Antec 3000B: TAC and Athlon64

Enclosures and acoustic damping to help quiet them.

Moderators: NeilBlanchard, Ralf Hutter, sthayashi, Devonavar

Post Reply
BigDonut
Posts: 44
Joined: Thu Jan 06, 2005 5:56 am

Antec 3000B: TAC and Athlon64

Post by BigDonut » Mon Mar 14, 2005 1:59 pm

I got myself an Antec 300B case and with it comes the air guide in the side panel. This is a telescopic guide that is supposed to be placed over the cpu so that thehas outside air for cooling.

The problem is that for Athlon64 motherboards (or at least my Abit AV8) the telescopic thing only lies over 1/4 of the cpu since the position of the cpu is different to that of P4s.

My question is to anyone who has had similar findings.

Is it worth trying to find a solution to this or is it better to remove the telescopic cone and tape over the side vents?

EDIT: I am using the stock AMD cooler. (I know better/quiter coolers can be had but for now i don't want to spend any more money if possible)

Tibors
Patron of SPCR
Posts: 2674
Joined: Sun Jul 04, 2004 6:07 am
Location: Houten, The Netherlands, Europe

Post by Tibors » Mon Mar 14, 2005 3:24 pm

The TAC is only "needed" for really hot processors. Wth an A64 you should be able to get sufficient cooling without it.

BigDonut
Posts: 44
Joined: Thu Jan 06, 2005 5:56 am

Post by BigDonut » Tue Mar 15, 2005 3:34 am

Tibors wrote:The TAC is only "needed" for really hot processors. Wth an A64 you should be able to get sufficient cooling without it.
okay time to get the screw driver out and get some nice clear tape for the holes.

My current tempratures is 39 for cpu idling and 43 when I'm surfing and stuff.
I'm still trying to work out whether this is the actual temprature or if its due to the Abit AV8 being unable to accurately measure tempratures.

It may also be due to me putting on a wee bit too much thermal paste

Still debating whether to turn on cool and quiet

meglamaniac
Posts: 380
Joined: Thu Jul 15, 2004 12:44 pm
Location: UK

Post by meglamaniac » Tue Mar 15, 2005 4:49 am

The only question I can think to ask at this point is why would you turn it off?

BigDonut
Posts: 44
Joined: Thu Jan 06, 2005 5:56 am

Post by BigDonut » Tue Mar 15, 2005 6:52 am

meglamaniac wrote:The only question I can think to ask at this point is why would you turn it off?
It was off by default so I have yet to turn it on.

Also the AbitAV8 has the OCGuru which allows you to over (or under) clock as the machine is running. So you can give extra juice to those applications that need it.

I'm not sure how CoolNQuiet will affect this

HolyBastard
Posts: 42
Joined: Tue Feb 01, 2005 1:57 pm
Location: US

Post by HolyBastard » Thu Mar 24, 2005 6:38 am

Are you saying that most features of the SLK3000B becomes useless for an athlon 64? Also, I plan on getting a 6600Gt wich are supposed to be kind of noisy (and I can't find the fanless gigabyte) so wouldn't there be a better case without TAC desing to reduce noise?

ilh
Posts: 313
Joined: Sat Jan 08, 2005 3:31 pm
Location: Acton, MA, USA -- Folding for SPCR

Post by ilh » Thu Mar 24, 2005 6:42 am

I have the CPU duct removed and that intake covered on my 3000B. Since it was not well aligned (maybe 20% overlap) with the 7000 on my DFI, it seemed like it did not help and may have actually hurt temperatures a bit. The rear exhaust fan seemed to vent that air directly.

I have left the lower intake uncovered as it seems to really help case and VGA temperatures for me. I may try to create a bit of a duct from this intake to the intake on my VF700.

