Design advice for building a selfmade case.

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qstoffe
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Design advice for building a selfmade case.

Post by qstoffe » Thu May 04, 2006 2:31 pm

Hello ! :)

I'm thinking of building my own PC case, mainly by using plywood-boards.

I'm using a 3D-model program for the design of my case so will probably be posting some pics here later when asking for design-feedback.

This question however is more abstract and needs no pics to be asked :(

I'm thinking of "ducting". Seperate ducts for:
* CPU
* VGA
* HDDs
* PSU

However making all these ducts requires atleast one fan/duct. My question is (if anyone has an idea): what will be best for LOW noise. Many ducts means many low spinning fans... however fewer ducts (i.e. combining CPU & VGA ducts) would mean fewer fans but at higher speeds (rpm).

It's a difficult question to answer, I know, but if anyone has tested the differnce OR have a good idea/motivation why one is better over the other I would like to know ! :D

Another question that someone might have tested. When placing a fan right next to the CPU-cooler (like a Nexus 120mm next to a Ninja): how does noise/cooling get affected if you have more or less space between the cooler and the fan. I have a feeling that fans that has more "free space" on both sides are less noisy... but how is cooling affected ? And what would be an "optimal" distance ?

PS. You should know that right now I'm considering going fan-o-crazy in my design by using both intake and exhaust -fan for every duct... this means 4 ducts = 8 slow spinnging 120mm fans !!!...... can this really be good for low noise ?

McBanjo
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Re: Design advice for building a selfmade case.

Post by McBanjo » Thu May 04, 2006 4:56 pm

qstoffe wrote:Hello ! :)
Hello to you too
However making all these ducts requires atleast one fan/duct. My question is (if anyone has an idea): what will be best for LOW noise. Many ducts means many low spinning fans... however fewer ducts (i.e. combining CPU & VGA ducts) would mean fewer fans but at higher speeds (rpm).
Not really, that depends on how much cooling each device needs. Say for PSU a nexus at 5V might be overkill but since the fan can't run slower you can't do anything about it. But say that PSU+HDD(s) in a duct like Antec P180 is perfect for a nexus at 5V then you cool 2 devices yet no higher rpm or noise. How much cooling and ducts you need is desided by the things you need to cool.
It's a difficult question to answer, I know, but if anyone has tested the differnce OR have a good idea/motivation why one is better over the other I would like to know ! :D
I would assume the cpu need it's own duct, PSU+HDD 1 duct and then 1 duct for the rest of the system. Not 100% sure but that's what I think :-)
Another question that someone might have tested. When placing a fan right next to the CPU-cooler (like a Nexus 120mm next to a Ninja): how does noise/cooling get affected if you have more or less space between the cooler and the fan. I have a feeling that fans that has more "free space" on both sides are less noisy... but how is cooling affected ? And what would be an "optimal" distance ?
More free space is less resistant for the fan and thereby less noise but also less cooling. Right next to the cooler would be the best to get most of the cooling effect (or you have to create a duct)

PS. You should know that right now I'm considering going fan-o-crazy in my design by using both intake and exhaust -fan for every duct... this means 4 ducts = 8 slow spinnging 120mm fans !!!...... can this really be good for low noise ?
No! As I've got it then intake fans are rather pointless unless you want a specifik airstream over a specific area (chipset or so). If your ducting you don't need intake fans. If the intake fan is slower that exhaust it can acctually prevent the airflow some.
Push/pull effect doesn't raise the airflow but only the static preassure. Sometimes it might be good in tight areas but mostley it isn't usefull[/quote]

IsaacKuo
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Re: Design advice for building a selfmade case.

Post by IsaacKuo » Thu May 04, 2006 5:40 pm

qstoffe wrote: I'm thinking of "ducting". Seperate ducts for:
* CPU
* VGA
* HDDs
* PSU
It's generally more efficient to "recycle" HDD air to other components. In a traditional ATX case, air which cools the hard drives then goes on to cool the rest of the components.
However making all these ducts requires atleast one fan/duct.
Not necessarily. You can have just one or two intake fans which then feed air to many different ducts. Alternatively, you can have one or two exhaust fans which suck air from many different ducts.
My question is (if anyone has an idea): what will be best for LOW noise. Many ducts means many low spinning fans... however fewer ducts (i.e. combining CPU & VGA ducts) would mean fewer fans but at higher speeds (rpm).
I am increasingly of the opinion that complex ducting is just plain counterproductive. I've tried out different airflow strategies, and it seems like the ones which work out best are nice and simple. I think there are two basic strategies which really work better than all the others:

