further among the secondary blocks so that they are in parallel rather than in series. (Remember that to a first approximation plumbing works much like wiring, flow resistance goes up in series, down in parallel)
Since most of the smaller water blocks for GPUs, NB, etc. tend to have 3/8" barbs and need to fit in tighter areas, I thought that using a manifold to split the loop into parallel 3/8"ID lines for the GPU, NB, and disks (and maybe a SB and/or rectifier loop) will give me a little more flexibility for positioning tubing without restricting water flow. Unless the splitter and combiner manifolds create too much restriction. Unknown territory here.
Reasonable again, but probably no real need to go to extremes.
I'm not sure about cooling the vidram, SB, and rectifiers. With a pair of 120mm fans blowing (slowly) across that MB, maybe I could just stick heat sinks on everything that gets hot and be happy with it. I'm planning on using an Asus A7N8X Deluxe MB and an ATI All-In-Wonder 9800 Pro.
Assuming you have halfway decent airflow in the mobo chamber, you shouldn't need extra cooling on anything you wouldn't worry about in an AC system. Experimentation will be needed. If you do need more water cooling, get a copper plate the appropriate size, and solder a length of copper tubing to it. WB's made that way will be enough to cool just about anything except the CPU. (It is how I'm making my drive blocks btw)
[/quote]I have absolutely no metalworking skills, other than soldering plumbing together. I'm planning on using commercial water blocks for the CPU, NB, and GPU and soldering together a "plumbers delight" setup for a pair of hard drives in a sound isolation box. The hard drive box will sit at the bottom of the 5.25" drive bays in the drive chamber.[/quote]
Not a bad plan, however I would advise that you look closely at what each block is made from, and avoid the dreaded 'mixing of metals' problem - since you are going to be using a copper / brass rad, I wouldn't allow any aluminum parts in the system. Alot of the commercial blocks are made out of aluminum because it's easier to machine and less expensive, but they won't play nicely with copper in the long term.
So what do you think? Will I need some huge wombat of a pump to push the water through all of these things? Is the manifold idea a good plan? How about that second radiator acting as an "intercooler" of sorts? Has the government secretly been slipping hallucinogens into my drinking water?
Mixed bag; Not if you pick a pump w/ a good head pressure rating; no; definitely no; perhaps, send me a sample for testing
[/quote]Thanks for reading,
Scott The Long Winded[/quote]
Gooserider The Even Longer Winded