Case with 2 x 120mm fans rear for water cooling

Enclosures and acoustic damping to help quiet them.

Moderators: NeilBlanchard, Ralf Hutter, sthayashi, Devonavar

Post Reply
Cokeisit
Posts: 12
Joined: Fri Aug 22, 2003 1:57 pm

Case with 2 x 120mm fans rear for water cooling

Post by Cokeisit » Fri Aug 22, 2003 2:20 pm

I have found a case with preinstalled water cooling. It's a Swifttech FS020-H20. It's a modified Lite-On FS020. http://www.swiftnets.com/products/FS020.asp

In the rear it has the radiator outside of the case and two 120mm fans blowing at it from the inside of the case. The case also has a 120mm fan in the front and one 120mm on the side. This system is supposed to be quiet! A review can be found here http://www.extremeoverclocking.com/revi ... wer_1.html

The case Lite-On FS020 has room for two 120mm as standard.

The problem is that I don't think the case looks good. It has kind of an old design. I want a case that already has room for this cooling system as it's available to buy separately (Swifttech 22500 http://www.swiftnets.com/products/H20-22500-0.asp )

I want a case that at least has room for one 120mm fan in the front and two 120mm fans in the rear.

Does anyone know of any good cases? I have already looked at the thread about "Cases with 120mm fans" http://forums.silentpcreview.com/viewto ... ight=fs020 but the only one with 2 x 120mm in the rear is of course Lite-On FS020 :cry:

WannaOC
Posts: 85
Joined: Wed Jun 11, 2003 1:59 pm

Post by WannaOC » Fri Aug 22, 2003 9:20 pm

First thing you need to do is get off the idea of using a blow out fan/radiator idea. The reason I say this is when making a watercooling setup you don't want hot air blowing over the radiator, you want fresh room temp air blowing over it. The best way to set a w/c setup is to have the front intake fans blowing over the radiator. Now to do this in most cases you have to do at the least some drilling and usually some modding but you can also only use a '87 chevette heatercore for your rad. With it you make (or buy) some 120mm fan shrouds and put one fan blowing in and the other sucking out the other side. This makes a good cooling solution with a smaller space than what you are thinking and makes it to where you can do it in almost any case out there. I used a case that had an 80mm fan intake with some "minor" :) drilling and put it in and work great. If you need some more help let me know as this may not be too clear as its late. :D

Gooserider
Posts: 587
Joined: Fri Aug 01, 2003 10:45 pm
Location: North Billerica, MA, USA
Contact:

Post by Gooserider » Sat Aug 23, 2003 12:32 am

Much of what Vannec says is good, but I would raise a couple of points...

1. Use the BIGGEST heater core you can mount in the available space. There is a database that lets you look for cores by size. It isn't perfect, since it only lists the cooling area dimensions, and doesn't include the tanks, but you can work around that.

2. A 'single pass' radiator is FAR more efficient than a 'dual pass' radiator. The easiest way to tell them apart is to look at the tanks and the I/O connections. If both I/O connections are on the same end, and / or the tanks appear to be 'notched' in the center, then you have a 2 (or more) pass radiator. If the I/O's are on opposite ends, and the tanks don't look 'notched' in the center, you have a single pass radiator. A single pass radiator will offer less than 1/4 the resistance that a dual pass rad the same size does. (note that the dual pass Chevette core is less restrictive than most 'made for PC' rads, but it isn't very good otherwise. It's popular, but that doesn't mean it's good...)

3. It is VITAL for both quiet and good airflow that you do NOT put the fan directly on the radiator! Use a duct that gives you *at least* 1" of space between the fan and the rad, more space is better.

Gooserider

supastar
-- Vendor --
Posts: 30
Joined: Sun Aug 11, 2002 3:26 pm
Location: Oxford UK
Contact:

Post by supastar » Sat Aug 23, 2003 2:31 am

May I ask, Cokeisit, why you want 2 x 120 mm exhaust fans?

Cokeisit
Posts: 12
Joined: Fri Aug 22, 2003 1:57 pm

Post by Cokeisit » Sat Aug 23, 2003 7:34 am

First I want to thank all of You for Your input.

WannaOC: My main task is to get a quiet computer, overclocking is a second priority. The design i suggested is just a copy of Swifttechs own design (the manufacturer of the water cooling system) and if they think it's working then I think it'll be good enough for me. But I want another case.

