Help me choose the new Heatsink
Moderators: NeilBlanchard, Ralf Hutter, sthayashi, Lawrence Lee
Help me choose the new Heatsink
My computer specifications are INTEL DPERL865 socket 478 , 3.4GHz extreme processors. at the moment i am having a zalman CNPS7700-Cu heatsink runing.
Problem im having when i play flight simulator 2004 CPU getting hot temperature rising in few minutes.in idel temperature stay at 45 celsius. any other best cpu heatsink you guys recommended me.
Problem im having when i play flight simulator 2004 CPU getting hot temperature rising in few minutes.in idel temperature stay at 45 celsius. any other best cpu heatsink you guys recommended me.
-
- Posts: 1839
- Joined: Mon Feb 05, 2007 2:10 pm
- Location: Northern New Jersey
- Contact:
Scythe Ninja. Maybe.
it has socket 478 mounting, but i don't know if it would clear the capacitors on your motherboard.
there are other tower coolers, like the Thermalright Ultra 120 and similar coolers, but i don't know if they have the 478 support or not.
if you're unsure about the security of a 478 adapter of the Scythe Ninja Rev B, look for the Rev A, and it will be much more secure.
it has socket 478 mounting, but i don't know if it would clear the capacitors on your motherboard.
there are other tower coolers, like the Thermalright Ultra 120 and similar coolers, but i don't know if they have the 478 support or not.
if you're unsure about the security of a 478 adapter of the Scythe Ninja Rev B, look for the Rev A, and it will be much more secure.
Doesn't the motherboard have to be removed in order to install Scythe Ninja.
Im thinking to order this
http://www.scythe-usa.com/product/cpu/0 ... etail.html
Im thinking to order this
http://www.scythe-usa.com/product/cpu/0 ... etail.html
-
- Posts: 1839
- Joined: Mon Feb 05, 2007 2:10 pm
- Location: Northern New Jersey
- Contact:
a couple things
1) you're using Socket 478, so no, you don't have to remove the motherboard to install the Scythe Ninja, it has an adapter plate with 4 clips that attach to a standard 478 heatsink bracket. no worries about that part.
2) the Scythe Ninja CU (Copper version) which is what you linked to is definitely not a good idea. the 478 bracket is plastic (i've never seen a metal one). having a 1+ pound heatsink with a strong cantilever effect may not hold well in a situation like that.
http://scythe-usa.com/product/cpu/026/scnj1100p.html
^ that is the version you'll want to be using.
The Copper version is 1,015g which is heavy. The normal Rev.B version is only 640g, which will be much easier on your components as a whole.
that and unless i'm sorely mistaken, there isn't a terribly large difference in the cooling ability of the two heatsinks.
on a side note, if you were to be looking for a metal socket 478 bracket, i wouldn't be able to give you a direction to start looking. only the backplates which stabilize the brackets (which shouldn't be removed) would be made of metal.
1) you're using Socket 478, so no, you don't have to remove the motherboard to install the Scythe Ninja, it has an adapter plate with 4 clips that attach to a standard 478 heatsink bracket. no worries about that part.
2) the Scythe Ninja CU (Copper version) which is what you linked to is definitely not a good idea. the 478 bracket is plastic (i've never seen a metal one). having a 1+ pound heatsink with a strong cantilever effect may not hold well in a situation like that.
http://scythe-usa.com/product/cpu/026/scnj1100p.html
^ that is the version you'll want to be using.
The Copper version is 1,015g which is heavy. The normal Rev.B version is only 640g, which will be much easier on your components as a whole.
that and unless i'm sorely mistaken, there isn't a terribly large difference in the cooling ability of the two heatsinks.
on a side note, if you were to be looking for a metal socket 478 bracket, i wouldn't be able to give you a direction to start looking. only the backplates which stabilize the brackets (which shouldn't be removed) would be made of metal.
-
- Posts: 222
- Joined: Tue Nov 21, 2006 10:53 am
-
- Posts: 222
- Joined: Tue Nov 21, 2006 10:53 am
Replacing the TIM?i dont get it what you mean?
This is a exctaly case i have
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6811112022
This is a exctaly case i have
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6811112022
65C isn't that bad. See if you can configure the monitor so it only gives a warning at higher temps or not at all. If you do attempt to decrease the temp, the high idle temp seems to suggest your case is very hot, so focus on improving airflow in the case. You can also consider undervolting your CPU if this is possible using the BIOS.
-
- Posts: 222
- Joined: Tue Nov 21, 2006 10:53 am
I'm more interested in what the inside of YOUR case looks like. Cable management is an important part of keeping good airflow through the case, allowing heat to escape. You also haven't mentioned what types of case fans you're using. Do you have any pictures of the inside of your case that you could share with us?shirke wrote:This is a exctaly case i have
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6811112022
Hi, the intake on your case looks rather restricted. You've got quite hot components and those holes in front of the intake fans don't look like they let enough air into the case.
Quick test - run your PC with the side panel removed, if the CPU temps don't go up anything like as high then it's a case airflow issue. If even with the side panel off the CPU gets too hot then it's a CPU heatsink issue.
Out of interest do you have a 512k cache "Northwood" or 1024KB "Prescott" CPU? (CPU-Z will tell you which if you don't know)
Regards, Seb
Quick test - run your PC with the side panel removed, if the CPU temps don't go up anything like as high then it's a case airflow issue. If even with the side panel off the CPU gets too hot then it's a CPU heatsink issue.
Out of interest do you have a 512k cache "Northwood" or 1024KB "Prescott" CPU? (CPU-Z will tell you which if you don't know)
Regards, Seb
Hello Shirke, I also had a pc-60, I think what`s limiting the cooling ability of this case is the single 8cm exhaust fan. A power supply with a bigger fan could help a little though it`s a costly upgrade.
Some tips over the top of my head:
Remove the filter of the front fans
If you`re willing to cut the case, remove that restrictive rear fan grill
Try to hide the cables in the 5.25 inch bays/out of the way
Try to underclock/undervolt
What I've found to be most effective though was adding a second exhaust fan (more cutting).
Some tips over the top of my head:
Remove the filter of the front fans
If you`re willing to cut the case, remove that restrictive rear fan grill
Try to hide the cables in the 5.25 inch bays/out of the way
Try to underclock/undervolt
What I've found to be most effective though was adding a second exhaust fan (more cutting).
-
- Posts: 222
- Joined: Tue Nov 21, 2006 10:53 am
... or buy a new case with 120mm fans. Rounded IDE/floppy cables would probably help, too.ntavlas wrote:Hello Shirke, I also had a pc-60, I think what`s limiting the cooling ability of this case is the single 8cm exhaust fan. A power supply with a bigger fan could help a little though it`s a costly upgrade.
Some tips over the top of my head:
Remove the filter of the front fans
If you`re willing to cut the case, remove that restrictive rear fan grill
Try to hide the cables in the 5.25 inch bays/out of the way
Try to underclock/undervolt
What I've found to be most effective though was adding a second exhaust fan (more cutting).
-
- Posts: 1839
- Joined: Mon Feb 05, 2007 2:10 pm
- Location: Northern New Jersey
- Contact: