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PostPosted: Sat Dec 09, 2006 11:06 am 
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cmcquistion wrote:
Mike, I'm curious about the heatsink mounting on the Model 11. The PC is using a Zalman 7000AlCu, but this heatsink does not come with an adapter to attach to socket AM2. Based on the photo, it looks like maybe a customized aluminum bracket was made to mount that heatsink on the AM2 mounting holes.

Is this custom or is there somewhere I can buy that? I love Zalman heatsinks, but none of the 7000 or 7700 series are compatible with Socket AM2.


Worry no more :)
http://www.endpcnoise.com/cgi-bin/e/std ... o_AM2.html

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 09, 2006 11:40 am 
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cmcquistion wrote:
Mike, I'm curious about the heatsink mounting on the Model 11. The PC is using a Zalman 7000AlCu, but this heatsink does not come with an adapter to attach to socket AM2. Based on the photo, it looks like maybe a customized aluminum bracket was made to mount that heatsink on the AM2 mounting holes.

Is this custom or is there somewhere I can buy that? I love Zalman heatsinks, but none of the 7000 or 7700 series are compatible with Socket AM2.


I forget where, but I read somewhere about the possibility of using the Thermalright RevB AM2 bracket on the 7000. It has four retention openings at the corners which are the same as those for Socket 478. Since the 7000 retention yoke is designed to fit that kind of bracket it might make a handy-dandy adapter.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 09, 2006 11:55 am 
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NyteOwl wrote:
I forget where, but I read somewhere about the possibility of using the Thermalright RevB AM2 bracket on the 7000. It has four retention openings at the corners which are the same as those for Socket 478. Since the 7000 retention yoke is designed to fit that kind of bracket it might make a handy-dandy adapter.


Read above...

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 09, 2006 12:48 pm 
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rpsgc wrote:
Read above...


I had started my reply before the above and was called away so I didn't see it before I finished mine :)

In any event they are two different solutions to the same problem. Choices are always a good thing. :)

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 09, 2006 2:18 pm 
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rpsgc wrote:
cmcquistion wrote:
Mike, I'm curious about the heatsink mounting on the Model 11. The PC is using a Zalman 7000AlCu, but this heatsink does not come with an adapter to attach to socket AM2. Based on the photo, it looks like maybe a customized aluminum bracket was made to mount that heatsink on the AM2 mounting holes.

Is this custom or is there somewhere I can buy that? I love Zalman heatsinks, but none of the 7000 or 7700 series are compatible with Socket AM2.


Worry no more :)
http://www.endpcnoise.com/cgi-bin/e/std ... o_AM2.html


Thanks for the link. For $13, though, I might just try to fashion my own.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 10, 2006 7:21 am 
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cmcquistion wrote:
Mike, I'm curious about the heatsink mounting on the Model 11. The PC is using a Zalman 7000AlCu, but this heatsink does not come with an adapter to attach to socket AM2. Based on the photo, it looks like maybe a customized aluminum bracket was made to mount that heatsink on the AM2 mounting holes.

Is this custom or is there somewhere I can buy that? I love Zalman heatsinks, but none of the 7000 or 7700 series are compatible with Socket AM2.


Adapter available from Endpcnoise.com.

(Answered in the second post in this same thread. :wink: )

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 Post subject: Re: Intel quad-core?
PostPosted: Sat Dec 16, 2006 4:06 am 
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MikeC wrote:
BTW, there will be other models for other applications.


ETA? :D

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 16, 2006 10:21 am 
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Bravo Mike and SPCR!

These look like fine systems. The prices are not unreasonable, considering the extra work required and the fact that End PC Noise undoubtly pays more for components than Dell or Newegg. The economics of a small business' labor and parts prices are not the same.

Remember folks, if you don't like their prices, you are free not to buy anything.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 22, 2006 6:16 pm 
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One thing I wondered when reading the article on the Model 1 is that an Antec Solo is used with an Antec Neo 430W PSU. Wouldn't the use of a P150 provide the equivalent case & PSU for a lower cost?

Erssa sort of touch on this.

Greg


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 23, 2006 2:02 pm 
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kaange wrote:
One thing I wondered when reading the article on the Model 1 is that an Antec Solo is used with an Antec Neo 430W PSU. Wouldn't the use of a P150 provide the equivalent case & PSU for a lower cost?