1. A "U-turn" airflow path. This is where air enters into a rear intake, goes forward and takes a "U-turn", and then exists out rear exhaust. My hottest workstation uses this strategy to cool the entire rig with one low flow 80mm fan; my file server/workstation also uses this strategy with a 120mm fan.

and

2. A "straight-thru" airflow path. This is where air enters front intakes and travels straight back to rear exhausts. Airflow doesn't bend at all, making this very efficient.

The "U-turn" strategy is best for low noise. It can cool a moderate power system silently with a single fan. The only openings for noise to escape are in the rear. However, if a system is powerful enough to warrant two fans...

The "straight-thru" strategy is best for a high power system. With a straight-thru strategy, you can get all of the benefits of ducting without complex ducts. Each of the main components gets fresh air from the front and exhausts warm air out the rear. No components have to deal with air that's already been warmed by other major components. However, the front intakes represent a more direct sound escape path.

Once you've chosen your basic airflow strategy, then you can think about fan placement. There are three good fan placement strategies:

1. Positive pressure strategy--only intake fans.

2. Negative pressure strategy--only exhaust fans.

or

3. Mid-fan placement--fans are in the middle of the airflow path rather than one end or the other.

If you're using a traditional PSU without doing any modifications, then a negative pressure strategy is the best. The PSU already has an exhaust fan acting to provide negative pressure. However, you can usually easily modify a PSU to act as an intake just by flipping its fan. Also, a non-traditional placement of PSU can place it in the "middle" of the airflow path. Aside from that, the pro/cons of fan placement are:

1. Intake fans can be a little more efficient at utilizing airflow. The air leaving the fan has a swirling motion which adds a little extra cooling effectiveness. However, this extra airflow can result in turbulence and noise.

2. Exhaust fans can be a little quieter. At minimum speed, the "lost airflow" from the swirling exhaust turbulence can actually be a plus. Essentially, it means that the minimum airflow from the fan is lowered a bit. There's a little less airflow within the case and potentially smoother airflow--so a little less noise.

3. Internal fans may be quieter due to the fact that they are deep within the case. This is a matter of open debate. Mike Chin feels that at very low noise levels, fans are actually quieter when placed externally. According to his experience, internal fans cause more air cavity resonance. I've noticed this effect also, but I believe this effect can be more than made up for with muffling and ensuring clean smooth airflow.
Another question that someone might have tested. When placing a fan right next to the CPU-cooler (like a Nexus 120mm next to a Ninja): how does noise/cooling get affected if you have more or less space between the cooler and the fan. I have a feeling that fans that has more "free space" on both sides are less noisy... but how is cooling affected ? And what would be an "optimal" distance ?
Having some distance is definitely beneficial! Backpressure and turbulence effects harm both the airflow and noise levels when the fan is mounted too closely. I find that about an inch of space is sufficient in either direction. However, if you're using the fan to "suck" air from a heatsink, you MUST have a duct between the fan and the heatsink. Otherwise, massive amounts of air will bypass the heatsink and leak in from the "edges".

If you're using a fan to blow toward a heatsink, then you can actually have several inches between the fan and the heatsink and it'll still be effective. Air leaving a fan tends to be very directional. HOWEVER, it's critically important that there be nothing obstructing the fan immediately in front of it. For example, consider a 120mm PSU with its fan flipped. My experience is that the air leaving this fan will be directed in strange off-axis directions. It's not at all like a tubular "column" of air. In order to get a decent tubular "column" of air from a flipped fan PSU, the fan needs to be mounted on the outside of the PSU case.
PS. You should know that right now I'm considering going fan-o-crazy in my design by using both intake and exhaust -fan for every duct... this means 4 ducts = 8 slow spinnging 120mm fans !!!...... can this really be good for low noise ?
I concur with McBanjo. This is not a good idea. The only time a push-pull arrangement of fans is a good idea is when there's an excessive amount of air restriction. Since you're building a case from scratch, you should avoid excessive air resistance in the first place.

qstoffe
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Post by qstoffe » Fri May 05, 2006 12:07 pm

Ok thanks for the detailed responses !!! :D

Here are som pics of what I designed BEFORE I read your responses. Sorry for spamming pics now, but a picture can explain alot sometimes.

