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PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 10:38 am 
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Location: Winnipeg, MB, Canada
Hey I was just wondering, What is the female 4 pin molex connector on the board for? (the one beside the main psu connector)

if I made an adapter, could I potentially power fans or a hard drive off it?


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 25, 2010 10:18 pm 
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Yes you can use that for a fan or HDD is standard connector with from left to right 12V;GND;GND;5V .
For fans you can use the dedicated smaller two pin connectors near this 4 pin molex there are two one is 12V and the other is 5V

Image

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 28, 2010 3:31 am 
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I'd just like to confirm, the Y4 kit (130W board+90W brick) features a 2.5mm barrel connector, correct? How long is the included P4 cable? Also, do you have a wiring diagram for the 2.5mm jack?


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 8:41 am 
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electrodacus wrote:
For fans you can use the dedicated smaller two pin connectors near this 4 pin molex there are two one is 12V and the other is 5V


That was just the question I was about to ask.

Which is the 12V and which is the 5V two-pin connector?

What are the pinouts for the two-pin connectors?

Which pin is ground?


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 9:38 am 
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electrodacus wrote:
Except for the cable are you happy with the power supply?


Yes, it arrived very neatly packaged and functions well so far.

The long standoffs were not useful to me. I think:
  • An option for ATX extension cable
  • An option for short motherboard-style standoffs
would be useful to others.

See here for some build details.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 2:07 pm 
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quietdragon wrote:
That was just the question I was about to ask.

Which is the 12V and which is the 5V two-pin connector?

What are the pinouts for the two-pin connectors?

Which pin is ground?

Most of these questions are answered by looking at the pictures. :)
5v is the one to the right in the picture, 12v is the one to the left. If you look at the back of the PCB (picture on the first page in this thread) it's easy to see which pin is ground.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 9:40 pm 
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quietdragon wrote:
What are the pinouts for the two-pin connectors?

Which pin is ground?


WinMate provide some sketchy documentation.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 8:48 pm 
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ilovejedd wrote:
I'd just like to confirm, the Y4 kit (130W board+90W brick) features a 2.5mm barrel connector, correct? How long is the included P4 cable? Also, do you have a wiring diagram for the 2.5mm jack?


Y4 not available at the moment for sale hope to be available in two weeks as for the 2.5mm jack wiring the positive (+) will be the inside pin.
Length of the cable about 15cm (you can use an extension if you need more).
PS: Also I just made a small review today of a 220W brick probably the next Y6 :). See Link

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 10:32 pm 
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I wanted ask wiring of this connector which pins are positive ones and which ones are ground when looked at this picture? I got one brick which have left side ground when looked at straight front of a connector and right side positive just wondering if i need change new connector on it.

Image

Thanks for the answer!


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 11:04 pm 
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Mies, there's more pictures that answer your question in this thread.
- http://www.silentpcreview.com/forums/vi ... ht=#502760

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 11:19 pm 
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Ah great thanks! So it seems i need change new connector on my brick then.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 20, 2010 3:16 pm 
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Mies wrote:
Ah great thanks! So it seems i need change new connector on my brick then.


Not necessarily I can provide you with a adapter cable (extension cable) that will convert the pin output to match your AC adapter see the black extension cable in this image

Image

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 21, 2010 1:04 am 
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electrodacus wrote:

Not necessarily I can provide you with a adapter cable (extension cable) that will convert the pin output to match your AC adapter see the black extension cable in this image


It's ok thanks since already did order that board for you and i have extra plugs for that black connector. That black extension cable don't even go on with my visions how i install that board on my computer case well lets see if i can make it how i think :D


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 21, 2010 12:19 pm 
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Mies wrote:
It's ok thanks since already did order that board for you and i have extra plugs for that black connector.


I did not know you already ordered the board from me if so you got the normal black cable that is just an extension the pin are 1:1.

Mies wrote:
That black extension cable don't even go on with my visions how i install that board on my computer case well lets see if i can make it how i think :D


I do not really understand the first part about black extension cable I will attached another photo so you can see better the both ends. You can modify the extension cable to work with your brick you just need a soldering iron. You will find a solution let me know if I can help you with something else.
Image

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 21, 2010 1:56 pm 
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electrodacus wrote:

I do not really understand the first part about black extension cable I will attached another photo so you can see better the both ends. You can modify the extension cable to work with your brick you just need a soldering iron. You will find a solution let me know if I can help you with something else.


