hey, looking for a quit solution to a Q6600 processor in a antec p182 case
i will replace the noisy fans in the case with Scythe S-FLEX 120mm Fan SFF21D running with 800rpm in both top and backside
will i be able to run fully stable without fans on a fansink.. or what to recomend...
thx for a great forum
Thermalright Ultra-120 eXtreme or Thermalright IFX-14 or ???
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thejamppa
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Consider also Thermalright SI-128 SE. I think IFX-14 has superior performance over Ultra-120 due larger heatpipes. But its so outrageously expensive. If money is no problem, then IFX-14 might be solution for you. It seems to be extremely effective. But its not really tested in SPCR or not much forum members have it.
Ultra-120 eXtreme however is several times verified to be very, very good and quiet cooler.
Ultra-120 eXtreme however is several times verified to be very, very good and quiet cooler.
can buy it from a cheap german shop, that are willing to ship it very cheap.
the IFX-14 seems to have some errors.... the first is that the backside cooler i only changing a single degree centius....
anyway.... are some able to find a test with IFX-14 with passive tests on high-end cpu?
money is not the problem
but it needs to fit into p182 case with closed door, and be able to handle the job...
if ultra 120 extreme is just as good with more heatpipes, i prefer it.. but if IFX shows good, i migth get it and post my findings in the forum
the IFX-14 seems to have some errors.... the first is that the backside cooler i only changing a single degree centius....
anyway.... are some able to find a test with IFX-14 with passive tests on high-end cpu?
money is not the problem
but it needs to fit into p182 case with closed door, and be able to handle the job...
if ultra 120 extreme is just as good with more heatpipes, i prefer it.. but if IFX shows good, i migth get it and post my findings in the forum
I just got the Ultra 120 Extreme.
I got surprised about the outstanding quality feeling it gave me. I certainly recommend Termalright products.
The spring screws are heavy and shiny (yeah, really cool
).
The only "bad" thing (exaggerating
) is the baseplate where you can see the "machining traces" quite easily.
I got surprised about the outstanding quality feeling it gave me. I certainly recommend Termalright products.
The spring screws are heavy and shiny (yeah, really cool
).The only "bad" thing (exaggerating
) is the baseplate where you can see the "machining traces" quite easily.I've also been very happy with the Ultra-120 Extreme used with Q6600 @ 3GHz in a P182. Both the CPU fan and the exhaust fan are inaudible at 600-700RPM (Scythe & Nexus) and the temperatures are fine.
The Ultra-120 Extreme build quality is great and the mounting system is really solid. Combined with great cooling at low-enough RPM's I can't think of a reason to get some other cooler if price is not an issue.
The Ultra-120 Extreme build quality is great and the mounting system is really solid. Combined with great cooling at low-enough RPM's I can't think of a reason to get some other cooler if price is not an issue.
now i come in doubt....
perhaps i shall try out a 800-600rpm cooler with the 120-extreme instead, and then let is blow south-north direction with a cooler mount on the southside... since the case is a p182.
then have a passive hr-03 plus on the gf8800gtx, fasing up
would it be a strong setup... or would a proberly installed scytche ninja be better here?!?!?
perhaps i shall try out a 800-600rpm cooler with the 120-extreme instead, and then let is blow south-north direction with a cooler mount on the southside... since the case is a p182.
then have a passive hr-03 plus on the gf8800gtx, fasing up
would it be a strong setup... or would a proberly installed scytche ninja be better here?!?!?
This thread is what you need:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/sho ... a&t=152773
basically at ~800rpm or greater, the thermalright ultra extreme will beat a scythe infinity, which has similar cooling to a ninja.
If the ninja is beating the Thermalright, it is going to likely be at 600 rpm or less.
and with a Q6600, you will want to run at least 800 rpm unless you underclock/undervolt.
In other words, get the thermalright ultra extreme.
I recently got the ultra extreme to replace my zalman 7700cu and I am beating my old temps by 3-5 C idle and ~15C load, all at lower fan speeds too!
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/sho ... a&t=152773
basically at ~800rpm or greater, the thermalright ultra extreme will beat a scythe infinity, which has similar cooling to a ninja.
If the ninja is beating the Thermalright, it is going to likely be at 600 rpm or less.
and with a Q6600, you will want to run at least 800 rpm unless you underclock/undervolt.
In other words, get the thermalright ultra extreme.
I recently got the ultra extreme to replace my zalman 7700cu and I am beating my old temps by 3-5 C idle and ~15C load, all at lower fan speeds too!
This is not really true. In my setup I have the overclocked Q6600@3GHz with a Scythe@600RPM with idle temperature of about 40C and all cores loaded temp around 60C. I don't see any reason to increase RPM or spend time adjusting voltages as I find the temperatures perfectly acceptable as they are.jubrany wrote:This thread is what you need:
and with a Q6600, you will want to run at least 800 rpm unless you underclock/undervolt.