Image
1. The fan-o-crazy design. 2 DVDs at the top. 2 Hdds in the middle (enclosed in SlientDrives). The PSU at the bottom.

Image
2. Same as 1 but with real textures

Image
3. Motherboard, Ninja and gfx-card.

Image
4. Same as 3 but with real textures


In my own experince, using "negative pressure strategy"/only exhaust fans: does not produce good enough cooling. I currently own a Intel 3.4Ghz and a 6800GT but I'm planning on upgrading this winter and thats really the reason why I'm going to build this SILENT case. Since I will buy the absolutely fastest CPU & GPU available (at this winter or early next year) the case must provide really good cooling. Naturally I will replace CPU & GPU stock-coolers against more quiet one's but since I'm doing this case from scratch I would like the case to be near silent. Damn it.... it aint easy without testing though. And I would hate having to re-build this case just because there is a flaw in the design for airflow causing insufficent cooling... or even worse not being silent enough. :D

I've been much more succesful when using "positive pressure strategy"/only intake fans, in reguards of cooling performance. Though it might just be because I've been poor at implementing "negative pressure strategy" I feel this way. I also have a "feeling" that noisiest area around a fan is the area that air is flowing towards. Thus meaning if you only have intake fans the noisy area is just inside the case. On the the other hand the fans has to be placed closer to yourself (in front or side of the case).

However I wonder if a Nexus 120mm fan can spin slower than about 600rpm on 5V. What happens if you just feed it with 3V for instance ? Does it not spin at all then ? Cause if you could "strangle" a 120mm fan down to 200-300 rpm you could still use the "fan-o-crazy" design with both good airflow and minimum noise.... or can you !?!? What am I missing when thinking along this line of thought since you feel that using fewer fans is the key to silence !?!??!!!!!????

About my design. The pictures I've rendered (and displaying in this post) are premature and so far only used so that I can play around with differnt airflows designs visually. Later I'm going to deal with details as exactly how I will fasten fans & motherboard on the plywoodboards and so on (maybe I'll ask for advice on that here :wink: ). Also I plan to cover EVERY inch of the plywood-surface inside the case with sound-damping material.

Now after reading your responses I tried reducing the number of fans to 3. Question is.... should I aim for even fewer fans... or should I experiment with "fan-strangle" (extremly slowspinning fans) ? Opinions... anyone !?!?

Here are some pics from the 3-fan design:

Image
5. One intake fan for CPU & GPU. Another fan placed next to the Ninja CPU-cooler. One intake fan for both the enclosed HDDs and PSU

Image
6. Here's what it looks like when the sides are covered up. I've also added a front panel in order to silence to intake fans a little. The intake of air is coming from the sides instead of directly from the front. The front has been made transparent in this pic. The plywoodboards are'nt alignt exactly just beacuse I'm lazy when using the 3D-program :)

Image
7. Same as 6 but now from the side and without the side cover and inner front panel.

Image
8. Same as 6, with sidecover and inner front-panel. As you can see there some space between fan/inner front panel and the outer front panel, allowing for intake of air on the sides.


Hmmm... I've been thinking about another thing. What about dust. How much cooling is lost (from the fan air intake) when adding a standard dustfilter in front of an intake fan and how much does it stop dust from getting inside the case ? Is it worth it !? Or is it better just to clean the case once every month ?

jaganath
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Post by jaganath » Fri May 05, 2006 12:49 pm

I currently own a Intel 3.4Ghz and a 6800GT but I'm planning on upgrading this winter and thats really the reason why I'm going to build this SILENT case.
No case with 8 120mm fans will be silent or even close to silent (unless they're all turning at ~200 rpm, in which case they won't push any air at all.
Since I will buy the absolutely fastest CPU & GPU available (at this winter or early next year) the case must provide really good cooling.
If you're going to intentionally buy very hot components you should think about watercooling.
I also have a "feeling" that noisiest area around a fan is the area that air is flowing towards. Thus meaning if you only have intake fans the noisy area is just inside the case.
Fans emit noise omni-directionally. There is no factual basis to this "feeling".
However I wonder if a Nexus 120mm fan can spin slower than about 600rpm on 5V. What happens if you just feed it with 3V for instance ?
Nexus fans don't start below 5V (some don't even start below 6V).
Cause if you could "strangle" a 120mm fan down to 200-300 rpm you could still use the "fan-o-crazy" design with both good airflow and minimum noise.... or can you !?!?
At 200rpm even a 120mm fan will push negligible amounts of air.
What about dust. How much cooling is lost (from the fan air intake) when adding a standard dustfilter in front of an intake fan and how much does it stop dust from getting inside the case ? Is it worth it !? Or is it better just to clean the case once every month ?
Any filter will reduce CFM; if the holes in the mesh are too big, it won't stop the dust, and if the holes are too small, it will choke the airflow. If you are going with a low-airflow design you can't afford to lose any more CFM, so just clean the case whenever necessary.

