NO LONGER Very dissapointed with the XP-90 !!
Moderators: NeilBlanchard, Ralf Hutter, sthayashi, Lawrence Lee
NO LONGER Very dissapointed with the XP-90 !!
I finally got around to installing the XP90. It went into my Thor rig to replace the Zalman 7000B-Cu there running with a very heavily undervolted fan.
I was looking forward to using my "preciousssssssss" Nexus 92mm without cutting it up and maybe putting on another 100 Mhz or so on the clock.
Right now, I'm VERY dissapointed with the results. With everything the way it was (same vcore, clock speed, etc) my CPU temps jumped 15C !!!!!
From the multitudes of installs, reinstalls and yet rereinstalls I made, I've come to the conclusion that the clips are just not applying enough pressure on the CPU.
When I took out the Zalman, all the excess TIM had already been squished aside. I've tried little TIM, lots of TIM, TIM spread, TIM left as glob per AS instructions, etc, every possible combination, (including no TIM !!! ) I could never get my temps down to Zalman levels. And every time I took the sink off, the TIM was there, not very spread out
Anybody have any ideas on how to properly adjust this thing? Don't advise RMA as the darn thing is pretty difficult to clip into place (inside the case) and a LOT harder to take out and in the multitudes of installs I managed to bend a few fins and left slight marks on the heatpipes - I doubt my retailer will accept it back now.
I was looking forward to using my "preciousssssssss" Nexus 92mm without cutting it up and maybe putting on another 100 Mhz or so on the clock.
Right now, I'm VERY dissapointed with the results. With everything the way it was (same vcore, clock speed, etc) my CPU temps jumped 15C !!!!!
From the multitudes of installs, reinstalls and yet rereinstalls I made, I've come to the conclusion that the clips are just not applying enough pressure on the CPU.
When I took out the Zalman, all the excess TIM had already been squished aside. I've tried little TIM, lots of TIM, TIM spread, TIM left as glob per AS instructions, etc, every possible combination, (including no TIM !!! ) I could never get my temps down to Zalman levels. And every time I took the sink off, the TIM was there, not very spread out
Anybody have any ideas on how to properly adjust this thing? Don't advise RMA as the darn thing is pretty difficult to clip into place (inside the case) and a LOT harder to take out and in the multitudes of installs I managed to bend a few fins and left slight marks on the heatpipes - I doubt my retailer will accept it back now.
Last edited by burcakb on Sun Mar 06, 2005 1:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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- Posts: 69
- Joined: Mon Nov 22, 2004 7:43 pm
- Location: Southern California
I think its more of a manufacturing issue than QC. The bases are machined perfectly flat initially, but the process of soldering on the heatpipes and nickel plating warps and tweaks the base. After they are finished, it would be near impossible to machine lap them again without costing us a lot more money in the end. In most cases the base isnt deformed enough to make a significant difference so they are OK with that, but there will be some that are bad enough to cause the problems you are seeing.
Ugh,
Yeah, the TR might be concave. It's usually the CPU that is and I had checked that mine wasn't. Never thought about the XP90 The bottom nickel plating is near-mirror though?
As for quality, I was slightly dissapointed. The retention bracket looks crude. The bracket that came with the Abit board is MUCH higher quality.
And be warned - installing/uninstalling this beast INSIDE your case is VERY hard.
Now, to find some nice way of lapping.... I'm open to suggestions. I don't have lapping kits sold here in Turkey and frankly importing one to fix an expensive cooler is just plain wrong.
Yeah, the TR might be concave. It's usually the CPU that is and I had checked that mine wasn't. Never thought about the XP90 The bottom nickel plating is near-mirror though?
As for quality, I was slightly dissapointed. The retention bracket looks crude. The bracket that came with the Abit board is MUCH higher quality.
And be warned - installing/uninstalling this beast INSIDE your case is VERY hard.
Now, to find some nice way of lapping.... I'm open to suggestions. I don't have lapping kits sold here in Turkey and frankly importing one to fix an expensive cooler is just plain wrong.