I don't mind a little modding but I would prefer to know that there is enough space on the rear for two 120mm fans as in the Lite-On case I mentioned. I will put a 120mm fan on the side blowing in air. Both fans on the radiator will get cold air from there.

Gooserider: Do You have a link to the database?

supastar: See above and take a look at these pictures http://www.extremeoverclocking.com/revi ... ge_02.html and http://www.extremeoverclocking.com/revi ... ge_08.html the radiator is mounted outside of the case and it has 2x120mm fans blowing on it. That is why I want a case with room for 2x120mm fans at the rear.

If it wasn't for the fact that I don't like the Lite-On case I would by it with the cooling system preinstalled by Swifttech.

I want a case on which I can open the sidepanel easily and that has a modern design.

supastar
-- Vendor --
Posts: 30
Joined: Sun Aug 11, 2002 3:26 pm
Location: Oxford UK
Contact:

Post by supastar » Sat Aug 23, 2003 8:26 am

Right. You want a twin 120 mm fan sized radiator. May I suggest that the best place to fit this is in the top of a tower case. Try one 120 mm fan at the hot end of the rad and a second fan if you need it. Suck through the rad. This will allow you to fit a twin radiator in virtually any case of your choice.

Secondly, don't worry about using internal case air to cool the rad. Most of the heat that used to be there is now in the water so the case will run cooler anyway. It seems pointless to fit the radiator at the front and then put all the waste heat back into the case!!

And don't use too many fans or it will never be quiet. Why not jack the case off the ground and cut two 120 mm holes in the base. With external filters. This will give you a mega updraught right through the case to the rad fan(s) at the top.

I have a customer with a triple 120 mm rad in the top of a full tower case. NO fans, entirely passive. He is seriously (his words) overclocking an Athlon XP. Everything has waterblocks, including full SCSI RAID. At normal room temps, the flow temperature is 43 degC.

There is also a mega external PASSIVE radiator that you could consider. See it here, http://www.KoolnQuiet.co.uk/index.php?m ... alog&id=37 .
For a more powerful system, put another radiator (smaller) inline with a thermally controlled fan. This will take the overload when the system runs fast.

WannaOC
Posts: 85
Joined: Wed Jun 11, 2003 1:59 pm

Post by WannaOC » Sat Aug 23, 2003 9:42 am

Secondly, don't worry about using internal case air to cool the rad. Most of the heat that used to be there is now in the water so the case will run cooler anyway. It seems pointless to fit the radiator at the front and then put all the waste heat back into the case!!
Actually from what I have seen and read temps go up inside the case a couple degrees because there isn't as many fans pushing air around causing more dead spots.

Gooserider
Posts: 587
Joined: Fri Aug 01, 2003 10:45 pm
Location: North Billerica, MA, USA
Contact:

Post by Gooserider » Sun Aug 24, 2003 2:10 am

WannaOC: My main task is to get a quiet computer, overclocking is a second priority. The design i suggested is just a copy of Swifttechs own design (the manufacturer of the water cooling system) and if they think it's working then I think it'll be good enough for me. But I want another case.

I have mixed feelings about Swiftech, I know that many people use their products w/o problems, but IMHO they have a very BAD design in that they mix metals. Their block has a copper base, and an aluminum top, which is a surfire recipe for eventual major corrosion problems.

Yes, I know they anodize the aluminum, that helps, but does NOT PREVENT corrosion. I know they make anticorrosive additives for the coolant. They slow, but do NOT PREVENT corrosion.

I would far rather see someone use a system that is either all copper/brass (soldering parts together is OK) or all aluminum. Since copper has a better heat transfer ability, and more fittings are availiable in brass, I reccomend going for all copper/brass.

I'm also not very impressed by the pictures you referenced (I assume they are the case you are talking about?) Just a few flaws in the design right off the top...

1. Fans suck better than they blow... You will move more air through a rad with any given fan if it is pulling air through the rad rather than trying to blow through it.

2. No visible shrouds - the fans are directly against the face of the rad. This causes MAJOR noise from turbulence, reduces airflow, and cuts cooling effectiveness because the hub blocks air from much of the radiator. You probably have noticed how many people here cut out the restrictive stamped steel fan grills to reduce noise and increase airflow. Putting a fan up against a radiator makes the worst stamped steel grill look like free air by comparison.