Don't you know that black computers are faster?

:wink:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 23, 2006 4:18 pm 
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Very nice config. I will definitely use Model One as template for my new PC. I would go with the new Samsung 500gb hard drives but otherwise similar config. Now if only my pathetic Athlon XP 1800+ POS 5 year old PC would just die.....


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 06, 2007 8:03 am 
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Does the Model 11 case include the infrared receiver or will I need the external wire?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 07, 2007 9:18 am 
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Regrading the vented covers, anyone have a couple to spare?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 10, 2007 9:42 am 
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cyberspyder wrote:
Regrading the vented covers, anyone have a couple to spare?

Coolermaster sell mesh 5.25" bay covers from their online parts store and Lian Li also do some. I am in the UK and the links I have found are:

http://www.coolermaster.nl/shop/index.php

http://www.aqua-pcs.co.uk/index.asp?fun ... ductid=542

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 10, 2007 3:32 pm 
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roadie wrote:
cyberspyder wrote:
Regrading the vented covers, anyone have a couple to spare?

Coolermaster sell mesh 5.25" bay covers from their online parts store and Lian Li also do some. I am in the UK and the links I have found are:

http://www.coolermaster.nl/shop/index.php

http://www.aqua-pcs.co.uk/index.asp?fun ... ductid=542


saw those lian li's at performance-pcs, the CM on the other hand looks real nice. problem is that us canucks have no way of placing an order, since we don't have a CM store. may spring for the 3X 5.25 Lian Li module.

EDIT: look:

Image

Brendan


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 17, 2007 12:28 pm 
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In the end for my SOLO build (which still isn't complete) I purchased 2 black 5.25" hard drive coolers from this ebay seller. A direct link to the actual product is here. International shipping was very reasonable, especially when you consider the strong £.

I have installed them minus the fans and they fit in well and will provide the perfect front end for my PSU duct, which I am constructing out of thick card. So far the project is shaping up really, really well and I should have everything done and the computer operational over the weekend. I will post a thread in the General Gallery when I am done.

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 Post subject: Bought one
PostPosted: Thu Feb 01, 2007 9:48 pm 
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Put in an order for the "Model One" today. No time for tweaking and I'd like to have a warranty and strong support. Excited to see how quiet it really is!


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 Post subject: Re: Bought one
PostPosted: Fri Feb 16, 2007 6:46 am 
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Zakharov wrote:
Put in an order for the "Model One" today. No time for tweaking and I'd like to have a warranty and strong support. Excited to see how quiet it really is!


Well? How is it? Happy?

In other news, where can I buy one of those swanky SPCR case badges? They are teh win!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2007 9:17 am 
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A couple of questions about the internal component choices for the SPCR Model One:

1) Why did you choose the Intel Core 2 Duo 6400, given that the Core 2 Duo 6300 is less expensive and has more than enough speed for most users?

2) Why did you choose a 430 watt power supply when a 380 watt power supply would be more than sufficient?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 19, 2007 11:19 am 
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Wow. Back in late July, I built almost exactly the same system as the model eleven, based mostly on a few threads from here:

- NSK2400
- A64 3200+ singlecore
- 2x256 DDR1
(I don't believe in over-speccing a pure MCE machine)
- MSI K8NGM2-FID
(Essentially the same motherboard as the Asus, there were rumours of the Asus not being perfectly BIOSsed at the time)
- a pair of Hauppauge PVR150MCEs I had
- An existing 160GB Seagate Barracuda ATA V
- A semi-random black dvdrom I had
- 2x Nexus 120 black/white instead of the case TriCools
- Scythe Ninja, modified to fit.

I run the Nexus fans (both of them) at full speed, because they're already quiet enough.

The Ninja had to be fairly heavily modified, since it's about 2 inches too tall for the case. You need to remove the decorative nuts on top (they're just decorative caps held on with hotglue -- grip them with pliers, twist a little and pull, and they should come right off. After that, you can start removing fins from the top. IIRC I removed about 1/3d of the fins. The trick is to use a pair of needlenose pliers to grip the fin aluminium between the heatpipes, and apply upward pressure, while wiggling a bit. Wiggle too much and you'll make unsightly dents and black marks on the heatpipes, although it doesn't appear to affect the function. Once you've got the fins off, you can use a thick screwdriver (I used a quarter-inch thick one or so) as a mandrel to bend the top of the heatpipes out of the way of the lid.