I did mean that short black cable which comes with this DC board. I did thought to make permanent cable inside of case whit this Image so that short cable is kinda useless for me since it does look too short for that layout i have on my mind.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 22, 2010 10:13 am 
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Miles where did you got that connector ?
Then you just need a P4 cable to connect to the 4 pin connector
you can find long P4 Male to P4 female extension cable just cut one end and solder to your connector and then insert the other end to the ATX PSU
Image

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 22, 2010 2:22 pm 
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electrodacus wrote:
Miles where did you got that connector ?
Then you just need a P4 cable to connect to the 4 pin connector
you can find long P4 Male to P4 female extension cable just cut one end and solder to your connector and then insert the other end to the ATX PSU


I bought that connector at Mouser Electronics once when i was buying something else there too.
Here is part number: 806-KPJX-PM-4S and shielded one: 806-KPJX-PM-4S-S


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 23, 2010 9:10 am 
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Mies wrote:
electrodacus wrote:
Miles where did you got that connector ?
Then you just need a P4 cable to connect to the 4 pin connector
you can find long P4 Male to P4 female extension cable just cut one end and solder to your connector and then insert the other end to the ATX PSU


I bought that connector at Mouser Electronics once when i was buying something else there too.
Here is part number: 806-KPJX-PM-4S and shielded one: 806-KPJX-PM-4S-S


Thanks for the info It may be that some people will be interested on this connector.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 11:37 am 
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NEW You can see photos with the 260W PSU and 220W brick LINK

Image

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 Post subject: Just wanted to give Electrodacus thumbs up :)
PostPosted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 7:41 am 
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Location: Sweden
Everything works like a charm, thank you for expertise Electrodacus, your writings in this forum made you trustworthy to place an order.

My new system:

Case: Noah 3988 Black
Intel i3 540
Intel DH57JG Jet Geyser Mini-ITX
WD 640 GB SATA HDD
2x 2gb DDR3 Corsair XMS3 1333mhz
Winmate 130W DC-DC Converter
Li Chin AC Adapter 20V 8A

Idle at 30W and haven't seen it pass 70w yet at load.

I bought the Noah case without PSU and examined the pictures a bit brief if the Winmate would fit or not. It turned out that there was a PCB containing the front ports that was in the way. Hmm, what to do. I had to elevate the Winmate 6 cm up in the air and turned the Winmate upside down.

At the moment I use the stock fan and the 80 mm case fan (40-50 degree Celsius), much more silent than my old machine, but now it's on the desk instead of below so there might be some more work to do. Tricky to find a decent low profile heatsink.

Great find Mies, I've tried to find the connector in Sweden but without luck so far. Mauser charge 1,76€ for a piece and then adds 30$ in shipping. :(


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 11:16 am 
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Bruce71 Thanks for all the info. It seams that the new core are power efficient and probably far from 73W TDP . Usually the Intel stock fan is not bad you will not find much better.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 2:34 pm 
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sometimes the intel stock fans tend to click or grind louder then say the nexus or others. Sometimes removing the stock fan from the intel aluminum block and replacing it with a 92mm nexus is able to reduce the noise alot without effecting temps.

I am going to possibly need to upgrade the pico in my HTPC, so my choices are between a larger pico or this. And with this unit offering better protection at a cheaper price, while only a slight cost of efficiency i think the choice is clear. :D

Im also convinced this may deliver much cleaner power, then what my current pico's brick is doing currently, and that would be a very good thing for the sound card i use.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 23, 2010 10:25 am 
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Finally I made the cables and photo so you ca buy this dual PSU kits.
I have only 7 complete kits and I did not decided if I will build more but you can find all necessary parts on eBay.
You can find the cable I used on eBay the ATX Y cable 9" is the eBay item number 360214602674 and the P4 Y cables are eBay item number 130354271054 they are sold by the same seller the other ATX cable you can get from me.
Also you will need an AC adapter (brick) to use with this kit and you can purchase that from eBay for 46.9$ is a 220W 20V 11A and the eBay item number is 260416839732 there are a lot of them on eBay
You just need to write the eBay item number in the eBay search field and you will see the item.

This is the price list YY is for 2 x 130W Yellow PSU the YG is for one 130W and one 120W PSU and the GG is for 2 x 120W Green PSU
Image
I think this photo is self explanatory an in this photo is a YG kit. The PSU "A" will supply power to motherboard and video card and PSU "B" will supply power to CPU, HDD and ODD
Image
ZOOM
This is just an example of how to connect the PSUs to a motherboard is just a passive Atom N270 board so I have no P4 connector for CPU but is the only board I have for photo
Image
ZOOM
This is a connexion diagram
Image
ZOOM

