I, too, have been building up a new HTPC using this case and would like to add a few comments that the previous poster didn't mention.
First, the optical drive eject button didn't line up with the button on my LG GGC-H20L Blu-Ray/HD-DVD drive. When installed, the SilverStone button just missed the LG button by a few thousandths of an inch (it actually contacts the bezel of the drive just below the button). I had to take some spare acrylic and glue it to the back of the SilverStome button, and then file/sand it flush with the original contact point. In essence, I increased the "footprint" of the contact area of SilverStone's eject button by about three-fold in order to make proper contact with the eject button on the drive. I'll try to post pics of this mod later on.
Secondly, and more importantly, you must
pay particular attention to the combined depths of whatever optical drive and PSU you decide to use. The GGC-H20L is 190mm (7.5") in depth -- considerably deeper than most other optical drives. To use this drive, the depth of your PSU cannot exceed 145mm (5.7"). This combined component depth total of 335mm is the absolute limit, and you will be well advised to find a slightly shorter PSU to provide at least some
clearance (or you'll be forced to "shorten" one of the lower rear corners of your drive by a wee bit).
Even with the demise of HD-DVD (unless you haven't already heard, Blu-Ray won the format war over the weekend), the GGC-H20L's usefulness as an all-purpose std-def/HD-def DVD drive still has its merits in a case with only one external 5.25" drive bay. If you choose to use this drive, you must be aware of its overall mounting depth. Not only will it physically interfere with PSU's deeper than 145mm, but its extra depth will limit your choice of CPU coolers...
Originally I had intended to use Scythe's new Shuriken cooler. The Shuriken is only 64mm tall, which is actually shorter than the older Intel E6xxx factory heatsinks. I thought "how can I go wrong?" The trouble is, the Shuriken is also quite wide in both directions -- wide enough for the back 1cm of the optical drive to interfere with it. Even if I had used a shorter optical drive, I doubt that there would have been room for the necessary cables. The Scythe Mini-Ninja (aka: "Minja") is physically short enough to fit inside this case, but will likely be to big to work with any optical drive that you plan on using. I haven't actually tried
to make a "Minja" fit, however.
My solution for the CPU cooler was rather unique, and very environmentally friendly too. I picked up an older Intel 775 quad core stock cooler (from a local computer store that they shelved after installing an aftermarket cooler on a customer's machine) and installed it on top of a new E8400 CPU. The difference in height between the older duo & quad core stock coolers and the "low profile" stock cooler that comes with the new E8xxx CPUs is huge
-- the new coolers are less than half the height of the old ones due to the lower heat output of these new 45nm processors. Furthermore, the new coolers are an all-aluminum design, unlike the old stock coolers that were copper/aluminum. I'm figuring that if the new "low profile" all-aluminum cooler is good enough for Intel to cool these new processors, the older coolers would be easily able to handle the reduced heat -- thereby running their PWM fans at a lower RPM and produce less noise. I certainly can't hear it running inside the case when everything is all buttoned up and installed in my A/V rack. FWIW, Legion Hardware has overclocked one of the new E8400 to 3.6 GHz using this puny "low profile" cooler, so my solution should work for nearly every HTPC enthusiast that wants to build a system inside this case and
wants better cooling for the new 45nm processors.
What else...? Oh yeah. Thirdly, I had a problem powering up my system for the very first time. Many of you know the frustration that sets in right after you double-check all of the internals, tidy up all of the wiring, and then hit the power button. For me, the resulting "total lack of ANYTHING" was like getting hit with a sledgehammer. Double-checked the PSU to make sure it wasn't DOA... everything was fine. Jumpered the power switch connectors on the MoBo... fired right up. As it turned out, the power button on this case fits rather poorly inside the hole in the stamped steel front of this case. The button on my case is already partually below flush with the surrounding bezel. When I would push on it, the button would move inside its mounting hole just enough so that my finger tip would contact the bezel before being able to push the button sufficiently inward to turn the computer on. The solution was to flip the case on its face, apply some epoxy around the base of the switch, and then apply downward pressure to the switch itself while the epoxy dried.
Forth, the case doesn't use any thumbscrews. I don't consider this a fault, considering that thumbscrews usually belong on a case where their owners frequently like to swap out components. This is a HTPC case, afterall. Still, someone out there likely will be disappointed in this fact.
Other than those issues, I didn't have any real problems. Someone on the AVS forums mentioned clearance problems between the front of his PSU and the back of his HDDs. Perhaps he used a PSU that exceeds the mounting depth limit I mentioned above, but he didn't mention any clearance issues with the back of his optical drive. Someone else later pointed out that SATA cables with 90-angle connectors would eliminate this problem. Someone else mentioned the possible concern of using a modular PSU in this case, yet I can tell you that my Corsair HX520W works perfectly well inside my own case (without the hassle of dealing with unused wiring).
The GD-02 is definately a nice case, although some might be inclined to go with the GD-02MT with its added touch screen. The GD-02MT will only accept a slim-line optical drive, however, and nobody makes a combo optical drive that will play all of today's media yet (and may never will). I haven't looked inside that version but I'm at a loss as to why they couldn't move the screen downwards so that the case could accept a standard 5.25" drive like the GD-02, except to say that maybe they wanted to center the screen with the gloss black bezel that runs across the face of the front.
PS: yeah, the Corsair HX520W is 150mm long and the GGC-H20L is 190mm... yeah, that exceeds the 335mm limit... yeah, I had to trim the back of my optical drive 5mm... but everything works!