Here is what I am thinking about:
-Antec SLK3000B
-Antec Phantom 350
-Intel Pentium 4 630 (EMT64, 3.0ghz)
-Intel D915PCML
-1GB Crucial RAM
-SATA Hard Drive (make TBD)
-Plextor CD-RW Drive
-Radeon X300
My only questions concerned the 120mm fan in the 3000B: Should it be good enough or do you think it should be replaced? If so, with what? Also, would a second, front mounted fan be recommend with this setup?
Thanks.
SLK3000B System Thoughts
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NeilBlanchard
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Hello:
You don't mention the CPU HSF?
The stock Antec 3-speed fan *may* be quiet enough for you, but it is not the quietest fan you could use. A Yate Loon medium speed (like the Mad Dog at CompUSA) undervolted to 5v would be quieter and probably move a bit more air, as well.
As to the front fan, it depends on the brand you choose; and since your PS choice cannot contribute to the air flow (in fact it may require some "additional" air flow!) -- you may well need a front fan. A Samsung is the coolest running SATA that I have seen. The new Seagates are pretty warm, and from what I hear, the Maxtor is also pretty warm. I have no idea about the fluid bearing Western Digital models. I would lean towards having a front fan, and/or blocking one or both of the side door vents -- to increase the air flow over the HD.
IHTH
You don't mention the CPU HSF?
The stock Antec 3-speed fan *may* be quiet enough for you, but it is not the quietest fan you could use. A Yate Loon medium speed (like the Mad Dog at CompUSA) undervolted to 5v would be quieter and probably move a bit more air, as well.
As to the front fan, it depends on the brand you choose; and since your PS choice cannot contribute to the air flow (in fact it may require some "additional" air flow!) -- you may well need a front fan. A Samsung is the coolest running SATA that I have seen. The new Seagates are pretty warm, and from what I hear, the Maxtor is also pretty warm. I have no idea about the fluid bearing Western Digital models. I would lean towards having a front fan, and/or blocking one or both of the side door vents -- to increase the air flow over the HD.
IHTH
Considering the airflow-related problems people have experienced with the Phantom, I would say that the front fan is probably a good idea. A Nexus 120mm or similar running at <7V probably won't add any significant amount of noise.
The TriCool fan included with the SLK300B seems to be considered adequate by most people here when set on "low". However, if you are going to be ordering a fan for the front mounting anyway...
I also use the 3000B, and am currently running two 120mm Panaflo OEM 12L's. I have found that they move more air than most and are just as quiet (running at 6V). Something to do with the blade design, I think.
What processor heatsink are you planning on using?
EDIT: While I was writing this, Neil posted his reply. Sorry if this is a bit redundant now...
EDIT2: Edited for spelling.
The TriCool fan included with the SLK300B seems to be considered adequate by most people here when set on "low". However, if you are going to be ordering a fan for the front mounting anyway...
I also use the 3000B, and am currently running two 120mm Panaflo OEM 12L's. I have found that they move more air than most and are just as quiet (running at 6V). Something to do with the blade design, I think.
What processor heatsink are you planning on using?
EDIT: While I was writing this, Neil posted his reply. Sorry if this is a bit redundant now...
EDIT2: Edited for spelling.
The OEM Panaflo 12Ls looks cool, thanks for the link.OmegaZero wrote:I also use the 3000B, and am currently running two 120mm Panaflo OEM 12L's. I have found that they move more air than most and are just as quiet (running at 6V). Something to do with the blade design, I think.
What processor heatsink are you planning on using?
I have never messed with fan voltages, so I will have to figure out how to set them. Is there a tutorial here on SPR on doing this?
In regards to the HSF, I was going to go with the Intel stock unit initially and than evaluate it once everything was working.
And thanks to everyone for the input.
Cutting out both fan grills is probably a good idea. It decreases resistance; which in turn increases airflow and decreases turbulence-related noise.
Under-volting fans is fairly straightforward; there is a great write-up about it here. I chose to wire my Panaflo OEM's in series, giving them 6V. In order to do this:
1. In total there are four wires; one ground and one power on each of the two fans. Remove three of the four wires from their Molex connectors, leaving only one power wire still seated.
2. Solder the other fan's power wire to the ground wire of the fan with the seated power wire. Seal with shrink tubing or electrical tape.
3. Seat the remaining ground wire in the same Molex connector as the power wire left seated in step 1.
What you will get is the power coming into one of the fans, traveling out through the ground to the other fan's power wire, and then back to the PSU via the second fan's ground wire: 12V / 2 = 6V.
