I'd appreciate your opinions on this new $1,500 build
Moderators: NeilBlanchard, Ralf Hutter, sthayashi, Lawrence Lee
I'd appreciate your opinions on this new $1,500 build
Hello everyone. I'd appreciate opinions on my proposed new (and first ever) build below, particularly from the noise perspective, obviously. I only plan a very moderate overclocking of the CPU to 3.0GHz. Do I have enough cooling, and is the cooling silent enough? Without spending an additional arm or leg, and without going to extremes, is there anything else I can do to make this build as silent as possible? Thanks in advance for your time.
Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 Kentsfield 2.4GHz LGA 775 Quad-Core Processor Model BX80562Q6600 - Retail
Antec P182 Gun Metal Black 0.8mm cold rolled steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case - Retail
GIGABYTE GA-P35-DS3L LGA 775 Intel P35 ATX All Solid Capacitor Intel Motherboard - Retail
EVGA 512-P3-N841-AR GeForce 8800GTS (G92) 512MB 256-bit GDDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16
CORSAIR CMPSU-620HX ATX12V v2.2 and EPS12V 2.91 620W Power Supply - Retail
G.SKILL 4GB(2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model F2-6400CL5D-4GBPQ - Retail
Seagate Barracuda 7200.11 ST3500320AS 500GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive - OEM
SAMSUNG 226BW Black 22" 2 ms (GTG) Widescreen LCD Monitor - Retail
SAMSUNG 20X DVD±R DVD Burner with LightScribe Black SATA Model SH-S203N - OEM
ARCTIC COOLING Freezer 7 Pro 92mm CPU Cooler - Retail
Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 Kentsfield 2.4GHz LGA 775 Quad-Core Processor Model BX80562Q6600 - Retail
Antec P182 Gun Metal Black 0.8mm cold rolled steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case - Retail
GIGABYTE GA-P35-DS3L LGA 775 Intel P35 ATX All Solid Capacitor Intel Motherboard - Retail
EVGA 512-P3-N841-AR GeForce 8800GTS (G92) 512MB 256-bit GDDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16
CORSAIR CMPSU-620HX ATX12V v2.2 and EPS12V 2.91 620W Power Supply - Retail
G.SKILL 4GB(2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model F2-6400CL5D-4GBPQ - Retail
Seagate Barracuda 7200.11 ST3500320AS 500GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive - OEM
SAMSUNG 226BW Black 22" 2 ms (GTG) Widescreen LCD Monitor - Retail
SAMSUNG 20X DVD±R DVD Burner with LightScribe Black SATA Model SH-S203N - OEM
ARCTIC COOLING Freezer 7 Pro 92mm CPU Cooler - Retail
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Hello & welcome to SPCR!
Going down the list; the P182 is a lot bigger than is necessary for this system -- maybe consider the Solo, since it adds the ability to suspend the hard drive(s), and it is simpler to work with.
The power supply is much more than you need -- the new Enermax Modu82+ 425 would still be plenty, and a quieter, more efficient choice.
The 7200.11 are quieter than some of the earlier Seagates, but not as quiet as some other brands. I would choose the Western Digital SE16 2-platter 640GB, I think.
Since you are overclocking, I would get a bigger HSF.
Going down the list; the P182 is a lot bigger than is necessary for this system -- maybe consider the Solo, since it adds the ability to suspend the hard drive(s), and it is simpler to work with.
The power supply is much more than you need -- the new Enermax Modu82+ 425 would still be plenty, and a quieter, more efficient choice.
The 7200.11 are quieter than some of the earlier Seagates, but not as quiet as some other brands. I would choose the Western Digital SE16 2-platter 640GB, I think.
Since you are overclocking, I would get a bigger HSF.
Thanks for the quick reply and thank you for the welcome! I've been reading here for awhile and it's been very rewarding.
I'll check on your recommendations.
I've been struggling with the HS & HSF choice. I see that the Thermalright extreme is very highly thought of here but believe it's a bit overkill for me. Some people have told me I could get away with the stock Intel unit, but I'm not so sure.
I see from the reviews that the Scythe SCNJ-1000 Ninja is rated well but I can't seem to find that model on Newegg, just a more expensive copper version. Am I on the right track? After I posted, I saw that the Artic Freezer Pro I selected isn't high on the list here noise-wise. Any further recommendations in this specific area would be great.
Thanks again!
I'll check on your recommendations.
I've been struggling with the HS & HSF choice. I see that the Thermalright extreme is very highly thought of here but believe it's a bit overkill for me. Some people have told me I could get away with the stock Intel unit, but I'm not so sure.
I see from the reviews that the Scythe SCNJ-1000 Ninja is rated well but I can't seem to find that model on Newegg, just a more expensive copper version. Am I on the right track? After I posted, I saw that the Artic Freezer Pro I selected isn't high on the list here noise-wise. Any further recommendations in this specific area would be great.