IsaacKuo
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Post by IsaacKuo » Fri May 05, 2006 2:32 pm

qstoffe, your diagrams are very professional looking! My main concern with the designs you've shown is cable length. If you have very long cables, then doing things "inside-out" like you have it makes it easy to access everything from the outside. However, you might be in for a nasty shock trying to get cables to reach. If you do things in the more traditional way--mounting the motherboard on one side rather than the middle--then it's more likely cables will reach.

Another concern I have is that you've put relatively little space between the front "bezel" and the fan. 120mm fans need a decent amount of "breathing room" to avoid restrictiveness.
jaganath wrote:
I also have a "feeling" that noisiest area around a fan is the area that air is flowing towards. Thus meaning if you only have intake fans the noisy area is just inside the case.
Fans emit noise omni-directionally. There is no factual basis to this "feeling".
I find that fans emit noise which varies quite a lot with direction. They generally seem to generate more noise along the axis than out to the "sides", and maybe emit a bit more noise in the "exhaust" direction than the "intake" direction.

But the directionality of the noise gets radically altered when placed in/on an actual case compared to what it's like in open air. The changes are...well...I have no idea how to "predict" it. I'd agree with Jaganath that there's no a priori reason to expect intake fans will necessarily be less noisy than exhaust fans.

Given your basic straight-thru design, you should design in the ability to have either the intake fans or the exhaust fans or both. Then, you can experiment with what gives you the best results. You don't need to lock yourself into a particular fan placement strategy.

qstoffe
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Post by qstoffe » Sat May 06, 2006 1:05 am

jaganath wrote:If you're going to intentionally buy very hot components you should think about watercooling.
I was thinking along the line of watercooling at the beginning but since I've never build a water-cooled system before it could get tricky (getting water pump quiet and so). The only really quiet one I've heard about is Zalman's reserator kit and since I don't want any external parts (I must be able to carry my case in one piece) I've have to build it inside the case. That would be an option, though it would be rather large and heavy. I'm also a little skeptical of watercooling since I've heard about alot of accidents with water leakage.
IsaacKuo wrote:qstoffe, your diagrams are very professional looking! My main concern with the designs you've shown is cable length. If you have very long cables, then doing things "inside-out" like you have it makes it easy to access everything from the outside. However, you might be in for a nasty shock trying to get cables to reach. If you do things in the more traditional way--mounting the motherboard on one side rather than the middle--then it's more likely cables will reach.
Yeah this will be a problem. A small hole must be made in the plywoodboard on wich the motherboard is sitting on in order to get sata cables to motherboard and so. But plain power cords from the PSU... I plan on "cutting" these off and extending them myself (a little crazy, I know) since they are just plain copper wires and not shielded or anything complicated or so.
IsaacKuo wrote:Another concern I have is that you've put relatively little space between the front "bezel" and the fan. 120mm fans need a decent amount of "breathing room" to avoid restrictiveness.
Yes. I just found a good thread about using multible fans / noise affects. And after reading it I'm thinking of increasing the number of fans to maybe 4 Nexus 120 fans @ 5V BUT with the difference the they will be placed in the middle of the case - meaning NO intake or exhaust fans. This might be good since I plan on using thick sound-damping on the inside of the case.

The multible fan post:
http://forums.silentpcreview.com/viewtopic.php?t=19297

MikeC says:
"The issue of multiple vs single fans is clear with the Nexus 120. Two of them at 6V move as much air as a single one at 12V, and make 2-3 dBA LESS NOISE!!"

"... I could not tell whether one fan was on or two fans from a meter away."