This is fairly easy to do with the OEM's in the SLK3000B - the fan leads are even the right length. One of these days I will get around to posting pictures of my rig in the gallery, but if you'd like a picture of this wiring setup let me know. I can snap a quick one and post it here.
If in the US, you can get the Panaflo OEM 120mm here. The model number is FBK-12G12LH.
Under-volting fans is fairly straightforward; there is a great write-up about it here. I chose to wire my Panaflo OEM's in series, giving them 6V. In order to do this:
1. In total there are four wires; one ground and one power on each of the two fans. Remove three of the four wires from their Molex connectors, leaving only one power wire still seated.
2. Solder the other fan's power wire to the ground wire of the fan with the seated power wire. Seal with shrink tubing or electrical tape.
3. Seat the remaining ground wire in the same Molex connector as the power wire left seated in step 1.
What you will get is the power coming into one of the fans, traveling out through the ground to the other fan's power wire, and then back to the PSU via the second fan's ground wire: 12V / 2 = 6V.
This is fairly easy to do with the OEM's in the SLK3000B - the fan leads are even the right length. One of these days I will get around to posting pictures of my rig in the gallery, but if you'd like a picture of this wiring setup let me know. I can snap a quick one and post it here.
If in the US, you can get the Panaflo OEM 120mm here. The model number is FBK-12G12LH.
As far as the heat sink goes, I think most people here would agree that Intel's stock cooler & fan are very loud. It is definitely worth giving it a try, but I wouldn't plan on keeping it long.
If/when you decide to replace it, I would recommend the Thermalright XP-120. I believe it is the favorite after market heatsink for Socket T motherboards here at SPCR (Zalman units are not listed as being compatible). According to Thermalright's website, there are no known comparability issues between the XP-120 and Socket T boards, except that you will need a retention bracket adapter.
Don't forget to pick a fan for the XP-120 - You'll probably need a 120mm x 120mm x 25mm for this, in order to minimize the disruption of airflow in the case. The Nexus 120mm works well for this, once the corners have been cut...
In the US: XP-120 $43 + Retention Bracket Adapter $5 + Nexus 120mm $18 + approx. $10 shipping = $76
If/when you decide to replace it, I would recommend the Thermalright XP-120. I believe it is the favorite after market heatsink for Socket T motherboards here at SPCR (Zalman units are not listed as being compatible). According to Thermalright's website, there are no known comparability issues between the XP-120 and Socket T boards, except that you will need a retention bracket adapter.
Don't forget to pick a fan for the XP-120 - You'll probably need a 120mm x 120mm x 25mm for this, in order to minimize the disruption of airflow in the case. The Nexus 120mm works well for this, once the corners have been cut...
In the US: XP-120 $43 + Retention Bracket Adapter $5 + Nexus 120mm $18 + approx. $10 shipping = $76
I used to feel that way too, but making the connections yourself is still the easiest way. There are no extra wires and no extra parts, so you'll save on cost and space/clutter. Basically you just cut the connectors off, twist the wires together and cover it with electrical tape. If the fan comes on, you've done it right. Soldering is better, but not necessary. It's not like you're going to be hanging the fan by the wires - they just need to make contact.
There are several decent fan controllers out there (Fan Mate 2, Vantec Nexus, Logisys/Generic) . The only problem you may run into is that those Panaflo OEM fans (if you are going to use them) only come with 4-pin Molex connectors. Most fan controllers work with 3-pin connectors.
There are several decent fan controllers out there (Fan Mate 2, Vantec Nexus, Logisys/Generic) . The only problem you may run into is that those Panaflo OEM fans (if you are going to use them) only come with 4-pin Molex connectors. Most fan controllers work with 3-pin connectors.
Being blatantly pro AMD (why hide it) I would suggest an Athlon 64 939 pin CPU.
Athlon 64's are much cooler than P4's.
1, P4's produce vast amounts of heat.
2, P4's draw more power and therefore the PSU produces more heat.
3, CnC reduces the Athlon 64 clock + Voltage when idle.
Look at the price performance differences for your requirements, then think about how easy it is to cool an A64 + Dual core upgrades are scedulded for June - August.
Andy
Athlon 64's are much cooler than P4's.
1, P4's produce vast amounts of heat.
2, P4's draw more power and therefore the PSU produces more heat.
3, CnC reduces the Athlon 64 clock + Voltage when idle.
Look at the price performance differences for your requirements, then think about how easy it is to cool an A64 + Dual core upgrades are scedulded for June - August.
Andy