If you want to buy this just send me a PM with what you need and I will send you may email PayPal address or send me your PayPal email address and I will send you an invoice.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 30, 2010 10:39 am 
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electrodacus, I only saw the DC-DC converter boards available from your ebay listings. Which adapter is included with the Y5 package and is it still available for purchase? If it's not available, do you have a specific model that you recommend to pair with your boards? I believe ebay item #220595790610 is the "Li Shin AC Adapter 20V 8A" that quietdragon mentioned earlier and is using in his customized setup. Are there any issues with that? i.e. pin/voltage are aligned correctly to use without modification. Unfortunately I am unable to direct link the pinout diagram because of my low post count, but it is available at www . pchub . com/uph/photos/item/6331657781306150002_0226A20160_4-pin.JPG


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 30, 2010 5:18 pm 
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agheno wrote:
electrodacus, I only saw the DC-DC converter boards available from your ebay listings. Which adapter is included with the Y5 package and is it still available for purchase? If it's not available, do you have a specific model that you recommend to pair with your boards? I believe ebay item #220595790610 is the "Li Shin AC Adapter 20V 8A" that quietdragon mentioned earlier and is using in his customized setup. Are there any issues with that? i.e. pin/voltage are aligned correctly to use without modification. Unfortunately I am unable to direct link the pinout diagram because of my low post count, but it is available at www . pchub . com/uph/photos/item/6331657781306150002_0226A20160_4-pin.JPG


The Y5 kit is sold out but you can buy the Y2 and the Li Shin AC adapter the pinout is exactly what you need for the 130W winmate so no modifications needed.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 07, 2010 3:52 am 
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I got a question, if my itx case can only allow me to plug a 2.5mm dc jack, can your extension cable fit it?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 08, 2010 9:55 am 
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bearbb wrote:
I got a question, if my itx case can only allow me to plug a 2.5mm dc jack, can your extension cable fit it?



You can use a 2.5mm plug if you use less than 90W There are two way you can supply my ATX PSU one is through 4 pin din connector and the other using a P4 connector Image
At the other end of the P4 you can use anything you want including a 5.5mm x 2.5mm laptop stile connector Image

Best regards,
Dacian.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 08, 2010 1:15 pm 
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Thanks for the reply.

I still got some more questions:

1. Why 90W only if I use 2.5mm plug? So I can't use a 150W ac adaptor if I use 2.5mm plug?

2. Will you send me the P4 connector as well? Am I need to DIY the cable by myself?

3. What's the diameter of the 4 pin din connector? Is it 2.5mm?

Thanks


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 09, 2010 10:56 pm 
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bearbb wrote:
Thanks for the reply.

I still got some more questions:

1. Why 90W only if I use 2.5mm plug? So I can't use a 150W ac adaptor if I use 2.5mm plug?

2. Will you send me the P4 connector as well? Am I need to DIY the cable by myself?

3. What's the diameter of the 4 pin din connector? Is it 2.5mm?

Thanks


1. At 20V 90W will be 5A and 5A is max spec for the 2.5mm plug You will find some companies that will use this connector for 7A or more but I will not recommend since is not designed for that current .
2. The P4 connector is optional in case you will not use the 4 pin din connector and you will probably need to DIY the cable yourself. I have some cables and 2.5mm connectors that I need to solder on the P4 cables to sell them together with 75W AC adapters that I have on stock this are not great quality AC adapters I will probably sell them for 19$ including the cable and 2.5mm connector.
3.The actual connector is 10mm I do not know the pin diameter probably about 2mm or more but the spec is 7A/pin so you can use this type of connector for up to 14A since there are 4 pins.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 13, 2010 8:31 am 
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Although I received my 130w circuit earlier in the week, I ordered the 150w laptop power adapter separately and it didn't arrive until last night. After plugging everything in I hit the power button and instead of the gentle hum of a computer starting up I just get silence. I traced all the cables, made sure the connections were tight, then I realized I forgot to plug in the power adapter -- doh. With the power brick plugged in now, I hit the power button and again, nothing. This time I took it all apart, reattached everything, hit the power and again got nothing. Keep in mind that I have only the bare minimum attached right now: motherboard, cpu, heatsink/fan, and some ram. I triple check that the power switch is connected to the motherboard, the motherboard is connected to the 130w PSU, the PSU is connected to the 150w power adapter, and the power adapter is connected to the wall. Everything looks good but it just isn't working.

This is a brand new system so my next thought is that one of the components is bad. I rip a 650w Seasonic PSU out of another computer, plug it in, hit the power, and the cpu fan started spinning. So now I know the core components are working.

While sitting there thinking about how to troubleshoot the 130w I noticed that the laptop adapter (still plugged into the wall) has a green power LED lit up. I reconnect the 130w psu to the motherboard and as soon as I plug it into the laptop adapter the green LED (on the adapter) turns off. I get the same results with and without the included short 4-pin extension cable. It almost seems like some protection circuit is kicking in to prevent damage to the power adapter whenever it's attached to the 130w board.

Given this behavior, is my 130w circuit defective?


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