Thanks again!
Well, what do you want to do with your new computer? If you are planning to do mostly gaming and general stuff, you're better off buying an E8000 series dual core over the Q6600 quad, both performance and power consumption/noise wise.
For overclocking the Q6600, the Freezer 7 Pro will not be very close to being silent, although it may be enough for oc'ing a E8000 dual core.
I'll assist Neil in the advice to take a smaller case and PSU. The saved money would be well-invested in a Accelero S1 for your graphics card and a beefier CPU cooler (if you're really going down the quad core route).
For the E8000 series option, there would be lots of possible near-silent cooling solutions: U-120, Ninja Rev. B, or even a Termalright SI 128, which you could obtain for little money will do the job.
Btw, the Samsung monitor is a very nice piece. Non-glossy screen, no buzzing (I recently installed 5 in our office), and lots of screen real estate.
Although it doesn't make real sense right now to get quad core unless you really need it right now, I do totally understand the appeal it has;) But keep in mind that the next Intel architecture with a new socket and integrated memory controllers is around the corner (1Q2009). So when you don't need quad now, wait until next year and get dual now.
For overclocking the Q6600, the Freezer 7 Pro will not be very close to being silent, although it may be enough for oc'ing a E8000 dual core.
I'll assist Neil in the advice to take a smaller case and PSU. The saved money would be well-invested in a Accelero S1 for your graphics card and a beefier CPU cooler (if you're really going down the quad core route).
For the E8000 series option, there would be lots of possible near-silent cooling solutions: U-120, Ninja Rev. B, or even a Termalright SI 128, which you could obtain for little money will do the job.
Btw, the Samsung monitor is a very nice piece. Non-glossy screen, no buzzing (I recently installed 5 in our office), and lots of screen real estate.
Although it doesn't make real sense right now to get quad core unless you really need it right now, I do totally understand the appeal it has;) But keep in mind that the next Intel architecture with a new socket and integrated memory controllers is around the corner (1Q2009). So when you don't need quad now, wait until next year and get dual now.
Yeah, no problem here, but I'd recommend the DS3 over the DS3L if it's not much more expensive. The other DS3's (not-L) are supposed to have better capacitors (Japanese capacitors, no idea why they're supposedly better but everyone seems to think so), a better electric circuitry and most importantly a better Northbridge heatsink (can be important if you overclock). If you don't save more than $15 on the DS3L compared to the DS3, I'd recommend the latter. Otherwise, both are okay.BlueSun wrote:Could I just substitute that for the Q6600 on my proposed build without switching the mobo?
At that price, that's a stealBlueSun wrote:Microcenter also has the P182 for $82 w/ rebate. That's pretty cheap too.
As mexell said, if you can get a cheap Ninja (passive), that would be good.
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http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6835185038BlueSun wrote:I see from the reviews that the Scythe SCNJ-1000 Ninja is rated well but I can't seem to find that model on Newegg, just a more expensive copper version. Am I on the right track?
This right?
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Re: I'd appreciate your opinions on this new $1,500 build
Great deal, I got one myself.BlueSun wrote:GIGABYTE GA-P35-DS3L LGA 775 Intel P35 ATX All Solid Capacitor Intel Motherboard - Retail
However, it suited some older parallel/serial peripherals I still use. If you don't have a need for compatibility with older stuff, you could find a better option with more modern peripheral support on the rear panel, i.e. firewire.
There are 3 versions of varying quality - be sure you get the S model. Check in the monitor itself - don't just look at the back label (see link for details).BlueSun wrote:SAMSUNG 226BW Black 22" 2 ms (GTG) Widescreen LCD Monitor - Retail
I also highly recommend the E8x00 processor series, but good luck finding one. For example...
...tried clicking "Add to Bag"?BlueSun wrote:I JUST noticed that Microcenter has the E8400 for $199. That's pretty compelling.
You'll probably have to ebay one for a ridiculous price.
Oh. OK. I guess NewEgg doesn't stock the 1000, or is temporarily out. I'll try looking for these elsewhere. Thanks.angelkiller wrote:The 1100 refers to the Scythe Ninja Plus RevB, which is the latest revision. The 1000 model is the original Scythe Ninja. 1000P is the Ninja Plus. I don't know the differences between them though.
Re: I'd appreciate your opinions on this new $1,500 build
I see. Well, yes, we still use an older HPLJ+ which uses parallel so I guess I'll probably stick with that one.D Incorporated wrote:However, it suited some older parallel/serial peripherals I still use. If you don't have a need for compatibility with older stuff, you could find a better option with more modern peripheral support on the rear panel, i.e. firewire.