"...Finally, the reality is that I have built many multiple fan systems with perceived noise levels at or below the threshold of background noise. The entire first post is a counterpoint to the instinct that tells most people that fewer fans will be better (read: quieter) than more fans. My point is that it ain't necessarily so."

Cerb
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Yeah, wooden case...

Post by Cerb » Sat May 06, 2006 8:53 am

1. Don't use plywood. I repeat: don't use plywood! A normal piece of wood will do well, as will some semi-artifical materials. Plywood, even thick, is just horrible about transferring vibration.

2. Negative pressure has not worked as well in your experience likely because of obstructions to the air flow. If short cards are used in a typical case, and cables pretty much out of the way, negative pressure works well.

3. What about, since you're going vertical, setting the optical drives above the CPU, and the HDD and PSU under the mobo? Then, with either positive or negative pressure, you can get down to three fans+PSU, or use the PSU fan for the HDD cooling, and leave that compartment without any other fan. If it's a high performance system, having a fan each for the CPU and video card, even if they aren't explicitly ducted, aught to be good.

4. A dust filter is good. Even if using negative pressure, it's good.

5. My only Nexus sometimes won't start at 5v (that's actually what brought me to SPCR at this time!). 7v is pretty quiet. I'm looking into either have a relay with some timing method to go from 12v to a lower voltage, or making custom fan controllers that somehow start at 12v. Maybe some common ones do this, but I don't think so.

6. Don't necessarily buy the absolute fastest. Look in the VGA section, where folks are using ZM80D coolers on 7x00 cards with much success. You should really base it on the fastest that can be easily cooled. Having a FX 5900XT that isn't keen on silence anymore...trust me, a hair lower performance may be worth it, if it comes to that (there's also a chance nVidia's will be fastest and cool, too, though).

7. <dalek>I-so-late!</dalek> It looks like you've got something for the HDDs. Make sure the fans have some rubber, or foam, or something. It'll just make it easier, overall, I think (as I redo mine to be more friendly to that). Since you're building from scratch, when you get to details, try assuming the fans will not be directly mounted.

Good luck...and we want pics when it's being made! :)

Gorsnak
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Re: Yeah, wooden case...

Post by Gorsnak » Sat May 06, 2006 9:46 am

Cerb wrote:1. Don't use plywood. I repeat: don't use plywood! A normal piece of wood will do well, as will some semi-artifical materials. Plywood, even thick, is just horrible about transferring vibration.
It depends on the plywood. Most pro audio speaker cabinets (you know, the kind you see hanging in auditoriums and churches) use 13-ply baltic birch plywood for their enclosures, because it's less resonant than most other suitable materials. Plywood of similar thickness and density should be superior to solid planks as the different plies will each have different resonant characteristics, which will have some tendency to cancel each other out. If the comparison is between 1/4" (or even 3/4") spruce plywood and 3/4" oak boards, well, yeah, the oak will be superior for the OP's purposes (not to mention vastly more expensive). But if we're talking about 3/4" birch plywood it should be slightly better than similar thickness hardwoods, and substantially better than similar thickness softwoods. Plywood also has the advantage of not changing in size and shape in variable humidity. MDF has similar advantages to plywood, as well as avoiding the ugly appearance of plywood end-grain, assuming one cares about appearances.

qstoffe
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Post by qstoffe » Sat May 06, 2006 9:53 am

Again, thanks for the all great advice that all of you have given me so far :D

Cerb wrote:1. Don't use plywood. I repeat: don't use plywood! A normal piece of wood will do well, as will some semi-artifical materials. Plywood, even thick, is just horrible about transferring vibration.
Ok. Good to know this before I start !! :D
So now I'm thinking of using particle-boards about 0,65 inches thick. Is this material good or better than plywood ? .... anyone !?
Cerb wrote:5. My only Nexus sometimes won't start at 5v (that's actually what brought me to SPCR at this time!). 7v is pretty quiet. I'm looking into either have a relay with some timing method to go from 12v to a lower voltage, or making custom fan controllers that somehow start at 12v. Maybe some common ones do this, but I don't think so.
Ok. I'm thinking of using the fanmate controller on which you can put up to 4 fans and manually adjust speed. Or maybe this would mean to much "loose" cables in the case.... I will see.
Cerb wrote:Good luck...and we want pics when it's being made! :)
Thanks ! Well I'm actually building this case for the hardware upgrade I'm going to do around this winter/early next year. So I will proceed verly carefully when building this case (naturally I want everything to be perfect). So I probably won't start building the case until late this summer but then I will be sure to post some in IRL progress pics :)

qstoffe
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Re: Yeah, wooden case...