Even at full prime95, the temperature of the cpu never goes over 35C with the Ninja being semi-passively cooled with the two Nexuses.

The SU380 that comes with the NSK2400 has cables that are exactly the right length to fit very, very neatly with the cable management options and power points.

Since then, I've replaced the dvdrom with a semi-random SATA DVDRW, which is even better cabling-wise. Other than that it is a workhorse which is stable as a rock. I might, at some point, see if a SeaSonic might be even better than the SU380, but it's hardly necessary for my standards of silence.

Slightly later on, I built a similar system except with an AM2 X2 4200+, the original TriCools at low, and an additional floppy/cardreader combo drive to be the new desktop-formfactor system for my dad's workPC. That one works well too.

Mike Chin: You might want to try out the modded-Ninja approach as an experiment, it's a cheaper option than the Zalman 7000 over here (although the reverse could be true in the US), and I think it's more silent (Not that I need my 2 Nexuses at full speed for adequate cooling, but 2x Nexus 120, or Nexus 120 plus a Zalman 7000 stock fan 90? I'll take the nexuses..) *and* more efficient. It might not be an option for the commercial exploitation version, though, even with as mod-conscious a company as the one that's doing these.

It's not a particularly hard mod, I did 2 so far and didn't screw up even my first one too horribly (ie, no functional difference, although the second one *looks* better). You might think the heatpipes would have a tendency to break open and lose functionality, but that doesn't appear to be the case, those things are made of stern stuff. It is timeconsuming to worry the top fins away with your needlenose pliers, though, I spend about an hour or two at it, while watching TV. If you could sell/buy enough of them, maybe Scythe would make you a case of bare, OEM Ninjas with simply the last n fins not put on the heatpipes.


Last edited by Jasper on Sat May 19, 2007 1:51 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 19, 2007 12:35 pm 
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Modded Ninja would undoubtedly mean no warrantee on the part. ;)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 19, 2007 1:48 pm 
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[F]bernZ wrote:
Modded Ninja would undoubtedly mean no warrantee on the part. ;)


Anybody who accepted one of these as a warranty part would have to be insane, yes :)

On the other hand, the Ninja is a 30-35 euro retail package, and you get the pretty good Scythe 1200 rpm 120mm fan with it that most people can find a use for *somewhere*. What I'm saying is, the Ninja itself is maybe a 20-30E value or thereabouts.. and I don't think it's *likely* I'd need to claim warranty on it (two of them, about half to three quarters of a year on, no problems from the mod..). All in all, the financial risk is small -- hell, I sometimes spend more than that on electronic toys that end up in a closet because I can't get them to work :)

Even or especially for a company building these things, I think *financially* it wouldn't be a huge problem to offer warranty support on these modded items on their own dime. The main issue is, I think, the fact that it takes a couple of manhours -- even with practice at least one, I think -- to do the mod.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 19, 2007 1:58 pm 
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IIRC, Scythe is coming out with a Mini-Ninja later this year that's specifically designed for HTPCs.

Brendan


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 20, 2007 6:39 am 
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cyberspyder wrote:
IIRC, Scythe is coming out with a Mini-Ninja later this year that's specifically designed for HTPCs.


As far as I can tell it's more or less in limbo -- they have prototypes but no fixed release schedule, as far as I can see. Meanwhile I've had *my* mini Ninja in use for a long while now..

I'd be willing to do the mod for others for a small fee, but as I'm in .nl, do consider shipping costs for this heavy beast.


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 Post subject: Downside to trying a DIY version of the Model One?
PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2007 5:33 am 
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Sorry for the long post. Mods, feel free to move this elsewhere if this is somewhat off-topic for this thread.

