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PostPosted: Sat May 15, 2010 11:39 pm 
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agheno wrote:
Although I received my 130w circuit earlier in the week, I ordered the 150w laptop power adapter separately and it didn't arrive until last night. After plugging everything in I hit the power button and instead of the gentle hum of a computer starting up I just get silence. I traced all the cables, made sure the connections were tight, then I realized I forgot to plug in the power adapter -- doh. With the power brick plugged in now, I hit the power button and again, nothing. This time I took it all apart, reattached everything, hit the power and again got nothing. Keep in mind that I have only the bare minimum attached right now: motherboard, cpu, heatsink/fan, and some ram. I triple check that the power switch is connected to the motherboard, the motherboard is connected to the 130w PSU, the PSU is connected to the 150w power adapter, and the power adapter is connected to the wall. Everything looks good but it just isn't working.

This is a brand new system so my next thought is that one of the components is bad. I rip a 650w Seasonic PSU out of another computer, plug it in, hit the power, and the cpu fan started spinning. So now I know the core components are working.

While sitting there thinking about how to troubleshoot the 130w I noticed that the laptop adapter (still plugged into the wall) has a green power LED lit up. I reconnect the 130w psu to the motherboard and as soon as I plug it into the laptop adapter the green LED (on the adapter) turns off. I get the same results with and without the included short 4-pin extension cable. It almost seems like some protection circuit is kicking in to prevent damage to the power adapter whenever it's attached to the 130w board.

Given this behavior, is my 130w circuit defective?


Hi the AC adapter have a wrong pinout not compatible with the 130W ATX PSU you need to modifies the extension cable to get the right pinout do you have the spec or model of your 150W AC adapter.

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PostPosted: Sun May 16, 2010 3:53 am 
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I ordered the LI Shin 0226A20160 20V 8A 4-PIN DIN Plug AC Adapter, http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 0595790610


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PostPosted: Sun May 16, 2010 10:42 am 
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agheno wrote:
I ordered the LI Shin 0226A20160 20V 8A 4-PIN DIN Plug AC Adapter, http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 0595790610


This is what you have now or you ordered another one? From what I know this 160W Li-Shin have the right pinout.
When the LED on power brick is off it mean that you have a short circuit and this is possible since is a 4 pin connector ant if the pinout is wrong then the brick sc protection will work.
And as I mentioned before I test every ATX PSU I send just before sending so I know you have a good PSU.
Let me know how it works.

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Quad Q8400s 2Ghz 0.925V Idle:31W load:49W
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PostPosted: Sun May 16, 2010 6:50 pm 
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electrodacus wrote:
agheno wrote:
I ordered the LI Shin 0226A20160 20V 8A 4-PIN DIN Plug AC Adapter, http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 0595790610


This is what you have now or you ordered another one? From what I know this 160W Li-Shin have the right pinout.
When the LED on power brick is off it mean that you have a short circuit and this is possible since is a 4 pin connector ant if the pinout is wrong then the brick sc protection will work.
And as I mentioned before I test every ATX PSU I send just before sending so I know you have a good PSU.
Let me know how it works.
That is what I have now. Since I don't have the equipment to modify the pinout of that LI Shin, do you have any other suggestions on what I should replace it with?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 17, 2010 3:50 pm 
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agheno wrote:

That is what I have now. Since I don't have the equipment to modify the pinout of that LI Shin, do you have any other suggestions on what I should replace it with?


Others have reported that this AC adapter have the right pin-out for winmate probably you got some different AC adapter if you can find the pinout of your AC adapter I can make an adapter cable for you at no charge maybe you can make a photo with the back of your AC adapter the part with the info.
According to the ebay add you listed you have this model Link that is with the right pinout but maybe you got a different model than advertised.
Image

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 02, 2010 4:50 pm 
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Finally got my system up an running using the package I bought a while ago (DC/DC + Gateway Adapter).

Is 100W @ load (60W @ idle) too much to run this thing fanless? The PCB gets "hot" - not intolerably so, but enough that I think I should add a slow 80mm fan infront of it.

It's worth noting that I mounted it upside down (molex face down).
EDIT- I added a 900RPM Nexus 80mm fan blowing across the 12V section.