Post by qstoffe » Sat May 06, 2006 10:00 am

Gorsnak wrote:
Cerb wrote:1. Don't use plywood. I repeat: don't use plywood! A normal piece of wood will do well, as will some semi-artifical materials. Plywood, even thick, is just horrible about transferring vibration.
It depends on the plywood. Most pro audio speaker cabinets (you know, the kind you see hanging in auditoriums and churches) use 13-ply baltic birch plywood for their enclosures, because it's less resonant than most other suitable materials. Plywood of similar thickness and density should be superior to solid planks as the different plies will each have different resonant characteristics, which will have some tendency to cancel each other out. If the comparison is between 1/4" (or even 3/4") spruce plywood and 3/4" oak boards, well, yeah, the oak will be superior for the OP's purposes (not to mention vastly more expensive). But if we're talking about 3/4" birch plywood it should be slightly better than similar thickness hardwoods, and substantially better than similar thickness softwoods. Plywood also has the advantage of not changing in size and shape in variable humidity. MDF has similar advantages to plywood, as well as avoiding the ugly appearance of plywood end-grain, assuming one cares about appearances.

Hmmm you seem to know alot more than me about "wood acoustic"-properies. What would you recommend I use as building material ?
Last edited by qstoffe on Sat May 06, 2006 1:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Gorsnak
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Re: Yeah, wooden case...

Post by Gorsnak » Sat May 06, 2006 10:39 am

qstoffe wrote:Hmmm you seem to know alot more than me about "wood acoustic"-properies. What would you recommend I use as building materiel ?
Err....it depends. I myself ignored all the advice in my previous post and used solid softwood planks to build my case. I thought that the tradeoffs would be small enough that aesthetic and economic gains would be worth it, and I'm completely satisfied with the results. However, a lot depends on your woodworking skills. It's not at all easy to make a furniture-grade computer case from the material I used. I'm not saying this to toot my own horn - my case has numerous defects that don't show up in the pictures. It doesn't look bad, but it doesn't look like the work of a professional cabinetmaker.

For a relative amateur, the best material is probably MDF (medium-density fiberboard). I'd suggest a thickness of about 3/4" (I presume you get metric stuff there, but I'm not sure what the standard dimensions are) for the outside shell. Inner partitions could be thinner, though I wouldn't go below 1/2". MDF has the advantage of being reasonably priced and very easy to work with, as well as having quite good acoustic qualities for your goals. Cutting/sanding it produces a lot of very fine dust, though, so keep that in mind during construction. Particleboard (as in, the stuff under the veneer of the cheap shelving from IKEA) would be a possibility, but is inferior in strength. Chunks tend to chip out of it and screws don't hold very well in it (as anyone who's assembled that sort of furniture can tell you). Birch plywood would be very good, but I believe it would be rather more expensive than MDF. Spruce plywood is cheap, but will be acoustically inferior to MDF. Plus MDF is always dead flat, while spruce plywood, particularly thinner stuff, often has a bit of warp in it.

On the other hand, if you're a very good woodworker and expense isn't an issue, solid oak, maple, or some other hardwood would be excellent. Someday.....someday.... :)

qstoffe
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Re: Yeah, wooden case...

Post by qstoffe » Sat May 06, 2006 2:47 pm

Gorsnak wrote:Err....it depends. I myself ignored all the advice in my previous post and used solid softwood planks to build my case.
Oh sorry. I did'nt realize it was you. Your wood-case article is the reason I decided to build my own wood-case to begin with :D
Gorsnak wrote:However, a lot depends on your woodworking skills. It's not at all easy to make a furniture-grade computer case from the material I used.
My woodworking skills are rather non-existent. :( Sure I've built some more crude things in wood like my garage but never something finer crafted such as wood-furniture. Thats one of the reasons I considered plywood to begin with since I know it's easy to work with. However using MDF-boards seems like much better alternative. Thanks for the hint! :)

