I understand some may be sceptic, for further discussion I just hope you will believe the pictures and the descriptions I give you of my project. I can for shure admit it has been alot of challenges and months of planning and troubleshooting. As you can see of the pictures there is a HFX classic case underneath and that project gave me alot of experience with heatpipes.
The heatpipes is actually not the bottleneck (HFX claime each can handle 33W, scepitcs on net tested them and concluded with 20W for shure and probably 25W). So, 8 heatpipes can handle at least 160W, probably 200W and acording to HFX 264W. And if still in doupt you could ad another 4 heatpipes and make it 12, the HFX parts are very adaptable. I believe the botleneck here is the amount of aluminium in the heatsinks and the surface that dessipates heat (and roomtemperature of course and this must everyone take acount for themselves, as Streacom also say). That is the reason why I conclude that if the FC5 can take away heat from the 660ti then the FC10 should be able to handle the heat from the 670 (20W higher tdp) since the FC10 has alot bigger heatsinks (the FC5 is 6 cm high and the FC10 is 10 cm high with about same depth). Of course I haven't built the FC10 with GTX670, witch I am open about, so everyone must do theire own math and surtenly if they want to build it. But I feel that is a part of the excitement when building something new, I took my chanses with my project.
The PC was finished just a few days ago, so it still has to stand the test of time. At the moment it is actually the VRM circuit that gets the hottest. The heatsink is made for airflow so I think I chould change it for something better. I consider ordering another heatsink pack for VGA from HFX, this should also be possible to mount on the mosfets. If it covers the mosfets well it will for shure take the heat away.
I am usually not active on these forums but I saw the title on this thread and I felt I had to inform you of my project. I do actually not play alot of games, but somethimes I like to take a brake with a cargame. I am interested in technics and good design (important here since its supposed to be in my livingroom). Is it possible? was my main motivation through the project. I have also studied several reviews on SPCR, also the one of the FC5 case. There they mentioned the other heatsink that was not in use. In the HFX classic case I used the other heatsink for a descreat graphic card, the HD3870, tdp 105W, and this card has worked for over 5 years. If you don't feel shure about the FC10 the heatsinks on the HFX classic will for shure take the heat from the GTX 670 (and it takes full ATX MB), but it's a heavy case and I think the design on the FC10 is better.
If not to take the chance on the GTX670, the GTX660ti will work for shure in the FC10 since it seem to work in the FC5 (I will be more shure after some months of gaming). To avoid the moding of the backplate (the 660/670 is 17 cm long) you could modify the chiose two steps further down and go for the GTX 650ti (14,5 cm long). The FC5 is 31,9 cm inside the case, the FC10 may be the same or a bit shorter (Streacom has later confirmed the inside dimension to 90 mm high and 304 mm deep). PSU-15cm + 650 14,5 cm = 29,5, or the 660/670 17 cm = 32 cm. With the 650ti you would be safe for shure about the heat, just 15W over the recommended max of 95W (the 650ti is still better than HD7750). The producers will always be conservative on their recommendations on max watts to avoid complaints. On the FC5 I put thermal paste between the heatsink and the front plate (1 cm thick). Since the heatsinks probably are the botleneck I beleave this gives som extra watts in heatdessipation. I have also a set of extra 4 heatpipes I can ad on the GPU and channel them to the back and outside the case where I can put on some extra heatsinks, if I find it necessary.
How to fit the PSU inside the FC10: I explained the depth above. The FC5 is 6 cm and the FC10 is 10 cm, this gives 4 cm extra. The FC5 is 5,5 cm high on the inside, so then the inside of the FC10 should be 9,5 cm (Streacom has later confirmed 9,0 cm). This is enough for an ATX PSU witch is 8,6 cm. If there should lack a few mm just cut a square hole in the top plate, this should be good for airflow aswell. The FC5 is 38 cm wide inside and I think the FC10 is the same. With an mini-itx card (my recommendation is the MB from Asus since it has a good powersupport so it supports graphic cards) the MB is 17 cm wide and the Seasonic is 16 cm long = 33 cm witch gives a few cm left for the side of the MB and cables between the PSU and heatsinks. See my picture of the FC5 and the location of the bluerayplayer. This is where you put the PSU in the FC10, since the bluerayplayer here is on the other side. The tray for the bluerayplayer must be cut of and supported underneath. There is a litle card for the powerswitch in the corner, but you will have som room for the cables anyway so it should go fine. If someone want to try this they must be prepared to modify the case, for example drilling holes in the topplate above the PSU and drilling holes to mount the HFX heatpipes.
I have tried to answer the questions above in detail so others better can understand (and judge) the project and my choises. And hopefully give a good enough guide so that others can try the same. I hope someone could take the chanse on building the FC10 with a graphic card and internal PSU, it would be great to see. I don't think it will be me, I am done troubleshooting for a while.
Here are some pictures:
Hope you think it's possible too!