The computer and TV are in the same room, the films I watch them it just me, before I sleep I used to watch a movie, so while I sleep sel remains on the PC makes noise and wakes me up. Currently use to watch movies DVD RECORDER HD, has a 250 GB hard drive, half the film are almost always asleep, after about 3 -4 hours, the noise of 'hard drive wakes me up. In practice, the PC must be completely inaudible, especially if the night the I leave on downloading movies, I do not feel anything, electrical hum, hiss, no nothing.

For the discussion of the Atom NAS and DLNA server, I could use the reverse, to use the PC as a NAS, and then place the DLNA server with all the hard drives and video files in an 'other room, you can ?

Sure, the operating system to use an SSD for the content that I download for now I'll settle for a 1 Terabyte hard drive at 5400 rpm in a Scythe Quiet 3.5, or a USB external hard drive, low noise.

Because of the open houses and the problem of electrical noise hopefully good for the fanless power supply, I am concerned that some may emit electrical hum.

Yes, I understood the speech of the CPU, and I wanted confirmation on what cpu to buy.

On these CPUs give me some confirmation of purchase please ? The model you are referring to is between these ?

1: Intel Core i5-3450S 2.8GHz 6MB 1155 Ivy Bridge GPU 65W

2: Intel Core i3-2120T 2.6Ghz 3MB 1155 with Sandy Bridge GPU BOX 35W

3: Intel Core i3-2100 3.1GHz 3MB 1155 with Sandy Bridge GPU BOX 65W

The cheapest dual-core processors sandy bridge that I've found start at 100 euros, the i3 are all 35 watt T. Instead of the sandy bridge i5 are the less powerful Intel Core i5-2400S 2.5Ghz 6MB 1155 with Sandy Bridge GPU 65W BOX, this cost 161 euros.

Perhaps the CPU I do not understand which model you mean, tell me please what is the exact model should I buy ?

He also confirmed by the cabinet of the PC ? So I write a list of all hardware components

It's trivial to make a PC turn itself off. My HTPC will go to sleep if it's not playing anything and is inactive for 15min. Then the TV will get no signal and turn itself off after another 15min. This setup has no moving parts, so no noise even when it's on. The HDDs are in my file server and not in the same room.

The cheapest "real" Sandy Bridge is the Celeron G530.

If your TV or DVD device is capable of using a DLNA server, the server could of course be in another room. If not, there are devices you can buy to add this capability to your TV.
This way you could put your main computer in standby before watching your movie and not be disturbed by random noises while you sleep.

I do not understand what you mean by "use the PC as a NAS". I understand you want to install your PC next to your bed. This is not where you put a NAS!
Maybe you're talking about connecting the PC to the NAS all the time in order to avoid putting hard drives in your PC. That's of course possible (at the cost of lower storage performance).


The ideal cabinet depends on what you want to do exactly (fans or no fans, NAS or no NAS, ...).
If you want low temperatures, I think you would do better with a closed case which can block the noise of the internal components and slow fans which spin all the time. But that's only my opinion...


Regarding CPUs, I don't know the market in Italy but here are the local prices:
http://en.toppreise.ch/index.php?k3=2554&manu=&o=pa
The first one is no good but the second one (mentionned abovE) is OK if you're on a budget and you can upgrade it later.
Note that you could also try to find a used Sandy Bridge if money is tight.

Among the CPUs you mentionned, the Ivy Bridge would obviously be most efficient if you can afford it.
But you shouldn't trust Intel's power consumption ratings. It will consume more than weaker CPUs even if it's the most efficient. So you need to be able to cool it. Therefore I think you should decide on what you want to achieve, what case you're going to use and so on before selecting the CPU.


@Vicotnik: the trouble with automatic standby is that it makes noise if the hard drives are a few centimeters from your head. The most sensible solution is to put them elsewhere.

In this case there's no reason for a mechanical drive to be there at all imo. As you pointed out earlier, an all-in-one solution will not be silent.

@Vicotnik , @HFat

You to turn off the PC automatically there are various software for the TV is not a problem, I set the timer and turns off after 60 minutes

The TV and DVDR unfortunately does not have DLNA devices.

To use the PC as a NAS I mean this, place the hard drive in an 'other room, for' example in the living room, and with PC it is located in the bedroom directly download on hard disks that are located in the living room, at least I avoid Keep your hard disk in the PC, the PC can only use the small SSD for the operating system.

With the cabinet I want to do the job I mentioned, in the day to do heavy work encodings and I keep all the fans at 700 rpm, and the night to surf the Internet, download and watch movies, I turn off all fans. We say that the PC must above all have a good ventilation, otherwise fanless components not breathe, and at the same time it must contain the noise, as much as possible. At night, the fans are off I think that the cabinet needed this in a nice grid, otherwise ' air does not enter.

