DavdJ wrote:I took off the fan, now I'm getting chicken about frezeeing the thinkg and twisting the old head sink off!! Any comments.

Old heat sink is glued? A good method is to take a pair of pliers, a quick and strong twist and heatsink goes off. No need to freeze the card.

Then you'll have to compromise graphics card speed. Either make a heavy voltage and frequency modification to your current card and equip it with zalman 50, or get a gf3ti200 or gf4 mx with no fans.

There is some individual differences in athlon processors, but most of them can be undervolted heavily without stability problems.

You can always remove the case cover and replace those nasty fans with big and beautiful heatsinks. Alternatively, get a drill and make some holes to case cover and glue big heatsinks to it. If there is 5 mm space between GPU and case, then pile 7-8 4x4cm 0,7mm thick copper plates using arctic silve...

Here's some ideas on building a silent, fanless and small system. -make lots of ventilation holes to case cover -fill 2 small plastic bags with sand and put the hd between them airtightly and try to fit it inside the case. Even 1cm layer of sand reduces noise levels significantly, making an already ...

I doubt if this MB is undervoltable. In the worst case you can't fit any large heatsink to it and won't be able to undervolt. By looking at the pictures, most 8x8 heatsinks won't fit it. In the best case, zalman heatsink fits it and you can even undervolt. And after fitting a large heatsink to the M...

I bought it from a local electronc shop. It has a thermal resistance 0,40 C/W without any fans. Zalman is not even telling their heatsink's real thermal resistances.

System temp is a bit high (39 C) because there is no case fans.

Here's my solution for a passive PSU without any kind of noisy case fans. It's a cheapest possible 300W ATX PSU with a heatsink connected to PSU's small heatsinks by arctic silver adhesive. The hot transistors in this PSU are max 40C and other components about 30 C. http://members.fortunecity.com/bl...

I'm still using passive heatsink with TB1400@1326, 1,45V, maximum temp 65 C and usual temp 59 C:

This is likely right kind of laquer, since it is suitable also for coils and transformers. It is necessary to use quite a lot of it, so it goes between the copper wires inside the coil. And even it is quickly drying, the drying time will be at least 12 hours or more.

Lacquer? Varnish? Cloudberry? Sealing-wax?
In my room the loudest noise is caused by the active crossover divider of Genelec active monitors. A very faint white noise everywhere...

No high-pitch whine, but a very faint buzz that would only be audible with everything else completely off. I can only hear it holding my ear to the monitor. The "faint" CRT buzz becomes clearly audible after silencing all other electronic components in your room. Fortunately it is also possible to ...

"3) the aluminum plates are not that effective at noise reduction without decoupling; a layer of cork or similar material between the plates and the drive will definitely provide more noise reduction, especially of the highs" Aluminum mostly reflects sound, but it also absorbs it very well (since it...

Here's my passively cooled thunderbird with 20x15 cm heatsink (on top of ax7), passively cooled PSU and a gf3 with tiny pal8045:

I'm using asus A7V, since the capacitors of my previous mb went broken, and I got this really old mb for free. I think the gf3 runs a bit too hot and destroys any nearby capacitors if it is used in a tower case. Alpha heatsink is connected by arctic silver thermal adhesive. I'll get some pics after ...

Well, my room temperature is 24 C, and I got my tb1400 running stable at 1311mhz, 1,40 V. After playing Morrowind for 10 hours, CPU temp goes to 68 C (with Asus A7V sensors, other mb's show 5-10 C too low temps). There is some arctic silver between AX7 and the big heatsink, and the temperature of th...

Thermalright AX-7 + a BIG (1-3 kg) heatsink on top of ax7 from your local electronics shop. You also need open desktop case (or no case at all) for zero-fan passive cooling.

here's another idea: do a network boot and mapped network drive from a ... DIY NAS it from some old PC spare parts that most of us have lying around. I've done this before and it works reasonably well. At least with linux, you can get away with a 486 (or even 386) and run that as a diskless worksta...

i would naturally want the 1st Pabst here, but is that enought airflow? Probably the only way to find this out is a thermometer. In my PSU equipped with NGL/5V the hottest component is 60 - 65 C depending on system load. Turning the fan to blow air inside the PSU significantly improves the cooling ...

I use Papst 8412 NGL at 5V on my (old and crappy) 300W PSU, turned to blow air inside the PSU, and also with TB1400 (underclocked to 1200, 1,3V). NGL/5V is quite silent fan if you mount it correctly. Use 2-4 mm thick rubber plates with it, for example. Otherwise you'll get a horrible resonating noise.

Ok, here's some quick pictures of this aluminum + sand system (I'll try to make better pages probably later...)

http://members.fortunecity.com/bluehat1/

cschofie wrote:Any ideas, anyone?

I have been using about 6 months some plastic bags filled with sand to absorb all sounds from my maxtor hd, and aluminum plates to conduct the heat away (just lots and lots of sand, and there won't be any resonances). Great for a 0 dB(A) file server!