Quite a lot of people hook their pcs up to a reciever, either via hdmi, S/PDIF (using optical or coax) or regular 3.5mm -> stereo rca connector. I prefer optical because you then achieve galvanic isolation, stopping electrical noise from reaching from the pc to the reciever. the actual signal over c...

Details, details ;) I concede that im not up to date on the latest crud creative has put on the market, even so, their drivers and corporate philosophy should be enough to encourage buyers to stay well clear. I suggest you read up on how they have 'dealt' with the competition before... That being sa...

I swear to onboard sound, but i use optical output, not analog Which bypasses all their lack of quality and most of their horribly broken drivers. Onboard sound bi passes all quality anyone serious about gaming or movies will not stick to crappy onboard sound. If you believe onboard sound sounds go...

I swear to onboard sound, but i use optical output, not analog

28 TB in raid setups via the network, ~1TB locally

Only use for local storage is os + apps/games, everything else i use is on the servers, so they kinda have to count...

The noise level isn't anything to brag about, but the power usage numbers are certainly very interesting for larger setups where power usage is more important than minimizing noise

Yeah, save the clamshells when you buy a new drives, they make excellent storage for a drive, offering decent protection against smaller mishaps.

I use several internal drives for backup, and they all get stored in those clamshells when not in use.

Smartmeters are a nice tool to see the consumption averaged over time, but without per-circuit monitoring it will only do so much. A kill-a-watt will give you both instant and average power usage readings on a device, which can then be used to calculate cost in a meaningful manner. I would say that ...

Looking for a laptop myself, with a lot of the same criteria.. and I've stopped at the Lenovo T410 for now, seems to be a near perfect fit, albeit a wee bit expensive for my budget (student) at 11300 NOK, should fit comfortably inside £1500 though.

half-necro, but still

here's what a norwegian hardware review site did to the P183 during their review...



full test can be read here by those who understand norwegian, I would rather suggest you avoid doing it tho, to avoid permanent brain damage...

m0002a, you keep harping on the associate professor deal, could you offer some more insight into why you think this is such a big thing? Neil, I think noone should downplay your achievements and efforts in minimizing your enviromental footprint, if everyone did that we'd have a much more comfortable...

reckon its a spam thing...

I'm not surprised at what direction this is taking in the US. Corporate America is all about profit, nothing else.

+1

Great idea

I'm running an XFX GTS 250 with Accelero S1 rev2 passively without issues..

Is it stable? is it quiet enough for you? if the answers to both questions are yes, dont give it any more thought

In the P18x you can safely mount the psu with the fan facing down, that way you also gain a few centimeters of cable lenght, which is rather nice (the 4/8pin is usually a stretch if you want to put it behind the mobo tray)

So it basically comes back to what was stated way up there in the beginning of the thread.. LGA-1156 is gimped compared to LGA-1366, there are no two ways around that. LGA-1366 on the other hand, is alot more expensive, and I have serious problems trying to justify either platform at this time, with...

Clean/vacuum the heatsink, and the air intake to the case etc.

Wow...

Thats all I have to say, really. Kudos to Mike for this amazing article. So short, but yet so good

is it just me or has the TRUE120 completely lost its value here? :lol: No, some of us bought it when it was first put on market, which is now 3 years ago and it still works fine today. It's a part that can be moved to a new build, performing perfectly adequate, only requiring a $7 bracket... I cons...

2x120 for CPU + MB, 360 for 2x 480, separate loops... would be my recommendation

2 or 3 year factory warranty afaik, contact samsung to do an RMA

RMA it to be safe, if you dont need the drive right now you might aswell do it and have the good drive for later.

As protellect said, its a crap shoot, ask 10 people and you get 10 different answers.

I swear to Samsung and Seagate myself, but YMWV (your mileage will vary)

That should rather read:

TL;DR I didnt research my options well enough before buying, and got the wrong stuff

... no offense, but thats the gist of what youre saying.

So on the grunds of, what, 3 failed drives you claim seagate is utter crap? Now while 3 failed drives in a row, with the two replacements being DOA is very unlikely, it can still happen. I'd contact them about it and make sure they're examining why this is happening. On the other hand, after seagate...

I would not use a drive like this as a system drive.

Get an F3 500GB for the system, its alot faster overall.

Might be the graphics card switching from 2D to 3D mode, and thus increasing clocks...

I've used cardboards + ducttape to block vents before, its not exactly pretty, but it works...