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 Post subject: Re: Cheaper systems
PostPosted: Sun Jul 10, 2011 6:29 pm 
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silentbobbo wrote:
The second NIC is to sniff traffic from the switch for an application i use. Won't be doing it very often but may need to do it from a remote location hence always need the NIC connected


The more you talk about your needs, the more it sounds like you are a real power user. You might just use Word & Firefox on most days, but your heavy days add VMware and real-time traffic sniffing.

I would stick with the currently-recommended setup, as it spends your sub-$700 budget well. I would also start saving money for upgrades. The main upgrades would be Ivy Bridge and a SSD. Quad-core "Ivy Bridge" CPUs will be on the market in 9 months, so be sure to have $225 ready.

A SSD for Intel Smart-Response Technology should be 20-64 GB in size, Intel makes the 311 drive is 20GB and costs $110 but you might want something bigger. Intel Smart-Response Technology will only use a max of 64GB, and the Crucial M4 64GB costs about $180. Anand Lai Shimpi of Anandtech says that SSD prices should drop at 20-30% per year.

silentbobbo wrote:
I don't think a NIC card should use more than a couple of watts, especially when not being used. I'll turn off the Ethernet port from the switch-side


NICs can use 5 watts. The controller will only use a watt or less, but the MAC can use a lot of power. Some companies turn down the MAC to save power, and turn the MAC off when no cable is connected. I don't know if these Intel NICs have that feature.

silentbobbo wrote:
Also, if I connect my computer's HDMI to TV and DVI to monitor but my TV and monitors are turned off, does the video card use any electricity?


The integrated video will not use power when you are not showing video. This is not controlled by having plugged-in devices on or off. It is controlled by the "Turn off the display" setting in "Edit plan settings" on your "Power options" under "Control Panel > Hardware and Sound" in Windows 7.


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 Post subject: Re: Cheaper systems
PostPosted: Wed Jul 13, 2011 4:16 pm 
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Guys

I'm stuck during assembly of the xigmatek SD1283. I removed the middle cushion of the back plate but the side cushions are still there. Should I place the back plate on the motherboard with the cushion on the downside or upside? In other words, when it's placed on the motherboard, should I be able to see the black cushion?

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 Post subject: Re: Cheaper systems
PostPosted: Wed Jul 13, 2011 5:45 pm 
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silentbobbo wrote:
I'm stuck during assembly of the xigmatek SD1283. I removed the middle cushion of the back plate but the side cushions are still there. Should I place the back plate on the motherboard with the cushion on the downside or upside? In other words, when it's placed on the motherboard, should I be able to see the black cushion?


The cushion goes between the board and the metal plate; "up" toward the processor, not "down" toward you. In other words, you should not be able to see the cushion when the plate is on the board. You can see the picture on step 2 in the manual, the cushion is facing the motherboard.

Edit: Gaia SD1283
(The two coolers use almost identical manuals.)

Loki SD963 user manual

The next thing you will do is push in the long, thin, and slot-headed screws. You push these screws in from the bottom. Their heads are made to fit into the slots in the plate, and they will stick out from the plate about one mm when fully insterted. This is step 3 on the manual.

At this point, you are done working on the bottom of the board. Flip the board over, as all other steps are from the top. Be careful, as the screws that you inserted can fall out.

Step 4 is to put one washer on each of the four screws.

Step 5 is to twist a knurled threaded nut onto each screw over the washer. Tighten them down all the way.

Step 6 is to apply thermal compound. Many feel that it is hard to apply the right amount of thermal compound to heatsinks that have the exposed-heatpipe design. I feel that each heatpipe should get a grain-of-rice-sized dot of paste on the middle of its flatted area.

Step 7 is to remove the protective plastic film from the bottom of the heatsink, where it will contact the CPU. In this step they show the Intel or the AMD clip attached to the heatsink, but the included instructions do not attach it in any of the previous steps. Choose the correct clip, and attach it to the heatsink bottom with the included screws (the larger & fatter screws).

