Wow, aristide1. Thanks a ton for the detailed replies. I really appreciate the time and effort you took to respond in such a manner.
(Thanks too, floffe. I appreciate your suggestion as well-see below.)
No problemo <- Terminator accent. But also I want to make the FAH Subject here more interesting.
The non-beta speedfan lists the core temps in the low 50's, like yours. With the requisite 15 degrees added on to it it would put the actual temp more in line with coretemp results. The newest beta of speedfan has this offset built in, and those are the temps that I reported above. If you're talking about using speedfan and monitoring temps in the low-mid 50's, then I think I'm probably in the same ballpark as you. If you are using the beta or coretemp and get those numbers, well... I guess I'll have to spring for a real Ninja.
Hmmmm, now I will have to go back and check, I used Coretemp, don't recall which version. But my Tuniq Tower is never hot, even the heat pipes aren't that warm. I do recall that Arctic Silver 5 was about 2 degree better than most other brands.
Good suggestion. I'll keep the cover off and monitor the temps over time. Could be that I have lots of flow, but poor positioning of the fans. I'll report back after a few days.
Fans have 2 purposes:
1. Move air in or out of the case.
2. Move air hovering around heatsinks and hot areas.
On occasion with a duct a fan can do both functions. I have yet to try.
1. The stock fan in the Tuniq Tower at about 1/4 speed, about the 3rd dot. I can tolerate it up to this speed.
2. The stock fan in a Seasonic S-12 430
3. One low speed Yate Loon at 12 volts.
Not silent, not too bad for somebody already losing his hearing. All fans are 120mm.
Since the nb-47f is only about 10 bucks at microcenter, I might try it. If it stinks or doesn't change anything, I'll report back one way or another and probably get the enzotech copper heatsinks. Would you recommend a 40mm fan for it (shudder) or something else?
But the whole point of the Sidewinder ads was that they weren't all that much over $10. And do you have any Arctic Silver 5?
What kind of thermal adhesive did you use? Epoxy-type stuff or the tape-type stuff? You think aluminum heatsinks would be acceptable instead of copper?
I have epoxy but haven't used it yet. The thermal sticky tape has worked well so far for me. I always lay the case down and let gravity do its thing for a day.
ANY heatsink on that "T" will help. Hell, people use pennies as heatsinks. I recommend pre1980 all copper, not copper clad. But real heatsinks are typically made to have lots of surface area. This is why when anyone throws away pc parts I grab any and all heatsinks. If you have room you could stick one of these on each flat side of your NB for $2.50 total. You do need to watch your clearance. http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/miso.html
I plan on using this on my southbridge. Then I will take the original southbridge hs and epoxy it to the side of the NB. Now that's recycling.
No 40mm fans. Hang an 80 in the neighborhood with some bungy cords or something. Stick the 80 in your side duct.
If you change your NB HS you may need a rubber for protection. http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/micoprru.html
Okay. I'll take yours and floffe's advice and decrease the FSB and raise the multiplier to 9. We'll see what happens to the temps.
If you maintain 3.2GHz in any case don't expect cpu temp drops. Shoot for 1MHz passed the normal divider frequency. Boards differ, at 333 you could be at the high end of the divider or at the beginning of the next divider. 334 eliminates the question, as would 401. (Sometimes I can't believe how much technical info is out there on this stuff.)
Yep. Mini ninja. One of the threads I read before buying this board had a guy on there that used it and got some crazy overclock. In retrospect, sure, I probably should have gotten the regular ninja, but I liked the idea of having a heatsink that I could use in the future in a media case or the like. I'll look into adding a 120 versus just getting a real ninja.
Sure somebody got great temps with this and a triple thick Delta fan running at 7000 RPM. I would say cpu temp is your first priority. If need be add another 80mm fan to the Minja. You'll probably see results in minutes.
I used memtest to check the memory when i first oc'd this board. I kept getting an MCH error around test 7 until I upped the NB voltage. More voltage to the NB is probably one of the contributing factors to it running so hot right now. If I go down on the fsb, I can very likely go down on the MCH voltage and probably run at tighter timings. Have to run memtest again, and retest next week.
My NB HS was 60C stock! You added a little more to a bad situation. So what? Move the air, probably worth at least 5C. Don't sacrifice being able to run Prime 95 successfully for a small amount of NB voltage, it won't break the bank.
Heh, I hear you about the heat. I'm trying to keep costs down right now. I've got the heat on about 66, which makes me wonder if the temps should be even higher. I would turn it down more, but any lower than that and I freeze to death while trying to sleep. I hear you about the AMD dual cores. My Opty 165 at 2.7 didn't get this hot. But, it doesn't move past checkpoints like the OC'd e2160.
I'm all for saving money. You can always epoxy pennies to the edges of your nb-47f. If you read it I got a huge increase when going from 266 to 333, but only a small increase going from 333 to 400.
Reason is every 66MHz the board resets the NB divider back to a safe speed. An article published long ago said that if you took a pc and simply dropped in a cpu that was twice as fast, and kept everything else the same, it would only feel about 20% faster. To feel twice as fast everything has to be twice as fast, and that just won't happen. When I OC'd my X2 I had to slow my memory at one point. Man, I took some hit, but I had to if I was going to continue to increase the FSB. I think each "setback" becomes more costly. So I have no plans on slowing the memory again in order to pursue an even higher FSB, it's just not worth it. The only numbers that counts are FAH points and time between checkpoints.
I'm under a comforter with several inches of goose down, I think. If I used that and the temps were set at 66 I would wake up soaked with sweat. It takes a little while to get used to these temps, and I will raise them when it gets really cold out, ie below zero.
Added - I recall "issues" with Ninja's and the pushpin business. Some people found out they work better with more downward pressure. To determine this put the board horizontal and then put some more weight on the top of the Minja. Try some quarters or an Ike dollar coin. If that works you will probably have to alter the securing mechanism to screw down. It's not a big deal, just a PITA.