cooling old socket370
Moderators: NeilBlanchard, Ralf Hutter, sthayashi, Lawrence Lee
cooling old socket370
I currently have the intel boxed heatsink/fan solution for
the p3-933 (coppermine?) its a socket 370 chip,
and after solving other noise problems id like to quiet this down.
Theres the zalman cu 6000? but that seems like it might be overkill. Any reccomendations for silent (or very quiet) heatsinks would be helpful. If i could pick it up locally that would be even better. Ive got a compusa and microcenter somewhat nearby.
Thanks.
the p3-933 (coppermine?) its a socket 370 chip,
and after solving other noise problems id like to quiet this down.
Theres the zalman cu 6000? but that seems like it might be overkill. Any reccomendations for silent (or very quiet) heatsinks would be helpful. If i could pick it up locally that would be even better. Ive got a compusa and microcenter somewhat nearby.
Thanks.
Re: cooling old socket370
Welcome to the forums ambientz. For that processor you really don't need to spend very much to get it quiet.ambientz wrote:I currently have the intel boxed heatsink/fan solution for
the p3-933 (coppermine?) its a socket 370 chip,
and after solving other noise problems id like to quiet this down.
Theres the zalman cu 6000? but that seems like it might be overkill. Any reccomendations for silent (or very quiet) heatsinks would be helpful. If i could pick it up locally that would be even better. Ive got a compusa and microcenter somewhat nearby.
Thanks.
I will recommend the Zalman CNPS-3100 Plus. Rather than using the Zalman fan that comes with the kit, instead use a Papst 4412FGL fan running at around 5 volts. You can accomplish this undervolting with either the Zalman fanmate and a 4-pin to 3-pin adapter, a rheobus (overkill), or with a simple 5 volt wiring adapter that you can make yourself for cheap.
Thermalright coolers (like the SLK 800A for example) with an undervolted 80mm fan also work nicely.
Good luck!
make sure it'll fit, what mobo are you using?
(Not that I could tell you if one would fit or not but perhaps someone here could warn you if it didn't)
I have the same CPU by the way and use an slk-800A with 5V Papst. Mine puts out 24.5W of heat. If you want to go to the extreme, there's the slk-900A but if your socket is near the edge of the mobo it may come too close to your PSU. I can run fanless but the temps are a little high.
(Not that I could tell you if one would fit or not but perhaps someone here could warn you if it didn't)
I have the same CPU by the way and use an slk-800A with 5V Papst. Mine puts out 24.5W of heat. If you want to go to the extreme, there's the slk-900A but if your socket is near the edge of the mobo it may come too close to your PSU. I can run fanless but the temps are a little high.
I swapped out a Thermaltake Orb for an Arctic Cooling Super Silent Pro TC (link to SVC). It took me a while putting it on because I didn't want to disconnect all the cables, and it *just* cleared the capacitors on a CUSL2.
For $10, it's amazing. Very quiet. The fan is temperature controlled. At normal loads, CPU reads 34 C (according to MB) and the fan spins very slowly. I can't give you an RPM figure since either it does not have tach output, or it's too low for the MB.
For $10, it's amazing. Very quiet. The fan is temperature controlled. At normal loads, CPU reads 34 C (according to MB) and the fan spins very slowly. I can't give you an RPM figure since either it does not have tach output, or it's too low for the MB.
In that case, I say go for the Arctic Cooling Super Silent Pro TC.
It doesn't have a lapped finish. In fact, you can see and feel the grooves. Doesn't seem to affect cooling though. Case 26C, CPU 34C when idle, P3 1GHz Coppermine. I used AS5 instead of the supplied silicone compound, but that's because I happened to have a tube lying around.
Installation wasn't too hard, though I wouldn't recommend doing it with the system on the floor, under a table, with a toddler helping. The hardest part for me is getting the movable lever side of the clip to lock on to the socket lugs (or whatever it is called) as I had to do it by touch, while keeping a 1 year old from dropping thumb screws into the PSU. Having a spouse asking from the kitchen "What are you doing to my system again" doesn't help either.
The fan looks like it's spinning so slowly I'm worried that it might sieze. But it hasn't so far (1 week already).
Now to fix the noisy graphics card fan...
It doesn't have a lapped finish. In fact, you can see and feel the grooves. Doesn't seem to affect cooling though. Case 26C, CPU 34C when idle, P3 1GHz Coppermine. I used AS5 instead of the supplied silicone compound, but that's because I happened to have a tube lying around.
