For those on the fence interested in more information, I can also confirm that these PSUs follow conventional wiring colors so you can use standard atx pinouts (search google--I like the ones at pinouts DOT ru & helpwithpcs DOT com & wikipedia; I'm not allowed to post url's yet, sorry)--with a couple of caveats discussed a few paragraphs down.
You should probably be able to use an old 20 or 24 pin connector (and wires cut to the appropriate length for the case). I say 20 or 24 pin because although 24 pin is ATX 2.x, apparently most ATX 2.x motherboards will still accept the older 20 pin configuration. The extra 4 pins are for additional power demands. But this is not a psu for a Core i7 or i9 system with a good graphics card (not even an efficient ATI 5850 or Nvidia 460). You may also need to do some a little extra soldering for extra sata connectors etc.
Now for the caveats. This psu, being rated for 235 watts, was not really designed for a true 24 pin plug so there are a couple of wires missing--which should not be a problems unless you are really pushing the amps on those particular rails. I don't have the psu in front of me, so I don't remember if it is missing a 3.3 (orange) or 5 volt (red) wire. As I did not realize the Intel Jetgyser motherboard could use a 20 pin plug until after I did the soldering, I just soldered two wires onto one of the existing psu wires so I would have enough to fill all the pins. Of course, I'm still limited to the same amount of amps on that rail, but there is no way I'll ever come close to using it up with the system I built (see earlier post).
There are a couple of other wires you will not have--but these are not needed. They include, if memory serves me correctly, the white wire for pin 20 (totally optional, used for old atx 1.2 or earlier mbs) and the 3.3 sensing wire (brown) that cohabits with the orange wire on pin 13. Just cut the brown wire on the atx plug you salvage from somewhere and you will be fine. I have my computer running non-stop and have never had a single power or other problem (including no ground faulting or similar problem described by another poster).
For those with limited soldering experience (as I had before this project), cut the atx connector to leave a little more wire as you will need for your case (if I remember correctly, I probably left about 7 inches because I had a very small case). Then slip on some heatshrink tubing (I used 1/8" diameter adhesive lined tubing, which I cut to 1" lengths), strip wire about 1/2" and bend the ends of the striped wire to make 1/4" "U's", slip the corresponding ends from the atx connector and psu and twist each end to make a mechanical joint just in case your solder (and adhesive shrink tubing) fail; tin the tip of your soldering iron with some solder (I used 60-40 Rosin Core Solder for the whole job), solder by staking the twisted wires on top of the soldering iron, and placing the solder on top so the heat conducted through the wire melts the solder--if you cheat and heat the solder directly, called cold soldering I believe, you risk the soldering breaking loose--but for those that can't resist the temptation, the mechanical connection will probably save you). If it doesn't seem to be working, you probably forgot to tin the tip of the soldering iron--which makes it much more heat conductive. Then use the solder iron (below the tinned tip) to carefully and quickly melt the shrink wrap down--being careful not to come in contact with the wires, which will quickly melt away exposing the wire and creating short, shock, and fire hazards.
Once you do 20+ wires, you won't be a complete novice anymore! (probably took me an hour for the first 2 wires--b/c I hadn't tinned the tip; and an hour for the remaining 22 wires). It's not a big project if all you do is change the atx connector, add some sata connectors, and leave the case and fan stock.
Thanks for providing good details. This was really helpful when soldered ATX connector. BTW I also soldered Molex to support HDDs using 21-24 PIN which are not being by my mother board.