3. Restrictive plumbing - I see FOUR tight 90* bends just in the lines leading to the rad on the back of the case. Bends should be avoided as each bend greatly restricts flow (a 90* bend offers flow reduction similar to several FEET of the same size straight tubing) If used they should be GENTLE. Judging by eye, I'm guessing the tube itself is on the order of 1/2" OD, 3/8" ID, which is marginal for a CPU cooler.

What is the PQ curve on the rad? What pump are they supplying, and what's it's PQ curve? PQ on the block(s)? Note that if they are supplying the entire system, they should be able to state the minimum flow rate - what is it? (A good system should be over 2GPM, my pump is an Iwaki MD20RT, 14.2' Max head, 8.1 GPM max flow. I'm going to have to work HARD to get 2GPM from that pump, which is better than most.)
I don't mind a little modding but I would prefer to know that there is enough space on the rear for two 120mm fans as in the Lite-On case I mentioned. I will put a 120mm fan on the side blowing in air. Both fans on the radiator will get cold air from there.

Sounds like excessive fans to me... Side fans are problematic as they tend to create turbulence and upset the front / back airflow through the case. IMHO you'd do better to leave the side alone, and put a bigger intake fan in rather than a side blowhole.
Gooserider: Do You have a link to the database?
http://airspirit.net/ and follow the links to the 'Water heater database project'
Note that the sizes listed are only for the cooling grid itself, and do NOT include the tanks, I/O plumbing, brackets, etc. Airspirit says that he hasn't been able to find a source for actual overall dimensions. Limited experience suggests that most cores will have a width matching the listing, and a length 1-2" longer because of the tanks. Look at the pictures to see what prospective rads are like, there are many variants in things like I/O positions, etc.
Another useful source is leakycar.com I found his prices reasonable, but they can be beat shopping locally. It is also good for having pictures of all the cores, which is good for finding the single pass cores instead of the dual pass cores.
Lastly, while the WC community seems to have settled on FedCo numbers to describe cores, FedCo has apparently either folded or been bought out, and most shops don't have cross-references to their numbers anymore. This page Heater Core Cross Reference will let you plug in a FedCo # and get a list of most of the major core maker equivalents.
WannaOC
Quote:Secondly, don't worry about using internal case air to cool the rad. Most of the heat that used to be there is now in the water so the case will run cooler anyway. It seems pointless to fit the radiator at the front and then put all the waste heat back into the case!!/Quote:

Actually from what I have seen and read temps go up inside the case a couple degrees because there isn't as many fans pushing air around causing more dead spots.
Depends on the design. If you setup your fans to only blow through the rad, and not circulate air in the case, the case temp may go up. If your design keeps about the same volume of air going through the case, the case temp will probably drop.

Pulling air through a front mounted rad, and circulating that air through the case isn't that big of a deal IMHO, in part it's what my system will do. Depending on the heat load, the air going through a rad will only be warmed 2-5*C, which isn't a big issue. Bear in mind that no matter WHAT method of cooling you use, you will still be needing to dissipate the same amount of heat at least. In the case of a WC system, the amount of heat dissipated will be increased by the wattage of the pump. WC'ing just moves the heat around so it can be dissipated more gracefully. If you suck air in through a rad, blow it through the case, and then out the back, the heat is still the SAME as if you were air cooling! The advantage comes in that the air is used more uniformly, and potentially efficiently, so that the actual airflow used can more closely get down to the theoretical minimum amount needed to dissipate a given amount of heat.

IMHO, there are considerable efficiency and silencing advantages to sucking through the rad, then blowing at least some of the same air through the case. Among these are:

1.It lets the case act as a muffler for the intakes.

2. If you otherwise seal the case, then any exhaust fans will be effectively in series with the intake fans, which increases their static pressure and thus the airflow through the radiator, allowing further reductions in fan speed.

3. Since the case has airflow already, no further fans are needed for case airflow.

4. If the fan speeds are balanced properly, then it becomes possible to run a slight positive pressure in the case, which may reduce dirt buildups (if the intakes are filtered...)

Gooserider

WannaOC
Posts: 85
Joined: Wed Jun 11, 2003 1:59 pm

Post by WannaOC » Sun Aug 24, 2003 9:25 am

Gooserider not to sound harsh but do you w/c? From you talking about sucking air over versus blowing and sucking air over it, pulling air from inside of the case versus fresh air on to the rad, and water only going up 2-5 degrees not making a big deal, it seems you may know a little more about a silent pc than a watercooled one.