The IFX-14 is, by all accounts, not superior in any way to the Ultra-120 Extreme. I had the same mobo and proc with a Scythe Ninja, an Ultra-120, and and Ultra-120 Extreme. The TRUE gave by far the best results, then the Ultra-120, then the Ninja. This may be partly due to the mounting.
I was further able to improve the situation by lapping the HS and proc - contrary to what has been said about "bowing" heatsinks, a fully lapped and mirrored HS and proc has yielded the best results, another 4-5C better than an unlapped sink.
The TRUE is expensive, though. Expect to pay $70 US. The ability to run in a P182 with the door closed IMHO has little to do with the HS you choose - it has to do more with the video card you're using. With an 8800GTX dumping a lot of heat into my case, I found that I had to remove the fan intake grill, (I cut out the metal, too, though that might not have been necessary) and install a Kama Bay in the top three drive bays to get good numbers. This made more difference than leaving the door open, but even with the door open the rig is pretty quiet.
I was further able to improve the situation by lapping the HS and proc - contrary to what has been said about "bowing" heatsinks, a fully lapped and mirrored HS and proc has yielded the best results, another 4-5C better than an unlapped sink.
The TRUE is expensive, though. Expect to pay $70 US. The ability to run in a P182 with the door closed IMHO has little to do with the HS you choose - it has to do more with the video card you're using. With an 8800GTX dumping a lot of heat into my case, I found that I had to remove the fan intake grill, (I cut out the metal, too, though that might not have been necessary) and install a Kama Bay in the top three drive bays to get good numbers. This made more difference than leaving the door open, but even with the door open the rig is pretty quiet.
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Sizzle
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I have my Ultra Extreme for sale in the Deals section. While it's certainly a good cooler, I did not care for the mounting on the socket 775, it allows for the HS to wiggle. Thermalright says it is withing the Intel pressure spec on their webiste, but I wanted something more solid. I am using a regular Ultra 120 now and am happy with the fit.
I don't know of anybody who hasn't heard about the penny trick with that 775 mounting. I just assumed everybody used it. It knocks as much as 10C off your temps.Sizzle wrote:I have my Ultra Extreme for sale in the Deals section. While it's certainly a good cooler, I did not care for the mounting on the socket 775, it allows for the HS to wiggle. Thermalright says it is withing the Intel pressure spec on their webiste, but I wanted something more solid. I am using a regular Ultra 120 now and am happy with the fit.
Yes my Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme was easy to turn when I first mounted it with too much of Thermalright paste (white).
When i mounted it again with Arctic Silver 5 according to their instructions (=not too much paste) i couldn't turn it at all any more.
No need for a penny mod unless maybe if you are an extreme overclocker or something.
When i mounted it again with Arctic Silver 5 according to their instructions (=not too much paste) i couldn't turn it at all any more.
No need for a penny mod unless maybe if you are an extreme overclocker or something.
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Sizzle
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Still could move it. I ended up just using the mounting from a non extreme. Just bent the leg then straightened it out after it was in.Airshark wrote:I don't know of anybody who hasn't heard about the penny trick with that 775 mounting. I just assumed everybody used it. It knocks as much as 10C off your temps.Sizzle wrote:I have my Ultra Extreme for sale in the Deals section. While it's certainly a good cooler, I did not care for the mounting on the socket 775, it allows for the HS to wiggle. Thermalright says it is withing the Intel pressure spec on their webiste, but I wanted something more solid. I am using a regular Ultra 120 now and am happy with the fit.
jubrany: "This thread is what you need:
and with a Q6600, you will want to run at least 800 rpm unless you underclock/undervolt."
mellon: "This is not really true. In my setup I have the overclocked Q6600@3GHz with a Scythe@600RPM with idle temperature of about 40C and all cores loaded temp around 60C. I don't see any reason to increase RPM or spend time adjusting voltages as I find the temperatures perfectly acceptable as they are."
I agree with mellon. jubrany's claim is a bit exagerated. I can run my Q6600 G0 undervolted (but without any reduction to stock clock) with 0 rpm on Noctua cooler and stay within 55 deg C running Prime95. And I do mean real temperatures which are 15 degrees higher than reported by SpeedFan unless you configure offset in SF Configure -> Advanced options menu. See Core Temp for real temperature and then calibrate SpeedFan to match it and then the readings should be OK. (Give or take 5 deg C at most.)
Or alternatively run at ~45 deg C under load with just 30...40% PWM set in SF.
