LEPA LV12 Direct-Touch Heatsink
Posted: Mon Aug 25, 2014 12:48 pm
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https://www.silentpcreview.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=67846
Thanks for pointing it out, it actually didn't cross my mind, it should have, but it didn't. Could be because it flexed so much, I don't know.MikeC wrote:imo, the flexing of the 2 side bars is probably part of the design. All HS mounting schemes have some degree of give -- they have to, otherwise they risk damage to components.
The tension on the CPU/HS when installed seemed really high. My bet is the mounting system was doing its job correctly -- it's the same type used by the best HS makers. It's most likely that the base is concave in some fashion. Hard to see or measure with this type of base.walle wrote:Thanks for pointing it out, it actually didn't cross my mind, it should have, but it didn't. Could be because it flexed so much, I don't know.MikeC wrote:imo, the flexing of the 2 side bars is probably part of the design. All HS mounting schemes have some degree of give -- they have to, otherwise they risk damage to components.
I think that's jumping the conclusion a bit.Unfortunately, the LEPA LV12 under-performs, ... due to poor contact with the CPU heatspreader. ...
Compare the Scythe Kotetsu:Olle P wrote:I think that's jumping the conclusion a bit. The CPU contact looks okay to me.
Here's the caption from the review:xan_user wrote:im not questioning the person who applied the paste in this review, but it looks like way more than i like to use.
Im oldschool, i use a fresh razor blade to squeegee the thinnest possible amount of paste that will cover the base <snip>
Applying thermal paste to a direct-touch heatsink is a more involved process than a normal cooler. As there are gaps between each heatpipe and its neighboring partition, an ample amount should be spread along the length of the partitions (the pressure should spread it out to the heatpipes after installation).
yep i read that. id still use a razorblade to thin out the layer after it was worked into the gaps. if you use a lot more paste on a direct touch cooler,im not sure comparing paste patterns to a smooth base that used way less paste is as valid a test of how good the contact is.CA_Steve wrote:Here's the caption from the review:xan_user wrote:im not questioning the person who applied the paste in this review, but it looks like way more than i like to use.
Im oldschool, i use a fresh razor blade to squeegee the thinnest possible amount of paste that will cover the base <snip>Applying thermal paste to a direct-touch heatsink is a more involved process than a normal cooler. As there are gaps between each heatpipe and its neighboring partition, an ample amount should be spread along the length of the partitions (the pressure should spread it out to the heatpipes after installation).
In every high performance cooler we've tested, the actual amount of TIM used seemed to have no impact on the actual imprint on the center of the base or CPU: The TIM just gets squeezed out to the perimeter due to the pressure and tight contact. This was true with the few good performing direct-touch coolers as well as the conventional solid base types. We haven't seen the snowflake/fractal TIM pattern w/o a gap between base & CPU.xan_user wrote:im not saying this cooler would perform any better with less paste. just not sure how valid the snowflake test in this situation.
I just examined the base more closely. The partitions and pipes appear perfectly level. The only light peeking through is in the tiny gaps between them.xan_user wrote:thx mike. id still love to see/or at least hear what the base looks like with a straight edge on it, with a light source behind it, to see if the copper sits flush with the ridges.
thank you for checking! seems this cooler cant really be saved...Lawrence Lee wrote:I just examined the base more closely. The partitions and pipes appear perfectly level. The only light peeking through is in the tiny gaps between them.xan_user wrote:thx mike. id still love to see/or at least hear what the base looks like with a straight edge on it, with a light source behind it, to see if the copper sits flush with the ridges.