Which cabinet do you recommend in particular ? Which model ?

In this case for 'example: The Intel Core i5-3450S 2.8GHz 6MB 1155 Ivy Bridge GPU 65W BOX can stand with the fans off while maintaining acceptable temperatures ?

For the CPU can spend a maximum of 160 euros, not more. Prices at the end are the same as in Italy: http://www.trovaprezzi.it/categoria.asp ... &prezzomin = & = prezzomax

However, this model do you recommend it ? Intel Core i3-2120T 2.6Ghz 3MB 1155 with Sandy Bridge GPU BOX 35W

But the Ivy bridge is too hot to hold fanless ? Intel Core i5-3450S 2.8 GHz 6MB 1155 Ivy Bridge GPU 65W.

Let's say I want a happy medium between power and economy, the important thing is that the night can keep your PC with the fans off, otherwise it is useless.

I want the assurance that the system can withstand full-load with no fan, or if I forget to turn the fans burn everything. If I explained that some controllers have sondina for fans to drive the fan automatically when the temperature is too high.

I did not understand this sentence: Among the CPUs you mentionned, the Ivy Bridge Obviously would be most efficient if you can afford it. Unfortunately google translate does not translate well.

Yes, with the coming budget to 'buy this mobo, Intel Core i5-3450S 2.8GHz 6MB 1155 Ivy Bridge 65W GPU: http://www.prokoo.com/intel-core-i53450 ... -bridge-p- 49933.html, but if you told me that it is too warm is useless, the heatsink is nice, big macho: http://www.thermalright.com/products/?act=data&id=178, should easily hold 65-watt fanless ?

For the operating system I intend to use an SSD 64 GB: http://www.crucial.com/eu/store/ssd.aspx

Regarding the mechanical hard drive, temporarily purchase a wester digital blue 5400 rpm, 2.5, and I insert it in a Scythe Quiet: http://www.scythe-eu.com/en/products/hd ... uiet-drive -25.html

At low temperatures I think you will have to rely more on radiation than you think.

Since you say you're on a budget, here's my recommendation if you decide not to use any hard drives or fans: take any large metal case with a lot of breathing room for your heatsink and a removable side panel. People throw away cases like this all the time. I could give you one if you lived nearby.
Simply leave the case open and see what temperatures you get. Then install some kind of see-through mesh with large holes to replace the side panel if you're happy with the result. If you're not, the case will not have cost you any money and you'll know you need a closed case with fans running all the time.

Or simply try running your board, CPU and heatsink without fans and without a case.
If the temperatures are already too high for your taste, don't buy an expensive open case!


The solution is an expensive case with heatpipes like this one: http://www.silentpcreview.com/hdplex-h10
Anything else is risky in my opinion. But we live with risks every day.
Mainstream desktop gear is not designed to run without fans. Mike said his boards failed early when he tried to dispense with fans completely when using a conventional heatsink. I've never tried it myself. I only run mobile and/or low-power boards without fans.

For what that's worth, the least risky Sandy Bridge dual-core CPU is the G530T. Even with this relatively weak CPU, temperatures will be high because fanless cooling is extremely inefficient at low temperatures.
This CPU is cheap so you could try it with a relatively cheap board as a sort of experiment and upgrade later if you think your system can handle something more powerful. And if you wait a while before upgrading, cheaper Ivy Bridge CPUs will be available.


Let's try without English grammar:
p = computing power
h = heat
e = efficiency
e = p / h
e (Ivy Bridge) > e (Sandy Bridge)
Conclusion: Ivy Bridge is better. But it is more expensive. Sandy Bridge starts at 35 euros and Ivy Bridge at 160 euros.

I think your interpretation should be quite right.

marck120, se hai abbandonato l'idea di convertire i video durante la notte, non hai bisogno di pensare a sistemi particolari.

--------- english translation ---------

If you get rid of transconding all night long, you don't need any particular system.

--------- english translation ---------

Now I will go on directly in english (er, "my" english): let me know if there's anything not enough plainly understandable.

The four enclosures you quoted above are in my opinion not suitable for a quiet system.
I have an hands on experience of both the HAF-series and the 600T: you cannot make them really quiet, unless you rework them totally, swapping all their fans (and more probably that not, loosing a noticeable part of their cooling power). It's costly and probably useless as, moreover, you shouldn't need them at all, if you don't transcode at night.
Even a (painful) NSK3480, like the one which hosts the Wolfdale rig I've talked about, it could be enough (I don't know how many slots the two tuners would use).

I agree with most of HFat's suggestings: you don't need any special (-T or -S) Intel part, you just need to undervolt a regular CPU, while underclocking it can also help (but I don't think it can be necessary). You can do it either by the BIOS (if possible), or by software (RMClock and the like, for Windows).

