aluminum briefcase pc
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aluminum briefcase pc
Heya, haven't posted anything in a while, but I thought I should show my latest project anyway.
I needed a PC for travelling, and I needed a PC to connect to the TV to show movies, and of course normal cases aren't pretty (ymmv) and not very practical for travelling, so I decided to simply put a PC in a briefcase.
It's modded a bit, so it's probably "silent" although very very far from my normal semi-passive-watercooled rig. It's made from leftover parts (yes, I have a ton of more or less silent fans laying around from previous experiments, Mike knows what I'm talking about) and the budget were very low.
click for more images and descriptions
/Mirar
I needed a PC for travelling, and I needed a PC to connect to the TV to show movies, and of course normal cases aren't pretty (ymmv) and not very practical for travelling, so I decided to simply put a PC in a briefcase.
It's modded a bit, so it's probably "silent" although very very far from my normal semi-passive-watercooled rig. It's made from leftover parts (yes, I have a ton of more or less silent fans laying around from previous experiments, Mike knows what I'm talking about) and the budget were very low.
click for more images and descriptions
/Mirar
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Well, two reasons. This thing cost me less then $150 in hardware (the motherboard is "demo", the PSU is the cheapest, and except the CPU and the $15 case I had it all already as leftovers from silencing projects),flyingsherpa wrote:neat project, but why not just use a laptop? is it because of the TV-out requirement?
and another important thing is that since it's (also) a media computer disk space is important and I haven't seen any laptop that can chew on a bunch of normal 3.5" HDDs...
But actually I had tried to use the same hardware in a normal miditower, but it was so ugly and loud and heavy I had to do something. (And I couldn't convert it to a laptop.)
And here's for you that's too lazy to click the link above:
/Mirar
I used elastic strings. They are fixed to the case plywood (beneath the black foam seen in the picture above) with cyanoacrylate superglue.
It works well so far. The PSU is fixed with that too.
The superglue needed a really long time before it could be put to stress though, like 12-14 hours. I did a lot of false starts before I understood why... my first experiment was fixating over night, so that one worked well.
It works well so far. The PSU is fixed with that too.
The superglue needed a really long time before it could be put to stress though, like 12-14 hours. I did a lot of false starts before I understood why... my first experiment was fixating over night, so that one worked well.
The heatsink is just top 60°C... it wont harm the elastic. The CPU will be dead from the heat before it harms the plastic.
But you should use elastics from a sewing shop, so it can take more stress and more heat (you can usually wash it in 60°C). Normal rubber bands die quickly, especially when heated.
But you should use elastics from a sewing shop, so it can take more stress and more heat (you can usually wash it in 60°C). Normal rubber bands die quickly, especially when heated.