Also wondering if the molex connector off the PSU delivers 12V and 5V?
EDIT- Yep, looked at the traces and it powers my fans up. Perfect spot to plug in a fan adapter :)

The system it's powering is:
E8400 @ 1.1V BIOS
Asus P5E-VM HDMI (onboard video)
WD10EACS
DVD-RW

Thanks

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 03, 2010 1:43 pm 
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zoob wrote:
Finally got my system up an running using the package I bought a while ago (DC/DC + Gateway Adapter).

Is 100W @ load (60W @ idle) too much to run this thing fanless? The PCB gets "hot" - not intolerably so, but enough that I think I should add a slow 80mm fan infront of it.

The system it's powering is:
E8400 @ 1.1V BIOS
Asus P5E-VM HDMI (onboard video)
WD10EACS
DVD-RW

Thanks


60W idle seems a bit high for your system. I do not think that the ATX PSU needs any fan especially if you have a case fan. Some component may be hot but they are designed to work at high temperature so there will be no problem.
Thanks for posting your experience.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 07, 2010 10:32 am 
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This looks like a very nice and well made product.

Unfortunately, it wouldn't work in my system any better than the Pico150 that I tried, as it seems my Nova-T 500 TV tuner card draws too much current from one of the lines. I asked Hauppauge and they said it draws 7-10W from the 3.3v.

Anyway, I'm using an mCubed EF28 now http://www.hfx.at/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=127:ef28&catid=53:accessories&Itemid=1], which provides 15A, 11A and 10A on the 12v, 5v and 3.3v lines respectively, which suits my system.

It's just a shame these units don't have a bit more power where I need it as my EF28 may well be faulty (caused 2 brand new hard drives to stop working in the last two weeks), so I could do with a replacement and mCubed don't sell the DC-DC boards on their own (I got mine as the supplier had a spare unit).

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 07, 2010 6:48 pm 
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Location: Louisville, KY
Is this enough power for:

Intel E8400
Biostar G41-M7
2GB x 1 Viper DDR2-800 RAM
2.5 SATA HDD
ATI 5570 if yes:
Galaxy 9600 GT(No 6-pin needed)

And
Future build
MITX or MATX i3/i5 board
Core i3 530
2GB DDR3-1333
2.5 SATA HDD
ATI 5570 if yes:
Galaxy 9600 GT?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 11:40 am 
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doveman wrote:
This looks like a very nice and well made product.

Unfortunately, it wouldn't work in my system any better than the Pico150 that I tried, as it seems my Nova-T 500 TV tuner card draws too much current from one of the lines. I asked Hauppauge and they said it draws 7-10W from the 3.3v.

Anyway, I'm using an mCubed EF28 now http://www.hfx.at/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=127:ef28&catid=53:accessories&Itemid=1], which provides 15A, 11A and 10A on the 12v, 5v and 3.3v lines respectively, which suits my system.

It's just a shame these units don't have a bit more power where I need it as my EF28 may well be faulty (caused 2 brand new hard drives to stop working in the last two weeks), so I could do with a replacement and mCubed don't sell the DC-DC boards on their own (I got mine as the supplier had a spare unit).


Well 7 to 10W out of 3.3V is not that much but it depends on your other components. For example my computer the one in the signature only uses max 1.5A on the 3.3V so your TV tuner will work without problem on my motherboard since the 3.3V line can provide 5A and the TV tuner need less than 3A. But then again the Pico150 can also provide 5A and it did not work for you so not sure.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 11:52 am 
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yetidaddy wrote:
Is this enough power for:

Intel E8400
Biostar G41-M7
2GB x 1 Viper DDR2-800 RAM
2.5 SATA HDD
ATI 5570 if yes:
Galaxy 9600 GT(No 6-pin needed)

And
Future build
MITX or MATX i3/i5 board
Core i3 530
2GB DDR3-1333
2.5 SATA HDD
ATI 5570 if yes:
Galaxy 9600 GT?


The 5570 is using about 43W and the 9600 GT even more so with 65W E8400 CPU and G41 this will be to much for one winmate PSU.
With a core i3 530 and 5570 it may work at the limit but I will not recommend.
For one winmate PSU I can only recommend one 65W CPU + MB + HDD + max 20W passive video card this will be a 5450.
Or you can use any CPU up to 95W and any videocard that dose not have an external supply connector including the 9600GT with two winmate PSU.