Again, a quad core i5 should work almost twice better than a dual core (i3 or even i5) so, providing you're not to pay the extra heat at night, you should go for a quad.
Please take note that's true just for the video encoding: in all the other described tasks, I guess that you will hardly notice any substantial performance difference between a dual and a quad core. So it's definitely up to you and your needs.

I don't like the proposed fanless videocard: it's still a 50 watter with an inefficient heatsink, even if you will hardly tax it properly. IMO however you should strap a 500rpm fan on it and, anyway, I think AMD should have a better offer for fanless, the Ultimate-series by Sapphire for example.
To be fair, I don't like the very same idea of a fanless videocard (and I bought several of them along these years): take note that the same fan you will spare on it, you should probably have to add it as (additional) exhaust. Not a very good trade off, I mean.
The only cons I see for a fanned video card is that a quiet card usually will cost you more than a Sapphire Ultimate, and if you're not a gamer this latter may be preferable.

About MediaPortal, watching videos, and standby, it's not clear whether your PC should be a media server for all your home devices, or not. At any rate, a PC in standby is practically shut off, it doesn't work at all, so you can't watch anything from anywhere.

Last but not least, as noted by HFat, it isn't also clear how you will download and store your videos: it may be another critical issue, and building such a proposed Atom/NAS/DLNA rig could be necessary, in case.

+1

There are far better SSDs right now for not so much more money. You might also use some NVELO-based "accelerators" (I know OCZ and Corsair) if you store a mechanical drive in you rig.


I think that you will find that a No-Vibes mounting should be still necessary, if ambient noise is very low and your ears very sensitive.
Take also note that they lean towards running hotter inside the QD.

Eventually, if you don't need a 1TB drive, go for some single platter Hitachi, possibly HTE-series (very hard to find at decent prices in Italy, indeed, I bought some of them from WebPC a while ago), as they run noticeably quieter and more reliably than bigger drives (I have compared against Samsung, Seagate and Western Digital).

There are several ones, i.e. you don't need any particular one providing you won't run fanless or encoding all night long.


No: please, trust me, I've burnt several motherboards along these years. I started as you aiming at a totally fanless system: after a while, I've changed my mind.

With light loads, at 1.5mt a CPU heatsink with 3-500rpm fan (or two) is virtually indistinguishable from a fanless one, even at night, even in the middle of the country.


For the last time: T and S parts are not to be considered. You could achieve similar thermals just undervolting a regular part.

If you go for a Sandy with a discrete graphics, besides, you don't need an i3, as already said by many people, probably a Celeron or a Pentium should suffice (give a look at the Anandtech bench, they perform competitively against first generation i3s, the Clarkdales, which are way better than your P4) for even half the price.
If you should need more threads, you could go for a 77W i3 Ivy, like the 3225, when they'll hit the market (and a Z77, not a Z68 board), but currently I don't think its saving may worth over a regular Sandy quad (2300/2320/2380P/2400/2450P).


In my experience any desktop CPU is too hot to run it fanless 24/7, and any desktop CPU is too hot to run it fanless in the long run.


Apart that, it might be not possible to stop the fans (some fans simply don't stop) but, providing the fans can run as low as 3-400rpm (such as several Scythes, for example), you won't hear them when sleeping at 1.5mt apart. If you are still dubious, try the fanned way and decide (you can always remove the fans).


Yes, there are, such as the Scythe Kaze Server (which I always advice for), or some good T-Balancer.
But at the outset you don't need any fan controller, if you don't encode all night long, two or three good mobo headers should be enough.
Moreover, when you set such "emergency thresholds" you will end up in a sort of pulsating noise, very annoying.


Hm, this translation looks really bad.

In my experience no heatsink can afford such a task: I've a ginormous Scythe Orochi sitting on my desk, it works marvelously at idle or very light loads, but can't cope an "always on PC" which does some "serious" job. Unless you won't to cook your system within 1 or 2 years (or less). For sure, with two or three 500rpm fans it can do almost anything while being inaudible, at least for short periods (some hours, I guess): unfortunately it won't fit the vast majority of the systems (when fully loaded by 2 or 3 140mm fans).

HFat @, @ quest_for_silence


First of all thank you for the availability

I assess the situation:

ITALIANO : @HFat ,@quest_for_silence .Il problema è questo ,come mi avete già spiegato ,due ventole anche a 500 - 600 rpm si sentono sempre ,quindi anche se la notte non faccio conversioni video ,affinchè il pc risulti inudibile al 100 % le ventole devo spegnerle comunque .

INGLESE : HFat @, @ quest_for_silence. The problem is this, as I have already explained, two fans even at 500 to 600 rpm always feel, so even if the night does not do video conversions, so that the PC appears inaudible to the fans 100% I turn them off anyway.