Not to shoot your ideas down but when water goes up 2-5 degrees so do cpu temps
If you suck air in through a rad, blow it through the case, and then out the back, the heat is still the SAME as if you were air cooling!
?? If you suck air through the rad into the case you are aircooling the rad not the CPU, the water stays as close to room temp air as it can, not the case temp. For example, my room temp sits around 26C and the air in my case sits around 33C, before I took it apart my 2800 Barton was running at 31C while overclocked to 2.4G and watercooled. Now if I had aircooling in there the CPU would have sat a couple degrees above case temp not my room temp and made it much higher.

Now what air would you want to have blowing on your radiator, the cooler room temp air or the warmer case air? Good airflow in the case may help cooler air get to the radiator in the back but there are still alot of components on that m/b that heat up the air as it passes over it.

sbabb
*Lifetime Patron*
Posts: 327
Joined: Tue Aug 19, 2003 10:04 am
Location: New Hampshire, USA

Post by sbabb » Sun Aug 24, 2003 1:06 pm

I think you misunderstood Gooserider. You're both advocating placing the radiator at the intake. Gooserider was pointing out that doing so only warms up the intake air by 2-5 degrees C, which isn't much of a rise in temperature in the air being circulated inside the case. Putting the radiator at the intake should lower the coolant temperature.

Gooserider
Posts: 587
Joined: Fri Aug 01, 2003 10:45 pm
Location: North Billerica, MA, USA
Contact:

Post by Gooserider » Mon Aug 25, 2003 12:50 am

Sbabb got it right WannaOC. I suggest putting the rad at the front of the case, sucking OUTSIDE air into the case through the rad, and then blowing that air through the case and out the back.

My current PC is relatively ancient, poorly air-cooled, and not all that silent. However I've been working on designing and building a new system that I've also been spending several hours daily researching on how best to do it. This system is one that the cooling system I am building nearly from scratch - including milling my own WB's, building my own drive cooling blocks, etc. I know that this box I'm building is one that my GF and I will have to live with for the next several years, as I don't replace boxes very often.

What I am doing for my system (which will have unusually high heat loads since I'm going to be using a DUAL AMD mobo, and several 15K SCSI drives) is as follows.

1. I am using a SINGLE PASS radiator, FedCo # 2-342. This gives several advantages, starting with less than 1/3 the flow resistance of the same sized dual pass 2-274. Because the inlet is at the bottom, and the outlet is at the top, it will be virtually impossible for this rad to trap air (a common problem w/ dual pass units). Another feature which is unique to single pass rads, is there will be a distinct temperature gradient across the face of the rad, with the bottom inlet end being hotter than the top outlet.
2. The rad is going into the front left lower corner of my CK1100B cube case, mounted so that it sticks partly through the sheetmetal, and fills most of the space that would normally have been used for case air intake. (I'm removing the three 80mm fans that came with the case for this area)
3. The rad at 6.125"W X 9.5" tall (plus tanks) is tall enough to support two 120mm fans in parallel, one on the top, one on the bottom. Both of these fans will be 38mm thick for maximum suction. I'm currently planning to use either two Sanyo Ace 102.3CFM fans or two OEM Panaflo 120mm L1A's depending on what the final cooling numbers look like.
4. The bottom fan is mounted on the bottom panel of the case (which is mounted on casters) and connected by a duct to the rad so that it sucks in through the bottom hotter half of the rad, and blows that air out the bottom of the case.
5. The top fan will be mounted in a shroud that spaces it about 2" off the rad face. It will suck through the rad and blow through the case.
6. At the rear of the case, there is a 120mm outlet for each chamber. I will be putting a 25mm thick, lower flow fan on each outlet, setup to pull about 40% of the intake fans effective volume. Most of the rest will be handled by the PSU fan, and the remainder will keep the case slighly positively pressured.
7. The case will be sealed other than the above mentioned I/O fans.
If you suck air through the rad into the case you are aircooling the rad not the CPU, the water stays as close to room temp air as it can, not the case temp
True, but you apparently fail to grasp what you are doing when watercooling vs. aircooling. Watercooling is nothing more than aircooling with a heat transfer step!! The water block does nothing that an HSF doesn't do, all it does is take the heat put out by the CPU (and other WC'd parts) and transfer it to the coolant that takes the heat to the radiator where it is AIR COOLED! The same watts are being dissipated to the same air either way. There is actually a slight inefficiency added by watercooling since in addition to the PC components, the coolant is also heated by the pump that circulates it.

