Pump MCP355
PES: XSPC Res top
CPU Block : D-tek fuzion V2
RAD: XSPC RS360
FAN: 2(soon 2 be 3) AF 12025PWM and 1 AF 8025pwm

i mounted the radiator on the back using some fan adapters, the case only had space for 60mm fans lol .

currently the rad has 2 120mm fans, and 1 80mm, there is another 120mm fan on the way.







The water is clear. the res has a light in it.

used de ionised water, with a few drops of PT Nuke in it.

keeps my e5200 at 4ghz , 1.4V vcore at <60C , normaly about 55C at load

i just hava a few questions:

1) Currently the pump is the loudest part of the system, just a quiet hum, is there any way i can dampen this sound? i was thinking of getting a fan controler, to slow the pump down a little bit, is this ok to do with pumps?

2) in the few days i have had it, the rad is getting quite abit of cat hair in it, so im gona look in to putting some fan filters over it, is there a manufacture i should look in to for the filters, or are they all pretty much the same?

edit: was looking at these filters, how are they noise wise?

Raise the pump off the case floor wit some soft dampening material is step one.
Then you might consider slowing down the pump, although it's probably less advisable.
To catch hair it's fine to use a bit of stockings/pantyhose type nylon. Any make, size and colour will do.
To filter out really fine dust I prefer filters for vacuum cleaners.

But where do you keep the PSU?

Cheers
Olle

Definitely get the pump off the case. I suspended mine (I have a 655, but same principle) using elastic. It looks ugly but eliminates the case vibration that was driving me insane before.

Mark
Firstly, it is possible to slow down the pump and that would along with the damper feet make a difference. The 'secret' is to ensure that an appropriate delta T is taking place i.e. that the correct temperature drop is occuring between the flows and returns. The setup will have a point at which it is most effective so you'll have to play with both pump and fan settings to get that.

Liken it to a domestic radiator situation. Each radiator in a house is designed to drop 10-11deg C across teh flow and return. Once that is set you then set up the boiler so a flow temp of approx 80DegC occurs. Then by altering pump speed you go for a tempo drop across teh boiler of 10-11degs. I may be a tad out on the numbers but this sets up your system to be as effecient (close to deign) as possible.

So, by monitoring the temp across the pump one could alter the pump speed so that it operates most effeciently, and, in the same way, monitor the temp drop across the rad so the fan speed can be altered to stay most effecient too. All this also means a greener and quieter system.

Hope that all makes sense!

thanks for the replies ( i havnt been on this forum for a few days), since posting the first picture, i have re routed the tubing so there is less of it (with the barbs at the bottom of the rad it took abit longer to bleed)





I have a pico psu, 150xt, currently only using about 130w measured at plug. you can see it just above the pump/res.


need to do somthing about the fan wires, there ugly,

the pump is on top of the sticky foam that came with it, i was thinking of getting a cable tie, and suspending it from the hose to the 3.5inch bays above, but i was worried about it starting a leak.

i wana under volt it idealy i dont really wana do the 7v thing where you use the 5v line as ground, because i think 18w is abit much to send back up the 5v line.

are there any ways i can regulate like a fan controler, i did look in to it , but most fan controlers i have seen wont be able to cope with an 18w pump attached (also i dont have any 5.25 inch bays available, so that limits options.

@ ListysDad - i sort of understand where your coming from, i was always under the impression that the temp of the water didnt really vary all that much in the loop,

i dont have any way of measuring the water temperature currently,

if i remember rightly the lowest starting volt of this pump is 6 volts?

i quitened it down abit, i shortened the tube from the pump to the rad, so now the pump doesnt touch the front of the case atal (it was just taping it before)

much better now i can hear it, but only when i listen closley. il do some better tests at 2am when the house is alot quiter.

My DDC has been undervolted for more than 4 years now without issues. Temps increased a very little, but noise dropped significantly at around 10V.

ah cool. thats nice to know , how did you under volt yours?

thanks Markp1989

Sunbeam Rheobus. Details of the build are in this thread.

thanks, i got the sun beam, running at 2235rpm, not sure what voltage that is, but i cannot hear it.

im running prime to see what kind of temps i can get, if its too high then i will speed it up abit.

Please post your results. We haven't seen much discussion about undervolting pumps.

FYI, next time you take the loop apart, you can mod the radiator to improve bleeding. Get a brass, sheet metal screw & rubber washer, then drill a hole in the upper end tank to fit. Crack the screw when filling, and the air will bleed out in seconds.

I got the fan controler, im running at at just over 7v , it slows it down enough just enough to i cannot hear it.

im suprised they dont sell radiators with bleed points on them, would make life easier.