Step 8 is to slip the clips over the screws, and top them off with the T-type nuts. Tighten them down all the way. No need to use heroic force, but they need to stay tight.

Step 9 is to attach the fan to the heatsink, via the anti-vibration rubbers. Pull the pointed rubber arrow-shaped tips through the fan frame holes with your fingers or with needle-nosed pliers. Finally you slip the second-from-the-top heatsink fin through the notch between the rubber cylinder and the rubber arrow. The rubber cylinder will then rest in the channel along the side of the heatsink. Do this for all four corners of the fan, and you are done.

EDIT: (Finally for the Loki you stretch the rubber cylinders a little and slip the bottom rubbers into the channel on the face of the heatsink from the bottom, then slip the top rubbers down into the channel from the top.)


Last edited by Dr. Jim Pomatter on Thu Jul 14, 2011 10:34 am, edited 4 times in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Cheaper systems
PostPosted: Wed Jul 13, 2011 7:33 pm 
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That "cushion" is not a cushion at all. It's the way of isolating the metal backplate from the capacitor leads which may be poking through the back of the motherboard.

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FartingBob wrote:
A 9500GT with 1GB of RAM is the most pointless thing since NASCAR.


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 Post subject: Re: Cheaper systems
PostPosted: Thu Jul 14, 2011 2:37 am 
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Thanks guys
I got the SD1283 as you had recommended and not the loki but the instructions look similar. In the diagram, for some reason I wasn't able to identify the cushion being up or down.

Already 6 hours into assembly time. I installed the mobo into the case but didn't know I had to take it out to install the xigmatek since screws go in from the bottom. Now I'm installing this and putting the Mobo back into the case as the only thing that's left is the memory, hard drives

Also this case has space for an intake fan on the side but I didn't order one. Do I need to get it (only doing integrated graphics here)

Bottom line - all this taking a long time but loving every part of it, thanks to all help on this forum

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 Post subject: Re: Cheaper systems
PostPosted: Thu Jul 14, 2011 2:48 am 
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In step 5, I tightened the screws all the way down but they aren't all in the same position - some are lower down and were able to tighten more than the others. I think the screw closest to the blue capacitors is least tightened because the capacitor is blocking the faceplate from going any lower and i don't think i should apply excessive force

Bottom line - the faceplate isn't parallel to the mobo - should I loosen up some screws to make sure it sits parallel or it doesn't need to be?

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 Post subject: Re: Cheaper systems
PostPosted: Thu Jul 14, 2011 2:53 am 
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This is ridiculous - i was trying to mount the backplate on the front side of the motherboard all this while. Just realized that I have to mount it at the back side or bottom of the motherboard

When all's done, this is going to be the funniest thread EVER on silentpcreview

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 Post subject: Re: Cheaper systems
PostPosted: Thu Jul 14, 2011 8:34 am 
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Looking at pictures of the mounting hardware, everything should sit flush on the motherboard that needs to be close to the motherboard.

The four "padded" areas touch the motherboard, because they prevent damage, scratches, and short circuits. Then you screw in the two plates on the socket side of the motherboard, those should all be flush. When you mount your heatsink, just make sure it has enough pressure to make contact, but you shouldn't be putting too much pressure on the motherboard, or it will be bad for the PCB.

Consider things to be hand tight, but not torqued down to any extreme degree. It should hold in there well, but not be so loose that you can unscrew it with your fingers.

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FartingBob wrote:
A 9500GT with 1GB of RAM is the most pointless thing since NASCAR.


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 Post subject: Re: Cheaper systems
PostPosted: Thu Jul 14, 2011 9:59 am 
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Guys

All Done and it's booting up (booted up on the 1st attempt itself!). Overall the toughest thing was the Xigmatek install - I guess I wasn't looking at the diagrams correct

Thanks to everybody who contributed to this thread and continue to but special thanks goes out to Dr.Jim Pomatter for being with me from start to end!

