Hi guys (and girls),
I wanted to write these pictorials/tutorials to help out users considering modding their PSUs. I wrote a small general write-up in the PSU modding sticky
and after the nice feedback by Ralf Hutter, I decided to write a series of posts explaining fan swaps on different PSUs. I will be writing three posts total. The modding and picture taking happened a bit on-the-fly in this first case, but the two upcoming posts will be in detail.
The first one is this post, dealing with swapping a Panaflo 80L1A to a HEC 300W PSU, model HEC300ARPT/F. The HEC is very similar to the "older" Fortrons considering their heatsinks, effieciency and general component layout. A very good candidate for modding.
The two other posts will deal with:
- Modding a HEC 300W PSU (different model, this one is HEC300LRPTF) with also a Panaflo, but instead of simple swap using the readily available connector, I'll go through some basic things: soldering, wiring to fixed voltage, heatshrink etc...
- Modding an Antec Neopower 480W with an undecided fan and adding an T-Balancer analog sensor to the heatsink(s). The fan will be connected to the T-Balancer. So that will also explain what to do with those unused fan headers inside the PSU.
Your thoughts on these posts are more than welcome, both good and bad. But, lets get the story started!
The PSU I modded is from a friend's soon-to-be-ready HTPC. He wanted it to be quiet, so he turned to me. I'm somewhat known with my friends for my fan and silent PC fetish... I advised him to get the HEC, because they are good PSUs and also cheap. The 300W models can be bought in Europe for even under 30€.The unsuspecting victim
Before opening up the PSU you of course have to be sure it's totally discharged. I did not have to worry about this, because the PSU was taken unused from a wrapped retail packet. Read the PSU modding sticky
for advice on how to drain a PSU.
The original fan in the PSU is most likely just rebranded by HEC. Not sure about the manufacturer, my guess is Globe. The model is FD128020HS, current draw 0,15A. Googling did not yield any results. The fan is only 20mm thick and the "HS" would let me think it is a high speed sleeve bearing fan. I can only guess how much airflow it actually moves, but probably 30-35CFM should be the maximum. The replacement fan 80L1A moves 25CFM @ 12V. So it's a good choice for replacement and shouldn't lower the airflow too much.The PSU opened. Nice looking heatsinks and overally good looking job at the manufacturer's factory.
Here you can see how the original fan is connected using a two pin connector. The fan has no tacho signal, only operating voltage and ground are used. The two pin header is quite common in PSUs, Enermax is one PSU which has this same connector in some models.
I cut the the wires near the original fan's hub. Because of the handy Amphenol connector in the Panaflo, the original wires can be just pushed in place in to the Panaflo's connecotr.. The PSU fan wires are a bit thicker than the original wires in the Panaflo, but they can be squeezed in place and provide a secure assembly. If I had used a fan like the original, that had wires soldered in to the hub, I simply could have done some soldering and soldered the two wires to the new fan.
By connecting the new fan to the old header the new fan will also be temperature controlled by the PSU. So for the temperature control to work in any PSU you don't need the RPM signal. It is only a monitoring signal, NOT a control signal.
After the new fan is ready, it's time to think about the mounting. I chose to use some E.A.R. F-344 fan mounts in this case. They help in eliminating any vibration caused by the fan. I pulled two mounts through the lower holes in the PSU casing, inserted the fan in place and pulled the mounts through the fan. I did it this way, because the replacement fan was 5mm thicker than the original and the PCB was VERY close to the fan. So there wasn't really too much work space. After the two lower mounts were in place, I secured the two upper mounts in place.
Here is the finished product! Time to plug it in and test it. Although the picture doesn't show it, it is spinning