What are the specs?

newschool wrote:with positive pressure the cold air will blend into the hot air before going out of the case. with negative pressure you remove the hot air so the cold air can directly cool your components.

Care to explain your logic? That makes no sense to me.

SirAlex wrote:That I will do, but is there any way to replace that grill with another, so that I won't leave an ugly hole there :p

Yeah, most stores also sell wire fan grills.

I don't think the 800RPM fan will be enough. I would get the 1200 and a Zalman Fanmate (or similar) to control the speed.

And how about this case? http://www.3rsystemusa.com/products/r540li.html Can it be silent? At least the PSU does not get hot air from the processor. And there is one 120mm fan on top of it. I actually like that quite a bit. Nice website, with lots of pictures, too. You will need to replace the fan,...

Looks good, very clean considering. I gave up on my P180 when I got more than 6 drives. Getting all the SATA connections to look clean is a real PITA.

The MSI's heatsinks don't look like they protrude that much from the card; in your case it shouldn't be a problem. SPDIF is an audio connection, I would expect to see one on a sound card ;) The XP-90 will be "enough" with enough airflow over it. Of course, this will be more airflow than would be nee...

Without knowing what case you are using, advice will be really hard to give

Some pics would be nice as well...

Perhaps I'm missing something. It looks like the drive is sitting on the rubber grommets directly? If so, what is the benefit of tying it down as opposed to screwing it in? Isn't the rubber grommet going to perform the same task either way?

With a 2.5" drive, isn't this a bit overkill anyway?

Looks good. I just wish Gigabyte sold a MB with 3 16x PCIe ports...

The general concept is to make the exhaust area about the same as the intake area, no? To create positive pressure, you of course make the exhaust slightly smaller; but I think this would be a whole lot of intake for the exhaust area. Further, considering that so much air will be rushing out the top...

Ugh. Perhaps an 80mm, but I would instead consider putting a 120mm fan at the front of the GPU pulling air along the card; possibly with some ducting to be sure it is fresh. This is even more important if you have other PCI cards in there.

You want some airflow to go over your hard drive. Not having front intake can cause the air around the HDD to stagnate.

If you aren't going to manage the airflow beneath the card, putting the HR-03 above the GPU is an obvious choice. Of course, there will still be a heat issue from the other side of the card. My first thought would be to keep it on the bottom and put fan right next to it along the vacant slots. An in...

Looks like a good plan so far. Don't forget to remove the expansion bay covers below the GPU, and possibly mount a fan down there to encourage airflow. Those temps might be possible, but you will need to keep the case temps as close to ambient as you can.

1. The section of these forums called "silent storage" has all that you require. 2. Yes. Particularly on that front panel. I would also recommend that you use some hot glue to attach the various pieces of plastic in the front panel together. 4. Depends on your dust situation. I'm sure that you can r...

I remember my P160, I really liked it. Are you happy with the noise level? Recommendations in order of ease/significance/cost: 1. Suspend drives 2. Dynamat. This would be a big difference, but is expensive, so it goes down here. That case resonates a LOT. 3. Replace NB cooler with one that doesn't n...

I've learned Spanish and a little German, now I'm working on Russian...I know how hard it can be

...web browser auto corrects the spelling.

The tower heatsink will still be better than the stock cooler. More surface area, heatpipes, other good stuff. There will be enough airflow. Without getting too picky (mother was an English teacher), the only thing wrong is "wrong writing". ;) Alternatives: "bad grammar" "writing errors" "poor word ...

I'm currently in the design phase of damping a "brick" of 8x750GB drives. I plan on using a backplane for the connectors and wrapping the whole thing in layers of foam and dynamat and suspending it. The trick, of course, is to get the heat out somehow. Plan 1 is to clamp both sides with copper plate...

I typically run the case fan nearest the CPU off the CPU fan header; that way I get speed control and don't have to worry about the warning...

That system is nowhere close to needing a large fan. Stick a Scythe Ninja on the CPU and put a single low-speed fan on the back of the case and you are set with plenty of headroom. Of course, since your components are making little noise (only the HDD), you could choose the case with the large fan i...

I like big fans and their ability to move large amounts of air quietly. The drawback is that you need a hole in your case 220mm in diameter, a hole this big lets a LOT of noise out. Depending on your system components, you might need a lot of air, in which case the 220mm fan might be a good idea. Bu...

220mm fans appear to be becoming a standard, just as 92mm and 120mm fans were adopted years ago. There are already replacement fans for sale online. My Antec 900s have 220mm fans, so mainstream cases are beginning to adopt the new larger size. Something else of note; don't bother with both intake an...

This place also has an online store where you can order just about any heatpipes you want, from 3mmx15cm for $15 each to 8mmx30cm for $25.

That is cheap enough that I don't think I'll be DIYing it anytime soon.

Rev. 2.0 boards showing up on Newegg, and advertised as such.

Citizen Cope - Sons gonna rise
Bizet - Habanera
Chesky's Guide to Critical Listening (Rebbecca Pidgeon - Spanish Harlem)

Overestimated mine, that's for sure ;) There are a lot of components that combine to determine the maximum load. In order to reliably get significantly more power, you would need to replace a lot of stuff. And even then, you would need to re-tune the PSU to work with the new bits, and then hope that...

Of course, the problem now is that you are cooling the component with the temp sensor better, and everything else worse. If other parts of the card were in direct contact with the stock HSF and are not anymore, you have reason to be concerned. I typically just reach into my case after some time gami...

Useful links here:

http://www.enertron-inc.com/enertron-pr ... ection.php
http://www.enertron-inc.com/enertron-pr ... -pipes.php
http://www.aavidthermalloy.com/products ... port.shtml