Few questions and pointers to make sure I did everything ok.

1) The case supposedly can take an air intake fan to be mounted on the side of the case. Should i get this fan? I am only using integrated graphics
2) Put 2x4gb in white memory DIMM banks (left the other two blue banks empty)
3) I had the option of using the 20 or 24 pin PS since both the PS & Mobo supported that. I chose the 24 pin. Also chose the 8 pin PS connector to the Mobo
4) Is it possible to get USB 3.0 ports on the front of the case?
5) Connected case fan to molex connector. Is there a place on the Mobo? Would I get greater control by doing that?

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 Post subject: Re: Cheaper systems
PostPosted: Thu Jul 14, 2011 11:17 am 
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Let's see, I may be able to help on a couple of these:
1. Ignore the side intake fan for the moment. You don't have a big gpu in there, so nothing to cool with that. You may want to download SpeedFan or some other temperature monitoring software and check your temps to be sure. If the cpu is getting unreasonably hot, adding the side fan may help a tiny bit with that, but don't worry about it for the moment.
2. Should be ok, when you boot up, hit the DEL key to get into bios, and make sure it sees all the memory. If it does, then you're fine.
3. Good, the extra power probably isn't necessary, but it shouldn't hurt.
4. Possibly, you may be able to get an expansion bay set of ports. If it has usb 3.0 ports on back, it might be easier just to get a hub and move the ports wherever you need them. Price out the options, see which one you'd like better.
5. There should be some fan headers on the motherboard you can hook it up to. If the BIOS is set up right then you should get some more control of it there. But if it's quiet enough for you, I'd probably leave it alone for now.


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 Post subject: Re: Cheaper systems
PostPosted: Thu Jul 14, 2011 11:19 am 
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Do you have Microsoft Windows 7 installed?
How much faster do you think it is compared to your old computer?

silentbobbo wrote:
All Done and it's booting up (booted up on the 1st attempt itself!). Overall the toughest thing was the Xigmatek install - I guess I wasn't looking at the diagrams correct


Xigmakek needs to spend a few more cents on their directions. Their directions assume that you have installed similar heatsinks in the past.

I wish you had taken a picture of the bottom plate on the top!

silentbobbo wrote:
Thanks to everybody who contributed to this thread and continue to but special thanks goes out to Dr.Jim Pomatter for being with me from start to end!


You are welcome. This forum has no official thank'ing points, so it is good to know that we have helped.

silentbobbo wrote:
1) The case supposedly can take an air intake fan to be mounted on the side of the case. Should i get this fan? I am only using integrated graphics


I do not think that you need more air flowing through the case at this time. Perhaps you will want another fan if you add a graphics card. More parts means more power draw. Even a single fan can cost $6.50 to run for a year (24/7/365).

Check and post your temperatures with Speedfan. If you want to be sure that your computer is stable when working hard, you can use OCCT or Prime95. If you use Prime95, you should make sure you say "Just Stress Testing".

silentbobbo wrote:
2) Put 2x4gb in white memory DIMM banks (left the other two blue banks empty)


As long as you install into the same color, you are fine. Both can be in white, both can be in blue, don't put one in white and one in blue.

silentbobbo wrote:
3) I had the option of using the 20 or 24 pin PS since both the PS & Mobo supported that. I chose the 24 pin. Also chose the 8 pin PS connector to the Mobo


Good choices, as more pins connected is better. It means that more pin surface area is in contact and is being used to transfer the electricity, leading to lower electrical resistance and heat.

silentbobbo wrote:
4) Is it possible to get USB 3.0 ports on the front of the case?


This device (SilverStone FP36B Aluminum front panel 2X USB 3.0 ports) fits in one of your two front external 3.5 drive bays, it holds 2.5" drives and puts two USB3 ports on the front of your case. Its extension cable runs from the front of the PC, through the inside, out through the included PCI i/o shield, and into the ports on the back of the motherboard. This device is passive and will use no power.

