Recommended mods for the Reserator?

The alternative to direct air cooling

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acaurora
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Recommended mods for the Reserator?

Post by acaurora » Wed Jun 23, 2004 5:50 am

I'd like to know, what are your recommended mods for the reserator? I have heard that probably the first thing to do is replace the pump. 2ndly is probably the hosing/removing the flow indicator. Can I get anyone's 2nd opinion/advice on this? I am a little disappointed at the 45/40 C CPU/Case temps, which were basically the same as my air cooled solution, just a lot quieter.
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Post by chylld » Wed Jun 23, 2004 4:39 pm

the limitation of the reserator is the reserator itself. it simply does not radiate heat away from the system efficiently enough.

i recall another SPCR member upgrading his reserator system with an eheim 1048 pump and a silverprop cyclone se waterblock with minimal performance gains.

perhaps you can direct a box fan towards the reserator? :)

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Post by acaurora » Wed Jun 23, 2004 8:53 pm

Actually I was considering the following -

Using a vertical cylinder to enclose the reserator, and then mounting a 120mm fan at the top, with slits near the bottom to bring in cool air, and then teh top 120mm fan sucking it out. The problem is I don't know what material the cylinder should be, regular paper, construction paper, posterboard, cardboard... etc. Metals are out of the question, as I have no access to something like that. It seems sensible...

----------
120mm fan
-------------
| | R | |
| | E | |
| | S | |
| | E | |
| | R | |
| | A | |
| | T | |
| | O | |
| | R | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
SLIT SLIT
| ----------- | <-- metal steel stand of the reserator
what do you think?
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Post by chylld » Wed Jun 23, 2004 11:32 pm

good thinking. sounds like a winner to me :)

i'd just make it out of cardboard. or you could possibly use wrapping paper so you can go around and around the reserator until you cover most of it. as long as you construct the top properly (some masking tape will do the job) to prevent air seeping in at the top of the cylinder, i don't see why it wouldn't work.

you can call it a shroud i guess :)

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Post by moparchris » Thu Jun 24, 2004 12:09 am

ahh ok.. it would improve it yes.. but why noit just get a heatercore
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Post by Bosk » Thu Jun 24, 2004 12:42 am

I agree with chylld, the Reserator itself will limit your performance regardless of which mods you try.

There's no reason why you couldn't lower your load temps by a good 5C with more expensive tubing, a stronger pump and a better waterblock though.
I guess the question is how much time & money you're willing to spend on the job and weather 5Cish lower will really be enough for you (probably not if you want to overclock).

Pointing a 120mm fan at the Reserator will be about as effective as all the other mods combined as far as temps go, but then you'll no longer be running a passive system.
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Post by acaurora » Thu Jun 24, 2004 6:01 am

i am sort of wondering how better tubing would result in better temperatures, if the ID and OD were both the same. I mean... it's the same size... nothing different...
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Post by Rusty075 » Thu Jun 24, 2004 8:13 am

By "better" I'm assuming he means bigger. And it'll make very little difference in temps. There are already restrictions built into the system at the WB and the Res, changing the tubing diameter will have only a small effect on the flow rate.

I've already experimented with a shroud like you've described, and it does work quite well, lowering temps by 5°'s or so. I used aluminum foil as the material, and a 5v 120mm L1A.

But in reality, why do you need to mod it? Right out of the box it will cool 150W's+ worth of CPU and VGA adequately. Are you running more than that?

If you're at the same temps as your aircooled system, yet nearly zero noise...I'd say that you're in good shape.
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Post by acaurora » Thu Jun 24, 2004 9:44 am

I guess you both have a point there. Same performance as fan-cooled, except silent. I dont have my 9800 XT hooked up to it, as i'd rather wait til teh X800XT. So we'll see how that turns out.
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Post by Bosk » Thu Jun 24, 2004 9:53 am

acaurora wrote:i am sort of wondering how better tubing would result in better temperatures, if the ID and OD were both the same. I mean... it's the same size... nothing different...

I've heard that better quality tubing can slightly increase your flow rate because the coolant won't "stick" to the sides as much. Or there's less friction, or something like that :?
See-through tubing also allows you to get rid of the Flow Indicator which hampers your flow rate beyond any doubt, and of course higher flow = lower temps or so the story goes.

Replacing the 3/8" blue silicon tubing with 1/2" stuff will of course help, but I wouldn't recommend it unless you replace the rather whimpy built-in pump with something stronger.. unless you're bored and want something to tinker with! :wink:
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Post by acaurora » Thu Jun 24, 2004 10:00 am

Well the only thing that worries me is that my CPU temp is 46 C on IDLE. Haven't tried load yet. Perhaps it's because I'm in super sunny south california, where it's HOT. =[
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Post by acaurora » Thu Jun 24, 2004 10:39 am

sure? keep in mind you're running a P4, whilst I'm on an Athlon. But then again, yours is overclocked...and WAY overclocked, if I must add ^.^
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Post by chylld » Thu Jun 24, 2004 11:36 pm

70 under load on an amd is generally acceptable, but temperatures only tell part of the story.

one of the best ways to test stability is to run the prime95 torture test for 24 hours straight. if it can cope with that, you don't need to worry about temperature at all.

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Post by acaurora » Fri Jun 25, 2004 8:49 am

I have a DFI LanParty Ultra II B, as seen in my sig ^.^

What settings should I run Prime95 under?
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Post by chylld » Fri Jun 25, 2004 2:46 pm

Maxamus wrote:I find it pointless letting it run for hours and hours when in reality you dont use your pc more than an hour if that at 100% load.
I very rarely see my pc at 100% load in the applications i use and the way i use my pc......encoding video/audio is about the most strenious thing i do and thats only taking 30-45min max.
hehehe i often find that when my computer's under heavy load, it's nuder load for 24hrs+ at a time :) (i work with video editing/compositing as well as 3d rendering)

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Post by Rusty075 » Fri Jun 25, 2004 2:56 pm

From my testing of the Reserator you need about 12 hours of constant load/idle time to get the temps to stabilize.

But if you've got a system like this, that is as silent at load as it is at idle..... Why isn't it Folding for SPCR? :lol:
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Post by acaurora » Fri Jun 25, 2004 4:48 pm

Why, you say? Because I get BSODs and STOP errors every once in a while, I have no idea why. If any of you guys can help me, i'd greatly appreciate it. I thought it was my RAM, which wasn't supported, evidently (mushkin), so i got a supported brand (Corsair XMS XL Pro). That helped somewhat, but it still happens every now and then. My temperatures are fine, and it only happens when I run bittorrent. No matter what client i use, it happens when I run a lot of torrents.
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Post by acaurora » Fri Jun 25, 2004 5:43 pm

i leave it on auto. For 2-2-2-5, the RAM supposedly boots automatically to 2.75V. I haven't checked recently to see if that is true.
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Post by acaurora » Fri Jun 25, 2004 6:09 pm

ok. I'll try that. Quick question - How does increasing voltage help ? o.0
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Post by jpsa » Wed Jul 07, 2004 11:29 am

Try using an enclosuse to the reserator and leave it open at the bottom and top. You'll have a relativelly high column of hot air rising, so air flow must be reasonable. Post results if you try it :)
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Post by acaurora » Wed Jul 07, 2004 11:35 am

actually that aint a bad idea... I will once I find some flexible posterboard or cardboard...

why do you hate your 7200.7 ? I have a 160 and a 200 ... I can understand if u got the 160, but the 200's pretty nice :P
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