It looks very much as if Intel crippled the board in order to enforce market segmentation. ...and... ... I don't think the monopolists at Intel are going to unleash Atom's potential any time soon. I agree wholeheartedly. I think they released this early and limited to appease the hard core / hungry...

Hey Hfat, I just got my D510MO recently too. I ordered it from www.mini-box.com, because they seemed to be the first place to get the thing in stock this January, and they are also of course the main source for the PicoPSU. I waited patiently for about 6 months for this board to come out, knowing th...

I also just popped the big stock heatsink off my board... And, seeing that you're not supposed to ever touch the CPU, I don't know that we can safely make assumptions about how the sink is attached to the board until someone actually removes the thing. In that order. And "not supposed to ever touch...

More heatsink ideas: Zalman, Thermalright, Enzotech and Arctic all have numerous heatsinks and products that would be a good idea to bump up the cooling on at least the SB chip. Arctic Silver also does thermal epoxy adhesive, which would presumably be better performing than the "thermal tape" sold w...

Sorry no time to look myself, but NCIX and many others sell SB heatsinks, probably even kits that have HS + thermal epoxy. More later. Cheers.

Very interesting HFat. I wonder if a good quiet fan, say 80mm @ 5v, would stir things up enough just to keep temps in line. I mean, it doesn't matter how much or little heat sink parts have, no flow = heat builds at about 20W. I have been thinking about strategy for wet marine environment, where it ...

Thanks Mike, great little article. Sadly, there's a conflict with the 802.11 in that precious solo PCIe slot, and the single full size PCI will likely hold (ugh) quad serial ports (dinosaur era), so I can't make them trade places either. I guess I could go USB wireless, it's plenty cheap too. And ch...

Just putting together a mobile system based on D510MO. :cry: NO LVDS. The board has blank solder pads for it. C'mon, $1.00 worth of parts, and I could have used a spare laptop screen that's just sitting here on the shelf. :cry: All the websites show LVDS as "optional". Which means unavailable in Q <...

Hi all, sorry to be so scarce these years. Any last confusion as to left vs right: RED = RIGHT, best for right handed people GREEN = LEFT, best for left handed people Wish now that you were truly ambidextrous. In an ideal world you always want to buy both Left and Right snips. Tin bashers always nee...

Depending on the thickness of the aluminum (or steel), I would have to say no problem on cutting 1.5" - 2" (40mm-50mm) holes with tin snips. I always start with maybe a 3/8" (10mm) hole (easy to drill), at the middle of the target. Then cut out a skinny spiral from there. If you are really worried a...

Hi starsky,

a fine mill file has grooves cut one way across, so the teeth are like lines across. A course one has groves cut both ways, so the teeth are like diamond pattern. The corse ones cut faster, but rougher.

Within literally 20 snips, the thing had jammed up so bad I needed 2 hands to just reopen the thing after each cut, let alone actually cutting the steel! I said in my original post, I think the cheap ones are out there just to make people give up and hire a pro who uses Wiss or another real pro bra...

Hi aston, the guage system works the other way around. Bigger number equals thinner. See http://www.mrao.cam.ac.uk/~rob/SI/sigauge.htm for guage to mm, and standard metric sheet metal thicknesses (most common for Asian products). I am still doubtfull that your case is 2mm thick, unless it's aluminum...

To aston, tin snips can do a very good job in heavier guage metal. But, you need to practice a bit beforehand, starting with a lighter guage, and you should leave a very small margin, say 1/32", for filing smooth afterwards. If it's really heavy stuff, get a sheet metal guy to cut the hole, he will ...

Very Nicely Done! My compliments. I must also extend a sincere appology for not saying hi sooner. I've been way too busy as of late to keep a regular eye on these forums. I like your approach of cables out the side, drives out the front. I wanted to try an everything-out-front approach when I built ...

I run wide open, and have never encountered EMI, although if you do a search of these forums you will find a few references to this issue, with a few posters mentioning cell phones and other things as possible problem areas. My case is the Milk crate thingy here in the galleries . I have seen conduc...

Sorry for the long home(page)less period folks. Problem rectified.

And thanks for the positive feedback

This case isn't the only thing Zalman will spring on usin North America, see Zalman Heatpipe HDD Cooler . Hope that's not old news, I've been off the forums for months (me very bad). As per the $900 - $1100 USD ballpark for a case, I see how it's in line with what they are offering, bbbbbut... maybe...

Hey joesgarage (like your nic btw) If you replaced those zipties with copper or steel wire, you could then solder the fins right where they sit. I've done lots of big stuff soldering, and it's not hard to do. It shouldn't be much harder than house plumbing. You would want to use standard plumbing ac...

Here here ;) SPCR is great b/c it dares to leave that ear splitting norm behind.... It's always a challenge to figure out just where a place like this would be best positioned in the greater fray of things. Mike seems do do a pretty bang up job. (we hopes he not minding the minions to be thinking to...

I feel that I can say with authority that head is not an issue here. In fact what you need is to have an open resevoir at the top of the loop, so that you don't have any risk of an air lock in the top of the system (at which point head would be an issue). That is how everyone does woodstove heated w...

Hey dgouldin, I hope I didn't give the impression of wanting to 'dumb it down' around here. I just thought that a really absolutely basic introduction, available from an impossible to miss link up front, would be an asset. When I think of all the non-tekkies who will find SPCR through Newsweek (peop...

We know SPCR has been slashdotted before, but this could be bigtime . I hope your new server/s are up to it :) It's about time that all the hard work that has gone into the contents of SPCR get the widespread exposure they deserve. I think a pictures-oriented big bold & up front introductory article...

Yup. Home.

No, actually that was an attempt at humor, hence the "smiley". My "...so little mind" reply to you was my over-dried attempt at humor back at you. Here's the winkies that should have followed it ;) ;) but didn't :oops: I learned all those connections by feel from so many years of dealing with syste...

In an attempt at insightfulness, Ralf Hutter wrote:Good thing you put that I/O panel on your MoBo, you wouldn't want any stray EMI to leak out of your system!

Actually Ralf, the lables help me not forget where to hook things up. So many wires, so little mind.

BTW fancontrol, BRAVO! . I am terribly remiss to not have congratulated you before posting my article. I really like your system, and the principals that make it so cool (pun intended). I like your enclosure design, and the bright blue 3M is a perfect finishing touch. You now represent Little Blue, ...

MSI CoreCell

The big question being what does it actually do?

crisspy....You are King Ghetto! Thanks for the appointment aphonos :lol: About monitor buzz, it's standard coil hum. Shake rattle and roll. I'm too lazy to glue them up. Will do it sometime I guess. And as for EMI, nope. I don't use a cell phone, my cordless doesn't mind. Maybe I'll get cancer thou...

Yup, I'm still having fun. On the quiet side, it's remarkable how quiet this thing is, given that it's got it all hangin' out ;) I can hear it, but the monitor is more annoying. The 7v Panaflo on the HSF is quieter than the Seasonic, which if you get up close gives off bearing noise. GRRRR... why wo...