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PostPosted: Fri Apr 23, 2010 10:25 am 
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Finally I made the cables and photo so you ca buy this dual PSU kits.
I have only 7 complete kits and I did not decided if I will build more but you can find all necessary parts on eBay.
You can find the cable I used on eBay the ATX Y cable 9" is the eBay item number 360214602674 and the P4 Y cables are eBay item number 130354271054 they are sold by the same seller the other ATX cable you can get from me.
Also you will need an AC adapter (brick) to use with this kit and you can purchase that from eBay for 46.9$ is a 220W 20V 11A and the eBay item number is 260416839732 there are a lot of them on eBay
You just need to write the eBay item number in the eBay search field and you will see the item.

This is the price list YY is for 2 x 130W Yellow PSU the YG is for one 130W and one 120W PSU and the GG is for 2 x 120W Green PSU
Image
I think this photo is self explanatory an in this photo is a YG kit. The PSU "A" will supply power to motherboard and video card and PSU "B" will supply power to CPU, HDD and ODD
Image
ZOOM
This is just an example of how to connect the PSUs to a motherboard is just a passive Atom N270 board so I have no P4 connector for CPU but is the only board I have for photo
Image
ZOOM
This is a connexion diagram
Image
ZOOM

If you want to buy this just send me a PM with what you need and I will send you may email PayPal address or send me your PayPal email address and I will send you an invoice.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 30, 2010 10:39 am 
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electrodacus, I only saw the DC-DC converter boards available from your ebay listings. Which adapter is included with the Y5 package and is it still available for purchase? If it's not available, do you have a specific model that you recommend to pair with your boards? I believe ebay item #220595790610 is the "Li Shin AC Adapter 20V 8A" that quietdragon mentioned earlier and is using in his customized setup. Are there any issues with that? i.e. pin/voltage are aligned correctly to use without modification. Unfortunately I am unable to direct link the pinout diagram because of my low post count, but it is available at www . pchub . com/uph/photos/item/6331657781306150002_0226A20160_4-pin.JPG


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 30, 2010 5:18 pm 
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agheno wrote:
electrodacus, I only saw the DC-DC converter boards available from your ebay listings. Which adapter is included with the Y5 package and is it still available for purchase? If it's not available, do you have a specific model that you recommend to pair with your boards? I believe ebay item #220595790610 is the "Li Shin AC Adapter 20V 8A" that quietdragon mentioned earlier and is using in his customized setup. Are there any issues with that? i.e. pin/voltage are aligned correctly to use without modification. Unfortunately I am unable to direct link the pinout diagram because of my low post count, but it is available at www . pchub . com/uph/photos/item/6331657781306150002_0226A20160_4-pin.JPG


The Y5 kit is sold out but you can buy the Y2 and the Li Shin AC adapter the pinout is exactly what you need for the 130W winmate so no modifications needed.

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PostPosted: Fri May 07, 2010 3:52 am 
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I got a question, if my itx case can only allow me to plug a 2.5mm dc jack, can your extension cable fit it?


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PostPosted: Sat May 08, 2010 9:55 am 
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bearbb wrote:
I got a question, if my itx case can only allow me to plug a 2.5mm dc jack, can your extension cable fit it?



You can use a 2.5mm plug if you use less than 90W There are two way you can supply my ATX PSU one is through 4 pin din connector and the other using a P4 connector Image
At the other end of the P4 you can use anything you want including a 5.5mm x 2.5mm laptop stile connector Image

Best regards,
Dacian.

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PostPosted: Sat May 08, 2010 1:15 pm 
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Thanks for the reply.

I still got some more questions:

1. Why 90W only if I use 2.5mm plug? So I can't use a 150W ac adaptor if I use 2.5mm plug?

2. Will you send me the P4 connector as well? Am I need to DIY the cable by myself?

3. What's the diameter of the 4 pin din connector? Is it 2.5mm?

Thanks


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PostPosted: Sun May 09, 2010 10:56 pm 
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bearbb wrote:
Thanks for the reply.

I still got some more questions:

1. Why 90W only if I use 2.5mm plug? So I can't use a 150W ac adaptor if I use 2.5mm plug?

2. Will you send me the P4 connector as well? Am I need to DIY the cable by myself?

3. What's the diameter of the 4 pin din connector? Is it 2.5mm?

Thanks


1. At 20V 90W will be 5A and 5A is max spec for the 2.5mm plug You will find some companies that will use this connector for 7A or more but I will not recommend since is not designed for that current .
2. The P4 connector is optional in case you will not use the 4 pin din connector and you will probably need to DIY the cable yourself. I have some cables and 2.5mm connectors that I need to solder on the P4 cables to sell them together with 75W AC adapters that I have on stock this are not great quality AC adapters I will probably sell them for 19$ including the cable and 2.5mm connector.
3.The actual connector is 10mm I do not know the pin diameter probably about 2mm or more but the spec is 7A/pin so you can use this type of connector for up to 14A since there are 4 pins.