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Quad Q8400s 2Ghz 0.925V Idle:31W load:49W
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 24, 2010 2:29 pm 
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electrodacus wrote:
Well 7 to 10W out of 3.3V is not that much but it depends on your other components. For example my computer the one in the signature only uses max 1.5A on the 3.3V so your TV tuner will work without problem on my motherboard since the 3.3V line can provide 5A and the TV tuner need less than 3A. But then again the Pico150 can also provide 5A and it did not work for you so not sure.


I've just replaced my aging AGP Gigabyte Socket 478 motherboard with a spanking new Biostar PCI Socket AM2+ board but when I tried using the EF28 it still was shutting down (screen going completely blank, nothing working but fans still spinning), so I think it's clearly faulty. The EF28 did work with my old P4 system for about a year before problems developed, which seems to confirm that it's developed a fault.

I'm not sure but the problems might have started sometime after I replaced an old FX5600 graphics card, which didn't have an external power socket, with a 2600XT Pro which does, but I don't think it draws much from them and it was wired directly to the Dell DA-2 brick anyway, so not drawing from the EF28.

Having said that, the hard drive had been having problems long before I changed the graphics card, which I'd just put down to the hard drive aging, but now I think it was probably the EF28 which was causing them.

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2nd PC: Bach VX, GA-MA780G-UD3H, PhII 720BE @ 3.2Ghz (SI-128SE/Yate Loon fan), 8GB Kingston Hyper-X DDR2 1066MHz, Yate Loon 140mm intake, Nexus 120mm exhaust, HD103UJ, WD6400AAKS, Nexus Value 430W


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 10:31 pm 
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I currently have the Winmate and an Alienware 220W adapter. I plan to move my system into an Antec ISK300-65 case. The Antec case comes with the following adapter.

Can I re-use this adapter or should I just mod the case to use the extension included with the Winmate.

Image

Image

Image


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 31, 2010 3:59 pm 
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sdheda wrote:
I currently have the Winmate and an Alienware 220W adapter. I plan to move my system into an Antec ISK300-65 case. The Antec case comes with the following adapter.

Can I re-use this adapter or should I just mod the case to use the extension included with the Winmate.


Yes you can reuse the cable from the photo it seems to have the right polarity so no problem.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 05, 2010 9:54 am 
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Posts: 4
I'm putting a new HTPC together:

Gigabyte GA-H55N-USB3 motherboard
Intel i3-530 CPU
Corsair XMS3 4GB (2GBx2) DDR3 PC3-12800 1600MHz ram
Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA hard drive
APEX MI-008 Black Mini-ITX Case

I'll be adding a DVD or Blu-ray drive in the future.

Will one be enough to power this?

Thanks,
Mike


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Aug 07, 2010 10:55 am 
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xj-boonie wrote:
I'm putting a new HTPC together:

Gigabyte GA-H55N-USB3 motherboard
Intel i3-530 CPU
Corsair XMS3 4GB (2GBx2) DDR3 PC3-12800 1600MHz ram
Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA hard drive
APEX MI-008 Black Mini-ITX Case

I'll be adding a DVD or Blu-ray drive in the future.

Will one be enough to power this?

Thanks,
Mike


Hi Mike,
Yes it will be more than enough.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Aug 07, 2010 3:30 pm 
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Posts: 77
Location: Urbana, IL
I might need another, re'doing some things on my wifes pc, and your PSU with the right brick might be good enough, I'll know after I killawatt it


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 08, 2010 7:52 pm 
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electrodacus wrote:
xj-boonie wrote:
I'm putting a new HTPC together:

Gigabyte GA-H55N-USB3 motherboard
Intel i3-530 CPU
Corsair XMS3 4GB (2GBx2) DDR3 PC3-12800 1600MHz ram
Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA hard drive
APEX MI-008 Black Mini-ITX Case

I'll be adding a DVD or Blu-ray drive in the future.

Will one be enough to power this?

Thanks,
Mike


Hi Mike,
Yes it will be more than enough.


Thanks! One other question - how much wattage do I need for a brick, and where do I find one?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 2:36 pm 
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Posts: 5
Location: France
Hello,
Actually I was wondering the same thing.
Let's say the system draws about 80W at full load (broad estimate), we're using the IGP from the CPU of course.

