Request AX860i 6-pin connector pin out diagram

[canoosa]

Greetings Everyone,

Am building a Music Server. Have Corsair's excellent AX860i to power the mobo.
However, require the drives (SSD, HD, Optical) to bypass the AX860i and connect to an ultra-low ripple 5V DC psu in order to effect as (electronically) quiet a signal as possible during playback of files.
To achieve this, need to identify the wires in the Corsair 6-pin connector in order to connect properly the single POS., single NEG., and single GROUND wires that lead into the 5V DC psu.
I've searched the web for the 6-pin connector pin out diagram for the i-series of Corsair psu's (to the best of my ability), but to no avail.

Does anyone have, or can direct me to, such a diagram?

Regards,
canoosa

[CA_Steve]

Welcome to SPCR.

I came across this thread at Overclock.net. Your PSU is listed...but as it's not provided by the mfgr, treat it with caution.

I have three concerns:
- Unless your HDD and ODD are external drives, they may need 12V to operate. Don't know about the SSD.
- Why do you need a 850W PSU for a music server?
- There's no benefit to driving digital components as these with a different supply. Worry about the DAC/analog circuitry.

[canoosa]

Thanks for the link to Overclock.net!!!!!!!!!

As to your welcome concerns:
1) all the drives are 5V
2) chose the AX860i because it has the lowest ripple spec., which ripple decreases with load (to a probable, but unspecified limit); given that I can expect a MAX load on the psu of ~ 250W, there is lots of headroom, no fan, and very little ripple - I'm guessing it'll get down to 5V rms.
3) electrically there is no benefit, true; sonically, for best-quality playback, the less white noise the better; the 5V DC psu has a ripple spec. of 0.5V rms, orders of magnitude better.

Will I hear the difference? Don't know yet!

Thanks for your help/concern.

canoosa

[canoosa]

For some reason my previous answer to your very helpful post was not listed. Just wanted to let you know that I do appreciate your reply and welcomed the concerns - to which I also replied. Don't know if this one will make it or not; guess it's kinda obvious I'm not active on forums
Anyway, thank's again for answering my question.

Best Regards,

canoosa

[CA_Steve]

The first few posts are moderated and don't immediately appear.

I don't know what other components are in your system, but if it's a desktop cpu/mobo, SSD, couple of hard drives, and ODD, it'll idle at under 50W and when serving music it'll use maybe 60W

I think you are trying to solve a problem that doesn't exist. But, have fun with the experiment.

[QUIET!]

I think that is pessimistic, I've put together a quad core eight thread Xeon with 32gb ram, SSD, HDD and ODD (and an appropriately sized PSU) and got something like 23 watt idle (by the measurement of my kill-a-watt and Cyberpower UPS).

Playing music should be less than 30 watts.

A NUC or similar will do better by a large margin.

I think I saw an article about filtered power for SSDs and it did seem like there was an improvement in jitter or something but instead of filtering, I think the best way to clean up the power is to get rid of the HDD and ODD and choose your SSD for cool running and low power, that will reduce the load on your PSU and remove the transient peaks due to moving parts in the HDD/ODD.

Oh, my appropriately sized PSU was a NOS Dell PSU, 80+ gold 230 watts, less than $20.

[canoosa]

To be sure, I know I'm going overboard.......but I've always overbuilt whatever I'm doing, just of my way of doing things.

It's just that I'm taking into consideration the aggregate of ALL the little things, and although the Corsair costs more than a more appropriate-sized unit, the difference was worth the decrease in ripple - for me

The system looks like this:
dedicated 20A line (with Hubbel Hospital outlet), APC SMC-1000, Balanced Transformer ( 8 inputs, 16A, hospital grade sockets), Music Server - SuperMicro X10SLH-F, Intel Xeon E3-1271 v3, Windows 2012 running Audio Optimizer, JRMC, Lynx AES16e with AES D-Sub out - Antelope Zodiac Gold, XLR-terminated cables (homemade, OHNO copper, cryod), Focal SM9's (atop home-made stands, 230 lbs. with speakers); virtually all files are ripped cd's, upsampled to 176.4 via JRMC.
The mobo, case, soundcard, internal (and external) cabling, are all treated as appropriate with emi/rfi absorption material (to counter microwaves), AVM paint, shielding paint, copper mesh, mu-metal (the latter two to counter low freqs), ni/cu/co tape, cu tape, etc.
Admittedly, some of this is downright esoteric, sufficiently so to elicit side-to-side head-shaking; however, it's ALL the little things TOGETHER that make a BIG difference. For instance, one would be astonished hearing the result of only this: 2mm of emi absorber (3M AB7050) inside the door of the electrical panel - the digital "edge" of the music had gone!! That's not to say that more won't be removed, but if we (or anybody) had stopped with that as the only "tweak", the result would be worth the cost, hands down.

Once we get the new system operational, will try our kill-a-watt also to see the result when there's full demand placed on the entire unit.

Cheers!

[CA_Steve]

Thanks for supporting the economy.

Have fun.

[Quinnbeast]

You're using Focal SM9s? I assume it's a detached property?

[canoosa]

Good Morning,
If what you mean regarding property is real estate, then "detached" is an understatement: have more grizzly and cougar for neighbours than people!

Am still waiting for a reply from Corsair - am presuming that none will be forthcoming, probably because there's a "proprietary" aspect to such info, consequently am opting for 6" 4 pin Molex to SATA Power cable adapter - very simple, more elegant fix.

Cheers

[QUIET!]

I'm assuming that the PSU is modular and the PSU side of the cable is what you are looking for.

If that is the case, just get a volt meter and continuity test the modular cable. You can use the ATX12v standard to get the motherboard side of the connector and map that to the PSU side.

If you are concerned that your modular cables are wired correctly, there are inexpensive PSU testers that will let you know. I have one by Coolermaster I think. It was around $20.00 and well worth it.

[canoosa]

Thanks for the good ideas & help !

[quest_for_silence]

Am still waiting for a reply from Corsair - am presuming that none will be forthcoming

Ask your question to mr. Jon Gerow, aka JonnyGURU, on his forum: set aside it's a specialized forum, he also works for Corsair, so I guess he can help you, in one way or another.

[canoosa]

Good Morning,

That's very interesting.....just goes to show: it's not what you know but who you know - sad, but true.
Thank you kindly for the help!!
Suddenly, I get the feeling I'm armed to the teeth with a wealth of info, and just from this community, too.

Cheers

[QUIET!]

Just wait until we tell you about double blind A-B testing.

[quest_for_silence]

Just wait until we tell you about double blind A-B testing.

What?

[canoosa]

Am still waiting for a reply from Corsair - am presuming that none will be forthcoming

Ask your question to mr. Jon Gerow, aka JonnyGURU, on his forum: set aside it's a specialized forum, he also works for Corsair, so I guess he can help you, in one way or another.

So, it's official now: the link to overclocknet.com (provided by ca_steve) that showed the pin out diagram for the Corsair AX...i series has been confirmed by jonnyguru as being CORRECT -

http://www.overclock.net/t/1420796/repo ... y-pin-outs

"They are correct. That is the "Type 3" pin out. The CX-M, CS-M, RM, HX Silver and Gold, HXi, AX Platinum and AXi all use this same pinout."

.....and that makes it official! Not that there would have been any doubt, it's just helpful to be able to point out to someone else that the diagram has been approved.

Thank you one and all for your help.

[CA_Steve]

Glad it worked out.