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PostPosted: Thu May 13, 2010 8:31 am 
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Although I received my 130w circuit earlier in the week, I ordered the 150w laptop power adapter separately and it didn't arrive until last night. After plugging everything in I hit the power button and instead of the gentle hum of a computer starting up I just get silence. I traced all the cables, made sure the connections were tight, then I realized I forgot to plug in the power adapter -- doh. With the power brick plugged in now, I hit the power button and again, nothing. This time I took it all apart, reattached everything, hit the power and again got nothing. Keep in mind that I have only the bare minimum attached right now: motherboard, cpu, heatsink/fan, and some ram. I triple check that the power switch is connected to the motherboard, the motherboard is connected to the 130w PSU, the PSU is connected to the 150w power adapter, and the power adapter is connected to the wall. Everything looks good but it just isn't working.

This is a brand new system so my next thought is that one of the components is bad. I rip a 650w Seasonic PSU out of another computer, plug it in, hit the power, and the cpu fan started spinning. So now I know the core components are working.

While sitting there thinking about how to troubleshoot the 130w I noticed that the laptop adapter (still plugged into the wall) has a green power LED lit up. I reconnect the 130w psu to the motherboard and as soon as I plug it into the laptop adapter the green LED (on the adapter) turns off. I get the same results with and without the included short 4-pin extension cable. It almost seems like some protection circuit is kicking in to prevent damage to the power adapter whenever it's attached to the 130w board.

Given this behavior, is my 130w circuit defective?


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PostPosted: Sat May 15, 2010 11:39 pm 
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agheno wrote:
Although I received my 130w circuit earlier in the week, I ordered the 150w laptop power adapter separately and it didn't arrive until last night. After plugging everything in I hit the power button and instead of the gentle hum of a computer starting up I just get silence. I traced all the cables, made sure the connections were tight, then I realized I forgot to plug in the power adapter -- doh. With the power brick plugged in now, I hit the power button and again, nothing. This time I took it all apart, reattached everything, hit the power and again got nothing. Keep in mind that I have only the bare minimum attached right now: motherboard, cpu, heatsink/fan, and some ram. I triple check that the power switch is connected to the motherboard, the motherboard is connected to the 130w PSU, the PSU is connected to the 150w power adapter, and the power adapter is connected to the wall. Everything looks good but it just isn't working.

This is a brand new system so my next thought is that one of the components is bad. I rip a 650w Seasonic PSU out of another computer, plug it in, hit the power, and the cpu fan started spinning. So now I know the core components are working.

While sitting there thinking about how to troubleshoot the 130w I noticed that the laptop adapter (still plugged into the wall) has a green power LED lit up. I reconnect the 130w psu to the motherboard and as soon as I plug it into the laptop adapter the green LED (on the adapter) turns off. I get the same results with and without the included short 4-pin extension cable. It almost seems like some protection circuit is kicking in to prevent damage to the power adapter whenever it's attached to the 130w board.

Given this behavior, is my 130w circuit defective?


Hi the AC adapter have a wrong pinout not compatible with the 130W ATX PSU you need to modifies the extension cable to get the right pinout do you have the spec or model of your 150W AC adapter.

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PostPosted: Sun May 16, 2010 3:53 am 
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I ordered the LI Shin 0226A20160 20V 8A 4-PIN DIN Plug AC Adapter, http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 0595790610


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PostPosted: Sun May 16, 2010 10:42 am 
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agheno wrote:
I ordered the LI Shin 0226A20160 20V 8A 4-PIN DIN Plug AC Adapter, http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 0595790610


This is what you have now or you ordered another one? From what I know this 160W Li-Shin have the right pinout.
When the LED on power brick is off it mean that you have a short circuit and this is possible since is a 4 pin connector ant if the pinout is wrong then the brick sc protection will work.
And as I mentioned before I test every ATX PSU I send just before sending so I know you have a good PSU.
Let me know how it works.