I state that I have to take any case always enter two NOISEBLOCKER 12 cm with a regulated rheobus, along with the fans who sell homes will not take into account

So I have two options, using a case open and the night I turn off the fans, or take a case closed and I always keep the fans running (the problem is that even at night, the fans idling stentono)

- Cabinet opened, fans off at night:

The cabinet is the largest and airy Dragon Rider, has a large grill on the side panel: http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1208-page1.html, or the Rosewill ARMOR but now it is almost impossible to find: http:// www.rosewill.com/products/1656/productDetail.htm

- Cabinet closed, fan always running:

In this case I thought all 'Antec Solo 2: http://www.silentpcreview.com/antec-solo2, or the Nexus Prominent 9: http://www.hwlegend.com/recensioni/arti ... 521-nexus- prominent-9.html? start = 8. In these closed cabinet if the night I hear the fans as I do then? It's impossible to think of off the fans in these cabinets.

Yes, it would be ideal to test and monitor the temperatures, if an open cabinet holding the fans off the temperatures are good then you can think about buying a cabinet open, if the temperatures are high, at this point I think there is nothing to do, I can only take a case closed and keep the fans on. The problem is that I have a cabinet suitable to do the tests, leaving all the new parts on a table bothers me.

For the CPU I think I have a quad core i5 is much more powerful, but would benefit only during the coding of video, for normal use of the PC would not have differences in performance, because when you convert video fans are running even with a quad core should not have problems ? For normal use of the computer, turning off the fans, temperatures between a dual-core and quad-core should be the same ?

I looked at the tests on consumption: http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1202-page3.html, http://www.xbitlabs.com/images/cpu/core ... t-pentium- g620t/power-5.png, http://www.xbitlabs.com/images/cpu/amd- ... ower-4.png, http://www.xbitlabs.com/images/ cpu/amd-a8-3800/charts-3/power-5.png, http://img.hexus.net/v2/processors/amd/ ... /Pidle.png, http://img.hexus. net/v2/processors/amd/APU/3650/JC2.png

But I have explained that switching off the fans with the dual-core Sandy Bridge would have very high temperatures ?

However, the Ivy Bridge are the best.

At this point, concluding the models to be considered (also based on the price) are these ?

1: Intel Core i5-3450S 2.8GHz 6MB 1155 Ivy Bridge GPU 65W BOX = 159 euros

2: Intel Core i3 i3-2120T-2120T 2.6Gh Intel Core 2.6Ghz 3MB 1155 with Sandy Bridge GPU 35W BOX = 107 euros

Or wait until they leave the new Ivy Bridge, however, the new processors will be released in September i3: http://www.tecnoyouth.it/2012/05/22/nuo ... bridge-di- intel-soon-to-debut /

ITALIANO : @quest_for_silence ,puoi scrivermi per favore direttamente il nome esatto riguardo il modello della CPU che devo acquistare ? ,in questo modo facciamo prima .

INGLESE : @ Quest_for_silence, please contact me directly please the exact name of the model about which CPU should I buy ?, so do it before.

For the video card is not a problem, for what I need I do not need high performance, all right any video card, the Sapphire's HD 5670 fanless who were advising me is this: http://www.quietpc.com/products/ vga-cards/sap-hd5670-ultimate

SSDs advise me about this model is not it? http://hothardware.com/Reviews/Hard-Dri ... d-/?page=6, http://www.trovaprezzi.it/prezzo_hard-d ... r_60.aspx., the price is good, a SSD or the other is the same for me.

For hard drive instead of the mechanical Hitechi course are these: http://www.trovaprezzi.it/categoria.asp ... &sortdir=0, please show me the model you think is the most

I do not think vibes for hard drives are these: http://www.maximumpc.com/article/how-to ... _pc?page=1, 1

I can't vouch for the newer models but the single-platter Hitachi 5K500.B were very quiet and reliably so (I've handled a bunch). I haven't stumbled on better 5400rpm 2.5'' drives so far.

At full load, so the two NOISEBLOCKER m12 s1 500 rpm is not enough anyway ? Two fans from 120 cm to 700 rpm at full load instead of 7-8 hours are sufficient for cooling the system ?

marck120 --

"At full load, so the two NOISEBLOCKER m12 s1 500 rpm is not enough anyway ? Two fans from 120 cm to 700 rpm at full load instead of 7-8 hours are sufficient for cooling the system ?"
Questions like these are impossible to answer without hands on experimentation with the specific gear. You are working at the very edge of PC silencing and cooling. No one in this forum can give you a really precise answer. But you will have your answer as soon as you simply try it.

