Will 2 year old Arctic Silver 5 (never opened) be ok?
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Will 2 year old Arctic Silver 5 (never opened) be ok?
I've just got a Scythe Samurai Z, and will be using it on an AM2 3800+ single core... (replacing the stock heatsink). I assume even old AS5 will probably be better than the supplied generic grease?
Also, is there any good technique for removing the stock heatsink.... please note that I am performing a motherboard swap as the old one has died, so I can't heat the CPU up to make it easier to remove... :/
Thanks for any help!
Also, is there any good technique for removing the stock heatsink.... please note that I am performing a motherboard swap as the old one has died, so I can't heat the CPU up to make it easier to remove... :/
Thanks for any help!
Re: Will 2 year old Arctic Silver 5 (never opened) be ok?
You could use hairdryer to warm up heatsink. Do not "rock" it sideways when you are removing it. Try turning it in smal circles, back and forth until it comes off.=assassin= wrote:I've just got a Scythe Samurai Z, and will be using it on an AM2 3800+ single core... (replacing the stock heatsink). I assume even old AS5 will probably be better than the supplied generic grease?
Also, is there any good technique for removing the stock heatsink.... please note that I am performing a motherboard swap as the old one has died, so I can't heat the CPU up to make it easier to remove... :/
Thanks for any help!
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Thanks for the help guys!
I did it side to side very gently and eventually it just slid away, came away easier than I thought it the end, so thanks! I was in my conservatory and left it in there for a while to get warm. I was about to try the hairdryer, but gave it one last attempt and it came away alright.
Also I put a small amount, maybe a bit more than a grain of rice (possibly 2) of the AS5 on the CPU, it appears to have squashed out a little bit on one side, but there is the tiniest of gaps on the other. I'll be leaving it overnight, so hopefully the pressure will close it up - the heatsink is on pretty tight though, and as far as I can get it, and via testing on paper, I know it will have at least covered the center, which I assume is the main bit to worry about.
The base of the scythe wasn't perfect, as the protective sticker had left an outline of the warning label, it also seemed a little "dirty" so I gave it a little bit of a polish in the center with the cloth I used to clean the CPU.
The Scythe Samurai Z is very easy to install, and look easy to remove as well, so hopefully when I fire it up, if it is a little too hot, it'll be easy to correct it.
I also assume the AS5 will take a few heat cycles to "bed in" anyway, so it might be a bit warmer at first?
I did it side to side very gently and eventually it just slid away, came away easier than I thought it the end, so thanks! I was in my conservatory and left it in there for a while to get warm. I was about to try the hairdryer, but gave it one last attempt and it came away alright.
Also I put a small amount, maybe a bit more than a grain of rice (possibly 2) of the AS5 on the CPU, it appears to have squashed out a little bit on one side, but there is the tiniest of gaps on the other. I'll be leaving it overnight, so hopefully the pressure will close it up - the heatsink is on pretty tight though, and as far as I can get it, and via testing on paper, I know it will have at least covered the center, which I assume is the main bit to worry about.
The base of the scythe wasn't perfect, as the protective sticker had left an outline of the warning label, it also seemed a little "dirty" so I gave it a little bit of a polish in the center with the cloth I used to clean the CPU.
The Scythe Samurai Z is very easy to install, and look easy to remove as well, so hopefully when I fire it up, if it is a little too hot, it'll be easy to correct it.
I also assume the AS5 will take a few heat cycles to "bed in" anyway, so it might be a bit warmer at first?
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If I remember right, it's 200 hours until AS5 settles in.
And as I've been able to use my original Arctic Silver tube since my 1.0 GHz Thunderbird, I think your 5 will work just fine too.
Edit: removed double-smileys.
And as I've been able to use my original Arctic Silver tube since my 1.0 GHz Thunderbird, I think your 5 will work just fine too.
Edit: removed double-smileys.
Last edited by Das_Saunamies on Mon Jun 25, 2007 7:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Cheers!
Slightly off topic... but I have the board altogether now apart from one thing, the front panel connectors, as I'm not sure which wires are positive. There are:
HDD LED - Red/White
Speaker - Black/Red
Reset - Purple/White
Power - Black/Red
Power LED - Blue/White
I just need to know which of each is +/positive.
Thanks in advance.
Slightly off topic... but I have the board altogether now apart from one thing, the front panel connectors, as I'm not sure which wires are positive. There are:
HDD LED - Red/White
Speaker - Black/Red
Reset - Purple/White
Power - Black/Red
Power LED - Blue/White
I just need to know which of each is +/positive.
Thanks in advance.
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Hehe, I always thought it could cause something to short and damage everything.
Anyway, thanks again, I started the system up, and it booted and all the right lights came on. As it was a replacement for another motherboard as my PC was crashing/failing to boot, I'm hoping this motherboard replacement finally solves it all! I won't get too excited yet though....
Anyway, thanks again, I started the system up, and it booted and all the right lights came on. As it was a replacement for another motherboard as my PC was crashing/failing to boot, I'm hoping this motherboard replacement finally solves it all! I won't get too excited yet though....
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I worried about that for a long time, too. But then I realized that you're just closing a loop, so the ends are interchangeable. With an LED, you have a device in that loop, and the device needs a particular direction of current to work. It's all so simple once you think of it!=assassin= wrote:Hehe, I always thought it could cause something to short and damage everything.