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 Post subject: Thinking of putting together a quiet system (specs inside)
PostPosted: Fri Jun 04, 2004 11:43 pm 
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How do you do! I've been thinking about putting together a quiet system. Here are the parts I have chosen.
  • Antec Sonata w/Antec TruePower 380S power supply
  • LG 52x32x52 + 16X DVD COMBO OEM (Black)
  • Intel Pentium 4 2.8 GHz 800-MHz FSB
  • Zalman CNPS7000-AlCu
  • Samsung floppy drive (Black)
  • Samsung SP0802N 80GB 7200 2MB
  • Asus P4S800D-E Deluxe
  • 2 x Kingston 256 MB DDR400/PC3200
  • Forsa FX5200 128MB DDR
  • Round floppy and IDE cables
Will this be reasonably quiet? I would like some feedback before I spend my money. (It would cost me about 1,141 CAD plus 14% sales taxes.) I would prefer not to do anything that would void the warranties on the above products. This would rule out modding or using CPU coolers that are heavier than 450 g, I think. (You could say that I am a cautious, conservative user.) Thank you.


Last edited by Mr. Orbiter-5 on Sat Jun 05, 2004 11:32 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 05, 2004 12:20 am 
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You haven't mentioned which PSU you're getting. Those are usually big noise sources. The rest of your parts list looks very good indeed.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 05, 2004 4:56 am 
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Mr. Orbiter-5 - WELCOME TO SPCR!!!

Everything looks good to me too. Choose the right PSU (from the SPCR Recommended PSU's list), perhaps do a little modding to the air intake vents on the Sonata sub-bezel and you should be good-to-go.

My own personal preference is for flat ribbon cables, folded neatly out of the way, since the rounded IDE cables are out of spec and introduce the possibility of data corruption. But that's just my obsessiveness talking, do whatever makes you feel comfortable.

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 Post subject: Power supply, modding, and managing flat IDE cables
PostPosted: Sat Jun 05, 2004 8:01 am 
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Joined: Fri Jun 04, 2004 10:37 pm
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Ralf Hutter wrote:
Mr. Orbiter-5 - WELCOME TO SPCR!!!

Everything looks good to me too. Choose the right PSU (from the SPCR Recommended PSU's list), perhaps do a little modding to the air intake vents on the Sonata sub-bezel and you should be good-to-go.

My own personal preference is for flat ribbon cables, folded neatly out of the way, since the rounded IDE cables are out of spec and introduce the possibility of data corruption. But that's just my obsessiveness talking, do whatever makes you feel comfortable.

Thank you for the warm welcome, Ralf. The PSU I had decided on using was the one that came with the Sonata, the TruePower 380S. Like I said earlier, I didn't want to do anything that may void the warranties. This included altering any components (e.g., removing the PSU that came with the Sonata, modding the Sonata). Moreover, I am unalterably uncomfortable with and therefore totally uninterested in modding, no matter what the benefits may be. I would rather not mod or otherwise alter anything, if you don't mind.

I have another question. What can I do to keep flat IDE cables out of the way of airflow? I hope it does not involve glue or something like it. (Adhesive pads, however, are OK.) I am very clumsy with glue and would prefer not to make a mess in my PC. (I've made enough messes with construction paper in my school days, anyway!)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 05, 2004 9:51 am 
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I do not believe removing the stock PSU would void your warrenty. Considering that some places might even sell the case without the PSU.

Finally the art of "Cable-Gami" as some like to toss around here is really just simply folding the flat IDE cables properly. Check out the following posts:

http://forums.silentpcreview.com/viewtopic.php?t=6127

http://forums.silentpcreview.com/viewtopic.php?t=2439

Folding the cable is not hard, but does take some patience.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 05, 2004 10:17 am 
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Personally, if no modding is desired, then I'd say go with one of the conservatively colored Chenbro Gaming Bomb cases and combine it with a Seasonic Rev.03 Super Silencer or Enermax Noistaker series PSU (300W is fine but you might a bit more for possible additions later...).

This will be quieter and a LOT cooler than the Sonata w/stock PSU. IMO, the stock Sonata does not provide good enough front intake airflow to keep the system adequately cool without the fans all ramping up.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 05, 2004 1:02 pm 
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Location: Houston, Texas
I would recommend going with Samsung optical drives, perhaps a black Samsung 52X/32X/52X combo. They're a bit slow to access and autorun your CDs but are quieter than other drives in my experience, including Lite-On drives. I have no experience with LG drives, unfortunately.

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 Post subject: Re: Fortron/Source (FSP) FSP530-60GNA and "quiet"
PostPosted: Sat Jun 05, 2004 10:12 pm 
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MikeC wrote:
Personally, if no modding is desired, then I'd say go with one of the conservatively colored Chenbro Gaming Bomb cases and combine it with a Seasonic Rev.03 Super Silencer or Enermax Noistaker series PSU (300W is fine but you might a bit more for possible additions later...).

This will be quieter and a LOT cooler than the Sonata w/stock PSU. IMO, the stock Sonata does not provide good enough front intake airflow to keep the system adequately cool without the fans all ramping up.


Have you had any experience with the Fortron/Source (FSP) FSP530-60GNA 530-W PSU, Mike? I was thinking about this PSU in case I decided to splurge on a more powerful one.