My advice is to get a case like the Antec Solo 2 or any number of other sturdy cases which are not too open, get the components you want -- a quadcore Sandy Bridge looks like the best balance -- and choose fans which can run at 500rpm but also can run at maybe 1,000rpm -- just in case. Make sure your motherboard has good controllable fan headers, and manual control.

The NB M12 S series fans are quite good, btw. I am not sure if the 750rpm top speed of the S1 is high enough to ensure you have enough headroom for hot days or long high loads, though. The 2 might be a better choice. It has a top speed of >1200rpm, and while it might not start consistently at 500rpm, it will definitely start at 600rpm, and if it is already running, it will easily slow down to 500rpm. You have to be careful running the fan this slow, as it may not start when the PC is booted or comes out of sleep. The old Nexus 120 fan is always a top contender, btw. Its top speed is 1050~1100rpm, it starts pretty consistently at 5V (550rpm) and it always comes up tops in our fan tests -- somehow always gets slightly better cooling at the same noise as other fans.

Spend a day or 2 experimenting. You will quickly obtain the answers you need. Then come back and tell us your success story.

@MikeC

Thanks so much for the availability


It is true that, without testing it is impossible to have the answers.

Just about the Antec 2 is the only one of the soundproof cabinet that has external 5.25 bay, so I can put on the panel VDF, the cabinet as a Antec P183 and fratacal have the bay behind the door, the problem is I need 3 bay 5.25 (I insert a CD burner, a panel VDF and the controller for the fans) and the Antec Solo has only has 2 bay 5.25. any ideas on an alternative cabinet ?

For the Sermon on the CPU I advised against the T and S versions, at this point I thought the new quadcore ivy bridge, this model is good ? Intel Core i5-3450 3.1GHz Intel Core i5-3450 3.1GHz 6MB 1155 Ivy Bridge GPU 77w BOX

The alternatives are these:

- Intel Core i5-3450S 2.8GHz 6MB 1155 Ivy Bridge GPU BOX 65W, but this is the S version, which is not recommended

- Intel Core i5-2320 3Ghz 6MB 1155 with Sandy Bridge GPU BOX 95W

- Intel Core i5-2400S 2.5Ghz 6MB 1155 with Sandy Bridge GPU BOX 65W, but this is always the S

- Intel Core i3-2100 3.1GHz Intel Core i3-2100 3.1GHz 3MB 1155 with Sandy Bridge GPU BOX 65W

The i3 77w ivy bridge from what I read out in September

The NOISEBLOCKER m12 s1 and s2 should start to 4 v: http://www.coolingtechnique.com/recensi ... ml?start=2, I believe, the NOISEBLOCKER s1 has the advantage that also starting to 6 turns v to 431 rpm, while in the case s2 is not capable of starting at 5 then 6 v v part directly to 701 rpm. the problem as I explaining it is that S1 has a maximum of 750 rpm, then if they are not sufficient to cool down the system is a problem.

Thanks so much for the availability, quest_for_silence, I advised the version HTE, the models found in Italy are these : http://www.trovaprezzi.it/categoria.asp ... &sortdir=0

I see sort of resistance to step back or aside, and IMO it's just futile try to overcome that: you have to make your own experience, and maybe to give us some new indications.

CPU: Intel Core i5 3450
HDD: Hitachi Z5K500
CASE: Antec Solo I EU
VGA: Sapphire HD 6670 Ultimate
PSU: anything already quoted (Seasonic X/Corsair AX series, Super Flower PE/FG series)

You may try to buy the NoFan CR-95C abroad (UK, Germany, Holland or Switzerland), personally I wouldn't try anything else (even if the review you linked it's terrible, IMO) to go fanless: as a spare I would pick even a cheap Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus (or EVO, I mean it's the same thing) to run along with the second NoiseBlocker you have (take note that the Solo I Eu has one more 5,25" bay than the Solo II, but it can accomodate just one 120mm fan).

Have a good luck Marco, keep us informed.

Thank you so much you have been very kind, the list of components is just what we wanted.

Regarding the CR-95C NoFan is really too expensive, 100 euros for a heat sink are so many, I prefer to stay on the Thermalright HR-02 macho.

As for the continuous case a little research, I see if I find something, between 'The EU and the Antec Solo Antec Solo 2, only 2 looks better to me, Please install the possibility of a second fan is too important.

If I choose only 2 controller I can put it in some way in a 3.5 internal bay for hard disk, these two models, I think we come: Scythe Kaze Master Pro 3.5, Scythe Kaze Q Fan-8

I make a summary list of components:

Case: Antec Solo 2

PSU: Seasonic x460

Mobo: GA-Z68X-UD3H-B3

CPU: Intel Core i5 3450 Ivy Bridge 77w GPU BOX

SSD: 60GB Corsair Accelerator

HDD: Hitachi Z5K500

Cooler: Thermalright HR-02 macho

Ram: Corsair DDR3 (2x2GB)

Writer: sony optiarc

VGA : Sapphire HD 6670 Ultimate

Fan: two 12 m NOISEBLOCKER S1 or S2

The mobo and power supply have kept these models are a matter of price.

