Hi, heres my 3000B with a mix of old and new componets. I will be purchasing a new AMD 64 CPU, Mobo, and possibly a new hard drive within the next few months, but for now these will do. I'm also looking to suspend my current HD and do a little cable management. I just put this together, so I havent done any real temp readings on it yet.


Heres some of the components:

Case: Antec SLK3000B
PSU: Seasonic S12-430
CPU: Intel P4 3.0Ghz
Mobo: Intel D875PBZ
RAM: Geil PC3200 Ultra,2x512,DDR400,CAS 2.0
HSF/Fan: Thermalright XP-120 w/Nexus
Hard Drive: Maxtor 6Y120PO ATA133 120Gb
Graphics: XFX GeForce 6600GT AGP/Zalman VF700-AlCu
Optical: Plextor PX-708A DVD-RW, Lite-On LTR-52246S CD-RW
Case Fans: Yate Loon Blue LED D12SM12's
Other: Sunbeam Rheobus, Sound Blaster Audigy 2 ZS


Edit: Front and rear fans are currently running @7v, Zalman fan on GPU @5v, CPU Fan @12v(it's not hooked
up to the Sunbeam right now, so it won't accidenly get turned off)

Current Recorded Temps: idle/load

CPU Temp: 31C/41C
Case Temp 1: 28C/32C
Case Temp 2: 28C/32C
Hard Drive Temp: 29C/37C(using defrag)
GPU: 47C/54C(has onboard temp monitor)
Ambient: 22C











I have included a diagrahm for those wanting to use the zip-tie method for mounting fans. Very easy to do. Also, don't cut the tails of the zip-ties off too short, or they will come loose.

Yet another SLK3000-B system! A fine choice of case and components! One question, what make/model is that orange fan that everyone seems to be using?

It's the Nexus Real Silent 120mm fan. Jab-tech has them for 15 and change, if your in the U.S.

I think the greek was making an attempt at humor.

EDIT: maybe not - just new member question.

Surely not?!

Hello:



The one in this system is a Nexus, as someone already mentioned -- but it is made by Yate Loon, and there is (at least) one model from Yate Loon that is also orange. The Nexus version runs at 1000RPM, and the Yate Loon version runs at 1350RPM, or so.

Nice setup...very similar to mine.
What kind of temps are you getting with that setup?

Also, did you mount a 90mm fan on the side grill that leads to the CPU?

I haven't done any real testing with temps yet, but i'm getting 34C CPU and 31C case idle temps right now, been in the low 80's here the last couple of days. I haven't mounted a side fan, those holes will only fit an 80mm fan wont they? I did think about flipping the CPU fan to blow out the side tube, because it lines up so well with this Mobo.

I see you used zip ties for you fans can you take a pic of just how it is done please.

Yes and no, I'm new here but not to the quiet computer scene. I just keep seeing this fan and wondered what it was. I've heard of Nexus fans and even own one but I didn't know the orange fan was one.

I don't have a pic right now, but can get one tomorrow... batteries in camera need charged. What you basically do is run one zip-tie through the screw hole in the case and through the both holes in the fan, then place the other one on the end of the first one, then pull them tight. I used the stock antec rubber gromments for the hard drive cage, cut them in half, and placed them in between the fan and the case.

Pics would be nice. The front fan was done the same way?

Yes, I cut out the front grille and lined it with U-channel as well

I see the U-lining doubles up as a 'seal' to fill (most of) the gap caused by the rubber washers. Any suggestions for those who do not lay any lining?

Check out these pictures, they are more descriptive than those in this thread.

You might want to try and run the XP-120 fanless and use the 3000B CPU duct. Temps might actually be better or just slightly higher and that's one less noise source.

looks good , what are those fancy led lit knobs on the front of your case?... also isnt there something i can just buy like rubber fan mounts instead of that zip tie method?

L3thal,
Very nice rig! Did you use the stock Antec TriCool fan for any length of time? If so, how does it compare (on the low-speed setting) to the Yate Loon?

Thanks!

Yeah, I fired it up for a few minutes just to see how it sounded, it was pretty quiet on the low setting, a little louder, and maybe not quite as smooth as the Yate Loon's/Nexus, but not that much. If you are on a budget, I would say keep it, as it's not a bad fan.




That is the Sunbeam rheobus fan controller. I think there is a review on it on this site. The E.A.R grommets won't work on the yate loons, beacuse of the closed corners, and being that they are the brittle, clear plastic, I didn't want to screw them up trying to hack out the corners. I guess you could just put rubber grommets in the case holes and use the regular metal fan screws. I haven't really noticed a big difference anyways, as the Yate Loons don't resonate that much anyways.

System looks great!

Did you switch out the LED's on your rheobus? I'm wanting to change mine out, but haven't found anything that seems like it will work.

How are you going to remove the fans if you're using the ziptie method?

the yateloons have closed corners.

No, I had the fans running @7v in the pic, hence the blue color. I read somewhere that you can just flip them over to get the blue from 0-7v, instead of the red. They are still way too bright IMHO. You could go to http://www.eled.com as they have a good selection of the dual color LED's at decent prices.




Just cut them off, as the zip-ties are inexpensive. It's prolly faster than removing four screws.

nope, I was referring to the use of zipties on fans with closed corners.

How are you going to secure the fans tightly, yet be able to cut the zipties easily when u want to remove the fans?

You can still easily cut them loose, as the zip-ties are just soft nylon. Using scissors, I cut the tails flush with the square "lock", and they usually just come apart, as the first zip-tie has nothing to grip onto. If that don't work, then just use some heavier wire cutters or tin-snips and cut through the "lock"

Wow, that's some nasty cabling. Good luck cleaning it up....

Yes, it is. That picture makes it look much worse than it actually is though. I have since cleaned things up a bit...looks much better now.
I used automotive split-loom tubing for the PSU main cables, cut off the molex adapters on the fans and neatly folded the HD ribbon cable.
Will look even better when I get my new SATA hardrive and new AMD 64 CPU/mobo(no 24-20 pin adapter needed). Was also thinking about
going to a single Plextor SATA DVD-RW drive, as I don't use both drives all that much anyways.

I honestly think they give you too much cabling nowadays. They should give you, say 4 standard Molex plugs, two SATA power plugs, one floppy drive plug, and the ATX plug (with the +12V thing separate). Anything else, you would have to split yourself.

Agreed. I sure wish that Seasonic would make modular power
supplies in the near future. My only complaint about the PS...too many unwanted/messy cables.
I debated on the idea of cutting off the extra plugs that will never get used, but didn't want to run the risk
of damaging and/or voiding the warranty on the new PS
.

Honestly, I'm surprised there aren't more power supplies that take a modular approach to cabling. I have a generic 430W PSU (but now the one I use) that comes with a cable with two standard 4-pin Molex plugs on it, another with two more 4-pin Molex, plus a floppy drive plug, another with the ATX plug, and another with the +12V plug. No SATA, no 6-pin PCI-E cable, nothing like that. There's no way you could possibly pull 430W from those connectors only. I like it.

Too bad the power supply itself is crap.