So you'd need in input:
    80 / ( 0.88 ) = 91W DC
assuming 88% from the circuitry.
If you have a brick rated at 19VDC for example, it would need to deliver at least:
    80 / ( 0.88 * 19 ) = 4.8A

Besides, if you use a good power brick (90% effficiency),
    80 / ( 0.88 * 0.90 ) = 101W AC
is used from the plug

Did I get it all right? If not, please correct me :wink:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 15, 2010 5:46 am 
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Posts: 5
Location: France
Hey,

For old-timers who prefer to use physical shops or want to minimize delivery fees/time, here are some helper search queries (you'll want to filter by language/domain name after clicking):



Watch out for terms like generic, compatible, genuine, original, used, refurbished.

The target laptop models:
* Alienware Area-51m (EA11203)
* Fujitsu A1630
* Fujitsu Amilo D1840/D1845
* Clevo 5600/5620
* Packard Bell M3,M5,M7
* Viewbook VB1500S

Important: Do not forget to check the pinout before ordering anything!. You do NOT want to short your board, do you? See previous posts for photos.

Tip: Depending on locations, brand-new items may have a warranty period. (Watch out where the vendor is incorporated)

For instance in the UK, it is up to 6 years (cf. SOGA 1979), but used items are not covered. After 6 months, you have to prove the item is defective (outside fair wear and tear), cf. SSGCR 2002
In other places of EU, warranty is minimally 2 years (cf. this page for references to adoption of CGD 1999/44/EC per country)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 27, 2010 11:41 pm 
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discreeter wrote:
Hello,
Actually I was wondering the same thing.
Let's say the system draws about 80W at full load (broad estimate), we're using the IGP from the CPU of course.

So you'd need in input:
    80 / ( 0.88 ) = 91W DC
assuming 88% from the circuitry.
If you have a brick rated at 19VDC for example, it would need to deliver at least:
    80 / ( 0.88 * 19 ) = 4.8A

Besides, if you use a good power brick (90% effficiency),
    80 / ( 0.88 * 0.90 ) = 101W AC
is used from the plug

Did I get it all right? If not, please correct me :wink:


Nice calculation :) the ATX PSU is 88% worst case when you have the 5V and 3.3V used at maximum but most of the time you need more out of the 12V line so efficiency will be in average about 92% and will go to max 95% if you only use 12V but this is not the case. Other the that you calculations are right.
You will get a combined efficiency (ATX-PSU + Brick) of over 80% about 82% at 30W to 40W this is normal idle in a low power PC.
At the same load of 30 to 40W a conventional PSU 400W+ will be only 60 to 70% efficient.

xj-boonie
I will recommend a 120W or more for the AC adapter more is better.
I can recommended you some models on eBay just ask me on eBay.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 7:07 pm 
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Posts: 20
Location: Outside the box
Hi!

I'm also thinking of buying and adapter for this yet-to-be-built (budget) PC:

AMD AM3 Athlon II X2 235e (45W max)
J&W RS780UVD-MKII (ATI 3200 IGP, AM2+)
1x2GB DDR2
2,5 HDD
Scythe Mugen 2
(+numerous external HDDs from a powered hub, shouldn't add significant extra)

Two questions:
1. I have an unused 65W output laptop AC adapter (+some soldering experience for the needed cable). Would this be enough for this setup? I'm also planning on underclocking & undervolting it, as I'd like a silent PC (well, apart from the fan of the mugen, but that should be ok) for office&stuff like that and some 720p playback.

2. How much would shipping be to Hungary?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 14, 2010 9:59 am 
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nagi wrote:
Hi!

I'm also thinking of buying and adapter for this yet-to-be-built (budget) PC:

AMD AM3 Athlon II X2 235e (45W max)
J&W RS780UVD-MKII (ATI 3200 IGP, AM2+)
1x2GB DDR2
2,5 HDD
Scythe Mugen 2
(+numerous external HDDs from a powered hub, shouldn't add significant extra)

Two questions:
1. I have an unused 65W output laptop AC adapter (+some soldering experience for the needed cable). Would this be enough for this setup? I'm also planning on underclocking & undervolting it, as I'd like a silent PC (well, apart from the fan of the mugen, but that should be ok) for office&stuff like that and some 720p playback.

2. How much would shipping be to Hungary?


Yes it will work but at full load the 65W AC adapter will get hot .How hot it depends on the quality of the AC adapter. I used 65W AC adapter with my Quad core Q8400s undervolted G31 and 3.5" HDD 4GB RAM with no problems.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 03, 2010 11:14 am 
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Good news for international buyers is that I fond some new shipping box that is light enough to be under 250g I also removed the black power cable that most of you will not use.
So the shipping to Europe and other international destination is reduced from 18.95$ to 11.95$

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 03, 2010 12:40 pm 
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Posts: 305
Location: Sweden
electrodacus wrote:
Good news for international buyers is that I fond some new shipping box that is light enough to be under 250g I also removed the black power cable that most of you will not use.
So the shipping to Europe and other international destination is reduced from 18.95$ to 11.95$


Terrific news! Wish I had a low power rig so that I could buy one of these PSUs :).