In THEORY if all the cooling air blows through the case, then the temperature of the air exiting the case will be the SAME regardless of the location of the radiator, or if you air cooled instead. Watercooling gains because it more evenly and efficiently dissipates the heat into the air, so you can either get more cooling with the same airflow, or the same cooling with less airflow as you choose.

Given an otherwise sealed case, with identical components and heat loads:

If the radiator is in the intake of the case, then the air going through the radiator will be coolest, and that may give slightly lower coolant temps. But the air going through the case will be 3-5*C warmer, and less effective at cooling the things in the case.

If the rad is in the exhaust, the air coming through the case will be SLIGHTLY warmed, but most of the heat from the CPU's etc. is in the rad, so the temperature increase of the air going through the case is minimal, and the case temperatures will be lower. (increasing secondary path heat loss of the CPU)

If air cooling, some air will be circulated through the HSF (possibly several times) and highly heated, other air won't pick up much heat at all. At the case exit, the average air temp will be SLIGHTLY cooler (by the amount of pump heat) than the WC system, but approximately the same.

The Overall system temperatures for all components in the system should be the same. There might be slight differences in CPU temps, but they would not be large enough to be significant. The AC system will probably be hottest, because an AC system generally does not make good use of all it's cooling airflow. In a WC system, normally an effective 100% of the air goes through the radiator, so you get more efficient use of the cooling air.

Hope this helps,

Gooserider

sbabb
*Lifetime Patron*
Posts: 327
Joined: Tue Aug 19, 2003 10:04 am
Location: New Hampshire, USA

Post by sbabb » Mon Aug 25, 2003 8:07 am

Interesting design, Gooserider.

Be careful that the lower radiator duct that's exhausting out the bottom doesn't wind up recirculating hot air back into the nearby radiator intake.

North Bricka, huh? My daily work drive is NH to Burlington and back via Rt.3. Maybe we could get together sometime. If my current deal for a YY Cube falls through I may punt on my plans for a desktop double-wide and grab a CK1100 instead.

breakerbox
Posts: 8
Joined: Thu Jul 31, 2003 7:19 am

Post by breakerbox » Mon Aug 25, 2003 9:48 am

http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProduct.a ... 617&DEPA=1

these cases look better, no ?
still kinda ugly... 3 fans too.

Cokeisit
Posts: 12
Joined: Fri Aug 22, 2003 1:57 pm

Post by Cokeisit » Mon Aug 25, 2003 10:49 am

breakerbox wrote:http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProduct.a ... 617&DEPA=1

these cases look better, no ?
still kinda ugly... 3 fans too.
It's a modified Chieftec case with preinstalled cooling. http://www.chieftec.com/products/dragon/dx01wd.htm

It looks a little nicer but it has only 80mm fans and I wanted 120mm fans. Thanks for Your tip though.

Gooserider
Posts: 587
Joined: Fri Aug 01, 2003 10:45 pm
Location: North Billerica, MA, USA
Contact:

Post by Gooserider » Mon Aug 25, 2003 10:59 pm

sbabb:
Interesting design, Gooserider.
Thanks... I've been reading all sorts of forums for months, and I've never seen anything done quite like it. I think it is because most folks use dual pass rads which wouldn't work as well with this setup. It's a pity, because it seems to me that replacing a dual pass rad with a single pass unit is one of the easiest flow restriction reduction tricks there is, especially as flow rates go up. Unfortuneately the selection of single pass cores is pretty limited, there are only about 23 of them that I saw in the LeakyCar photo gallery, out of 8-900 total.
Be careful that the lower radiator duct that's exhausting out the bottom doesn't wind up recirculating hot air back into the nearby radiator intake.
That is a possibility, but I think I can handle it with what I was already considering for noise control. The front edge of the fan will only be about 1-2" back from the front of the cabinet so I was concerned about fan noise coming out from under the case. I haven't decided on anything definite, but it seems to me like putting a 'mudflap' of damping material hanging down from the front of the case to the floor would both block the noise and keep the exhaust air from coming out the front and recirculating.