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PostPosted: Sun May 16, 2010 6:50 pm 
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electrodacus wrote:
agheno wrote:
I ordered the LI Shin 0226A20160 20V 8A 4-PIN DIN Plug AC Adapter, http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 0595790610


This is what you have now or you ordered another one? From what I know this 160W Li-Shin have the right pinout.
When the LED on power brick is off it mean that you have a short circuit and this is possible since is a 4 pin connector ant if the pinout is wrong then the brick sc protection will work.
And as I mentioned before I test every ATX PSU I send just before sending so I know you have a good PSU.
Let me know how it works.
That is what I have now. Since I don't have the equipment to modify the pinout of that LI Shin, do you have any other suggestions on what I should replace it with?


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PostPosted: Mon May 17, 2010 3:50 pm 
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agheno wrote:

That is what I have now. Since I don't have the equipment to modify the pinout of that LI Shin, do you have any other suggestions on what I should replace it with?


Others have reported that this AC adapter have the right pin-out for winmate probably you got some different AC adapter if you can find the pinout of your AC adapter I can make an adapter cable for you at no charge maybe you can make a photo with the back of your AC adapter the part with the info.
According to the ebay add you listed you have this model Link that is with the right pinout but maybe you got a different model than advertised.
Image

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 02, 2010 4:50 pm 
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Finally got my system up an running using the package I bought a while ago (DC/DC + Gateway Adapter).

Is 100W @ load (60W @ idle) too much to run this thing fanless? The PCB gets "hot" - not intolerably so, but enough that I think I should add a slow 80mm fan infront of it.

It's worth noting that I mounted it upside down (molex face down).
EDIT- I added a 900RPM Nexus 80mm fan blowing across the 12V section.

Also wondering if the molex connector off the PSU delivers 12V and 5V?
EDIT- Yep, looked at the traces and it powers my fans up. Perfect spot to plug in a fan adapter :)

The system it's powering is:
E8400 @ 1.1V BIOS
Asus P5E-VM HDMI (onboard video)
WD10EACS
DVD-RW

Thanks

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 03, 2010 1:43 pm 
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zoob wrote:
Finally got my system up an running using the package I bought a while ago (DC/DC + Gateway Adapter).

Is 100W @ load (60W @ idle) too much to run this thing fanless? The PCB gets "hot" - not intolerably so, but enough that I think I should add a slow 80mm fan infront of it.

The system it's powering is:
E8400 @ 1.1V BIOS
Asus P5E-VM HDMI (onboard video)
WD10EACS
DVD-RW

Thanks


60W idle seems a bit high for your system. I do not think that the ATX PSU needs any fan especially if you have a case fan. Some component may be hot but they are designed to work at high temperature so there will be no problem.
Thanks for posting your experience.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 07, 2010 10:32 am 
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This looks like a very nice and well made product.

Unfortunately, it wouldn't work in my system any better than the Pico150 that I tried, as it seems my Nova-T 500 TV tuner card draws too much current from one of the lines. I asked Hauppauge and they said it draws 7-10W from the 3.3v.

Anyway, I'm using an mCubed EF28 now http://www.hfx.at/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=127:ef28&catid=53:accessories&Itemid=1], which provides 15A, 11A and 10A on the 12v, 5v and 3.3v lines respectively, which suits my system.

It's just a shame these units don't have a bit more power where I need it as my EF28 may well be faulty (caused 2 brand new hard drives to stop working in the last two weeks), so I could do with a replacement and mCubed don't sell the DC-DC boards on their own (I got mine as the supplier had a spare unit).

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 07, 2010 6:48 pm 
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Is this enough power for:

Intel E8400
Biostar G41-M7
2GB x 1 Viper DDR2-800 RAM
2.5 SATA HDD
ATI 5570 if yes:
Galaxy 9600 GT(No 6-pin needed)

And
Future build
MITX or MATX i3/i5 board
Core i3 530
2GB DDR3-1333
2.5 SATA HDD
ATI 5570 if yes:
Galaxy 9600 GT?


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 11:40 am 
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doveman wrote:
This looks like a very nice and well made product.

Unfortunately, it wouldn't work in my system any better than the Pico150 that I tried, as it seems my Nova-T 500 TV tuner card draws too much current from one of the lines. I asked Hauppauge and they said it draws 7-10W from the 3.3v.

Anyway, I'm using an mCubed EF28 now http://www.hfx.at/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=127:ef28&catid=53:accessories&Itemid=1], which provides 15A, 11A and 10A on the 12v, 5v and 3.3v lines respectively, which suits my system.

It's just a shame these units don't have a bit more power where I need it as my EF28 may well be faulty (caused 2 brand new hard drives to stop working in the last two weeks), so I could do with a replacement and mCubed don't sell the DC-DC boards on their own (I got mine as the supplier had a spare unit).