Thanks again for everything, of course I keep you informed, do you know even if I find some other cabinet. If I somehow doubt I'll know.

You should consider an Asus board, as they have far better on-board fan controllers. The Z77 series boards with "fan xpert 2" make an outboard fan controller unnecessary.

It seems that many people here have already told him, but he does not seem receptive to the advice, maybe due to lack of experience about.
Even the the choice of the specific controller does not seem to take into account the need to automate the fans control (a miniNG or one of last available, now discontinued Kaze Server 3.5 may help a bit more, in case).

@MikeC , @quest_for_silence

The Asus V-P8Z77 think is this: http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_ ... 55/P8Z77V/, in the list of online stores but which is which right ? http://www.trovaprezzi.it/categoria.asp ... &prezzomax =

I discarded the Asus V-P8Z77 only a matter of price, I also wrote in the previous post, but I realized that it costs the same to gigabytes. Through Fan Xpert 2 fans are controlled by the bios ? You can adjust the exact rpm ? 500 -550 -600, 750 rpm, etc. .. ?

The Kaze Server 3.5 I had seen him, but if I understand you can only adjust 2 fans ? In all, I have three fans, the Thermalright HR-02 has a macho fan of 140 cm. About the fan of Thermalright HR-02 has macho pwm, and can adjust the RPM of the fan pwm ?

To get Fan Xpert 2 you need the Asus P8Z77-V, from sources such as http://www.prokoo.com/asus-1155-p8z77v-z77atxddr3vga-p-50172.html. The P8Z77-V LE and P8Z77-V LX models do not have Fan Xpert 2. Using Fan Xpert 2 with 3 pin fans you can run the fans as slow as their starting voltage. It is possible to use the BIOS to control 3 pin fans as well. What I have found is that the Asus BIOS control even in Silent mode does not run 3 pin fans much below 7v. To get below 7v you need Fan Xpert 2. Fan Xpert 2 can also control PWM fans such as the one fitted to the Macho HR-02.

Thanks for the explanations

I remembered that the Asus cost a little more compared to the gigabyte, now see if we arrive with the budget. I saw a movie about the Fan Xpert 2: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TXOey5BYFc4&feature = related, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQKmP5CxQUg, i thought it was a function not as sophisticated as you explained in this course so i would not need a controller. you have done well to specify that the LX-V Fan Xpert have no 2, thankfully I have asked, or maybe you took the wrong model. the only thing missing is an eSATA port but not a big problem. NOISEBLOCKER m12 s1 should start at 4 volts

The fan of macho turn it on only if needed this, otherwise I'm going to keep it off

You should keep this fan on, even at <500rpm, more so than the case fans. It has a more direct impact on component cooling than any other fan.

See our take on fan xpert 2 here: http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1262-page6.html

No, you're wrong, it should cost you about 40 euros more than the proposed Gigabyte: give a look here.
However, it's a Z77 and not a Z68 (which are to be discontinued now), so the price difference is due even to that.


No, it works as a percentage of duty cycle, give a look at these shots (I think MikeC has already pointed it out while I've had editing this post).
If I may take the liberty, I think you should do some more homework (please don't take offense) when reviewing your parts list.


As you don't need to go fanless (IMO) to have a 24/7 quiet system, you don't need (IMO) more than two fans (CPU and exhaust) to have a reasonably cool quiet system. But in case you'd need an intake, you might run it off one of the very same headers of the above mentioned fans.

Among the rheobuses, I prefer the T-Balancer (software controlled, with plug in for SpeedFan), or the Scythe Server series (for their semi-automatic mode), but when you have a pair of good mobo headers, an external controller is just an unnecessary complication (IMHO).

Eventually, just a hint; I'm typing this post from the folding rig: just before than doing it, for the sake of fun, I took four 10-minutes-interval readings with just Prime95 running (stopped the two GTX460s from folding) at 550rpm, 680rpm, 840rpm and 1000rpm (approximate averages). Well, these are the resulting temps (from SpeedFan and CoreTemp):

rpm---Core
0550---57°C
0680---53°C
0840---50°C
1000---47°C

Then, by a pair of strings I stopped the two fans it sports (a pair of Enermax PWM, not the best sounding around): in less than 30secs, from 47°C the CPU temp skyrocketed up to 61°C (between 62°C and 69°C this system should throttling, and then reboot spontaneously, IIRC) when I restarted the fans. Ambient temp is just below 19°C.