The exhaust duct will be blowing down onto a carpeted floor, which will absorb some noise, I wonder if putting sound absorber on the underside of the case bottom would offer significant improvement on top of that. May need to experiment and find out.
North Bricka, huh? My daily work drive is NH to Burlington and back via Rt.3. Maybe we could get together sometime. If my current deal for a YY Cube falls through I may punt on my plans for a desktop double-wide and grab a CK1100 instead.
Seems possible to me, send me a PM and I'll get you my meatspace contact info.... I think you'll be impressed by the CK1100, I was considering a YY Cube, and think this is a WAY better case, well worth the slight amount extra it costs.

Gooserider[/quote]

sbabb
*Lifetime Patron*
Posts: 327
Joined: Tue Aug 19, 2003 10:04 am
Location: New Hampshire, USA

Post by sbabb » Tue Aug 26, 2003 5:40 pm

Looks like it's going to be a YY Cube for me. I had a bid in on one on EBay for $115 and I won it. If anyone else is interested, the seller was "eramax" and they appear to put new YY Cubes up every week or two. Don't go nuts bidding, though, you can get them at Case Outlet or Server Cases for $150.

I haven't seen a CK-1100 on EBay, but I tend to agree that having the larger case may make it easier to watercool.

Scott

Cokeisit
Posts: 12
Joined: Fri Aug 22, 2003 1:57 pm

Post by Cokeisit » Tue Aug 26, 2003 9:42 pm

Could someone post a link to the YY Cube product spec page?

I'm starting to think that finding a case with 2x120mm fans in the rear is impossible so I need to start looking for good alternatives :)

Gooserider
Posts: 587
Joined: Fri Aug 01, 2003 10:45 pm
Location: North Billerica, MA, USA
Contact:

Post by Gooserider » Tue Aug 26, 2003 10:29 pm

Cokeisit:
Could someone post a link to the YY Cube product spec page?
I don't know what the 'official' YY Cube site is, but a couple of other sources of info are:

1. Pro-Cooling, which did a pretty good review on it.

2 Look at the ServerCase.com website, which is where I got my CK1100. Look in the 'advanced server' section, and you can find the specs for the YY and the CK1100 among others. The listings are pretty good, with several pictures, detailed description specs. etc.

Gooserider


Cokeisit
Posts: 12
Joined: Fri Aug 22, 2003 1:57 pm

Post by Cokeisit » Wed Aug 27, 2003 10:42 am

Gooserider and sbabb: thank for Your links :D

Gooserider
Posts: 587
Joined: Fri Aug 01, 2003 10:45 pm
Location: North Billerica, MA, USA
Contact:

Minor Corrections...

Post by Gooserider » Wed Aug 27, 2003 10:58 pm

sbabb: The CK-1100 has 3 front 80mm, 2 rear 120mm, options for 4 more front 80mm behind the 5.25" bays
Close, not quite right... I just purchased a CK1100 a few months ago, so I've had my hands in it's fans (and other personal parts :wink: ) quite a bit.

The case comes w/ 3 front 80mm x 25 fans mounted on a panel w/ stamped grills on the front and snap-in plastic guards on the back. It also comes with ONE 120mm X 25mm exhaust fan mounted in the PSU chamber, with a nice wire guard on the inside. All 4 fans are 'generic chinese' not 'name brand' and are 2 wire, with 4 pin PSU pass-through type connectors. I haven't tested them, but don't have any reason to expect them to be particularly quiet (or noisy)

One of the minor downsides of the CK1100 is that ALL of the case metal fan mounts are of the restrictive stamped steel variety (as are most cases).

On the optional fan mounts - There are more than you suggested - it is FIVE optional mounts, not four. There is one mount for each pair of 5.25" bays, 1 pair on the mobo side, 4 pairs on the PSU side. The downside of these mounts (besides the stamped steel) is that to use them you would need to remove or mod the plastic bay covers that sit in front of them. The plus is that it gives an instant mount point if you want to blow air over any 3.5" devices mounted in those bays.

In addition, there are two little removable trays that can each hold an 80mm fan that will blow crosswise between the mobo and PSU chambers, mostly into the lower 4 drive bays.

Of course, all of this is before surgery.... 8) :twisted:

In my case, the rack of 80mm's has gone away, to be replaced by my rad. The floor of the case behind the rad has gotten a 120mm exhaust mount, and the 120mm stamped steel grills on the back are going to dissapear. The optional mounts will be either taken out or taped over as appropriate. End result I've described above.

Gooserider

Post Reply