Anyone want to trade a 3000B side panel for a 3000BQE side panel?
Lee

[size=75][color=navy]QX6700 at 3.0GHz, Ninja SCNJ-1100P, 8800GT, Asus P5K-E, Seasonic S12II-500GB, 2x WD5000AACS, Antec Solo
Opteron 170 at 260x10 w/7000B-Cu, 6800 GT w/VF700-Cu, DFI nF4 Ultra-D w/NB47J, Seasonic S12-500, 2x WD5000AACS suspended, Antec SLK3000B[/color][/size]

Sweendog
Posts: 17
Joined: Fri Mar 11, 2005 7:53 pm

Post by Sweendog » Thu Mar 24, 2005 12:12 pm

HolyBastard wrote:Are you saying that most features of the SLK3000B becomes useless for an athlon 64? Also, I plan on getting a 6600Gt wich are supposed to be kind of noisy (and I can't find the fanless gigabyte) so wouldn't there be a better case without TAC desing to reduce noise?
NewEgg has the fanless Northbridge Gigabyte:
http://www.newegg.com/app/viewproductde ... 279&DEPA=1

Just remember, if you're going to use the Thermalright 120, you need to order the steel backplate for it. (Something NewEgg doesn't carry...)
Virtue is insufficient temptation.

Tibors
Patron of SPCR
Posts: 2674
Joined: Sun Jul 04, 2004 6:07 am
Location: Houten, The Netherlands, Europe

Post by Tibors » Thu Mar 24, 2005 12:43 pm

Sweendog wrote:Just remember, if you're going to use the Thermalright 120, you need to order the steel backplate for it.
:?: Care to elaborate :?:
3) MSI RS480M2-IL | A64 3000+ | Freezer 64 | SS-301HT | 7200.7 PATA 40GB
5) Intel D525MW | Intel 320 40GB | Vertex II 180GB

Erssa
Posts: 1421
Joined: Sat Mar 12, 2005 9:26 pm
Location: Finland

Post by Erssa » Thu Mar 24, 2005 2:39 pm

I think he is referring to the weak structure of the abit pcb. The pcb can bend under the weight of the cooler and it can damage the board.

Check this

Sweendog
Posts: 17
Joined: Fri Mar 11, 2005 7:53 pm

Post by Sweendog » Thu Mar 24, 2005 6:24 pm

Tibors wrote::?: Care to elaborate :?:
Sure, on the Thermalright XP-120 mobo compatability webpage:
http://www.thermalright.com/a_page/main ... 120_k8.htm
they point out that Gigabyte uses a plastic backplate on thier 939 boards that needs replacement with a steel version. ($3.00 US retail):
http://www.thermalright.com/a_page/main ... m#acc_k8bp

Unfortunately NewEgg doesn't offer it, so I couldn't purchase it at the same time as the motherboard and heatsink, but I found that 3DCool.com does sell the part:
http://www.3dcool.com/Details.asp?cid=27&id=1123

The shipping cost more than the backplate. :shock: But at a total cost of $7.60 (shiped USPS) its not that bad.
Virtue is insufficient temptation.

burcakb
Posts: 1443
Joined: Tue Mar 09, 2004 9:05 am
Location: Turkey

Post by burcakb » Fri Mar 25, 2005 3:25 am

BigDonut wrote:Also the AbitAV8 has the OCGuru which allows you to over (or under) clock as the machine is running.
Are you SURE it allows "under"clocking? as mine sure doesn't - only overclock
[size=75][url=http://forums.silentpcreview.com/viewtopic.php?t=17474]Thor's Hammer[/url]
Loki's Magic: Coming soon...
[url=http://forums.silentpcreview.com/viewtopic.php?t=19771]Odin's Chariot[/url][/size]

stromgald
Posts: 887
Joined: Wed Jun 09, 2004 12:45 pm
Location: California, US

Post by stromgald » Fri Mar 25, 2005 8:37 am

HolyBastard wrote:Are you saying that most features of the SLK3000B becomes useless for an athlon 64? Also, I plan on getting a 6600Gt wich are supposed to be kind of noisy (and I can't find the fanless gigabyte) so wouldn't there be a better case without TAC desing to reduce noise?
I have an ASUS A8V board in my 3000B, and the CPU duct covers a little over half the fan, maybe 60%, so I leave it open. It really depends on the motherboard I think. Fanless 6600GT graphics cards are kinda hard to come by. I'm currently using a fanless Gigabyte 6800NU (non-ultra). Don't recall the exact temps right now and not at my computer, but I think the GPU doesn't get past 75 during gaming. Here it is at NewEgg:
http://www.newegg.com/app/viewProductDe ... 142&depa=1
I also found a 6600GT passively cooled at NewEgg, but its out of stock:
http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDe ... 179&depa=1