Some background on my situation:

I've got an old Shuttle XPC with a 2.4Ghz P4 which I just moved out of the basement office into the living room. The living room has a large computer armoire that closes up, with a bay on the bottom for a tower PC. As you might imagine I have two problems:
  • The Shuttle is noisy, even with the armiore all closed up.
  • With the armiore closed, the pessimal venting causes it to get very warm in there. The CPU core temp reads 60C after an overnight of idle.
The temp doesn't seem dangerously high, but I really don't want that to be the nominal operating temperature. The system needs to be on 24/7, as I frequently VPN into it from work, and it also serves up a USB all-in-one printer to other PC's in the house.

From a few hours of browsing this site, I'm assuming that the Shuttle is not worth trying to salvage, noise-wise. Which is fine with me since I'd like to jump up to something that will handle Photoshop better anyway.

So I'm guessing that a SFF PC is probably not going to work out from both a noise and thermal perspective. It's unfortunate since I've really gotten religion on SFF PC's and notebooks. On the other hand, there's plenty of room in the armoire bay, and most of the time the PC is hidden behind the door on the armoire anyway. So size here is not the factor it usually is for me.

Based on a quick fillup of a Newegg cart, it looks like I can save substantial money by cloning this design and building it myself. But I can think of a few obstacles:
  • The oft-mentioned custom power supply vent. I have no idea what the noise and thermal impact would be of omitting that.
  • It's hard to tell from the pictures exactly where the Acoustipak has been installed.
  • It's unclear what other custom work they needed to do to get this to all fit together. (custom heatsink work? special fan mounting?)
It seems like I would be ok with buying the components from Newegg and doing this myself. Omitting the PS mod and Acoustipak might raise the noise levels, but on the other hand the armoire will reduce noise substantially, so I don't need an overkill of 20dB.

I know I'm going to have to address venting in the armiore, probably by drilling some vent holes on the bottom of the PC bay in the front, then maybe mounting a fan in the back of the bay and run it at low voltage. My initial thought was that I'll have the 120mm stock Antec fan lying around as an extra, and just mount that. Or maybe put the Scythe fan in the armiore since the stock fan noise will be reduced by the armiore. I can just run a power supply cable extension through a card slot in the back power to the fan, which will cycle with the computer.

Thoughts?


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 Post subject: Re: Downside to trying a DIY version of the Model One?
PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2007 1:53 pm 
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davidyon wrote:
Sorry for the long post. Mods, feel free to move this elsewhere if this is somewhat off-topic for this thread.


Yeah, that. I have no direct experience with the SPCR-designed systems, so these are informed guesses based on the published photos.

Quote:
Some background on my situation:

I've got an old Shuttle XPC with a 2.4Ghz P4 which I just moved out of the basement office into the living room. The living room has a large computer armoire that closes up, with a bay on the bottom for a tower PC. As you might imagine I have two problems:
  • The Shuttle is noisy, even with the armiore all closed up.
  • With the armiore closed, the pessimal venting causes it to get very warm in there. The CPU core temp reads 60C after an overnight of idle.
The temp doesn't seem dangerously high, but I really don't want that to be the nominal operating temperature. The system needs to be on 24/7, as I frequently VPN into it from work, and it also serves up a USB all-in-one printer to other PC's in the house.

From a few hours of browsing this site, I'm assuming that the Shuttle is not worth trying to salvage, noise-wise. Which is fine with me since I'd like to jump up to something that will handle Photoshop better anyway.

So I'm guessing that a SFF PC is probably not going to work out from both a noise and thermal perspective. It's unfortunate since I've really gotten religion on SFF PC's and notebooks. On the other hand, there's plenty of room in the armoire bay, and most of the time the PC is hidden behind the door on the armoire anyway. So size here is not the factor it usually is for me.


A Shuttle is inherently slightly noisier than something else, as a compromise needs be made between small and silent (with a given set of heat coming off the internals, at least). However, the 2.4 P4 is not *that* hot a CPU. A Core 2 Duo likely will be slightly less powerconsuming and quite a bit faster, but:

In the closed environment of the armoire, which I suspect isn't so much 'pessimal' ventilation as it is 'nonexistent' ventilation, you're still going to overheat. If you put a PC inside a closed box, you *really* need to cut vent holes. I supect your best bet might be to put a couple of intake fans into the *armoire*, duct them to the intake(s) of the PC case, and add a few exhaust ports out.

