LOW Budget Water Cooling Setup
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LOW Budget Water Cooling Setup
At last Here it is my water cooled rig.
Components:
Zalman WB2 Gold
Fountain pump - 400l/h (100gph)
Tank - 100 CDs case
Hoses - ...
Heatercore - russian car something (very good but was very dirty and alot of cleaning was needed)
No fans - I like it quiet.
But where can I attach some pics ??
Components:
Zalman WB2 Gold
Fountain pump - 400l/h (100gph)
Tank - 100 CDs case
Hoses - ...
Heatercore - russian car something (very good but was very dirty and alot of cleaning was needed)
No fans - I like it quiet.
But where can I attach some pics ??
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Re: LOW Budget Water Cooling Setup
lol nice postCyberBlade wrote:At last Here it is my water cooled rig.
Components:
Zalman WB2 Gold
Fountain pump - 400l/h (100gph)
Tank - 100 CDs case
Hoses - ...
Heatercore - russian car something (very good but was very dirty and alot of cleaning was needed)
No fans - I like it quiet.
But where can I attach some pics ??
I want to see this thing.
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Re: LOW Budget Water Cooling Setup
CyberBlade wrote:But where can I attach some pics ??
www.imgspot.com or www.photobucket.com will host pics for free.
Pete
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this review comments about the gold on the outside, but then the comment for the internal picture suggests that it still is copper on the inside. makes for a nice bit of bling but not really doing anything to stop galvanic corrosion if its only on the outsideeander315 wrote:That's a WB2 GOLD. There is no exposed copper, thus it should function better, corrosion-wise, when used with aluminum.
http://www.devhardware.com/c/a/PC-Cooli ... -Review/3/
and here:
http://reviews.pimprig.com/cooling/zalm ... php?page=2
From SPCR's own review:
Zalman released the gold plated version to correct corrosion problems they experienced with the copper version, which is no longer available. The primary function of the gold plating does not have anything to do with bling or heat transfer properties.
The copper piece of the waterblock is almost definitely electroplated. This would make it extremely difficult to plate only on the bottom, as the entire piece is submerged during the process. Additionally, you can see that the color of the metal on the base is the same as the color on in the interior part of the waterblock. Compare the internal pictures of the gold and copper versions of this waterblock:By plating the copper with gold they alleviate some of the corrosion risk inherent with having mixed metals in a water-cooling loop. The plated copper with the anodized aluminum should greatly reduce the corrosion potential.
Zalman released the gold plated version to correct corrosion problems they experienced with the copper version, which is no longer available. The primary function of the gold plating does not have anything to do with bling or heat transfer properties.
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You guys realize aluminum will corrode by itself in water, correct? Even if anodized. Especially if you have metal on metal threads. Just use the right additives and it will outlast the a usable computer.
As for Gold helping to prevent corrosion? Eh thats dubious. Sure if everything in the loop was gold.
http://www.calce.umd.edu/general/Facili ... easons.htm
As for Gold helping to prevent corrosion? Eh thats dubious. Sure if everything in the loop was gold.
http://www.calce.umd.edu/general/Facili ... easons.htm
Coating copper with gold because you have aluminum in the loop is pretty f'ing stupid. Im sure zalman only did it because the cost of replacing the aluminum tops was greater than just plating the copper with gold, which I still can't believe. Gold has better conductivity than aluminum, but not copper. The wb's base will be fine but that anodization on the top is just going to be eaten away probably at close to the same rate.Gold on aluminum produces a galvanic couple that can accelerate the corrosion process by providing the driving force for the aluminum oxidation reaction.
I mentioned that earlier in this thread. Luckily, as you mentioned, the proper use of anti-corrosives should (hopefully) take care of the corrosion long enough that it doesn't matter. This block hasn't been around long enough to see the results of our guesses, but it seems ok given its cost and performance.You guys realize aluminum will corrode by itself in water, correct?
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i don't have one of these yet (waiting for zalman to solve the pump probs, hopefully in the rev2 shown in hannover) just going off what the reviews say on the web. i completely agree with all of the above that aluminium in isolation still corrodes and that it would be ridiculous to jsut have the gold on the bottom.
if someone who has one in the flesh can confirm that the inside is gold plated too then i'll happily be proven wrong, just the reviews indicate to the contrary
if someone who has one in the flesh can confirm that the inside is gold plated too then i'll happily be proven wrong, just the reviews indicate to the contrary
Yes, the inside is in fact gold plated.
The anodization of the aluminum is really the important part in reducing the potential for corrosion in the loop. The gold may prevent general corrosion of the copper in the block, but does nothing for galvanic corrosion of the aluminum in the loop.
I happen to have two Zalman WB's in my possession now, and they make an interesting comparison. They were both used, in separate loops, for almost the same amount of time. My block, which was used only with DI and Water Wetter, is nearly pristine inside. If it weren't for the scuffmarks on the base you would have a hard time telling it from new. The second block was used an equal amount of time in a loop filled only with DI, with no anti-corrosive, per Zalman's instructions. The inside of that block looks like it was retrieved from the wreck of the Titanic. There is so much deposited matter on the gold that I'm almost certain that flow would have had to be restricted. If I think of it later I'll try to snap some pics.
Moral of the story: Put something in the water!
The anodization of the aluminum is really the important part in reducing the potential for corrosion in the loop. The gold may prevent general corrosion of the copper in the block, but does nothing for galvanic corrosion of the aluminum in the loop.
I happen to have two Zalman WB's in my possession now, and they make an interesting comparison. They were both used, in separate loops, for almost the same amount of time. My block, which was used only with DI and Water Wetter, is nearly pristine inside. If it weren't for the scuffmarks on the base you would have a hard time telling it from new. The second block was used an equal amount of time in a loop filled only with DI, with no anti-corrosive, per Zalman's instructions. The inside of that block looks like it was retrieved from the wreck of the Titanic. There is so much deposited matter on the gold that I'm almost certain that flow would have had to be restricted. If I think of it later I'll try to snap some pics.
Moral of the story: Put something in the water!
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Hrmmm any chance someone knows what the threads on the base of the block are? Guessing its metric!
But anyways The block isnt more than 2 - 2.5" in diameter right? You can buy a 2.5" in diameter Delrin rod on ebay for like 5$ if you want to manufacture your own base. Could probably do it with a dremel, a drill, and the right taps. Oh yeah and a hack saw. Would be kool if someone did it for the heck of it. Course are that level of effort Id just get another block
But anyways The block isnt more than 2 - 2.5" in diameter right? You can buy a 2.5" in diameter Delrin rod on ebay for like 5$ if you want to manufacture your own base. Could probably do it with a dremel, a drill, and the right taps. Oh yeah and a hack saw. Would be kool if someone did it for the heck of it. Course are that level of effort Id just get another block
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Sorry for the long delay guys!
My PC short-circuited and got the whole flat burning!!!
Nah .. just kidding
Here are the long waited pics:
http://photobucket.com/albums/y215/Cryo ... ent=01.jpg
My PC short-circuited and got the whole flat burning!!!
Nah .. just kidding
Here are the long waited pics:
http://photobucket.com/albums/y215/Cryo ... ent=01.jpg
awesome work! i love it when people have the guts and determination to make something like this with a limited budget - it's a very refreshing change from the increasingly commercialised wc market.
i personally wouldn't worry about corrosion between al/cu since a good anti-corrisive additive will generally fix your problems quickfast. especially given that you didn't have as much luxury with choosing materials for components
i personally wouldn't worry about corrosion between al/cu since a good anti-corrisive additive will generally fix your problems quickfast. especially given that you didn't have as much luxury with choosing materials for components