Running at 1080rpm, I can stay within 60 deg C with 3.2GHz clock. Still far from noisy it is audible but if I reduced PWM maximum PWM ratio SF uses on CPU cooler to around 70%, it'd disappear due to other fans in the system (fans I cant just eliminate from the system, like Corsair PSU's fan). With Noctua or Ninja, which both have wide spacing between fins, amount of airflow doesn't much matter above certain level so I'd expect only a few deg C rise above 60. (Again, I'm talking about 3.2GHz clock on Quad that runs 2.4GHz at stock.)
I consider U120E an overclocker's cooler. Whether it's beneficial at 3.2GHz may depend on how much case airflow there is. I have good case airflow due to Centurion case. At a more restricted case with higher case temperature U120E might be necessary at even such "low" overclocks. At higher overclocks than 3.2GHz, I'd pretty certainly recommend U120E for the system but at SV/SC, UV/SC, SV/OC and UV/OC systems, I think low-airflow heatsinks such as Scythe Ninja, Noctua NH-U12F, Thermalright HR-series are better. If it's OV/OC, then it depends on the amount of overvoltage and overclock. I consider mine still properly cooled and quiet but I admit I'm right there on the point where U120E would fare at least as good. But the thing is: I do sometimes run at lower clock as well. When I do that, U120E would be definite overkill.
For the record, my Noctua is lapped. I'm not sure if lapping made any difference as I changed my PSU at the same time and that affected system airflow (reduced it since PSU fan didn't ramp up to high rpm). CPU is non-lapped and slightly concave. Noctua HS was also slightly concave and appeard like lapping didn't help. It's the first time I tried lapping after all... At least I got rid of the ridged texture "designed for high-viscousity paste" and the traces of oxidation from the bubbles under protective tape (dark dots on HS interface). I will lap HS again to try get rid of residual concave shape when I lap my CPU IHS too. But I don't intend to do it until next summer or the summer after that. CPU is still under warranty (they can't tell whether I've overclocked it).
edit: concave, not convex
and with a Q6600, you will want to run at least 800 rpm unless you underclock/undervolt."
mellon: "This is not really true. In my setup I have the overclocked Q6600@3GHz with a Scythe@600RPM with idle temperature of about 40C and all cores loaded temp around 60C. I don't see any reason to increase RPM or spend time adjusting voltages as I find the temperatures perfectly acceptable as they are."
I agree with mellon. jubrany's claim is a bit exagerated. I can run my Q6600 G0 undervolted (but without any reduction to stock clock) with 0 rpm on Noctua cooler and stay within 55 deg C running Prime95. And I do mean real temperatures which are 15 degrees higher than reported by SpeedFan unless you configure offset in SF Configure -> Advanced options menu. See Core Temp for real temperature and then calibrate SpeedFan to match it and then the readings should be OK. (Give or take 5 deg C at most.)
Or alternatively run at ~45 deg C under load with just 30...40% PWM set in SF.
Running at 1080rpm, I can stay within 60 deg C with 3.2GHz clock. Still far from noisy it is audible but if I reduced PWM maximum PWM ratio SF uses on CPU cooler to around 70%, it'd disappear due to other fans in the system (fans I cant just eliminate from the system, like Corsair PSU's fan). With Noctua or Ninja, which both have wide spacing between fins, amount of airflow doesn't much matter above certain level so I'd expect only a few deg C rise above 60. (Again, I'm talking about 3.2GHz clock on Quad that runs 2.4GHz at stock.)
I consider U120E an overclocker's cooler. Whether it's beneficial at 3.2GHz may depend on how much case airflow there is. I have good case airflow due to Centurion case. At a more restricted case with higher case temperature U120E might be necessary at even such "low" overclocks. At higher overclocks than 3.2GHz, I'd pretty certainly recommend U120E for the system but at SV/SC, UV/SC, SV/OC and UV/OC systems, I think low-airflow heatsinks such as Scythe Ninja, Noctua NH-U12F, Thermalright HR-series are better. If it's OV/OC, then it depends on the amount of overvoltage and overclock. I consider mine still properly cooled and quiet but I admit I'm right there on the point where U120E would fare at least as good. But the thing is: I do sometimes run at lower clock as well. When I do that, U120E would be definite overkill.
For the record, my Noctua is lapped. I'm not sure if lapping made any difference as I changed my PSU at the same time and that affected system airflow (reduced it since PSU fan didn't ramp up to high rpm). CPU is non-lapped and slightly concave. Noctua HS was also slightly concave and appeard like lapping didn't help. It's the first time I tried lapping after all... At least I got rid of the ridged texture "designed for high-viscousity paste" and the traces of oxidation from the bubbles under protective tape (dark dots on HS interface). I will lap HS again to try get rid of residual concave shape when I lap my CPU IHS too. But I don't intend to do it until next summer or the summer after that. CPU is still under warranty (they can't tell whether I've overclocked it).
edit: concave, not convex