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 Post subject: Re: 130W ATX power supply fanless review on SPCR Reduced 20%
PostPosted: Wed Nov 17, 2010 1:20 pm 
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Deleted.

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Last edited by electrodacus on Mon Feb 14, 2011 4:34 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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 Post subject: Re: 20% OFF_____130W ATX power supply fanless review on SPCR
PostPosted: Sun Nov 21, 2010 1:08 pm 
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I have an Apple power supply rated at 205W and 28V. It uses a DIN connector though the pins are "upside down" for your board. I suppose I could open the brick and re-solder them for this or use an adapter plug. Do you think this would be a wise choice for a power supply? I believe Apple used 28V in this supply because their early LCD monitors used a proprietary ADC connection providing 28V 4A power to the monitor eliminating the need for a separate power brick for the LCD.

I plan to build a small desktop in an old Apple Cube with a mini-ITX (Intel 55 or 57 chipset) board, i3-5xx CPU, SATA HDD (3.5, 2.5 or SSD), and a slot-load DVD. I'll use the i3 GPU for now and avoid the power requirement for a separate card. Look reasonable?

(BTW, I wouldn't mind having an ADC port on the desktop to use an old Apple LCD, but all ADC cards were AGP and I don't know how to put an AGP card on a modern board with only PCIe slots. Would be a neat novelty.

Thanks!


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 Post subject: Re: 20% OFF_____130W ATX power supply fanless review on SPCR
PostPosted: Tue Nov 30, 2010 9:47 pm 
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Location: Canada
apple_unixman wrote:
I have an Apple power supply rated at 205W and 28V. It uses a DIN connector though the pins are "upside down" for your board. I suppose I could open the brick and re-solder them for this or use an adapter plug. Do you think this would be a wise choice for a power supply? I believe Apple used 28V in this supply because their early LCD monitors used a proprietary ADC connection providing 28V 4A power to the monitor eliminating the need for a separate power brick for the LCD.

I plan to build a small desktop in an old Apple Cube with a mini-ITX (Intel 55 or 57 chipset) board, i3-5xx CPU, SATA HDD (3.5, 2.5 or SSD), and a slot-load DVD. I'll use the i3 GPU for now and avoid the power requirement for a separate card. Look reasonable?

(BTW, I wouldn't mind having an ADC port on the desktop to use an old Apple LCD, but all ADC cards were AGP and I don't know how to put an AGP card on a modern board with only PCIe slots. Would be a neat novelty.

Thanks!



I answered you on ebay and yes it will work.
About the ADC port you just need any DVI video card and an simple cable adapter Link

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PSU 130W fanless ATX $29.98 SALE
Quad Q8400s 2Ghz 0.925V Idle:31W load:49W
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 Post subject: Re: 20% OFF_____130W ATX power supply fanless review on SPCR
PostPosted: Fri Dec 03, 2010 4:29 pm 
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Posts: 3
I saw the connection of two 130W PSUs you did a page back, selectively powering devices using the 20-pin connectors on both PSUs. You piqued my curiosity so I read more about the newer 24-pin connectors and the addition of the four extra pins to supply additional +3.3V, +5V, and +12V paths to the motherboard.

Rather than selectively supply components as you did, could I achieve a similar result by bringing a +3.3V, +5V, +12V, and common wire from the 20-pin connector of the second 130W PSU into a 4-pin connector and connect it to the four remaining pins (11, 12, 23, and 24) of the 24-pin motherboard connector? So rather than me choosing which components to power from each PSU, I would let the motherboard use the power available from the two 130W PSUs supplied to the 24-pin connector. Wouldn't the motherboard then see a 260W power supply and use it appropriately? Thanks!


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 Post subject: Re: 20% OFF_____130W ATX power supply fanless review on SPCR
PostPosted: Sat Dec 04, 2010 7:31 am 
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Something like this using two 20-pin PSUs connected to a 24-pin connection on the motherboard?
Attachment:
pinout2.jpg


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