If you have a lot of USB3 devices, you can get a USB3 hub that fits into a 3.5 external bay. If you want to stick with newegg, the best option appears SIIG JU-H40212-S1 USB 3.0 Bay Hub, and it also fits in a 5.25 bay with the included spacer. Like everything else that is active, it will use power all the time, so don't get the device if you don't have more then 2 USB3 devices.

These, or something similar that connects to the back plugs, are your only option as the ASRock does not have USB3 headers on the motherboard.

silentbobbo wrote:
5) Connected case fan to molex connector. Is there a place on the Mobo? Would I get greater control by doing that?


You can find in the ASRock Z68 Pro3-M users manual the location of the two chassis/case fan connectors, on page 12 there is a diagram of the board.

One fan connector is above the blue PCI-e 16x connector, just down and toward the back from the CPU socket, and above the "Z68 Pro3-M" white text. The other fan connector is along the other edge just a little bit below the 24-pin ATX power connector, but above the two white SATA connectors.

Both of the chassis/case fan connectors have 3 pins and are white. Set them to Automatic Mode in the BIOS to reduce your fan noise -- see page 58 of the users manual.


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 Post subject: Re: Cheaper systems
PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 4:32 am 
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Guys

My graphics driver that I downloaded from asrock's website is giving me an error
An error occured when registering a dll - mfx_mft_h264vd_32.dll

Googling up, I see some folks have had this error in windows 7 while I'm having it with windows 2008

Does anybody know the model of the graphics chipset in the x68 motherboard? Should I try downloading a driver from intel's website directly?

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 Post subject: Re: Cheaper systems
PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 8:08 am 
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Have you been able to shift your fans to be powered from the on-motherboard headers?
Have you been able to change the BIOS option for the fans to Automatic?

silentbobbo wrote:
My graphics driver that I downloaded from asrock's website is giving me an error
An error occured when registering a dll - mfx_mft_h264vd_32.dll


I think this error needs a new thread.

I'm sure that lots of users here are using processor graphics. If this DLL pays licencing fees on the H264 codec, it might be on the CD but not on the website. I really don't know about this error.

The ASRock web site is going to have the Virtu software, and Intel will not have this piece. At this time, you do not need Virtu, as you do not have a discrete graphics card.

silentbobbo wrote:
Googling up, I see some folks have had this error in windows 7 while I'm having it with windows 2008


I don't know if Intel supports Windows "Server" 2008, but if it can use Windows 7 drivers, then it should work.

silentbobbo wrote:
Does anybody know the model of the graphics chipset in the x68 motherboard?


The Z68 motherboard does not have a graphics chip. The Pentium G840 has graphics built into it. When you are looking for drivers, you want to select "Graphics" and then "Processor Graphics" and then you should see "2nd Generation" and/or "Intel HD Graphics 3000/2000".

silentbobbo wrote:
Should I try downloading a driver from intel's website directly?

Yes:
http://downloadcenter.intel.com/


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 Post subject: Re: Cheaper systems
PostPosted: Fri Jul 22, 2011 12:15 pm 
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Hey Dr.Jim

It appears that this case fan isn't capable of connecting into the motherboard (it has a much bigger connector). Tech support confirmed that and said I can instead manually choose High or Low setting on the fan which I set to Low

Also found a link
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/printpag ... Review/992
This fan comes with a standard peripheral power connector, so you can’t install it on the motherboard to monitor its speed.

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 Post subject: Re: Cheaper systems
PostPosted: Sun Jul 24, 2011 7:29 am 
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Antec "Tri-Cool" fans, now two speed fans, do not ship with motherboard style headers, they are powered by standard "molex" power input (same as older hard drives, optical drives, some graphics cards, and other peripherals.