This CPU is far different from your proposed Ivy, it's a 95W/3.0GHz slightly undervolted (1.25V) Phenom II X3, the heatsink is a less performing one than the HR02 (it's the previous HR01), but however, in order to run 24/7 with some serious loadings, I would want it to stay continuatively well under 55°C (so from 700rpm and more, preferably around 900-1000rpm). For a not continuative use, I would accept 2-4°C more (I don't like - anymore - to shorten my components life).
Just as a subjective measure, at 840rpm I wouldn't be able to sleep at 1.5mt away from it, even if it isn't loud at all (a persistent, relatively gentle woosh, to be fair even due to the Enermax Magma fan of the PSU you wouldn't have).

Let us know how much will be your temp (and sound).

Thanks again for your explanations

Yes, and true, the mobo costs around 40 euros more than the gigabytes, I got mixed with the L-V model that does not have the Expert Fan

That means it works with the percentage of the cycle ? The fans then increase according to the load and heat ? Then we go for example if I want to keep the fans fixed at 600 -700 rpm can not do it ? If so it's useless, I want to set the rpm at will, if required the fan to 500 rpm, should remain that way. For a list of components I have not offended, God forbid.

I looked at the temperature chart you posted, about the fan so I advise the NOISEBLOCKER 12 m s2 ? , because the S1 only comes to 750 rpm. For 'example with NOISEBLOCKER s1, only goes to 750 rpm, during the coding of video so I have a temperature of 52-53 degrees ? But I remain the norm, why should I not exceed 55 degrees. During the night, the PC is not under stress, then two fans at 500 rpm are not enough to cool down the system ? I would have a temperature of around 57 degrees, and then is too ?

At this point, if the temperatures with the fans at least are too high is not it better to focus on a more open houses ? So the temparature will be lower, otherwise I feel every second by adjusting the vents. If the case is open I can leave the fan fixed at 500 rpm, so even at full-load would have low temperatures.

However the important thing is not to exceed 55 degrees at full-load.

I read that, perhaps, a case of this kind: http://store.antec.com/Category/LanBoyAir.aspx, maybe you can also turn off the fans, and exploit the cooling with the 'effects are normally open fireplace.

Regarding the T-Balancer Rheobus I did some research but can not find it.

People are weird about temperatures.
I don't want to be insulting but are you kidding? It's hard enough to do that with slow fans!

The only way to accomplish that goal without watercooling or fans is:
-to use a weak low-power CPU like the Atom N2800
-to use a special-purpose case with heatpipes or direct contact to transmit heat between the CPU and the whole case
-no external obstruction to the dissipation of heat from the case
-moderate ambient temperature
You need ALL FOUR factors. Not one or two.

You have NO HOPE IN HELL of reliably keeping a Sandy Bridge or Ivy Bridge desktop CPU under 55C with any of the fanless cooling strategies you've considered, even if you were to underclock so much that as to make the CPU weaker than the 35 euros Celeron you groundlessly disdain.
No amount of spending on gimmicky cases will help.
*grumbles*

Answering you it's a bit further my english: give a look to this brief italian reading
For what it worth just think to a sort of not linear/not continuous way to control fan rounds: it was just to say that you can't set a speed directly, but you have to try which percentage would give you a particular speed (as a corollary, some specific intermediate speed are not achievable this way).


I really don't know what the above translation means. And frankly I'm scared to think how you may translate my english!

At any rate, any automatic fan control (BIOS, Fan Xpert, SpeedFan, some rheobus, etc.) can change the fan speeds with reference to some temperatures.
I don't know with Fan Xpert 2, but surely with a good rheobus or SpeedFan you can set a fixed speed (this is what I simulate with my tries): but I think it's useless because any fan control should act as a safety system.
To achieve a good noise profile you have to set the fan thresholds in order to minimize noise BUT moreover rapid changing in noise level (so frequent fans "ramp up" or "calm down" are to be avoided, IME/IMO).


No, you can't compare directly different systems. Moreover our CPUs are very different.
Providing it's the same CPU, broadly speaking you can't expect that with an Enermax Cluster or a NoiseBlocker S1 you can obtain a noticeably different cooling power at those very low speeds (I mean 3-4-500rpm).

The only sure thing is that I can not cool fanless that CPU under load.
Another reasonable guesswork is that I cannot cool it 24/7 with less than 700rpm (also under load).

As you will have a slightly-to-moderately better heatsink, and a noticeably cooler CPU, it MIGHT be possible to cool it under load with two fans spinning under 700rpm.

Please take note that's true here at 19°C ambient: what about with 33°C ambient? What about after a prolonged (or permanent) heat build up? I can't help.

About the fan max speed itself, after some experience I prefer to have 1200-1500rpm fans which I can dial down to at least 500rpm, 300rpm preferably, in order to have more headroom in case (as collaterals now I have a box full of very low spinning fans).