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- Location: Southern California
I bought a $10 3M wet sanding kit at my local auto parts store with paper from 250 to 800 grit. I also bought 2 sheets of 1500 for final polish. I got some glass from my local hardware store who had some scraps lying around for a couple bucks. Less than $20 total and works as well as any "lapping kit" you may find for sale online.
And just because the base is near mirror, doesnt mean its flat. The plating process alone has the possibility to warp the base. The plating can even vary in thickness across the base making an uneven surface.
And just because the base is near mirror, doesnt mean its flat. The plating process alone has the possibility to warp the base. The plating can even vary in thickness across the base making an uneven surface.
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I too have heard these warnings of the XP90/120 not being terribly flat.
While I haven't gotten around to installing mine yet, I did take the precaution of getting a lapping kit to give it a good going over with first.
If you're in the UK, Kustom PCs provide a couple of excellent options (scroll down) that come with complete instructions for even the most cautious of people
While I haven't gotten around to installing mine yet, I did take the precaution of getting a lapping kit to give it a good going over with first.
If you're in the UK, Kustom PCs provide a couple of excellent options (scroll down) that come with complete instructions for even the most cautious of people
even if the base is pretty flat and temps are good, taking off the nickel can give you a little temp drop - 1 or 2C. That was my experience.
just as a side comment: there are those who will point out that you can't make a base as flat by hand as you can by machine. In fact, after I lapped mine, I checked it against a straightedge and it seemed to be convex by a small fraction of a millimeter at the edges.
but
a) better convex than concave (for contact in center)
b) that degree of convexity means maybe 0.01 mm gap at the edges of the core area which is apparently trivial enough to harm my temps very little.
just as a side comment: there are those who will point out that you can't make a base as flat by hand as you can by machine. In fact, after I lapped mine, I checked it against a straightedge and it seemed to be convex by a small fraction of a millimeter at the edges.
but
a) better convex than concave (for contact in center)
b) that degree of convexity means maybe 0.01 mm gap at the edges of the core area which is apparently trivial enough to harm my temps very little.
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When I modified an old slot Pentium heatsink (those black heatsinks from years back) for use as South Bridge cooler, it was enough for me to "Kiss Grind" the surface down. I dunno how accurate Kiss Grinding is compared to lapping. The grinder has accuracy to 0.003". Is this something that you might be able to try, or is .003" not good enough for your purposes? This was done in a machine shop. Im not sure what the machine was called. Its as big as a small milling machine and has a suspended spinning grind wheel that is changeable (to different coarseness). The controls are similar to a milling machine in that you move around the vice on x and y coordinates.
I suppose I owe an apology to Thermalright.
It seems removing the CPU from the socket messes up the CPU sensor diode on my motherboard. The mobo had an initial temp reading problem that was later solved by a BIOS update. But I never thought removing the CPU from the socket would render it FUBAR.
I had the XP-90 on, despite temps in the 68C level under load which I knew to be incorrect. The heatsink was getting very hot with the fan turned off, heatpipes were working and a fan calibration reported +22C overreporting. However, at 68C, uGuru wanted to beep loudly, turn the CPU fan faster and all that sort of noisy things. I kept disabling them but was still very uncomfortable.
A few days ago, Abit released another BIOS and voila!!! Temps are down to 42C level, I even told the Radeon to pay a visit to hell and overclocked all the way to 2400 GHz without breaking 50C (calibrated). The thermalright is definitely a winner !!!
A big sorry to Thermalright and a big BOO to abit
It seems removing the CPU from the socket messes up the CPU sensor diode on my motherboard. The mobo had an initial temp reading problem that was later solved by a BIOS update. But I never thought removing the CPU from the socket would render it FUBAR.
I had the XP-90 on, despite temps in the 68C level under load which I knew to be incorrect. The heatsink was getting very hot with the fan turned off, heatpipes were working and a fan calibration reported +22C overreporting. However, at 68C, uGuru wanted to beep loudly, turn the CPU fan faster and all that sort of noisy things. I kept disabling them but was still very uncomfortable.
A few days ago, Abit released another BIOS and voila!!! Temps are down to 42C level, I even told the Radeon to pay a visit to hell and overclocked all the way to 2400 GHz without breaking 50C (calibrated). The thermalright is definitely a winner !!!
A big sorry to Thermalright and a big BOO to abit
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