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Depakote seizure disorder anxiety
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Depakote seizure disorder anxiety
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Last edited by Otto69 on Fri Apr 23, 2010 3:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Pump will be the hardest thing to make silent. While inline may be easier to do and take up less space, submerged will allow the water to help dampen the noise it makes. I suggest an Eheim pump, highest quality pumps on the market. You can get them at pet stores usually.
Even with the pump submerged in a small box, you may still need to put the pump box on some foam to keep the vibrations from resonating the case, or try to suspend it. Suspension would work best, but it takes a good amount of space in the case to do it.
The radiators will need fans just like any other air cooled systems. If its a thick radiator, go with panaflow L1A's. They are a bit thicker (38mm) and will give you better air pressure to get the air through thick radiators.
If they are thinner rads though like your typical cpu heatsink, then just use Scythe S-Flex. 1200rpm or 800rpm model, and get something to undervolt them, i personally like the old zalman fanmate. It works with multiple fans.
Make sure you bleed air bubbles out of the system. They will make random clicky sounds if you dont get them all out (good luck with that, i never could get them all out of my lines, drove me crazy)
And you will need to take the entire thing out of the system every 6 months to clean it out. This includes unbolting your waterblocks off the GPU and CPU and any other waterblocks you have, opening them and cleaning them out. Then put it all back in and refill again, and re-bleed air bubbles out again.
Its a lot of work, and the performance increase over air cooling is negligable at best. Its really only helpful if your attempting to massivly overclock your entire system. Anything less and you can do it quieter, simplier, in less time and with less money on air cooling.
Even with the pump submerged in a small box, you may still need to put the pump box on some foam to keep the vibrations from resonating the case, or try to suspend it. Suspension would work best, but it takes a good amount of space in the case to do it.
The radiators will need fans just like any other air cooled systems. If its a thick radiator, go with panaflow L1A's. They are a bit thicker (38mm) and will give you better air pressure to get the air through thick radiators.
If they are thinner rads though like your typical cpu heatsink, then just use Scythe S-Flex. 1200rpm or 800rpm model, and get something to undervolt them, i personally like the old zalman fanmate. It works with multiple fans.
Make sure you bleed air bubbles out of the system. They will make random clicky sounds if you dont get them all out (good luck with that, i never could get them all out of my lines, drove me crazy)
And you will need to take the entire thing out of the system every 6 months to clean it out. This includes unbolting your waterblocks off the GPU and CPU and any other waterblocks you have, opening them and cleaning them out. Then put it all back in and refill again, and re-bleed air bubbles out again.
Its a lot of work, and the performance increase over air cooling is negligable at best. Its really only helpful if your attempting to massivly overclock your entire system. Anything less and you can do it quieter, simplier, in less time and with less money on air cooling.
I've injured my hand, but it should be healed up in a week or so. I'll try to get some preliminary pics up soon. I have the coolance parts in hand now and it looks like the PetraTech supplied radiator will fit along with the 3 Noctua fans. Now I need to find a metal shear or nibbler to remove the center of most of the top case panel.
I'd welcome advice as to power shears vs. power nibbler on this case. Will the shear distort the remaining metal significantly?
I'd welcome advice as to power shears vs. power nibbler on this case. Will the shear distort the remaining metal significantly?
With a little skill, a shear can cut metal with little distortion on one side. Basically, one side will curl up and the other side will stay in place. There will be a small amount of distortion on the side that stays in place but well within acceptable limits for your job. Also, it will be relatively easy to make a straight cut with the shear.Otto69 wrote:I'd welcome advice as to power shears vs. power nibbler on this case. Will the shear distort the remaining metal significantly?
The nibbler will cut with zero distortion to either side but cutting a straight line is pretty much impossible. Even if you use a fence, it will not make a very smooth cut. I expect this tool will also do a good job for you but it will leave a hole that looks like it was chewed by rats.
If it was me, I'd use a good quality pair of Wiss brand aviation snips. Their serrated blades will not leave a smooth cut but it will be OK and the manual snips provide wonderful control. The rough edges aviation snips leave can be easily filed off with a few strokes, if you deem it necessary.
By the way, I expect the job can be done with right handed (red handled) aviation snips. There would be no need for left handed (green handled) snips, unless you're left handed. For some jobs, you need both but one pair will likely be fine for 98% of the jobs you'll ever do.
Good luck.