Installation wasn't too hard, though I wouldn't recommend doing it with the system on the floor, under a table, with a toddler helping. The hardest part for me is getting the movable lever side of the clip to lock on to the socket lugs (or whatever it is called) as I had to do it by touch, while keeping a 1 year old from dropping thumb screws into the PSU. Having a spouse asking from the kitchen "What are you doing to my system again" doesn't help either.
The fan looks like it's spinning so slowly I'm worried that it might sieze. But it hasn't so far (1 week already).
Now to fix the noisy graphics card fan...
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I've used the $5 GC-68 on dozens and dozens of PIII S370 builds and it does a great job. Add a 5-7V L1A and it will keep your CPU in the mid 40°C range under load and be super quiet as well.
Really? I thought Socket 370 & Socket A are essentially the same. Maybe thats why I had a little trouble attaching? It was very firm though when it finally caught. I tried shifting it around to ensure that it lays flat and I couldn't shift it much.silvervarg wrote:If I remember correctly the clip of the Arctic Cooling Super Silvent Pro TC is not made to Socket 370. Did you have to modify the clip or the socket to make the clip fit?
Perhaps your motherboard use narrow outer lugs on the socket?
The AC SSPTC's clips have 3 holes each. The socket on CUSL2 has 2 tabs on each side. No modding was required.
BTW I tried stopping the fan with my finger. Within seconds it started spinning again at a higher speed, then slowed down again to its normal speed within 5 seconds. Guess I don't have to worry about the fan stopping since then temp. will go up and the fan will be given higher voltage.
I've used this on a lower speed Athlon XP system I helped a friend build as well. That's a few months back, but I remember my first impression is how light it is. I'm sure it's more than adequate for cooling a P3, but the finish and weight makes it feel like a toy.Ralf Hutter wrote:I've used the $5 GC-68 on dozens and dozens of PIII S370 builds and it does a great job. Add a 5-7V L1A and it will keep your CPU in the mid 40°C range under load and be super quiet as well.
Of course, that was 2 days after installing a Thermalright SLK900A on another system, so that might have heavily skewed my perception...
I have a 1.13GHz P3 on a CUSL2 right now. Up until a few minutes ago, it was cooled by a noisy Thermaltake Golden Orb cooler. Under load (Folding@Home), temps reached 55-56C. I just slapped a ThermalRight AX-7 with a 12v Panaflo L1A on it and temps dropped to 45-46C!
The AX-7 might be overkill for a P3, but it's cheap (if you can still find one) and it works.
The AX-7 might be overkill for a P3, but it's cheap (if you can still find one) and it works.
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Socket 370 & Socket A are really almost the same. The got the same height etc, so the clips will have the same force. The only difference is the lugs. Socket A has 3 lugs on 2 sides, with all 6 lugs the same size.Lenny:
Really? I thought Socket 370 & Socket A are essentially the same. Maybe thats why I had a little trouble attaching? It was very firm though when it finally caught. I tried shifting it around to ensure that it lays flat and I couldn't shift it much.
The AC SSPTC's clips have 3 holes each. The socket on CUSL2 has 2 tabs on each side. No modding was required.
Socket 370 has 2 lugs on 2 sides (total 4 lugs).
The Socket 370 center lugs is always the same size as socket A lugs.
The outer lugs on socket 370 can be made wider. Perhaps 50% wider?
This can cause some problems if you want to connect a socket A cooler. If you run into problems you can either make the outer lugs more narrow or cut some in the HSF clip to make the hole in the clip slightly wider.
If you manage to get the cooler to attatch to the clips you should be fine.
Hi, silvervarg. Thanks for the explanation. That makes sense why the GC-68 will fit any Socket 7 without any problem (it only attaches to the center lugs).silvervarg wrote:The Socket 370 center lugs is always the same size as socket A lugs.
The outer lugs on socket 370 can be made wider. Perhaps 50% wider?
Not that I plan to build any other Socket 7 systems, but you never know when trivia knowledge comes in useful.
Are ALL Socket-370 setups the same? I'm looking to quiet a Celeron 433Mhz machine (picture here), but the core looks significantly larger (most importantly, taller) than the 466-Mhz Celeron 370 chip I quieted last year with a spare cheapo stock Socket-A heatsink.
Can I still use any Socket-A heatsink on this larger core?
Can I still use any Socket-A heatsink on this larger core?