BigDonut, I turned Cool n' Quiet on and it cut my CPU temps from 44 idle to 39 idle. Just make sure that you have it on. You have to install the driver, change the BIOS settings, and change Windows settings to get it to work. Otherwise, you'll still be running at max frequency. Took me awhile of fiddling and head scratching before I got out the manual and figured out all the little settings.

nici
Posts: 3011
Joined: Thu Dec 16, 2004 8:49 am
Location: Suomi Finland Perkele

Post by nici » Fri Mar 25, 2005 1:42 pm

Forget about Cool n´Quiet, start Folding instead :wink:

Lourdes
Posts: 17
Joined: Mon Mar 14, 2005 2:55 pm
Location: UK

Post by Lourdes » Sat Mar 26, 2005 3:43 pm

I was thinking of replacing my duct with an exhaust fan, maybe angled a little because it's not directly over the CPU. Might be a nuiance if you want to open the case however.

~El~Jefe~
Friend of SPCR
Posts: 2887
Joined: Mon Feb 28, 2005 4:21 pm
Location: New York City zzzz
Contact:

Post by ~El~Jefe~ » Tue Mar 29, 2005 12:55 am

Lourdes wrote:I was thinking of replacing my duct with an exhaust fan, maybe angled a little because it's not directly over the CPU. Might be a nuiance if you want to open the case however.
this is a very loud suggestion. Sides of cases should be solid at least, and better yet, covered with soundproofing junk.

I have learned (sitting here right now with one) how terrible negative pressure can be in a geared towards quiet system.

teejay
Patron of SPCR
Posts: 749
Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2004 2:23 am
Location: The Netherlands

Post by teejay » Tue Mar 29, 2005 6:03 am

~El~Jefe~ wrote:I have learned (sitting here right now with one) how terrible negative pressure can be in a geared towards quiet system.
Would you care to elaborate on the seemingly direct relation between negative pressure and noise? While you're at it, could you please enlighten us on how negative pressure is a bad thing from a silencentric point-of-view?

Sarcasm aside, I don't think your statement holds much merit... but I suppose I should be glad it hasn't been written in caps. Positive and negative pressure systems can be made quiet just as well as balanced airflow rigs IMHO. However, I have found that side panel fans can be disruptive to the airflow in a case, especially when you have low airflow (i.e., undervolted case fans). Second, they add a direct noise path from the fan to your ears which is generally a bad idea unless the fan is all but inaudible. Finally, a side panel fan works best when it is used for spot cooling (like the cpu or gpu) and that in turn works better with intake fans than with exhaust fans.

By connecting a side fan with a 3pin extension wire, you can easily slide out the side panel with the fan still connected and either put the panel somewhere close or disconnect the wire at the extension point... so that nuisance can be quickly remedied.
[size=75]I: E5200 OC, Ninja II, Gigabyte P45, ATi HD4850 w/ S1, Raptor + Samsung disks in Quiet Drive, Enermax Modu82+ 425W, Lian Li V1000, 2x Nexus 120 PWM
II: A64 3000+, Ninja, DFI nForce3, headless, Samsung disks suspended, Enermax Pro82+ 385W, Antec 3000B padded & dampened, 2x Nexus 120 B&W[/size]

BigDonut
Posts: 44
Joined: Thu Jan 06, 2005 5:56 am

Post by BigDonut » Wed Mar 30, 2005 12:25 pm

burcakb wrote:
BigDonut wrote:Also the AbitAV8 has the OCGuru which allows you to over (or under) clock as the machine is running.
Are you SURE it allows "under"clocking? as mine sure doesn't - only overclock
Nope not sure it does. "default" settings for me are FSB of 204Mhz so I can slow that to 200MHz and reduce all the voltages. not really underclocking I suppose.
In the bios you can set the multiplier to be low though. HAvent really played with it however.

Managed to get cool n quiet running and it has made a difference to tempratures. I had forgotten to change windows power management to minimal, so it meant cool n quiet never kicked in.

I'm going to remove my cone on the case as it definetly isnt providning anything for the athlon64. Will probably tape up both side vents to see how tempratures go.
There is a definite feeling of cool air from the lower vent so it may be doing something.

MAy try some foam over the vents to help with the sound too

I still think its an excellent case and well worth the money IMHO

Post Reply