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I had that same experience with a 60-80MM fan adapater on my thermoengine a while ago as well bobash, the problem is that the 120MM fan spins at a slower RPM (in most cases) than a 80MM fan of less airflow, so that there is less air pressure created by the fan, and when u take into account that the airflow to is pumped out of the fan THEN has to get through a funnel onto the pins where it starts to do the work in cooling down.

What'd I'd advise u to do is to put something like an enermax adjustable 80MM, or a temp sensing fan like the globalwin crystal 80MM, the enermax would probably be good for u cause u could twiddle it to find the optimal cooling temperature for u and crank it for summer (which I'm probably going to have to do) or something like a temp sensing fan that would adjust to the temperature ranges to keep your CPU nice and cool.

With the heatsink swap over, the thermalright slk-800 would be the next step up for your cooling and u could cool it from a panaflow L1A hopefully that'd bring your temps down to something u'd want of course u could always give your MCX 462 to me, I don't mind at all

quokked's point about pressure is likely true. I agree about using a 80mm fan blowing down very close to the HS. A variable or thermistor controlled fan might work. The enermax fan is not very quiet, though.

You could try the Arctic Fan TC-1, which may be an exclusive at SVC -- http://store.yahoo.com/svcompucycle/arcoolarfant.html They gave me a couple samples to try when I was visiting their shop (while at IDF in Sept) and they are impressively quiet. The thermistor is on a ~3.5" lead that can be pried loose from the retaining channel on the fan, and this gives you some flexibility for thermistor placement. It was easy for me to wedge it into fins in many HS.

Unlike the fans in your laptop, the speed changes in this type of fan are more gradual & less noticeable.

The 31cfm claimed for full speed on the Arctic Fan does not seem like an exaggeration, although the 10 dBA at min is probably a stretch. I have the impression it provides more airflow than a Panaflo at 5V and may actually be quieter. To be confirmed soon.

Pricier than the typical Panaflo price in the US, but $7 is still not bad.

The temperature adjustable fan would be a good idea, along those lines I would probably go with the Papst 8412 with the NMT controller (at siliconacoustics). But...
since the fan would be at a low speed when I first turn it on, and my bios needs 2000 rpm on the cpu fan speed to boot, I would have to turn off the bios temp auto shut off feature on my mobo. Something that I would rather not do. (I leave my server on during the day while I am at work.)
So, does a Papst 80mm 2000rpm have enough pressure to blow through the (very closely spaced) pins on a mcx462? Or perhaps something noisier but powerful like a vantec stealth?

re -- the Arctic fan: I take it back, it's not quieter than a Panaflo, but at minimum speed, it is pretty quiet, and it does have about 40-50% more airflow at max speed. (But top speed is difficult to reach unless you have thermal runaway or can position the thermistor right next to the core or embed/epoxy it into the base of the HS. A lot of work...)

The NMT controller is very neat; I have a sample that is schedued to be reviewed soon. It does take a bit of soldering. The fact that you can mate it to any fan is a huge plus. It's easy to add a thin insulated lead so the thermistor can be positioned anywhere.

On the test bench, a Panaflo at 12V + Swiftech MC462A in a 23C ambient keeps a 1600+ paliamino (63W) at under 50C (thermal diode) while running 100% CPU for ~30 mins with Prime95. At idle, it's ~38-40C. Inside a case, you probably have to add close to 10C. Still, I think it is plenty good enough. The Papst has similar airflow and the MCX *should* be better than the MC.

NMT + Papst (or other good quiet 20-25 cfm fan) sounds like it could be a very good solution for you.

another way of doing this bobash is to trick the Mobo that it's reading a higher speed fan, what u probably need to do is to hack up a 3 pin connector and plug a higher RPM fan's output wire into that connector on your motherboard.... but if the CPU fan actually stops well.... you're in a little bit of trouble then but that's how I'd do it