There are 3 and 4 pin fan adapters that would allow you to power those fans by the motherboard, however I would suggest replacing the Antec stock fans as soon as you can. They are not quiet, and do tend to vibrate a fair amount, which will create extra noise. At the very least, I would strongly suggest getting silicone fan mounts, to de-couple the fans from the case, which will reduce the vibration noise. Cutting out the fan grill that's stamped into the case will also reduce turbulence noise, which will give the fan better airflow, and quiet things down a little more on top of things. To prevent fingers and wires, and other unwanted items from hitting the fan blades, wire fan grills are a great solution, as they do not impede airflow nearly as much as the case does, and they provide very good protection.

Tin snips make for a great tool for removing the original grill, and a trip to your local hardware store for "U-Channel" rubber edging covers will prevent the sharp edge from staying exposed, as well as give a very neat finished look.

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FartingBob wrote:
A 9500GT with 1GB of RAM is the most pointless thing since NASCAR.


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 Post subject: Re: Cheaper systems
PostPosted: Mon May 06, 2013 3:44 pm 
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Guys

To update everybody on this thread, my PC built two years is performing well. I can't thank you guys enough for helping me battle the intricacies of building up one's own silent PC but it was all well worth it. 2 years down, I feel the need for certain upgrades. Windows 2008 server (just use it as workstation though with DHCP services) has slowed my system down so I may consider SSD caching or just moving to SSD since it's become quite affordable now. However, the immediate upgrade I think I need is memory. I'm at 8gb currently (Kingston 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 Model KVR1333D3N9K2/8G)

Approximately, this is what I run
Windows 2008 - 2gb
VMware running Ubuntu - 2gb
Outlook, Excel, Word, Ultraedit. 1-2 misc apps - 2gb
Google Chrome with about 20 open tabs - 2gb

Now out of all, Chrome has surprised me with its numbers. I used to use Firefox and it didn't use anywhere that close but Chrome is the fastest and I rely heavily on its extensions so have to stick with it.

I cannot find how many watts in power consumption does my current 8 gb use up and if I add 8gb more if I'll be using double that number. I could consider adding in just 4gb more to save on some power usage

Thanks!

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 Post subject: Re: Cheaper systems
PostPosted: Mon May 06, 2013 9:59 pm 
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If you use the second NIC only once a month, i'd go for an USB-LAN dongle, if speed is not the important issue.

€: Hope you don't use the 2008-VM for extensive tasks, as 2GB will just be enough to keep the Serversystem running all services, expect dismal boot/reaction times depending on I/O-speed of your system.


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 Post subject: Re: Cheaper systems
PostPosted: Mon May 06, 2013 10:34 pm 
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silentbobbo wrote:
Approximately, this is what I run
Windows 2008 - 2gb
VMware running Ubuntu - 2gb
Outlook, Excel, Word, Ultraedit. 1-2 misc apps - 2gb
Google Chrome with about 20 open tabs - 2gb

These numbers seem excessive. You may be doing something wrong. I've run several VMs, loads of tabs and stuff on 2G of physical RAM. It'd be silly to do it with less than 4G now but I'm not sure why you need more than 8G, even with Windows 2008 and Chrome.
Swapping to a fast (I/O, not throughput) SSD would be an alternative to using more RAM. Also note that merely allocating to a swap file doesn't slow you down in any way if that's why you're allocating so much RAM.


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 Post subject: Re: Cheaper systems
PostPosted: Tue May 07, 2013 8:00 pm 
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Why do you find those numbers excessive? See attached. Do you actually run Chrome on your PC with 20-25 tabs?

I've always known paging is slower than accessing something from direct memory. For eg if I don't use my Ubuntu VM for a day, then it's in the page file and getting it back up as the active app takes over 30 seconds If you suggest using paging rather than adding RAM, should I buy a small SSD about 200gb and run the OS and paging file on it while keeping everything else on the 5200rpm drive?



Thanks


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