Well 7 to 10W out of 3.3V is not that much but it depends on your other components. For example my computer the one in the signature only uses max 1.5A on the 3.3V so your TV tuner will work without problem on my motherboard since the 3.3V line can provide 5A and the TV tuner need less than 3A. But then again the Pico150 can also provide 5A and it did not work for you so not sure.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 11:52 am 
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yetidaddy wrote:
Is this enough power for:

Intel E8400
Biostar G41-M7
2GB x 1 Viper DDR2-800 RAM
2.5 SATA HDD
ATI 5570 if yes:
Galaxy 9600 GT(No 6-pin needed)

And
Future build
MITX or MATX i3/i5 board
Core i3 530
2GB DDR3-1333
2.5 SATA HDD
ATI 5570 if yes:
Galaxy 9600 GT?


The 5570 is using about 43W and the 9600 GT even more so with 65W E8400 CPU and G41 this will be to much for one winmate PSU.
With a core i3 530 and 5570 it may work at the limit but I will not recommend.
For one winmate PSU I can only recommend one 65W CPU + MB + HDD + max 20W passive video card this will be a 5450.
Or you can use any CPU up to 95W and any videocard that dose not have an external supply connector including the 9600GT with two winmate PSU.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 24, 2010 2:29 pm 
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electrodacus wrote:
Well 7 to 10W out of 3.3V is not that much but it depends on your other components. For example my computer the one in the signature only uses max 1.5A on the 3.3V so your TV tuner will work without problem on my motherboard since the 3.3V line can provide 5A and the TV tuner need less than 3A. But then again the Pico150 can also provide 5A and it did not work for you so not sure.


I've just replaced my aging AGP Gigabyte Socket 478 motherboard with a spanking new Biostar PCI Socket AM2+ board but when I tried using the EF28 it still was shutting down (screen going completely blank, nothing working but fans still spinning), so I think it's clearly faulty. The EF28 did work with my old P4 system for about a year before problems developed, which seems to confirm that it's developed a fault.

I'm not sure but the problems might have started sometime after I replaced an old FX5600 graphics card, which didn't have an external power socket, with a 2600XT Pro which does, but I don't think it draws much from them and it was wired directly to the Dell DA-2 brick anyway, so not drawing from the EF28.

Having said that, the hard drive had been having problems long before I changed the graphics card, which I'd just put down to the hard drive aging, but now I think it was probably the EF28 which was causing them.

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2nd PC: Bach VX, GA-MA780G-UD3H, PhII 720BE @ 3.2Ghz (SI-128SE/Yate Loon fan), 8GB Kingston Hyper-X DDR2 1066MHz, Yate Loon 140mm intake, Nexus 120mm exhaust, HD103UJ, WD6400AAKS, Nexus Value 430W


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 10:31 pm 
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I currently have the Winmate and an Alienware 220W adapter. I plan to move my system into an Antec ISK300-65 case. The Antec case comes with the following adapter.

Can I re-use this adapter or should I just mod the case to use the extension included with the Winmate.

Image

Image

Image


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 31, 2010 3:59 pm 
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sdheda wrote:
I currently have the Winmate and an Alienware 220W adapter. I plan to move my system into an Antec ISK300-65 case. The Antec case comes with the following adapter.

Can I re-use this adapter or should I just mod the case to use the extension included with the Winmate.


Yes you can reuse the cable from the photo it seems to have the right polarity so no problem.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 05, 2010 9:54 am 
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I'm putting a new HTPC together:

Gigabyte GA-H55N-USB3 motherboard
Intel i3-530 CPU
Corsair XMS3 4GB (2GBx2) DDR3 PC3-12800 1600MHz ram
Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA hard drive
APEX MI-008 Black Mini-ITX Case

I'll be adding a DVD or Blu-ray drive in the future.

Will one be enough to power this?

Thanks,
Mike


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 07, 2010 10:55 am 
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xj-boonie wrote:
I'm putting a new HTPC together:

Gigabyte GA-H55N-USB3 motherboard
Intel i3-530 CPU
Corsair XMS3 4GB (2GBx2) DDR3 PC3-12800 1600MHz ram
Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA hard drive
APEX MI-008 Black Mini-ITX Case

I'll be adding a DVD or Blu-ray drive in the future.

Will one be enough to power this?

