Hey, at least if it toppled over it would float above the floor...

I was very impressed with my 3000+ when I got it, too. I've switched from RMClock to CrystalCPUID (wanted more control), and although I can only go to 0.825 @ 800MHz the coolness of my heatsink is very impressive. If it wasn't for that TruePower it would be near-silent - and probably even cooler too.

You could always make a large pipe that curves towards the back of the case. I'd go for rusted metal for that classic industrial look but seriously, if you can do that at the back, why not do it at the top too?

Isn't that extra PSU fan redundant unless you've made any more holes in the rear of the PSU case? I know the second fan doesn't cover up all the holes so there is airflow there, but it's all going to have to go out the rear fan anyway. Surely negative pressure is enough?

If the heatsink isn't fixed down everywhere (such as at the top, it seems) then you will get vibrations. Aluminium is still somewhat flexible ;) If you could get the bends a bit sharper so it becomes a much more snug fit it looks as if it will work well. Personally I don't think thermal compound is ...

The cheapest I've seen a fanmate over here is £7 - but since it only goes to 5v and the total cost is less than £3 (and much better for me since I already had stuff) I did this instead. I agree - it would be a good idea to cover the metal parts with electrical tape. It wasn't necessary for me since ...

Since the fan controller I already had didn't go very low, I decided to build my own with this circuit: http://www.btinternet.com/~jack.branch/stuff/fancontrol.png This circuit is cheap since the only powerful thing you need is the topmost transistor (since I was only controlling the stock Sonata ca...

Probably not all that useful from a silent perspective due to the ball bearings, but 100,000 hours is a very long time for a fan to keep going. (no doubt it'll be making a racket by then )

They all give out the same voltage with yellow as 12V and red as 5V as you correctly stated. They have to be consistent (I think there's a requirement for it to be marked in that way - just like telephone & mains wires have the same colours). NOTE: I take no responsibility if damage occurs by puttin...

Sounds like you'll need to reset the CMOS. There should be a jumper connector on your motherboard (some have this marked CMOS_CLR or similar, if you cannot find anything like that then check your manual. I know one that had bare solder pads!). Usual procedure is to turn off computer & PSU, move jump...

Now with handy signature! I always thought it was the PSU fan causing most of the noise on my PC (except for the optical drives, but they need a disc to take off), so I turned off fans using SpeedFan and went to standby mode. Everything turned off except for PSU fan, the difference was just audible ...

PSU v2. No mods (yet)

CPU Temp 28
Motherboard 35
CPU fan speed too slow for detection
PSU fan speed undetectable by motherboard (trying to fix this one)

If you have a rear exhaust and a PSU intake fan at the top with panel holes uncovered, would this help get cool air through the holes?

I have the later PSU version with front-facing air holes and may contemplate attaching a 60mm or 80mm fan to them.

Side topic when installing a HS similar to the 7000: how did you manage to remove the backplate on your K8V SE Deluxe? Mine was stuck on and couldn't get it off, so I had to cut the nipples and screws a little shorter to make it fit. It's firmly in place, but cutting the stuff was an inconvenience I...

I bought one through ebuyer.co.uk (PA9C-42CU) for £7. As for what I got: fan very noisy, I soon brought that down with speedfan. At 50% (not very audible above general PC noise) it keeps my A64 3000+ at ~44 C and remains off at idle (with stock Antec case fan & psu, no fancy cards) using Cool n Quie...

Looked at other cheap fans I can get locally, 2x80mm sleeve bearing seems like a better option + more ability for undervolting perhaps? 40 CFM, rated 35dBA (80CFM and 38dBA going by the rule) There are also very cheap (<£1) 120mm-80mm fans on ebuyer.co.uk, reviews say 'quiet' but by whose definition...

Since getting quiet fans is more expensive for us in the UK (especially when you factor in delivery if getting it online), i wondered what the result would be if you undervolt a cheap, high CFM (but noisy) fan. The specs for the best of the few 120mms easily available to me are: Operating voltage: 1...

I've found the connectors for it - standard 0.1 PCB socket - and will report back on my success or failure. The SpeedFan website leads me to believe the MB won't support it, but at least I have a spare fanmate if I need to use it.

I don't know the specifics of how the RPM detection lead works, but can you not connect it to +12V with a resistor? I imagine you'll get either 0 RPM or maximum this way - I'm guessing fans give out pulses rather than an analogue signal, correct me if I'm wrong here.

Anyone know how much fan grills, both the wire ones and printed metal as for case fans, affect the performance and noise of fans? And if they do have an effect, whether anyone throws caution to the wind (not literally, of course, that would be dangerous) and removes the grill? I imagine it's not suc...

Thanks for the reply Reason for asking about the temp is that I would be reducing the case fan speed to minimal value, so CPU would be hotter at idle.

Hi all! New SPCR poster :) I got a Sonata a couple of months ago, and although much quieter than my old setup, was still too noisy for me. But then it was running a 1.3g Duron at the time with no way to underclock/volt... Anyway, I upgraded my system yesterday to an Athlon 64 3000+ and K8V SE Deluxe...