Quote:

Based on a quick fillup of a Newegg cart, it looks like I can save substantial money by cloning this design and building it myself. But I can think of a few obstacles:
  • The oft-mentioned custom power supply vent. I have no idea what the noise and thermal impact would be of omitting that.


MChin said earlier in the thread that it mainly prevents the PSU fan ramping up in hot exterior conditions, ie summer. In your armoire it's possible that "hot summer" may be the default 'exterior' temperature, if not higher than that.

I don't think it would be *that* hard to make yourself. In fact it's such a good idea I may end up doing it myself somewhere. The duct is basically just sturdy paper and sellotape, so bluepetering something together should work. The grille in the front to make it look good will take more effort -- it looks like a standard bay cover with slots cut in it, not hard in itself but hard to do neatly. Taking a Coolermaster Stacker bay cover and wedging it in place would be easier, and might well look better than any attempt I'd make at such a grille.

Quote:
  • It's hard to tell from the pictures exactly where the Acoustipak has been installed.

  • Start by covering the side panels, and then continue on to every thin panel of steel where there's room and no airvents to hinder. That goes a long way, I suspect.
    Quote:
  • It's unclear what other custom work they needed to do to get this to all fit together. (custom heatsink work? special fan mounting?)


  • I doubt it, the Ninja fits straight on a 775 board and the fan change at the rear will drop right in. It looks like a fairly standard PC build, apart from having very neat cable management.

    I'm not comfortable with the lack of direct cooling for the drives in the proposed system, now IIRC the Solo has 2x92 mm fan grills in front of the drive cage, so I'd put one or two nexuses in there and only turn them on if and when needed. Depending on the version of the P5B chosen you could probably plug them into a software-controlled channel, which means you can set up speedfan to turn the fan on and off based on HD temperature. I've just tested my P5B-E Plus, and I can confirm that the two fanheaders right near those intakes are both running off of SpeedFan's Speed4. Whatever header I've plugged the CPU fan into doesn't appear to be doing anything currently, but it's far too crowded with that Ninja there to do any more on the fly exploring right now. I'll report back when I've had a chance to get to all the fan headers better.

    Quote:
    I know I'm going to have to address venting in the armiore, probably by drilling some vent holes on the bottom of the PC bay in the front, then maybe mounting a fan in the back of the bay and run it at low voltage. My initial thought was that I'll have the 120mm stock Antec fan lying around as an extra, and just mount that. Or maybe put the Scythe fan in the armiore since the stock fan noise will be reduced by the armiore. I can just run a power supply cable extension through a card slot in the back power to the fan, which will cycle with the computer.


    It makes more sense to me to retain the noisier fan on the CPU cooler and put the silent Nexus one as the armoire fan. That's the one you'll hear far more directly. Unless you can ventilate to the other room through a hole in the (dry?)wall?


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     Post subject: Re: Downside to trying a DIY version of the Model One?
    PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2007 4:21 pm 
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    Jasper wrote:
    However, the 2.4 P4 is not *that* hot a CPU. A Core 2 Duo likely will be slightly less powerconsuming and quite a bit faster

    Yes, but you also get goodness like smarter power management (SpeedStep or whatever the latest thing is these days) that will make a fairly significant difference to the thing I care about the most, which is power consumption (and therefore heat dissipation) at idle. The biggest problem is that at idle the armoire will be closed---any serious CPU load will only happen when a user is at the computer, which causes the armoire to be opened up allowing better ventilation.

    Quote:
    In the closed environment of the armoire, which I suspect isn't so much 'pessimal' ventilation as it is 'nonexistent' ventilation, you're still going to overheat. If you put a PC inside a closed box, you *really* need to cut vent holes. I supect your best bet might be to put a couple of intake fans into the *armoire*, duct them to the intake(s) of the PC case, and add a few exhaust ports out.

    Well, there are several air paths outside the back already (round cable management outlets). There's one directly out the back that's intended for power cables, and one that vents to the fairly large space on the top portion of the armiore (intended for the monitor cables). The top portion also has a outlet in the back just above the hole to the bottom, which I could at least partially duct to get additional convection airflow.
    I hadn't thought of front-loading the airflow, but that's probably a better idea than my back-loading thoughts. I could put a quiet 120mm fan on the floor in the front, just under the front of the case. That would push cool air into the the front of the cabinet, ready for the front grill of the P150 to pull into the case. Only issue there would be getting some extra clearance under the case so the air isn't just getting rammed into sheet metal.