Thanks,
Mike


Hi Mike,
Yes it will be more than enough.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 07, 2010 3:30 pm 
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Location: Urbana, IL
I might need another, re'doing some things on my wifes pc, and your PSU with the right brick might be good enough, I'll know after I killawatt it


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 08, 2010 7:52 pm 
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electrodacus wrote:
xj-boonie wrote:
I'm putting a new HTPC together:

Gigabyte GA-H55N-USB3 motherboard
Intel i3-530 CPU
Corsair XMS3 4GB (2GBx2) DDR3 PC3-12800 1600MHz ram
Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA hard drive
APEX MI-008 Black Mini-ITX Case

I'll be adding a DVD or Blu-ray drive in the future.

Will one be enough to power this?

Thanks,
Mike


Hi Mike,
Yes it will be more than enough.


Thanks! One other question - how much wattage do I need for a brick, and where do I find one?


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 2:36 pm 
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Location: France
Hello,
Actually I was wondering the same thing.
Let's say the system draws about 80W at full load (broad estimate), we're using the IGP from the CPU of course.

So you'd need in input:
    80 / ( 0.88 ) = 91W DC
assuming 88% from the circuitry.
If you have a brick rated at 19VDC for example, it would need to deliver at least:
    80 / ( 0.88 * 19 ) = 4.8A

Besides, if you use a good power brick (90% effficiency),
    80 / ( 0.88 * 0.90 ) = 101W AC
is used from the plug

Did I get it all right? If not, please correct me :wink:


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 15, 2010 5:46 am 
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Location: France
Hey,

For old-timers who prefer to use physical shops or want to minimize delivery fees/time, here are some helper search queries (you'll want to filter by language/domain name after clicking):



Watch out for terms like generic, compatible, genuine, original, used, refurbished.

The target laptop models:
* Alienware Area-51m (EA11203)
* Fujitsu A1630
* Fujitsu Amilo D1840/D1845
* Clevo 5600/5620
* Packard Bell M3,M5,M7
* Viewbook VB1500S

Important: Do not forget to check the pinout before ordering anything!. You do NOT want to short your board, do you? See previous posts for photos.

Tip: Depending on locations, brand-new items may have a warranty period. (Watch out where the vendor is incorporated)

For instance in the UK, it is up to 6 years (cf. SOGA 1979), but used items are not covered. After 6 months, you have to prove the item is defective (outside fair wear and tear), cf. SSGCR 2002
In other places of EU, warranty is minimally 2 years (cf. this page for references to adoption of CGD 1999/44/EC per country)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 27, 2010 11:41 pm 
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-- Vendor --

Joined: Sun Jul 12, 2009 10:30 am
Posts: 372
Location: Canada
discreeter wrote:
Hello,
Actually I was wondering the same thing.
Let's say the system draws about 80W at full load (broad estimate), we're using the IGP from the CPU of course.

So you'd need in input:
    80 / ( 0.88 ) = 91W DC
assuming 88% from the circuitry.
If you have a brick rated at 19VDC for example, it would need to deliver at least:
    80 / ( 0.88 * 19 ) = 4.8A

Besides, if you use a good power brick (90% effficiency),
    80 / ( 0.88 * 0.90 ) = 101W AC
is used from the plug

Did I get it all right? If not, please correct me :wink:


Nice calculation :) the ATX PSU is 88% worst case when you have the 5V and 3.3V used at maximum but most of the time you need more out of the 12V line so efficiency will be in average about 92% and will go to max 95% if you only use 12V but this is not the case. Other the that you calculations are right.
You will get a combined efficiency (ATX-PSU + Brick) of over 80% about 82% at 30W to 40W this is normal idle in a low power PC.
At the same load of 30 to 40W a conventional PSU 400W+ will be only 60 to 70% efficient.

xj-boonie
I will recommend a 120W or more for the AC adapter more is better.
I can recommended you some models on eBay just ask me on eBay.

_________________
PSU 130W fanless ATX $29.98 SALE
Quad Q8400s 2Ghz 0.925V Idle:31W load:49W
_______________________________________


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 7:07 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 31, 2010 6:48 pm
Posts: 20
Location: Outside the box
Hi!

I'm also thinking of buying and adapter for this yet-to-be-built (budget) PC:

AMD AM3 Athlon II X2 235e (45W max)
J&W RS780UVD-MKII (ATI 3200 IGP, AM2+)
1x2GB DDR2
2,5 HDD
Scythe Mugen 2
(+numerous external HDDs from a powered hub, shouldn't add significant extra)

Two questions:
1. I have an unused 65W output laptop AC adapter (+some soldering experience for the needed cable). Would this be enough for this setup? I'm also planning on underclocking & undervolting it, as I'd like a silent PC (well, apart from the fan of the mugen, but that should be ok) for office&stuff like that and some 720p playback.

2. How much would shipping be to Hungary?


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