The Nexus 120mm fan corner cutting guide...

Tibors · Last edited by Tibors on Sun Jan 30, 2005 1:51 pm; edited 1 time in total

All images are clickable for larger versions.

The problem
Some case fans like the Nexus 120mm Real Silent case fan have "closed" corners. Most case fans have two flanges with a hole on each corner. With the "closed" corner fans each hole is connected by a tube to the corresponding hole on the opposite flange. I don't know if you can still understand me, so maybe some pictures will make it more clear.

The orange fan has "closed" corners. The black fan has the more standard corners.

These tubes sit in the way if you want to use vibration dampening rubber fan mounts. Also when mounting such fans on a Thermalright XP-120, the tubes get in the way of the mounting clips. Well, if the tubes are unwanted, they have to go.

The Dremel Solution
I put an already used brown cutting disk in my Dremel. Use the thickest cutting disk you have. Don't forget to put your goggles on. Little pieces of orange plastic will be flying everywhere. My Dremel has a variable speed from 10.000RPM to 33.000RPM. I set the speed switch to the second "click". You shouldn't use too high speeds, 'cause then the plastic will melt.

First cut two groves through the tube parallel and flush with the flanges. Then cut the rest of the tube into "fingers" that are a little wider than the thickness of the cutting disk. Next cut right through the middle of each "finger". The last bits of plastic are removed by gently tilting the cutting disk a little. (N.B. Never tilt the cutting disk when working with harder materials! The disk could splinter and parts of it could lodge themself into vital parts of your anatomy.)

Use your fingers to remove all (almost) loose pieces of plasic. Then smooth out the surface of the remaining plastic ridge by running the cutting disk over it.

The result:

The Hand Tool Solution
First use a hacksaw to saw two groves through the tube parallel and flush with the flanges.

Then take some pliers. Use them to squeeze hard on the tube. It will break into pieces.

Lastly use a small file to smooth out the edges.

Conclusion
Using hand tools, it takes me less than half the time to open a corner, compared to using a rotary tool. Not to mention that with the Dremel you end up with pieces of orange plastic in your hair and all over the room.

If anybody has other ideas (Blow torch? Chainsaw?) how to open the corners, feel free to add them.

Don't take the text in this post to serious. I was bored this afternoon. But now we have pretty pictures to point too, when people ask about the "closed" corner problem.

Edit: Added 120mm to the title, as I saw several people on the forum think other sizes had closed corners too.
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Pgh · Joined: 24 May 2003 Posts: 176

Thanks Tibors - I never would of thought of the "crush and file" method.

Sort of reminds me of the PTF-PTM method - Pound to fit, paint to match.

nick705 · Joined: 23 Mar 2004 Posts: 1154 Location: UK

I've wanted to do this for a number of different reasons, but I've always been a bit worried it might somehow affect the noise characteristics... maybe detract from the rigidity of the frame, or perhaps even the gripping/cutting might bend something very slightly out of shape, cause slight damage to the bearing etc...

I'm know I'm probably being a paranoid old woman (and the fans aren't exactly expensive) but can you confirm there are no adverse effects?

sthayashi · Posted: Thu Jan 13, 2005 10:09 am Post subject:

Very Nice

, I like it. One minor suggestion I would have is to list the name/model number of the specific cutting tool that you used with the Dremel. It may be helpful for others in the future when they try and figure out which cutting disk to use.
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bomba · Joined: 16 Jan 2004 Posts: 320 Location: USA

I've used my (woodworker's) table saw to open the closed corners on globe 120's. I venture to say it's the fastest & most dangerous method, no filing required, just watch those fingers!
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Tibors · Posted: Thu Jan 13, 2005 11:28 am Post subject:

luminous · Patron of SPCR Joined: 04 Oct 2003 Posts: 717 Location: UK

A nice thread here. Thanks for the info, I've been thinking about ways to cut my shoulders out. The plier squashing technique sounds sufficiently destructive to be fun Smile

Edward Ng · Posted: Thu Jan 13, 2005 1:44 pm Post subject:

Now a sticky.

-Ed
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Tibors · Posted: Fri Jan 14, 2005 3:29 am Post subject:

greeef · Joined: 15 Apr 2004 Posts: 354

I cut mine out with a jewelers coping saw, just cut all the way round.

griff

vbmech · Joined: 07 Jan 2005 Posts: 14

Just another stupid method... but I used my tin snips and gouged out the corner bits then filed them down. Probably just as quick as a hacksaw but a bit messier.

hugekebab · Joined: 08 Sep 2004 Posts: 110

im clearly going to be flamed to hell and beyond, but why are you cutting the tuybes, is it to allow suspension or a different type of grommet insertion?

thx

Ralf Hutter · Posted: Sun Jan 30, 2005 6:40 am Post subject:

hugekebab · Joined: 08 Sep 2004 Posts: 110

k cheers m8.

zenith · Joined: 07 Jun 2004 Posts: 43 Location: norway

I do have some problems with loading large versions of the images. Even loading the small ones takes really long time.