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I have never heard of any significant difference in height of the die. Since it can vary a bit how tight the CPU pins are pressed into the socket I guess you have quite a lot of margin, so I would not worry about that.
A die area does vary quite a lot. In general AMD has smaller area than Intel for copmarable speed due to a different design.
If the area of the heatsink does not touch the entire die you will loose a bit of cooling ability, but as long as most of the die is covered I still think it will work okey.
A die area does vary quite a lot. In general AMD has smaller area than Intel for copmarable speed due to a different design.
If the area of the heatsink does not touch the entire die you will loose a bit of cooling ability, but as long as most of the die is covered I still think it will work okey.
I have multiple setups using AX-7's and SK-7's and both do great with an 80mm L1A at 5v. The SLK-800A works similarly but it won't fully cover the heatspreader on an FCPGA2 chip (although I'm not sure it matters that much). Finally, echoing Ralf Hutter, the GC-68 is a very effective, cheap solution, but you don't get the pleasure of Thermalright quality.
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If you want to save money, you can do what I did. I upgraded the heatsink/fan on my AMD 2400XP+ to the Zalman AlCu when I built my existing computer. My old computer, a P3 800 over clocked to 866, I removed the stock heatsink/fan and replaced it with the one that came with my AMD CPU. I had to remove the fan off the old heatsink to access the grabber clip and then exchange it in the AMD one. The original heatsink was crap and so was the thermal contact. The AMD one has a copper core and contact point (2.5 times the size of the Intel chip), is 2.5 times the size of the stock Intel heatsink, and I used my left over Arctive Silver 5 paste. In a room that has an ambient temp. of about 21C, the CPU is now running at 28C (still overclocked). Because the heatsink is more efficient for the little Intel CPU, the fan doesn't spin that fast and is relatively quiet. I thought I'd mention this since I know some shops have left over heatsink/fan units when they build more extreme machines for customers. See if you can get one for free if you buy something else from your local vendor (local vendor not meaning FutureShop or BestBuy, but little store). It doesn't hurt to ask, and it does a very decent job too.
picked up a tr2-m3 (by thermaltake)
Picked up a tr2-m3 (designed by thermaltake) at a microcenter the other day. its quieter, but not great. it advertises its 21dba, i dont have any frame of reference, but i would have expected quieter. (spins at ~2600rpm).
So the next idea i had was to try lowering the voltage to the fan on it. (or replace the fan).
zalman has their fanmate, but i see from the webpage: Do not use FAN MATE 1 with a fan having a start up voltage of more than 5V. Please check the start up voltage in the specifications of the fan.
The box for the heatsink lists 6V as the 'started voltage'.
I guess this means they arent compatible?
Any other suggestions would be helpful.
Turns out this tr2-m3 @ 80x80x75.5mm is pretty much the biggest that will fit on my motherboard. ram on one side, caps on the other 2 sides that almost made it not fit.
So the next idea i had was to try lowering the voltage to the fan on it. (or replace the fan).
zalman has their fanmate, but i see from the webpage: Do not use FAN MATE 1 with a fan having a start up voltage of more than 5V. Please check the start up voltage in the specifications of the fan.
The box for the heatsink lists 6V as the 'started voltage'.
I guess this means they arent compatible?
Any other suggestions would be helpful.
Turns out this tr2-m3 @ 80x80x75.5mm is pretty much the biggest that will fit on my motherboard. ram on one side, caps on the other 2 sides that almost made it not fit.
Re: picked up a tr2-m3 (by thermaltake)
I would think that the Fanmate wouldn't be a problem as long as you don't set it to the lowest voltage, and that Zalman is just covering its behindambientz wrote: zalman has their fanmate, but i see from the webpage: Do not use FAN MATE 1 with a fan having a start up voltage of more than 5V. Please check the start up voltage in the specifications of the fan.
The box for the heatsink lists 6V as the 'started voltage'.
I guess this means they arent compatible?
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Almost no fans are specified to start at 5V, but most of them still do.
The minimum voltage is usually specified ~2V higher than neccessary.
That way the fan manufacturer have loads of margin for small production irregularities etc.
A fan rated for 6V will defenatly work fine with a fanmate. You should ofcourse always check the fan starts reliably when you change your fan hardware settings.
The minimum voltage is usually specified ~2V higher than neccessary.
That way the fan manufacturer have loads of margin for small production irregularities etc.
A fan rated for 6V will defenatly work fine with a fanmate. You should ofcourse always check the fan starts reliably when you change your fan hardware settings.