Industrial strengthening has begun
I bought a camera that passed military shock standards, and for years have wondered why motherobards did not get treated the same...why?
It is only a layer of epoxy/urethane, sealing in resistor ends, empty chip spots, and insuring grounds are grounds and no bleeding allowed.
motherboards and chipsets evolved too fast to even bother with making tougher. It has occured to me, even big business has hung onto a run of socket 478 cpus, and I have decided to go some extra steps...
The ureathane is specifically "xtreme", and I could not believe my own eyes at what torture that took on in my awd subaru sandblasted in the high 70s mph in the dead of paint cracking winter. It is the reason I chose it...it even took on a battery type chmecial that gave me a nosebleed.
Anyhoo, the chores, I do not recommend this for just any diy:
poured urethane on the bottom of circuit board of PSU, and verified points weren't overstepping boundaries.
quickly light painted the inside of case, urethane. remionds me of n older case, it is a "once upon a time they had urethane" story after all..
the outside of the case had respectable oe paint, but refer to previous posts at what I have done. I stopped at 7 coats, 4 are urethane. the non colored (gray) also got a quick coat..the whole case in other words.
stainless steel backplate is too lively (refer to the past of thick back plates, non-conductive) I urethaned that as well.
Verify front cover connectors, and wiring that came with case. My own 2600 AMB has a small circuit board for usb, making a smooth transfer. I simply urethaned it.
Air filtering, if I have not mentioned, is done with an aluminum screen, and a cover from a cb radio (SECC only!) to maintain consistency for hdds.
Reverse cooling, urethaned custom duct, no volts, conductivity allowed.
I think this covers everything, pun intended. Staying well within specs, I could hear the earthwatts fan ramping up for no reason, while pc idled..it was responding to the very air getting sucked into the pc. No more. I have lost for the last time to unfinished , lack of quality assurance...
I will also, as mentioned, be urethaning the motherboard...
ponder a decade, and 5 grand in pcs, just for the internet, before seeking my qualifications...
maybe 50k hours is not that unbelievable. If a wd hard drive can do it, so can my build....
my track record with failures, has proven my "stuff" cannot handle temperature changes , nor what happens to electricity in those temperature changes...and the odors. oh my...
So, I knew urethane worked on everyhting, with a 340C boiling point, I searched the web for a pro quote that identifies what I found by using polyurethane.
Many electronic components and assemblies require a potting compound for protection against moisture, thermal shock, vibration and very low temperatures. Most of the potting & encapsulating compounds available to designers are unable to give adequate protection over a wide temperature range. Epoxies are generally hard and tough materials. They provide excellent mechanical properties, good chemical resistance and good adhesion. However, they do not protect delicate components during thermal cycling and may provide stress during the exothermic cure. Silicones are excellent for high operating temperatures (185Âº C) and provide a low durometer. Unfortunately, they are expensive and do not provide good adhesion. Conventional polyurethanes can be formulated to be flexible or rigid and have a low peak exothermic temperature during cure. But, these conventional polyether and polyester urethanes can be penetrated by water
the last sentence is an oxymoron. absurd...