Thanks but how do I do that if ordering online?D Incorporated wrote:There are 3 versions of varying quality - be sure you get the S model. Check in the monitor itself - don't just look at the back label (see link for details).
DOH! Thought it was too good to be true.D Incorporated wrote:...tried clicking "Add to Bag"?
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Re: I'd appreciate your opinions on this new $1,500 build
Pay & Pray?BlueSun wrote:Thanks but how do I do that if ordering online?D Incorporated wrote:There are 3 versions of varying quality - be sure you get the S model. Check in the monitor itself - don't just look at the back label (see link for details).
Heh honestly, there's only a couple things I don't order online, and monitors/televisions are some of them. If you get a bad model, need repairs or exchanges or whatever, it's just so much easier to drive over to the store and deal with it there. Shipping those things is a hassle both in terms of packaging and cost, not to mention the wait in processing. Plus, I always want to see my displays in person before purchasing them.
If it's any consolation though, the vast majority of those displays are S models, and chances are highly likely you'll get one.
The Ninja 1000 is the original, and best, version. It has not been available for quite a while. You might find one on eBay. The 1100 is the RevB, which uses a compromised push-pin mounting system. The copper Ninja appears to be a dud: don't buy.
I have an original Ninja and have been totally satisfied from the start. Newer versions meet with much less happy reviews.
If you're set on a Q6600 (which is quite old and power-hungry), consider a TRUE. But as others have said, a newer 8xxx CPU is probably a better choice, and certainly consumes less power. As a result, there are several second-tier HSFs that would work well for you.
I have an original Ninja and have been totally satisfied from the start. Newer versions meet with much less happy reviews.
If you're set on a Q6600 (which is quite old and power-hungry), consider a TRUE. But as others have said, a newer 8xxx CPU is probably a better choice, and certainly consumes less power. As a result, there are several second-tier HSFs that would work well for you.
Re: I'd appreciate your opinions on this new $1,500 build
That's good since the local Best Buy is 25% more than the NewEgg price. Not likely I'll go that way.D Incorporated wrote:Plus, I always want to see my displays in person before purchasing them.
If it's any consolation though, the vast majority of those displays are S models, and chances are highly likely you'll get one.
Thanks for the info, though. I hadn't come across that anywhere.
Thanks. Didn't know that either. Looking likely now that I'll get the Xigmatek which also appears highly rated.The Ninja 1000 is the original, and best, version. It has not been available for quite a while. You might find one on eBay. The 1100 is the RevB, which uses a compromised push-pin mounting system. The copper Ninja appears to be a dud: don't buy.
It would be nice to understand when supplies of the newer chips will be available again, there doesn't seem to be anything but rumors out there. I'm not in a tremendous hurry, but I'd like to get this done by the end of next month.If you're set on a Q6600 (which is quite old and power-hungry), consider a TRUE. But as others have said, a newer 8xxx CPU is probably a better choice, and certainly consumes less power. As a result, there are several second-tier HSFs that would work well for you.
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Re: I'd appreciate your opinions on this new $1,500 build
Heh, no problem, I was so glad I found that like right before I considered breaking my store-only creed and newegging the displayBlueSun wrote:That's good since the local Best Buy is 25% more than the NewEgg price. Not likely I'll go that way.
Thanks for the info, though. I hadn't come across that anywhere.
But do consider that retail shops may have higher prices since the shipping of the unit has already been taken care of, so remember to factor in shipping costs from the order website before doing a price comparison. Some displays can run up a considerable shipping charge, not to mention if any returns or exchanges are necessary.
The rebate on the P182 at Microcenter expires at the end of the month. The bottom line is a P182 for $87. I know this is more case than I need for the build outlined above but, for the price and my desire for a decently quiet build, am I really going wrong here? This is not a tougher case to work with than a 'Solo', say, is it?
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Actually, the P182 is a bit more difficult to work with than the Solo due to it's chamber design and positioning of the PSU. In addition it doesn't have the ability to suspend the drives. But for $87 AR, it's not a bad price.
When it comes down it, cases are a personal preference item. Just go with the case that YOU like. The Solo and P182 are both good choices.
When it comes down it, cases are a personal preference item. Just go with the case that YOU like. The Solo and P182 are both good choices.
I too am planning a new build (my first one) for my son, and when I saw the P182 on sale at microcenter i knew it was deal i couldn't refuse. Choosing in store pick up I got it for $114 ($104.99 + NY tax) less $35 MIR = $79. Now i have to decide on everything else. (but that's another thread).BlueSun wrote:The rebate on the P182 at Microcenter expires at the end of the month. The bottom line is a P182 for $87. I know this is more case than I need for the build outlined above but, for the price and my desire for a decently quiet build, am I really going wrong here? This is not a tougher case to work with than a 'Solo', say, is it?