Given it'll take you at least a few hours to do the hardware and software side of it, 75$ would make a nice 'round' number. that's still cheap. (disclaimer: I'm unemployed, so any money ppl give me for doing something with their pc's that I like doing is a bonus to me, so I'm generally cheap myself....

just looking out for your financials

try a fanswap first, if you're intend to ditch the psu anyway, you can afford to open it up and try.

if you're concerned with green and money issues, I don't think you will recoup the money for the picopsu/powerbrick with the few W saved for many a year, unless your electricy is much more expensive than mine, and getting a new part to replace a good working part isn't green. you didn't say what psu...

Replacement/additional hard drive cage for use with
Performance/
Performance II/
Performance Plus/
Performance TX cases.

P18x are Performance One type.


there's a single 5->3,5 converter for the 900, might fit in the p18x

that looks alot like the removable hd cage on my old antec 1040 big tower, in which case it'd just be a piece of metal shaped like a box holding 3 hd's, with a locking mechanism at the top, that might just fit in the 5,25 space width-wise, and may just about fit between the dvdrw at the top and the ...

The current implementation of the link at the top of the forum index showing the new posts since last visit doesn't work well when you keep the website in a tab all day and night, and view a post every now and then from that list. Going back into the cache of opera gives me the old list, which is go...

Your first call should always be to the store you bought the thing from. They're required to fix any problems, they have much more direct lines to their suppliers/manufacturers, so they're best placed to sort any problems. Did you even try that? That antec and corsair have great support staff and ar...

I also went from a ut nf4 to a matx board, but I went too fast and forgot my needs of lots of hd's and more than 1 pci slot. just so you know, you'll be disappointed with most fancontrol on recent boards compared to that board. so a tip, take a good look at how many sata/pata/pci slots you need befo...

xvid encoding time for an 1h recorded mpg in AGK went from over 1,5h to 1h when going from 3000+ to 4850E

the intels are supposed to be better encoders.

it's all I care about for my cpu's these days, most else runs about the same on a 1600+ or a E8600 I think.

agree x4

I got my X2 4200+ 1,5y ago when they were still reasonable though not cheap, and it's now my mom's machine.

those new quads are all much more expensive than the old versions though

I bet that with most tasks you'll get better responsiveness out of more memory with a bit of windows tweaking than from going from E5200 all the way up to E8600.

so, despite what ppl are used to, what will it do?

I imagine not liking the mixed kits is related to the same reason they sell kits rather than just let everyone pick single sticks for dual channel operation.

what's your experience with the UD3P board?

the PSU in that case won't be the quietest available.

the scythe is good to go fanless on that chip, it's how I have it.

think a <800rpm fan in the case blowing out will be airflow enough for both the ninja and the NB, paired with the psu.

p6: To overclock get it to 3.8GHz, another 0.05V of CPU voltage and a 0.10V increase in Northbridge voltage were required. p7: AMD might not have closed the gap with Intel, yet, but we're to happy to see ... I buckled and got the Q8200 cause it was on sale in a local shop. Mainly cause it should be ...

I'd like to see some info on VM usages somewhere, and what the impact of them are wrt performance cpu/mem -wise

p8 "A simple overclocking began investigation was conducted"
p9 "to be ironed out in the soon though,"


if only I knew enough ppl willing to get these small pc's, I could try building some of these mitx ones

I doubt you need any fans in the bottom with just 1 HD there.

I've found if I leave the top open and the back on 800 I get lower temps without increase in noise.

I ahven't tried top only yet.

you don't by chance have the tightvnc option enabled to only view the remote, have you? just checking. what I hate about tightvnc is having to add it to the windows firewall each time I set up a new pc, and that I keep forgetting I have to do that, so when I try to connect, nothing's happening :-L o...

I think the simili here is with gaza atm...

for all I care you throw sharpened rocks at the rock throwers as well. But it may be considered disproportionate when you throw so many sharpened and bigger rocks at the general direction of them that you may hit them, but definately hit the whole street too... And fence them in. And prevent any foo...

which AV have you tried?

Norton/Symantec can bring any system to its knees...

and I recently switched from AVG to Avast, cause since v8 AVG has gotten less snappy.

since she's pushing 70, I think a little noise won't phase her, and it might be a nice comforting thought that it's actually on.

I know my mom sometimes wondered if her (my old) pc was on cause it was so quiet. had to leave the leds on caue of that, so she had a visual queue

I just checked some prices here and there, and there are several sites where the E7300 is cheaper than the E7200, is it as easy to cool though?

I agree that the numbers may not be as accurate as spcr, but because of the many other psu's in the article, it should be a reasonable comparison to known spcr tested hardware.

I'm thinking of getting the corsair CX400W in a NSK4000 for a E7200 build for someone, with the Asus P5N7A-VM recently reviewed here. 45e for the psu and 45 for the case, seems a good combo. It's for someone who's coming from a P3 850MHz, on a 14" CRT running w98... Having no real budget limitations...

this link was posted here, and it looks to be a far better calculator:

http://web.aanet.com.au/SnooP/psucalc.php

like I said in an earlier reply on the same subject, that PSU calculator overestimates the W required by your system by close to a power of 2..

I can just about get my system up to 150W - the calulator says I need a 445W PSU


So don't go by that calculator.


.sig updated.

According to that calculator, my system would draw 440W at full load.

in reality if it breaks 150 it must be making coffee as well

fyi, I have a 380W seasonic in the system...


(I'll fix my sig later, but that drew similar numbers)