As said our CPUs are very different: I think you could have a maybe 10°C headroom with reference to me.

But as many of us have already told you, you cannot forecast the exact behaviour of your next set.

As many of us have already told you, you might run your system on your desk without a case, and just then decide which enclosure you will buy.


In my experience a more open enclosure would mainly better cope the heat build up, but when convection matters nothing can replace an higher airflow (and/or more surface area).


It might be a rule of thumb for 24/7 operations, but I think it's a bit too much optimistic.


The LanBoy isn't so much suitable for a quiet system, IMHO, but moreover it should cost noticeably more.


It's an high-end rheobus, you can find in Italy from resellers as Aquatuning or directly from Hfx (about 30 euros the two channels model, 60-70 euros the four channels model). To find a piece, do not use just "trovaprezzi" (or "shoppydoo" like I do): there are several further options as google.it, twenga.it, kelkoo, ciao.it, shopmania, and so on, which can give you additional results.

--------- an italian summary and considerations ---------

Ti lascio due note in italiano perché ho paura di come traduci il mio inglese, che pure non è granché corretto.

Non puoi comparare due sistemi così diversi come quello su cui ho fatto quelle quattro prove e quello che ti accingi a costruire.
Anche se il mio X3 è sotto-alimentato (meno tensione, meno calore), il tuo sistema dovrebbe funzionare meno "caldo" perché lo Ivy Bridge scalda un po' meno (se leggi la prova del 2500K qui su SPCR, la differenza di temperatura rispetto ai Phenom va da 1°C a 5°C sotto carico), e comunque dovrebbe sopportare meglio la temperatura perché ha un Tcase max (la temperatura della placca di metallo a contatto col dissipatore) di circa 10-11°C superiore (62°C circa per i Phenom II, oltre 72°C per gli Intel).
Non è possibile essere più precisi anche perché i programmi per gli Intel non leggono direttamente il Tcase max ma il Tjmax (che è solitamente di 99/100°C ed ha una relazione complessa con il Tcase, fortemente dipendente dalla temperatura ambiente, tant'è che il Tcase per i desktop Intel lo da per temperature interne al case non superiori a 43,5°C).

Per cui mentre il mio sistema non può andare sotto carico con le ventole sotto i 700rpm (almeno, pensando di tenerlo sempre acceso, 24 ore al giorno, 7 giorni su 7), ci sono margini perché il tuo Ivy Bridge possa forse farlo: margini però da verificare in concreto.
Anche perché i miei numeri si riferiscono ad una temperatura ambiente di soli 18-19°C: con 25-30°C potresti essere costretto ad alzare la velocità delle ventole, ed il comportamento del sistema cambia anche rispetto alla "storia" dello sforzo. Dopo varie ore a convertire video, dopo giorni sempre acceso, la temperatura torna molto più lentamente ai valori "idle", a volte non vi ritorna e basta perché il calore si è accumulato ed i moti convettivi a bassa velocità non riescono a smaltirlo, non in fretta (un po' come la sabbia in spiaggia d'estate).

Queste congetture però lasciano il tempo che trovano, devi provare direttamente perché molti fattori influiscono, per esempio l'invecchiamento dei componenti, che il funzionamento ad alta temperatura ambiente accelera.
Per farti un esempio, ho un media center con un Athlon II X3 420e, una CPU da 45W: da nuovo riuscivo a raffreddarlo a pieno carico tenendo la ventola sotto gli 800rpm, oggi devo tenerla sopra i 1000rpm ed ancora non ho capito perché le cose siano cambiate.
Il mio consiglio è di montare il PC "nudo" sulla scrivania, qualcosa di isolante sotto la scheda madre, e di farci un po' di prove (Prime95, FurMark, OCCT, Handbrake) per qualche giorno, per vedere quanto scalda la CPU: in base ai valori che ottieni, poi ordini il case che meglio pensi possa funzionare nel tuo specifico caso, ipotizzando un incremento delle temperature di almeno 3-5°C per via del box chiuso. Non è il massimo, ma è sempre meglio che scegliere i componenti sulla carta: secondo me, ovvio.

Per quanto riguarda il case, il LanBoy non mi sembra una gran soluzione, perché da tutti quei buchi passa troppo rumore, anche il poco che fanno due ventole a basso numero di giri, per non parlare delle vibrazioni e dei rumori elettronici, mascherati invece dal case.
Inoltre imparerai che, col tempo, cambierà pure la tua percezione: appena accenderai il giocattolo dirai "Oh, non si sente!". E dopo un po' invece imparerai a riconoscere il suo "suono", ed a sopportarlo un po' di meno.

In bocca al lupo!

--------- an italian summary and considerations ---------