    Quote:
    MChin said earlier in the thread that it mainly prevents the PSU fan ramping up in hot exterior conditions, ie summer. In your armoire it's possible that "hot summer" may be the default 'exterior' temperature, if not higher than that.

    But again, on the other hand, even if the PSU fan ramps up a bit, it's still going to have the extra muffling from the armoire. I suppose I could try it stock at first, then jury-rig something later if it's warranted.
    Quote:
    The grille in the front to make it look good will take more effort -- it looks like a standard bay cover with slots cut in it, not hard in itself but hard to do neatly.

    Well, yeah, that was what put me off on the DIY part of that. :) The internal ducting is pretty straightforward. Making a nice grill is a whole 'nother thing.

    Quote:
    I'm not comfortable with the lack of direct cooling for the drives in the proposed system, now IIRC the Solo has 2x92 mm fan grills in front of the drive cage, so I'd put one or two nexuses in there and only turn them on if and when needed.

    Would be interested to hear what you find. I'm guessing that this would be another one of those "try it then tweak if warranted" things.

    Quote:
    It makes more sense to me to retain the noisier fan on the CPU cooler and put the silent Nexus one as the armoire fan. That's the one you'll hear far more directly. Unless you can ventilate to the other room through a hole in the (dry?)wall?

    Agreed on the fan strategy. Venting to another room is out of the question unfortunately.

    Thanks for the helpful feedback! :)


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     Post subject:
    PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2007 8:57 am 
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    Friend of SPCR

    Joined: Tue Oct 05, 2004 1:59 am
    Posts: 1630
    Location: Portugal
    For those who want the 5,25 cover perhaps you should try contacting Antec. Maybe they'll let you have some "spare parts" ;)

    (Those slot covers are from the Take 3/4 rackmounts)
    http://images10.newegg.com/NeweggImage/ ... 023-04.jpg


    Oh... And one question:
    Would these meshed covers provide sufficient airflow for the PSU duct?

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     Post subject:
    PostPosted: Mon Jun 04, 2007 12:36 pm 
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    Joined: Fri Jun 30, 2006 8:05 am
    Posts: 53
    rpsgc wrote:
    Oh... And one question:
    Would these meshed covers provide sufficient airflow for the PSU duct?


    "Aerocool masstige"? that looks like a coolermaster stacker grill, right down to the plastic supporting the grill material and the shape of the curves.

    I have a Stacker 5.25->3.5 adapter due to a failed experiment, and that stuff is pretty open, I think. The slots in the bay cover as shown in the photo on the spcr system aren't all *that* open either, after all, probably about 50% of the area that isn't the surround (which you'll have on the stacker cover as well, just under the mesh). The hexagonal pattern is, I would guess, something on the same order of 50% open.

    You'll have to figure a way to mount it, though, bay covers aren't standardised in clip shapes and sizes across brands, or even necessarily inside a brand.

    You can buy the same grill material in sheets, and you may be able to bend and mount one on the existing bay cover after removing the middle section of it completely. That may look a bit better than one of those curvy stacker panels. Or maybe just bend the mesh into a replacement bay cover -- cut a panel the size of the cover plus edges, cut away the corners, clamp between two blocks of wood as a mandrel, then bend over the edges without damaging the paint, and leave the sides fairly long and cut them in the shape of the fingers on the original, and bend/mount it around the faceplate of the case. Use a few drops of (hot)glue to secure if necessary.

    http://www.4u-web.nl/shop/index.php?act ... uctId=8884

    I think that's the same stuff as on those baycovers.

    http://www.4u-web.nl/shop/index.php?act ... ctId=10166

    An even opener material.


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     Post subject: PC1 works for me
    PostPosted: Mon Aug 27, 2007 10:02 am 
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    Joined: Mon Aug 27, 2007 9:44 am
    Posts: 1
    I've been using a PC1 configured as indicated below for a month now and I'm very happy. Getting the system maxed like I did does not allow it to be silent, but it is alot quieter than the Dell Precision that it replaced. Thanks SPCR!

    PS: Design a even higher performance quiet system and I'll buy it.

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