Tibors · Posted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 3:44 pm Post subject:

york · Joined: 20 Dec 2004 Posts: 91 Location: Florida, US

I decided to try this method even though I do not own a xp 120 yet Very Happy

It was also an excuse to use the dremel. Like Tibors 1st post I used a cutting disk to flush out the tube with the end of the fans frame, but instead of cutting fingers in the tube frame I used a drum sander bit to cut the tube out. Also my computer seems to be running much quieter now then again it could be the fact I have not yet taken out my earplugs.

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Gorganzola · Joined: 08 Oct 2003 Posts: 13

I used my Dremel with the #225 Flex-Shaft Attachment and the cutting wheel to make the cuts at the ends. Then I used a #9901 Tungsten Carbide Cutter to clean out everything in between. It did a nice job and was easy to use, especially with the flexshaft.

WIL · Joined: 01 Jun 2004 Posts: 10 Location: UK

Thanks for this guide, it has helped me tremendously!
I'm not a DIY person so this was the first time I picked up a saw since school, and I probably won't be using a saw ever again which is a relief. Oh the horror!
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niels007 · Joined: 22 Nov 2004 Posts: 444

LOL WIL! Great that you had the guts to mod that fan! I am a diy person but still was a bit scared going at my Nexus fan with a hacksaw, and huge pliers.. Worked a treat though, thanks for the clear guide mr T! Smile

Michael Sandstrom · Joined: 13 Oct 2004 Posts: 588 Location: Albany, GA USA

For those who own utility knives the frame of the Nexus 120mm is so soft that cutting out the corners is dead simple with even the most basic of tools.

Aracu · Joined: 21 Apr 2005 Posts: 30

From chopping away at a Nexus fan with some tin snips, I found out half accidently, that if you cut out completely one side of the outer fan rim so that the fan blade is uncovered on that side, the fan still works, and a huge
breeze can be directed at hard to get to spots on the motherboard
by mounting that side strategically. I pointed it so the cut off side of the fan is cooling the ram, the chipset, and helping to cool the cpu, while the main part of the fan is blowing directly on the video card.

LH · Joined: 18 Oct 2004 Posts: 64 Location: San Francisco, CA

When using the saw-and-crush technique, you really only need to crush the tubes on the two "thick" corners. For the two "thin" corners, you can just grip the tube firmly and then bend it down, using a motion similar to snapping a twig. This will snap off the tube cleanly and leave clearance all around the fan hole. Just make sure the cuts at the ends of the tube go all the way through the tube before trying to snap off the tube.

For the two "thick" corners (that have no visible tube), I made a cut through the middle of the tube, parallel to the two cuts at the ends of the tube. This makes it easier to crush, since more pressure could be applied on a smaller portion of the tube. You'll have to crush twice, but you won't need the strength of He-Man. This really helps, especially when you have to crush the corners for eleven fans Shocked

, like I did... Laughing

luminous · Patron of SPCR Joined: 04 Oct 2003 Posts: 717 Location: UK

Hmmm, I just did the hacksaw, cornering crushing technique on my fan. I was very careful not to put pressure on the bearings when doing this....but...well....it now makes a loud humming noise... Oh well, time for a new fan, and my dremel... Smile

Fat_bloater_dave · *Lifetime Patron* Joined: 22 Oct 2005 Posts: 288

Damn, i Tryed it, i cracked the fan case. So i just hooked it on without cutting the corners off, it stays on fine and the crack doesnt even make it produce anymore noise.

qdemn7 · Joined: 08 Dec 2005 Posts: 42 Location: Fort Worth, Texas

Tibors, thanks for the excellent post and pics. Looking at your closeups of the Nexxus fan and the fact it already has "starter" holes, it looks like a nice fat drill bit, and your Dremel on high speed would cut right through in about 10 seconds. Am I wrong?

nici · Posted: Fri Dec 09, 2005 3:56 pm Post subject:

LEATHERMAN tool. Cant live without one. Wink

Firetech

Ralf Hutter

Firetech · Posted: Sun Dec 25, 2005 11:56 am Post subject: Thanks Ralf

Thanks Ralf! Very Happy

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