I also looked at birch plywood but I saw it was rather expensive as you said. It would cost about 120$ for my needs. Using MDF-boards, the cost would be about 40$. If you consider birch plywood superior to MDF-boards I might check it out further. Otherwise I think I will go with the MDF-boards.
Gorsnak wrote:On the other hand, if you're a very good woodworker and expense isn't an issue, solid oak, maple, or some other hardwood would be excellent. Someday.....someday.... :)
Hehe.. I would really like to se another article if you decide to build another wood-case since I liked your first very much :)

Gorsnak
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Post by Gorsnak » Sat May 06, 2006 3:50 pm

I doubt you'd have any significant gains (acoustically speaking) using birch instead of MDF. Certainly not enough to justify that price difference, assuming that price is an issue. MDF is about as easy to work with as anything, too. Just remember that even small screws in MDF require pilot holes - in that respect it is more like a hardwood than a softwood.

I've no plans on building a new case in the near future, as the one I have has performed flawlessly over the past year. Aside from adding a passive Gigabyte 6600GT graphics card, I've scarcely even opened it up. Sometime fairly soon I'm going to want to add a second hdd (or maybe just replace the noisy WD 80GB with something larger and quieter), and in a year or so I'll probably upgrade the mobo/cpu/ram. But all in all I couldn't be happier with what I achieved with my project. It's extremely rare that I can hear anything from the case. Just, occasionally, if it's very quiet in my apt and I'm taxing the processor, I can just make out the coil hiss/chatter coming off the motherboard.

I wouldn't expect an upgrade to overtax my cooling, either. While the multiple ducts you're thinking of might help with a high-powered gaming machine with a really hot gpu, I find that my system with just the psu split off from the rest of the machine stays at very reasonable temperatures, even with the sole 120mm Nexus exhaust fan running at about 7.5v (mine doesn't start reliably at 5v, and I want some margin of error for startup because I'll never hear if it isn't running). And if need be, I could mount it better and spin it up faster without any noise penalty. So, not to knock your ideas at all, but I'd probably try to simplify things if I were you. Perhaps just one or two chambers, and split the cpu off from the gpu with a bit of ductwork like in the "DIY overclocked D830" article.

qstoffe
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Joined: Tue Apr 25, 2006 1:32 pm
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Post by qstoffe » Sun May 07, 2006 12:29 am

Gorsnak wrote:I doubt you'd have any significant gains (acoustically speaking) using birch instead of MDF. Certainly not enough to justify that price difference, assuming that price is an issue.
Of course price is and issue :) Even though I will spend alot of money on PC-hardware and case materials I still want the pricetags to somewhat match/justify thier actual effect/performance.
Gorsnak wrote:MDF is about as easy to work with as anything, too. Just remember that even small screws in MDF require pilot holes - in that respect it is more like a hardwood than a softwood.
Thanks for the hint :D I guess I will have a lot of pre-drilling to do. I'm planning of using small screws and wood-glue.
Gorsnak wrote:I wouldn't expect an upgrade to overtax my cooling, either. While the multiple ducts you're thinking of might help with a high-powered gaming machine with a really hot gpu, I find that my system with just the psu split off from the rest of the machine stays at very reasonable temperatures...

...So, not to knock your ideas at all, but I'd probably try to simplify things if I were you. Perhaps just one or two chambers, and split the cpu off from the gpu with a bit of ductwork like in the "DIY overclocked D830" article.
Yes. I will probably cut back a little on the ducts like using only one duct for both HDDs and PSU. I really like your air-intake idea, taking in air from the bottom of the case. For noise-aspect having the front side completly soundproof while taking in air from the bottom seems like a really good idea. The only thing I'm worried abuot, when using "bottom-intake" scheme, is dust. I myself have plastic floors but I still see alot of dust build-ups near my computer. Have you had any problems with dust intake in your case ?

Gorsnak
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Joined: Sun Nov 23, 2003 6:27 pm
Location: Saskatoon, SK

Post by Gorsnak » Sun May 07, 2006 7:22 am

My case has had less dust buildup than most of my previous cases (for the most part cheap beige boxes), and that's with absolutely no dust filter and leaving it untouched for months on end. I think it's because the airspeed at the intake is very low.

I should probably point out that on a hard floor (as opposed to carpet) the bottom intake won't be quite as effective at preventing noise leakage. Part of what makes mine work is that the carpet actually absorbs most of the sound coming out the bottom, where a hard floor would reflect it. It should still be better than a front intake, though, and in a pinch you could set the case on a doormat or something.

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