And that, my friend, is precisely why you have to have a hinged door. Until they develop teleportation, you will need to have some kind of opening to change your CDs. And while it would be relatively easy to seal a large door on the front of your computer (a rubber gasket, or even weather-stripping...

Have you had a look at decoupling the HD ? That should give some good reductions. I think you should be ok with the zalman VGA HS, tho im sure someone who has one can add something regarding this. I dont use AMD, but i think you could improve the CPU heatsink. Theres a socket A HS roundup on this si...

Im using a 300W PSU (Q-Tech) with my 1.8A which is OCed to a 2.4B, apart from that all thats different is i have 1 40Gb seagate HD, and an IDE CDRW. It hasnt faltered at all, and ive had it almost a year. Max current at 12V is the one to worry about with a P4, and the Nexus is the same if not better...

i'm thinking i might try some thin, dense foam. Maybe try some 1mm neoprene, or as thin as you can find. Maybe a thin mouse mat? This is to go round the inside surfaces of the mouse right? Or perhaps a thicker block of foam, that would fit in the front of the mouse, and you cut holes in it for the ...

It sounds to me like the noise you are hearing is caused by turbulence inside the PSU. That is, the forced air flow through the grills, over Heatsinks and components etc is causing the noise. I observed the same properties in my Q-Tech PSU. If you took the cover off the noise was noticably lower, be...

I remember a while back I was looking at replacing most of the fans with one large fan. I tried using a very large radial fan rated at around 100 cfm or so. The bearing and motor noise from these fans is impossible to get rid of even at very low speed. The idea I had was to use a large fan at slow ...

This 'double-stick tape' is normally called 'frag-tape', at least it is at the HardForum . Try a search there for it a see what comes up, im sure there will be lots of people wanting to know how to remove it. I would have done a search but the search isnt working at the mo! (As it often isnt at [H]!...

The thermal grease will also transfer heat to the CPU more efficiently giving you better temps. And yes arctic silver would be better than both (its a silver based thermal 'grease')

hmm, am i missing something here? dB is logarithmic. thus a doubling in sound intensity means a 3 dB(A) rise. thus, 13 dB(A) rise should have a sound intensity slightly greater than 16x. hmm... i must be missing some subjective weighting... Dont forget, that your ears have a kind of built in compre...

:D Fancy meeting you here! I haven't looked at decoupling stuff yet, as any benefits would be masked by the noise the PSU fans are making. When (if) I sort that out, I'll give it a go. Anyone have a link to a how-to guide? Why of course :) Its right here at SPCR : Decoupling How-Tos/Product Reviews...

My first thought was that it wouldnt be able to, and if you look on the second link it says 'Note: These PSUs are only 55W, (remember what they were originally designed for...) - unsuitable for use with full size CDROM drives!' So i'd have thought thats a no, maybe you could use two? If possible you...

Hiya PlayDead! You've come from the CM forum yeah? Im AnoDream on there, think i sent you here? Did you have a look at decoupling you HD yet? I have the same HD and it does make a big difference.

Damn, I wish I could get Panaflo's in the UK for that cheap. Theyre like £15 here ($20ish). £11.75 from here including free delivery. Not quite $3, but a bit better :) Oh its an extra quid for a tail too :( I agree tho loply, the UK prices are ridiculous, a few months ago, some European members fro...

Im using a 8942T on my 1.8A which is OCed to 2.4. with VCore at 1.575V. With a papst NGML (19dB, 26CFM) running at around 9V, it keeps it below 55*C with CPU at 100%, thats with a case temp at about 30*C. Idle is about 40*C.

Possibly something to do with the higher heat output of the Athlon, and not being able to handle it without a faster fan. Its strange but different Heatsinks work better in different situation. If you're using AMD then its best to go with the best HS you can afford on the AMD list.

Someone at work mentioned something about this. He said it would be a good option for him cos the BX chipset is one of the most stable ever made, and the cost of upgrading his supermicro mobo, with onboard SCSI, 1Gig ECCram etc, would be pretty high. Anyway, jus another viewpoint. But in general, th...

I think you would be better having 2 L1as as intakes and one as exhaust. So making 2 in 2out including the PSU. With the panaflos at around 7V, i would think you shouldnt be much more than 5*C above ambient, maybe 10*C. I think you would need you CPU fan at 12V tho, or at least pretty near it, if yo...

I would agree, especially if you can get them for a real cheap price, like a few dollars each, which them seem to be sometimes in the US.

Ive built one of the ones from heatsink-guide, and its very good. Only costs around £2 (~$2 or $3), and you can set the temperature sensitivity. From personal experience, dont use with papsts which click; if the voltage supplied is just below the start up voltage they will click like crazy!

If you look at its stats, you can see its rated at 27dB... 42CFM tho. So probably ok at 5 or 7V depending on other noisy components.

Im not exactly sure which one your looking at, but im using a Chieftec Dragon case, and am very impressed with it. It allows for good airflow through the case, and there is plenty of room. General build quality is very solid, and the side panels are nice and thick. The case is heavy providing good s...

Ok, the search at [H] is more often down that up, but its worth trying again, cos there was lots of info on all types of extra PSUs etc, so you might find something useful.

Havent tried it myself, but its worth a try. But, I would imagine the HS would be very small, and probably not able to cope without a fan. You could try pointing a 7V 80mm fan at it. Or perhaps put a Zalman VGA HS or similar on it. If you take the fan off, be careful of the temps. If you ran somethi...

Ok, there are in fact several ways to do it, so ill just post a link to a search of the [H]ardForum for 'Dual PSU*' here.

Theres load of info there, and there is infact a prebuilt option available from www.overclockers.co.uk i saw a link to!

I think all pins would be resolution independent ie the digital video data would go through the same pins whatever the resolution. But bending the pins cant be a good idea! Can you bend them back to the right position? Or see if they are all touching ok? I think nail varnish remover is the thing to ...

Might be better posting this at www.hardocp.com or similar, where they have lots of people with ESs and people from Intel etc.

Other than that , what do you need to know? You have it in a mobo?

Its not difficult to mod two ATX PSUs to power one computer. I have seen an article somewhere, and can look for it if you want it.


PS: Im not sure about the tolerances of the voltages supplied by non computer PSUs, but it might be something worth checking?

I would think a normal 300W quiet PSU would be fine for your needs. The reviews of all three are available in the review section. If they arent available near you, then maybe go for the modding option.

Hmm, have you installed the latest drivers, and SP1 for XP? Maybe try a virus check too?

c could be negative, but i dont think that the fact that it stops before 0V would be the reason. y=mx+c is only valid when V is greater than the start up voltage. Below the startup voltage, RPM is clearly 0. Anyone have an RPM sensing fan they can use to find the RPM at 5,7,12V?