On another note, perhaps you can help settle an argument between an acquaintance and me. This acquaintance of mine was convinced that he needed to have a "quiet" PC case in order to have a truly quiet PC. I was convinced that besides minimizing the openings of a case or using sound-insulating foam, there was nothing else that could be done to manufacture a more soundproof case. Would I have to get a case that is marketed as being quiet in order to build a quiet PC, or are these so-called quiet cases unnecessary? What are the factors for a case, any case, that dictate how well it will insulate sound?

This acquaintance of mine ended up buying a Lian Li PC-6070, an aluminum case lined with sound-insulating foam. I have read several strong objections to aluminum cases in these forums. Are they really that counterproductive to building a quiet PC? (Please excuse my inexperience. :oops: )


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 Post subject: Managing the PSU's cables
PostPosted: Sat Jun 05, 2004 10:23 pm 
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Sardaan wrote:
I do not believe removing the stock PSU would void your warrenty. Considering that some places might even sell the case without the PSU.

Finally the art of "Cable-Gami" as some like to toss around here is really just simply folding the flat IDE cables properly.

Folding the cable is not hard, but does take some patience.


Thanks for the links. Unfortunately for me, I forgot to ask about managing the PSU's cables. :oops: Although I'm sure I can use some zip-ties to make them neater, I have no idea how to keep them to one side of the case. Will keeping these cables to the side improve airflow?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 05, 2004 10:37 pm 
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The things to look for in a case:

1. Good intake. You can't cool the stuff inside if you can't get air in. Look for open, unrestricted bezels. The Sonata is "ok" in this regard, the Chenbro is better. I think the Fong-Kia 330 os about the best I've seen. (there's a review of it in the cases section on the front page)

2. Good exhaust. The counterpoint to intake. 120mm fans are very popular lately, and all three of the above mentioned cases have them for exhaust, but a pair of 80mm fan mounts works well also.

3. "Sturdiness". Not exactly the right word for it, but close enough. What you want is a case who's side panels won't vibrate when the stuff inside the case vibrates. (Resonance is the technical word for it) That's the problem with most aluminum cases. Aluminum is used to make cases lighter, and for that reason their side panels are usually very thin, which makes them more prone to resonating. Steel cases have stronger, thicker, and heavier sides (generally) which makes resonance less likely. Adding the sound foam to the Lian-Li does the same thing, only more expensively. (Why pay extra to make an aluminum case not resonate when I steel one won't for free?)


So, to answer your question: No, there's no need to buy a case that's specifically sold as "quiet", so long as you look for the important features. Some "quiet" cases, like the sonata, include other minor features that help in the quieting, like rubber bushing for the HDD's, but their effect can be easily duplicated in a non-"quiet" case.

Hope that helps. If anything it opens up your case choices. Which I suppose is either a good or bad thing, depending on how much more time you wanted to spend shopping for cases. :lol:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 05, 2004 11:24 pm 
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Rusty075 wrote:
The things to look for in a case:

...

Thanks for your advice, Rusty. The information you posted has raised some new questions I would like to ask you, if you do not mind.
  1. Where is the bezel? If it's where I think it is, would an open, unrestricted bezel resemble the mesh screens that prevent bugs from passing through windows? Wouldn't sound leak out of such an opening? (More likely, I have misunderstood you.)
  2. Is there anything I can do at a store to test an empty case for sturdiness?
  3. Would a steel case made with thicker steel resonate less than other steel cases would? I just saw a Thermaltake case that the company claims is made with 1-mm thick steel.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 08, 2004 4:43 pm 
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Location: Houston, Texas
I have just bought the Fortron 350 to replace the stock PSU in my Aopen case. It is MUCH quieter and perhaps the quietest PSU I have.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 10, 2004 10:46 am 
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Location: California, US
I'm also kinda new to silent computing, but to answer your question, the bezel is the front face of a computer. And yes, a really open bezel is one that is similar to a wire mesh to keep dust out. An open and unrestricted bezel can leak noise out, but if your internal components are relatively quiet, then there's not much noise to leak out anyways.

The Antec P160 has a nice open bezel that leaks some noise. The case is really nice, and is aluminium, which is a plus IMO (cuz I move my computer several times a year). The scary thing about the P160 is its larger size and price tag. If it was cheaper I'd get it.

I'm also building a new computer, and this thread has been very helpful. But its also put some doubt in my mind of whether I should stick with the Sonata case for my new computer :?. What modding are you suggesting for the Sonata Ralf? If its easy, I might be interested in trying it.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 10, 2004 12:13 pm 
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stromgald wrote:
I'm also building a new computer, and this thread has been very helpful. But its also put some doubt in my mind of whether I should stick with the Sonata case for my new computer :?. What modding are you suggesting for the Sonata Ralf? If its easy, I might be interested in trying it.


I wouldn't use the Sonata, there's better stuff for cheaper.

I'd use the Antec SLK3700BQE or Evercase 4252 if you want cases that you either wouldn't have to mod, or mod very little.

I'd look at the Antec SLK3700AMB or the Compucase 6A19 if you're looking for a case that will be wonderful if you cut out the fan grills.

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Music Server: Intel DH77EB + i3-3220, 2xSamsung 2TB F4, Pico PSU, Fractal Define Mini, 2xScythe Fans @250 rpm.


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